Xbox 360 Kinect 3d Scanner | Xbox 360 Kinect 3d Scanning

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Xbox 360 Kinect 3d Scanning


In this video, I’m going to be going over 3d scanning using Scanic and an Xbox 360 connect. The first thing you’ll need. Besides, an Xbox 360 connect will be the Scanic software. So if you just Google Scan act go to their website, they have different scanners. They offer, but they do work with the, uh, the Xbox 360 connect now their software they do claim to offer a free version, which is a great baseline. You install it and you test to make sure everything works. The issue is, it doesn’t really let you export the file. It claims it’ll let you export it a little bit. But it’s such a small resolution that is not really worth anything, but you can definitely use that to test it out and see how well it’ll work for you before buying software, but then once you buy the software you can export and it’ll all work great. The next thing I would highly recommend would be a remote desktop software. I really like type bnc. It works great. If you’re on a local network, you just download the application for the windows PC and either the accompanying ios or Android app just download the latest version. The Android app does cost money, but it has the best interface I’ve seen for how to use and control your windows computer. While on your phone same with the Apple app, I would also recommend getting a handle for your Xbox 360 connect. It makes a huge difference and having it. Hold the phone, right where you want it. There makes it really easy to know what angles you’re getting and see how you’re scanning. I would highly recommend it. You can find my file on thingiverse. The next thing you’ll need is The Xbox 360 connect to PC adapter, which has the Xbox 360 part and then the plug-in to the Wall Part And the part that you plug into your laptop, which is the USB so here just plugging in the Xbox 360 Connect. And then just plugging it into your computer now. This software will work on any hardware. I’ve tried it on, but it definitely uses all the resources it can get and works a lot better on fast hardware. The other thing I’m using, but you don’t need is a turntable. I’ve made myself a drill powered turntable which works great, though you can also just walk around the subject, but that’s a little bit more work, and you have to deal with chords, Whereas this method of just having a drill turning, it works quite good here. Now I’m just going to start the scan on my phone, which is actually starting it on the computer so to start the scan. First you want to make sure you’re on body. You want to make it 2x height because a person is taller than they are wide. You want to make sure you make the bounding box large enough to encompass the person, but not so large that it catches walls and things. And then you can start and when you start the scan, you need to make sure the scanner is at the midway point halfway between the top and bottom, so you don’t lose the top or bottom because it’ll only scan what’s in the box and it starts the camera at the halfway point. Now here it is started. You just hold yourself very still as it spins around. The green is what it is seeing and the red is what it isn’t seeing. It’s also a great idea to find a pose that a person can hold steady for a long period of time. I highly recommend having fingers held up against the side because it also small appendages like a finger can be hard to scan If they’re just floating around or wiggling. So it’s nice if they’re just tucked tightly into the side that keeps them from moving now. When you start the scan, it always has to start in the center or you will lose the top or bottom. So you want to make sure you start in the very center and then I like to tip it up a little bit and slowly move up once I’ve done a full rotation so as not to lose tracking and then once I’ve done another full rotation at that height, then I will continue to move up and then once I’ve got the top, I’ll try and make sure to tip it down to now get the downward angles because you want to make sure to get the underside and then the over top side, and then you move down slowly making sure not to lose tracking again and catch underneath where you would scan the first time and just do the next section, and then I also like to do another full rotation on the feet as well as I like to do a full rotation on the face. Just to make sure you get those details in well and once I’ve done that you tip up and you try and get the undersides of everything, making sure to get the undersides of the hair and the chin and any other spot that might just be a shadow because any holes in the model that it won’t see will end up. It’ll hollow out the model and add an inside to it, which can be a real pain to get rid of so here. I’m just doing another scan to get the underside of the chin and the face and then I like to redo the head because that’s my weakest spot. I like to miss it. Sometimes, so here’s the scan in progress and depending on your PC hardware, the FPS will go up or down. It does seem to hold solid at 30 No matter how good the hardware is, but it will definitely drop down lower, depending on what performance you’re using. Now In this case, I didn’t have the bounding box quite far enough down, and so I missed the bottom of the feet, but because the rest of the scan turned out so good and the feet are really easy to replace afterwards, that wasn’t a huge deal, but depending on what your outcome is, you might want to then start over when you notice that you’re missing either the top or the bottom or an arm or whatever is missing and make sure you start your scan with the person in the center of the bounding box and not off to a side or something now processing takes a long time now here, I’m just going to scan some shoes to also I’m doing a body making it smaller. This one! I don’t need 2x height. I’m going to scan these shoes And then I’ll put them onto the model. Afterwards in blender going to start the scan now for this. You want to make sure when you’re starting here that you’ve got green means it’s right, Red is too close. Blue is getting kind of far. And once you’re in the right spot, you just start your scan and you will also notice that. I put socks into the shoes to try and make there be as little holes as possible because obviously a hollow shoe, it can’t see inside of it, so I did that, and then I’m just very slowly moving down, trying to get all the sides, and I got the top first, and I’m just moving around. It doesn’t really matter how you go about it, just as long as you keep a very slow steady motion and try to get all the edges and the green is yeah, just what it is seeing and what it understands and the red is what it is confused about, or not really comprehending, and if you do see up on the top sides, there’s a little bit of extra things that are floating around as long as they’re not right in your way. That is totally fine because you can get them removed later. Just processing it now. Reconstruct is really doesn’t work. Well, mostly what you’ll be doing is working here in processing, so there is the scan directly as it comes out. Now it has all these sections over here, simplify, fill holes, move and crop rotate, remove parts. And then you could colorize, and you can use all those if you need manually, but you can also just use watertight, which kind of does all of them all at once. It’s just one kind of click, though you would still want to do the move and crop to ground at the end, and as you can see, it is using all the performance I can throw at it, which is fine but definitely moves faster with a more powerful PC and there you can see. It just removed all the extra parts, and now it has textured it and then it’s done, but even after it has finished processing even just the fact that the program has a model in it and it’s running. It still seems to take all the performance. It can get off of my CPU. It was removing parts. You just select what percentage of size you want to remove and then with the crop to ground. You just want to make sure you have your item level. To the blue surface, everything below the blue will be destroyed and it will just cut it flat, which is amazingly useful as you can see. I didn’t quite get low enough on the shoes to get underneath the front of them, so it kind of hollowed them out doing exactly what I said, so I’m just going to reset here because I think I’m going to want to tweak that a little bit seeing as it is quite a mess so first, I’m just going to decide what I want to do for leveling it and placing it just adjusting the different sliders till you get it where you want it. I typically like to do this both at the beginning, and then at the end if I have done the filling holes or water tightening just to make sure that it catches all the spots. And then I like to at the very end. Chop off the bottom Because as you saw when I water tightened it, the bottom is all bubbly, so then I like to crop it to ground once more and there I am removed all the extra parts, and those are the shoes. Now it is also very useful to have the texture on the shoes for later when you are re-adding any missing detail in blender. Now I’m just going to add the color you can set. How detailed you want the color to be and then just hit run? Once it’s finished processing, it will put the color on the shoes And now I didn’t do water tight and fill in the bottom. Because for this model, I found that it really seemed to help in blender, not having it try and fill in and make it watertight because of all the floating pieces inside because the shoe toes were open so now for exporting, you want to set it to obj and you want a UV texture? It’s going to complain, but that is okay. You can take the extra time for the render or export, and then just set how many faces you want, so you can set it to the maximum or less, depending on how hard it is for your computer to work on. And how much detail you want in it. There is a point of diminishing returns. Once you’ve picked that you can just decide where you want to save your file and then just export it, and it will take a while longer or shorter, depending on what detail levels you wanted and there we have exported it, and now we can load it into blender, but I will save that for the next video where we take it into blender and clean up the model and prepare it for 3d printing. I hope to see you there. Thanks for watching.

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