Using Blender For 3d Printing | How To Blender To 3d Printer – The Basics | Tutorial | Blender For 3d Printing

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How To Blender To 3d Printer - The Basics | Tutorial | Blender For 3d Printing


From blender to 3d printed what’s up, I’m Jonathan and welcome to make tales where I’m sharing my maker journey to help you go further in yours, so don’t forget to subscribe and hit that little bell icon to never miss an opportunity to keep making this video is all about showing you a short workflow of how to import something into blender do a minor modification to it and then export it out for 3d printer, so the 3d model that I’ll be modifying. Is devin’s little tough hook here? Go check him out at make anything. His channel is amazing. So once you find a file that you like, go ahead and download it. This can be an STL or an obj, and then from there, we’re going to go and work with it within blender. So here in blender We’re going to go ahead and import our object that we just downloaded, so this is going to file import and here. If you have an obj, you’re going to click this OBJ file, and if you have an STL, click the STL. So I have an STL here, so I’ll be clicking STL going to where I have this file and importing it in so once imported. You can see that we have our little 3d model here. Now the edit I need to do is. I have a custom pegboard that I’ve laser cut and my holes are exactly 25 millimeters away from each other, so I need to bring these closer to each other, and on top of that, I would like to put a little offset of the size on these pegs that go in because my 3d printer makes these 0.2 millimeters too big on top of that. This is set for a four millimeter pegboard and my pegboard is only three millimeters thick, so let’s go and do all those changes just before we get into it. If you don’t know blender that well, I do have an entire blender. Precision course here on my channel. So go check that out. If you feel like you need to understand blender precision workflows a little better with that said, let’s go ahead and do my little changes so to start off with as you can tell if we go into edit mode. The geometry is quite busy now. This is probably going to happen with a lot of models. I’m just going to quickly delete this cube here and the way that I find that for a good Eighty percent or seventy percent of models just select all the edges hit X, go limited, dissolve And what I have it set here too. Is five is far too much. If I go down to 0 here and then you’ll see if I just go up once that’s almost all I need, so I’ve got 0.1 done and that there is basically what I’m needing. So that’s that sorted with, so let’s give this a rotation on the X of 90 and lets. Start my small edit. So I first need to shorten down what I’ve got going on here. All I’ve done. There is gone into X-ray mode to go circle select to then be able to just select the entire top half of these here with those selected. I can now go G constrain it on the Y and go minus one. So this is now set for my three millimeter thick pegboard, right next up from there. I know that these are 0.2 millimeters too far that way and too far that way for my pegboard. But I want to show you how. I got to that so to show you how. I got to that I’m going to just quickly Create a plane and I’m going to set this plane to 25 millimeters. The reason why it’s this 25 is my whole centers for my pegboard because they’re custom made is 25 millimeters exactly, so I’m going to use CAD transforms here. I’m gonna go G edge centers from this edge center to that edge center and the reason why I’ve done this is because if I move this now on the Z downwards, I can use this as a reference object for the move that I want to do, so I’m going to select both of these go into edit mode, go into top view. Go into my circle selection deselect! Everything that I don’t want. So let’s just do that right now. So deselect it all. I don’t need this one. I don’t need that, but what I do need is. I would like to select the rest of this little peg joint here, so let’s select all of that there fantastic. And now with that selected, I can go back into my top view, and I can use my favorite add-on cad transforms, and I can go g with the vertex from here constrained on the X. Move it to that point there, and as you see, there’s the 0.2 millimeters. So the next one we don’t need this one to do, so let’s go ahead and do the last layer. Actually, there’s no, there’s one more little layer that we need to do, so let’s deselect everything circle select, select all of this here and select that over there too fantastic. Now I’m just going to go G from here on the X by 0.2 Fantastic and that there apart from one last little edit that I would like to do. Is it so let’s go and do the last edit, which is as perfectly fitting as these are. My holes seem to just be a little bit. Too big or my 3d printer is making this nub just a little bit too big and too hard to go in, so I just want to go ahead and circle select this here as well as the same here, and I’m wanting to just shrink this in by 0.1 of a millimeter to do this. I’ll be using card transforms once again and I’ll be using the scale operation and so let’s go ahead, hit S for scale. I’m going to go from the vertex lock that on the Z constrain my next movement to the X So that it’s perpendicular with this point here. Now I’m not going to move my mouse. After I click, so then I can go minus 0.1 millimeters and that there is the edit that I’m wanting to do, so let’s go and do the same on this other side. So X-ray circle select make sure that nothing is selected before we go into circle, select, fantastic circle select. Let’s select everything that we’re wanting here, so all of that there, all of this across here and all of that there down here and across here. Double check that that is what I’m wanting. It is all right, so let’s go and do that. Once again! Scale from this vertex. Don’t move my mouse shift Z on the X. Move this to here, click. Don’t move my mouse Z minus 0.1 millimeters and there we go That is the edit completed so with that there, I’m ready to go ahead and 3d print this for those of you who haven’t done the precision course you might not have the 3d print tool, so go ahead for that. You go into the edit preferences and what you’re going to go ahead And look inside of Add-on’s is type in 3d and there. It is 3d print toolbox now. The reason why we’re getting 3d print to 3d print toolbox is because it’s a great little checker so here we’re going to go ahead and check all. And, as you see, we’re pretty much fine there. We have some thin faces and let’s just go ahead, Go into face, select, select everything and then go into the thin face, so it says that this here are thin faces now in all honesty. I don’t think that’s going to be too much of a problem here. If we distort this, it’s going to give us no problem. Make it manifold and lets. Check everything once again. I don’t think that’s going to be a problem, but we have to keep an eye out when we turn and put this into our slicer. Let’s see if these faces give us a problem so with that there, that’s how to go about and easily edit something now. The other reason why I use the 3d print toolbox is because it has a great STL export function so here in export. All you have to do is select your object. Say where you’re wanting to go. So desktop accept is going to be using this name here as well as the name of your file, and then if you’ve been working outside of the edit mode, make sure you apply the scale as well because it can give you some problems if you don’t so then we’re going to hit export and it’s as easy as that the STL has been exported. Let’s go and bring this into our slicer and see what we get. So I personally currently still use simplify 3d just because I haven’t gone and plopped the settings into Cura slicer Because I really think I’m going to prefer a cura slicer in the future, but for now I’m here in simplify 3d so here we have our objects there, and as you can see, it seems to be all perfectly fine, so let’s go and now let’s just quickly. Check our print procedure here, and as you can see, it looks like it has come out beautifully now. One other thing I want to show you is that you don’t always have to export this out as an STL. You could always have it as an obj or a different file that you prefer now. If you’re wanting to Obj, you can use the file format export here, or you can also just select your object, go file, export and wave format OBJ with that done. You select where you’re wanting it to go, and then from there, you can go ahead and drag that file into your slicer, As well as most slicers also support OBJS and that there is the absolute basic fundamentals of how to go about importing a file into blender how to simplify it in the very simplest of ways and how to do some very basic manipulation to the model. No remixing yet, but that video will be coming out in the future, a huge. Thank you to my patrons. You guys are absolutely awesome. And if you think I’m worthy of your support, I would love to see you there too, don’t. Forget that if you want to know how to go ahead and design these. I have a video for them right there. Thank you for watching. Keep making and let the quest continue.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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