Tronxy Xy-2 3d Printer | Tronxy Xy-2 3d Printer Review

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Tronxy Xy-2 3d Printer Review


Ah, Trunk Z or Tron X Y the company whose name we don’t quite know how to pronounce, has been a long favorite of mine in the budget 3d printed game. They were the first to have the balls. I suppose to release a sub $200 3d printer kit that actually worked well enough for me to recommend on this channel. The Trunks EX1. So when they reached out to me about their ender 3 style 3d printer, the XY 2 I must admit I assumed it would be the same, but with a more budget feel yeah. I was wrong. The XY 2 might just be the most suitable beginner’s 3d printer of its class yet, but it certainly isn’t perfect. Let’s get started. [MUSIC] how’s it going, guys? Angus here front, make his views jumping straight into the specs. The Chauncey XY 2 has almost identical printing specs on the surface to the Kree ality and a3 same print volume of 220 by 220 with a supposed 10 millimeter extra Z height at to 60 millimeters, and the extruder design is a carbon copy of the end of 3 and clarity machines. In general, It’s Bowden, with the PTFE, extending all the way into the nozzle and hot end, the design also uses V rollers in aluminium vessel extrusion and so far pretty much same as under 3 however, from this point, things start to change the XY 2 has a color touch screen off to the side, and it’s quite decent with careful consideration to these small details, such as loading and unloading filament like the routine will actually extrude a bit of filament quickly and then quickly retract and then pull it out instead of trying to pull it out continuously, which usually leads to a plug in the Bowden Tube. So that’s clever and appreciated what I don’t appreciate is the micro SD card, but, hey, everyone seems to be doing it. And if that’s the only way they can achieve the price point, then fine. I’ll suck it up. He also comes with this thing. A filament run-out sensor machines assigned a ship with this now more and more and it’s a nice, cheap insurance to running out of filament mid print, but don’t bet the house on this sensor. It’s just a dumb micro switch in a housing. So if your filament strips and jams but doesn’t run out like having to me here, then it won’t know or care and your print will still fail for some reason. The gearbest listing has it as a AC heated bed, which it definitely doesn’t have. Its DC. That’s what I prefer on a machine at this price point and something that Crowley definitely has them licked with is the print surface. Come on, guys, it’s not 2016 stop shipping with these poor quality imitation build tech surfaces. Okay, look, honestly, it does work better than many of tests in the past. If your bed level is perfect, maybe a little bit closer than normal. You’ll get good adhesion, but there’s just something about having to pop prints off with something like this that I really disagree with. They give really quickly, and it’s terrifying, so really, I would replace this with, like something like the easy peel, Z magnetic print surface or something that can be removed or maybe even just glass where it just pops off when it cools down talking about leveling, though it is just manual bed leveling with four points and this plate seems pretty flat, though I’m not sure if there’s a few high spots because the surface on top or because of the plate. But it’s pretty much, okay, I can create a pulp volume. The biggest difference between this machine and most other end of three star printers on the market, though it comes almost fully assembled right out of the box. Yeah, basically, like a CR 10 you bolt the gantry into place. Attach the wires and control box. And you’re good to go now. Putting the wires in place is a bit choose-your-own-adventure. Just make sure there’s enough room for them not to get stuck or kink, and you should be fine, but yeah, just that’s probably my only complaint there. There’s no real guidance for that Anyway. Let’s get into the printing. The demo print was done in the orange floor. Opa, it came with. It had just a little bit of a sample. And that sample did what samples generally do it completely tangled and stuffed up the last layer because remember, can’t detect jams. However, the print does look pretty good. Wed test model and then moved on to ensuring. I could print without stringing after the whole debacle of trying to print on these machines without stringing and I’ve been using a new cure profile and I had success, but what the hell is that this print is bulging and I repeated it and it bashed repeatedly. So what the heck is going on? There’s not much info out there on the XY -. It’s definitely not nearly as popular as the end of 3 so it really could be anything In terms of troubleshooting. It could be a motor not having the current it could be a binding lead screw. It could be a pork or the couple of lead. Screw could be misaligned or what it turned out to be could be those rollers and here is the curse of oversight because the gantry was preassembled from factory. I didn’t test the tension of the rollers. I did make sure they weren’t too loose because they weren’t, but yeah, they were a bit too tight and not only that they seemed to be poorer quality and maybe not fully concentric because even though I’ve loosened it up when you move it up and down, it still kind of catches on points. Regardless, I increase the motor current in the Z and tried to loosen up the tension and look, there might be other issues with the actual V slot accuracy. I’m not sure, but I did start to get better prints, but they’re still not perfect. I also want to mention the super weird belt paths that this machine and other ones use. I don’t know why you people do this. It’s like pushed in and out it’s not. It’s not straight across. It’s not parallel, so whatever I wouldn’t do it. But it seems to work with all that out of the way there I was confident to start with my barrage of test prints beginning with my infamous tolerance and clearance gauge now. Each segment of this gauge has a different wall tool distance, so it goes from 0.5 millimeters all the way down to 0.15 millimeters, and I generally print this model on a raft to ensure the bottom layer has the best chance it has to separate because like with build textile surfaces, you generally want to go nice and close and that can lead to a bit of elephant foot and can bind them together, sided a raft and surprisingly, even though it took a little bit of convincing the 0.2 and 0 point 1 5 clearances Were free after I gave it a little bit of encouragement with a screwdriver. I think with a little bit of extra tweaking on the software, you might better get them to be free easier, but really, that’s the best. I would expect out of a machine. This price point, It’s pretty incredible, and it’s still better than what I got with my end of 3 I couldn’t get the 0.15 to work in my test, but again your mileage may vary time for some practical prints with these spur gears. And, oh, God, what is happening now, admittedly? I hadn’t noticed that the Stepper motor that was clicking occasionally on the first and last layers of prints and, yeah, I suspect. The current just isn’t high enough to overcome the forces required for a Bowden. When it’s really pumping filament out also might be an issue with keeping up with the temperature in the hot end, so it resulted in two tests and both times the prints were, yeah, pretty badly under extruded in areas and in this case just completely failed, so I opened up the control box and printed this, which is just a big flat sheet of plastic, and I’d graduated weak the current on the extruder motor till it stopped clicking, and I made sure it was getting enough temperature as well, so printing it 200 degrees. So look, that’s not something you can expect a new beaker to do, which is why. I hesitate to fully recommend this machine, but it did stop it clicking and look. If you can’t do that, you could just print slower or rack your temperature up. I think that’s the real limitation here. Because 60 millimeters per second with the fully infills pumping plastic out, it just couldn’t quite keep up and now because we have increased the current in the stepper drivers. They’re going to get much hotter, But thankfully tronc. C does have a fan in the back to keep things cool, which you can turn off from the front using this button, which says light. But yeah, don’t do that. You might be tempted to because the whole machine when it’s on is quite loud, but ya don’t with all the things tweaked. The final gears did turn out quite good, nice and solid, No more mister Extrusion, a little bit of layer and accuracy, which again? I’ve mentioned and there’s a little bit of elephant foot because you have to be nice and close to that surface to make sure it sticks, but these are perfectly usable and you could definitely use this machine for practical prototypes. As long as you allow a little bit of tolerance in your design. Next was to throw something a little bit bigger at this machine, And that is the Triceratop’s skull from scan the world and that’s found on my mini factory. It’s one of my favorite difficult prints because it needs a ton of support material underneath it and Printers can occasionally knock this over and result in the print failing If it was going all night and I came back to it the morning to just see it finish gorgeous. This print and the filament does a really good job at hiding defects now. I am being very picky. Most people would be absolutely stoked with this print, but there is some layer in accuracy, Probably because of the rollers again, and I’m not sure if there’s some extrusion inaccuracies where it might have under or over extruded, but it’s definitely better than this one where that’s been fixed and something I completely forgotten about with Keira is the support material generation. Yeah, it’s sharp and it’s everywhere, so it did clean up pretty easily. I still got a bit here, but, um, be careful. Guys, it’s razor sharp when you’re removing it, But it does actually come off, which is nice so you can use support on this machine quite confidently out of Keira and get really good, complicated prints. If you do have a power cut. This machine does have power recovery to help you recover the print that you will still have a fairly obvious scene because it doesn’t move the nozzle out of the way after the power cut there enough, but it is a handy feature. If you do have that fairly often where you live, but anyway, conclusion time, why can it ever be easy? This thing is almost perfect for a beginner and at the price point of a hundred ninety five dollars us on flash sale, It’s a little bit cheaper even than the end of three, with many additional features, you could pick up a few and populate an entire library or makerspace, with a ton of 3d printing capability and the end of three while not a true parts kit, it does come with the hard parts preassembled. This thing comes with two main components. It’s basically a CR ten for a way lower price point, and it has the filament sensor and yeah, but look, the rollers really let this down. I don’t know exactly what is going on. What’s lower, Cooley? But I suspect that the rollers and Extrusion aware chunks you’ve saved a bit of money compared to quality and it really does reflect in my prints anyway, on the actual surface quality, whereas the accuracy of the layers on the end of three were much better in my tests. You’ll need to do yourself a favor and pick up a sheet of easy peel Z or maybe even glass instead of this built AK surface because even though it does work, it even lifts off the logo and paint onto the bottom of parts like stamp them. It’s really funny, so yeah, that’s pretty poor quality, and, of course. I had the issue with the extrusion and the extruder gear, skipping and and losing steps because it didn’t have enough current, but it still feels difficult to complain too much about that because they’re likely tweaked by hand in factory and in my experience of these companies, It’s probably already fixed and it’s. It is easy to do and like. I said you could slow the print speed down, but yeah, having the crack over the electronics is like an instant fail for me on recommending a printer to beginners so you could print slower. You could put it with higher temperature, but I don’t want people to be cracking. Open the box. If you don’t know what you’re doing because it’s very easy to stuff it up. It’s very tightly packed in there and the beginner just shouldn’t have to do that at any price point and on that note, quality control is always a bit of a potshot with these budget printers, so your results will probably vary. So please keep that in mind. It is a very low cost printer, and I have been very impressed with it overall, but if you need a real real warranty, get a better machine with a higher price out of reputable supplier, so a very big. Thanks to trunk, see? Tronic’s, why, for setting this machine across to me to test out and present my findings to you guys as always, This has been my own personal opinion, and no money has changed hands. If you want to grab one of these for yourself, you can find two links below. One is an affiliate link where I get a small cut. If you buy one and the other is just a standard link, which one you use is totally up to you, but either way, keep in mind as of right now. Start of February, it’s Chinese New Year so expect delays. Regardless of which link you use. If you enjoy this video, then maybe consider subscribing here on maker’s views as my aim to empower your creativity through technology And I’d love to have you on board. I have one more into Three-star machine to review the XV Co pioneer, This bad boy, which will be reviewed very shortly and look for. Xia, again very shortly. I just said that twice. I don’t care catch later. Guy’s, bye!

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