Tevo Tarantula Z Axis Upgrade | Why You Need To Upgrade/improve The 3d Printer Tevo Tarantula’s Z Axis

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Why You Need To Upgrade/improve The 3d Printer Tevo Tarantula's Z Axis


What’s up, everyone? Welcome back to George’s gadgets today. We’re gonna be talking about the TiVo tarantula and some brackets and then also a new Z access to hopefully make it more sturdy for you and I’ll show you how I implemented that, and maybe some of the things that I ran into that. Were issues and also great news. My Mk3 just came in, so I’m gonna be having a video. Come out with that build and first tests and just talking about all the cool things that you can do with that, so stay tuned for that. And I’m not gonna blabber on anymore, lets. Just get to the video. Oh, yeah, it’s back the TiVo tarantula. But, uh, let’s wait once again. Check out that bed, look at this card for the video of the upgrade, so we’re talking about the easy access in this upgrade. I wanted to replace these flimsy acrylic parts because I don’t like how you can actually move them And it’s also slanted. If you see here and the coupler that holds the threaded, rod is bent, so I wanted to fix that issue and something. I didn’t do in my previous videos that I want to start doing is giving credit to the people of the parts that I’m I use so thingy. Rob made all the brackets that I use in this and they’re great. I really recommend them to anyone. He has a huge following on fingers and the link is in the description down below. Then we’re gonna talk about D Co three’s Z stabilizer, use a bearing to hold the threaded rod, and it stops it from moving around. Its kind of like having a smooth right next to it so that it holds its stable. It works really well, and it helps with the Z banding as you can see this picture. I recommend it, so check this one out and the last thing that we’re gonna be using is going to be Kissel or Rays. Excuse me if I’m butchering that. No sanding Oldham bracket. So this helps with deviations in the threaded rod and prevents Zee bandy as well. All right, so we’re gonna pull these in the slicer and arrange them, and then we’re gonna throw them onto the SD card so that we can bring it over to the Prusa and get it ready for printing and after a night of waiting, you wake up to beautifully printed parts. Let’s get started working on this thing. Let’s bring it over the workbench and get everything situated. So these are the parts. I’m going to be using. This is the Z stabilizer bidc o3 This is Kissel arrays, no sanding, old and bracket all the different pieces that were going to need and some extra fidget spinner bearings that have had laying around the Assembly of this was pretty easy and you can see that. I printed out actually all of his instructions just to make sure that I was doing it correctly and the screw set that I’m using. I put an affiliate link down below. If you want to get a screw set, just like this. Go ahead and use the affiliate link, it’ll. Help me out and it’ll help your projects out as you can see here. This is the final product of how it should look like assembled. The guides just slide really easily into the the top and bottom pieces. And you use the smooth, and as the part that’s gonna be facing towards the bearing, something that I was worried about when I first pulled it off, whereas I saw the notch. But the notch is supposed to be printed face down so though we’ll be bridging, but that’s so that the Baroness isn’t taking this off, took really long and this is time elapsed, so it took me like 10 seconds here, but it took, like 5 minutes in real life. I was like what the heck and I was. Super Happy with thingy. Robs Z brace or Z bracket. It’s really sturdy and there is absolutely no bending like there is on the original acrylic so to hold all the brackets in place and all the parts. I’m using these slide in. Basically what the t-nuts are, but these ones slide in, and they’re easier to position. There’s also an affiliate link down below. If you want to get those that it makes installing all these parts a lot easier. I’m just screwing in all the brackets, and this is just a different view. I want you to see how they actually work. So instead of a tea nut where you have to like, twist it in and put it in exactly this one you can. I decided set it up and then just slide it to where you want and I use the Allen wrench to kind of position it better, but my recommendation is to get like a really powerful magnet, and if you put the magnet over the bracket, you can just slide the nut back and forth all of the parts, except for the stabilizer and the old ham. The no sanding bracket were printed out in patch box abs, but the old ham and the stabilizer were printed out in the i/o robotic filament. I think that it’s great, and they have a package deal that they offer on Amazon so that you can get a bunch of different colors and a bunch of different roles for a discount. So I have those links down below if you want to check that out [Music] so now I have the threaded rod all assembled and the Oldham assembled. I just put it back on to the Stepper trigger after I attach the threaded rod with just the Oldham and binky Rob’s bracket. I was really happy with how it turned out and I was debating on whether or not I should use the Z stabilizer, but I decided since I have it and I have a million extra bearings I might as well. It was difficult filming this video because I had a top down view. So I wanted to give you guys different views, and this is kind of what it looks like as I’m assembling the Z’s stabilizer. I’m gonna use a Beall touch in the future, so right now. I’m setting up that end stop. And then I realized after you know, 30 minutes of trying to get it, just right that I didn’t need it. So I end up taking that off and I had to expand the holes so that the screws would slide in easier and also a thing he Rob’s bottom bracket is not designed to work with this, so I use the dremel tool just to trim part of the part after I trim. Did it fit just fine and I just had to use some of the extra long and four screws that I had in my kit. And this is where having a magnet would really help positioning those sliding nets. I was trying to use that to wall, but it was just wasn’t powerful enough, and I didn’t have an extra one laying around anyway. So what I ended up having to do is lay it on its side and then try and slide them by just tilting the printer and it was a pain in the butt, but I eventually got it. Please don’t make fun of my hairy Hobbit feet. You have to make sure that the rod is straight and make sure that you tighten down. The pieces actually connected to the x-axis and this is it? This is how it looks finally. I think it turned out really great, and as you can see, there is no bending of that cowboy, which is amazing. These are the brackets that I printed out the thingy. Rob designed. I think they’re spectacular and they really make the whole frame more sturdy. Tell me what you guys think about how it came out down below. Alright, guys! I had a blast making this video for you and as always, I hope we’ll see you next time. Please leave a thumbs up and subscribe if you haven’t already, and we’ll see you in the next video.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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