Rocket League 3d Print | 3d Printing From Rocket League!

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3d Printing From Rocket League!


Hello, Internet and welcome to the first ever episode of let’s make powered by Fab Lab Tacoma and Fab Lab comm. My name is Corey and for our first ever episode, we’re going to be making the paladin from Rocket League In case you’re not aware Rocket League is the aerial acrobatics toy car game where you knock a soccer ball around for five minutes until you destroy your keyboard in frustration, so we’ve basically learned how to export some of the game files into our 3d software and decided to take a 3d printer and print the thing. Then we decided to sand it and paint it and make it kind of awesome. So if you’ll stay tuned for the next little bit, we’re going to show you how we did it, and, yeah, it’s going to be epic, you you. The absolute hardest thing about printing A 3d model is the fact that as the files come right out of the game. They have no depth to them whatsoever. The 3d printer really doesn’t understand how to interpret the empty space between the the surfaces of a model so what we’ve been able to do is add the depth in manually ourselves with all of our projects. We’re going to make everything open-source. So if you want to do it yourself, go to the description below and download the files. While this isn’t going to be a step-by-step tutorial, it should be pretty easy to follow along with what we’re doing so without further ado, let’s make something once you’ve downloaded your files from Thingiverse it’s time to bring it into whatever printing software you’re using. We’re going to be using the Makerbot software because we have MakerBots and as far as these printers are concerned, the most important thing is 0.2 millimeter layer height, as well as a 10% in fill with rafts and supports enabled as for the MakerBots. Make sure you’re printing to the interior of the printer. That way you don’t get any warping or bending of the material as it prints. So at this point, it’s time for a 17 and a half hour time lapse you, so after 17 and a half hours, the print is finally done and I have to say the resolution on it looks great, we printed at 0.2 millimeter versus taking it down to 0.1 obviously 0.1 it would have taken twice as long, maybe even three times as long so 17 and a half is plenty enough. We’ll go ahead and break it off and we’re going to get it over to the workbench and get started on so just with the you know, Paint scraper, get in there and get up under the wrap and when it breaks from all sides and just peel it off the printer, So let’s go ahead and take it over there and get the breakdown on it started and I am thoroughly impressed. You know, really when we were putting it together in the modeling software. I never imagined that it would look this good, so what we would do now. Just take a basic pair of needle nose pliers and to start just breaking off some of the raft and throwing it to the side as soon as we get all of the support material off of the model and we’ll be able to apply some epoxy and really get rid of the steps. So at this point, it’s just a matter of getting it cleaned up and ready to go. So once you’re finished, removing the raft and support structure. You’ll be ready to move on to the next couple of phases as far as finishing the surface goes, you’re going to need basically a 180 to 220 grit, sandpaper and just worry about removing some of the major visual imperfections. You don’t want to focus on trying to eliminate all the striations in order to fill in. Striations, we’re actually going to be using an epoxy resin so here we have the XTC 3d which you’ll see in our Amazon link descriptions in the bottom of the video and what you’ll do with the epoxy is measure it out. It’s very simple at a two-to-one ratio and then lightly apply it to the structure and the surface of the model. You so it took about four or five hours for the resin to dry, but we left it overnight. You’re going to come back and probably see a couple of large build ups on this. It’s just a natural part of the process as you coat the resin on, it’s going to droop down to the sides. So what you want to do is get your. Santa, same sandpaper, a 180 to 220 grit and just go to work on it. We’re getting pretty close to the final step the whole processes, which we’re going to come in and start to put our base coat on for paint. I just ran down to Hobby Lobby and grabbed some modeling paint after the Epoxy is placed over the surface. You’re basically working with the exact same material that you would with a model car so stands to reason that model car paint is going to work extremely well, so knock off all the high points and then let’s get it into the paint booth. So as far as spraying, the primer goes the best. I can tell you is that you’re going to want to start with the undercarriage. If you get to work on the exterior first and then decide to do the undercarriage, you’re going to have to be touching some of the surfaces. You need to hold the model, so we’re just very simply just going to start applying a really light coat to the under components first, and then we’ll move over and start work on the top so once the primer dries, you can go ahead and start sanding again. Ah, now that we’ve got a coat of primer on it. We can actually see some of the areas that are going to be problematic. The main reason we wait to sand so that we’re not sanding away material. That’s going to come out good after the epoxy coat anywhere, though, that you see some imperfections and you can begin to smooth them out, hit it with the sandpaper and then we’ll put another coat of primer on it, and that should get rid of all the excessive striations. It is a 3d print. So I mean, we’re still going to have some. We’re not going to be able to completely get away from it, but we should be able to get it cleaned up in such a way that it does look very good by the time we’re done you. So I made the tragic mistake of mixing aerosol and water-based paints and the outcome of that was that the seams in between the two were basically completely ruined, so we’re going to go back to the drawing board, and since I suck at painting with a brush, we’re going to make everything out of aerosol based paint, So we got some rust oleum here. We’re still going to be using our modeling paint. Which is the spray enamel? But the other thing what we did is we’re going to switch over and use some frog tape. I had just been using some traditional. You know, painter’s tape. But the lines were not very clean, so on lesson learned, we’ll go ahead and and do a second shoot on the paint, so we’ve stripped it down with some acetone and basically just got it down to the primer layer, which is now ready for paint, so the Paladin made a really great first project. It turned out just exceptional. The the paint dried on it very well and once it. Did you really can’t tell that this is something that came off of a 3d printer overall? I think it makes a great first project for our channel, and we’d love to continue to do more projects like this. So if you liked this video and want to see more like it, give us a like or subscribe and share it on all of your social links. You could also consider supporting the channel through our Amazon affiliate links. And if you really want to see us, do something cool. Leave a comment down in the section below and we’ll see what we can do to make it happen.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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