Red Hood Helmet 3d Model | Red Hood Rebirth Cosplay Mask – 3d Printed Build Tutorial

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Red Hood Rebirth Cosplay Mask - 3d Printed Build Tutorial


Hey, guys, what’s up? Welcome to my channel. My name is Frank. And today We’re making the Red Hood Hood. [MUSIC] Yes, you guys are on the same channel turns out. I do like some DC stuff too. This is the red hood rebirth helmet by do 3d and it’s a pretty simple print and a really cool little file. I’m a little bit of a Red Hood fan. I’ve seen some of the movies and know a little bit about the comics, but, uh, this was actually a commission project for a friend. I’ve had the file for quite a while, and I figured it was time to pull the trigger start. You know, branching out a little bit more and what better to add to the collection than another red mask as you can see. I made two of them. This is another commission for somebody else. You’ll learn more about that in a later date at a later time. So don’t worry about that right now, but this is a really fun fun project. I got a lot of, uh, very quick. Footage of, uh, post sanded and post primed and, uh. I wanna talk, you guys through that the process And what I did and how I got from there to here it act. This print actually fits on a, um, a vast majority of the beds. If it was 14 millimeters shorter, it would actually fit on an ender three, so you will have to be a little creative. If you do want to put the print this on something like an ender, but you really only have to cut a little bit of the jaw off, besides for that, it comes in two pieces of front and back, and it’s a really quick print. So, uh, lets, uh, rearrange the camera. We’ll get set up and I’ll take you through the process. Here’s the file on do3dcom, and as you can see, it is two main pieces with the eye lenses being printable separately, but you’re probably not gonna do that anyway. And once you actually get the file into cura, you’re gonna see that it is just one big piece. I don’t have the the back plate dropped in. That’s a much easier print for orienting and actually printing. And as you can see, This is the absolute minimum. It’ll fit on an ender. Three, it’s just negative 14 long enough. So if you go through here and actually drop this in the slicer or mesh mixer, you can actually go ahead and plane cut this right off, and that’s really not that hard to re-weld and reattach aside from that. It fits on everything bigger than an ender 3. So if you drop print this on something like a cr-10’s the way I actually oriented, this print was by rotating it forward and kind of standing it up on its chin, roughly like that, so all that was needing support was actually the eyes and I was able to support block up here, and if you’ve never used support blockers, what you can do is, it’s a little add-on down here. You can get it in the marketplace, so it’s a little download, so you hit support blocker, and then you drop it right there on the model, and then from there, you can go ahead and actually scale the support blocker like a model, and you want the support blocker to block out all of the red because that’s where your supports are going to want to be added, so you go ahead and it can collide through the model. That’s totally fine, so we want to block out the red, just like that, and then look around the model. Look like it’s supported. Okay, so now we have to make sure we pick up the model because I had it through the build plate. There’s some support there, support there and support in the eyes and depending on what your infill and settings and all that fun stuff is, you’re gonna need to figure that out yourself and the quality you want to print at, but let’s just go ahead and slice this, so if we go over to preview at the top here after it’s sliced and you make sure you check this little pencil, you can switch it from material color to line type and line type is going to show you all the actual parameters of what each piece is now the shell is going to be red, and then the infill you can’t obviously see that it’s inside, and then the helpers are all blue, and you can go ahead and get rid of some of these things, and then you can see the infill. You can see where all the supports are and this. Lets you evaluate the print. So this is very crucial. When evaluating a print before you actually send it now. Don’t worry about the time again. You’re going to adjust this. However, you deem fit depending on the quality and infill and all that I think this is roughly what mine took on the the CR-10 Max and it was about a day of a print so you can actually see it and track it as it builds up, so I always like to watch the first couple layers in the program as it goes up in print, because if I’m noticing that it’s not getting a lot of good support as it’s moving, I’m gonna go and try to rearrange it and you can see where all these, Uh, these zigzags and criss-crosses are that is actual direct contact support for the model, so it’s getting a lot of good support early on, and then it builds up from there, so you can go ahead and track this by using your arrow keys and moving the slider bar up and down and you can actually watch and follow the print, so the eyes actually are being supported. This is a pretty much exactly how I printed it. So this is what you’re going to want to do right here and I would send that print. It’s only going to use barely 400 grams of filament and that’s good to go. And if this fits on a cr-10s, it’ll fit on another five plus an artillery sidewinder x1 It’ll fit on a multitude of printers, so let’s go ahead and, uh, let’s move on to the next step. You can see here how it printed exactly how I just had it oriented, but I believe I made the raft a little bit bigger, so it collided and actually was able to go down there and touch the actual print. Now it printed very nicely. I forgot I printed this on my cr-10 Max, not my cr-10s. But it took about the same time and you can see. It survived just fine. It had a little bit of wobble and it wasn’t too bad. Um, but the layer lines, everything sanded out just perfectly. This was printed in gray mono price PLA, plus at 2 15 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed and you can see that the supports and everything were just breaking away Absolutely effortlessly and I was able to peel it off the chin. That was the only outer collision area so it was able to be cleaned up really really easily and I. I really like how it came out. I really like the quality of it now. Unfortunately, being under the spotlight on my desk, it really did show all the layer lines that were prominent and really amplified how they looked. I wasn’t the biggest fan of that under this lighting. I wish I had recorded it better, but they look much worse than they actually are. However, it was a pretty flat surface aside from what was in like the brow wrinkle area. I was able to sand everything down with the Palm Sander Pretty effortlessly and I could have dumped a little bit more filler primer on it, but as you can see this like just this angle and lighting really amplifies it, But I promise it wasn’t that bad at all, and you can see after I sand it. Um, all these layer lines right there kind of disappear, so I took my palm Sander to it and I was able to sand it down and almost all the layer lines were completely gone with just one pass of the 60 grit and then a quick hand rub of like, 200 grit, sandpaper, sanding this whole helmet down, took maybe four to five minutes, and then I hit it with its first layer of black primer. And you can see the difference here. The the nice contrast of the pre-primed and post-primed and after I primed it black, you can still see some of the layer lines and the prep work is key. This is your most important stage right here. And this a lot of people sleep on this. They want to get to the paint, and I understand that, but prep work is key the longer you take in this stage. It will only amplify your final results, so I. I can’t stress that enough. Just take your time sand, prime sand, prime. I do it too. Just the Palm Sander helps me cut down on that time. A lot and print quality helps cut down on that time as well. I’m not chasing these really big, thick layer lines. I can actually just go right into the painting stage pretty quickly, and this entire helmet was sanded, primed, painted and weathered in about four to five hours. After I was going with the primer stage. I moved into the paint stage, and I used two different red paints for this. They’re actually the exact same red paints. I used on my mark 85 suit. I used a sunrise red as a base coat where I sometimes use the colonial red depending on it, but then I went over it with this metallic rust-oleum automotive enamel and this brings out the metallic sheen. So as long as you have a nice red base coat underneath it, it gives you these absolutely beautiful results, and I was really happy with it, so I actually applied the enamel while the the base red was still on there and you can see Just how nice it dried. This dried in probably about 10-15 minutes. If I pressed hard enough, I was able to put my fingers through some of the paint, but that really wasn’t too big of a deal and I I just it was nice and glossy. And this was without any top coat. Any clear coat and it came out wonderful now. If you look real hard, you can see some of the layer lines in the brow again. I didn’t spend the most time sanding it. I was on a little bit of a time crunch for this, but I’m happy with it with the time that I put into it. I’ll call it a little, You know, one day build and homage to Adam Savage. Um, I was really proud of this. So the pain cured up in about an hour where I was able to actually get a little bit more rough with it, and it was time to put on some of the black detail. So I took this tamiya, uh, semi-gloss black. Because the flat black was too much, and it actually ended up working out perfectly. It gave it just a little bit of a sheen to it, but it wasn’t overbearingly, um, gloss black and it didn’t get hidden with, like a flat black wood, so it really added some nice depth to the eyes and, uh, this again. This lighting is absolutely terrible. I gotta stop filming underneath this. Uh, little floodlight See that looks much better, so these were the perfect colors that I wanted and I’ve seen a lot of different red hood colors through, you know, cosplays and images and comics and movies, So really, the sky’s the limit. I see people do flat red. I see people do gloss red. Um, and I really didn’t have time in this instance to go through and clear coat it and buff and polish it. I do want to go and add my own and really put my own time into it. Um, see, just how much better I can make these, but you know, I am okay. Letting these go. I’m happy with them. At a distance, they look absolutely great, and I’m very pleased with them. Obviously I’m my own worst critic, and I can pick these apart all day. See, don’t. These look better under this type of lighting, So now we’re here now, we’re caught up into the real world while I’m filming. And for weathering really, the sky’s the limit with weathering. Um, I did take some reference images from some other cosplayers and some, you know, fan, art and stuff like that to see just the kind of damage that this kind of mask takes, and I kind of added my little signature little eye slash here, that’s. Just I like on my mark 85 but really, um, there’s a couple ways. You can go with weathering this. What, I’ll do what I actually did is I was. I went and scraped some of the paint off. Um, just to give it that little bit of depth, so I was actually sitting in there, Just scraping the paint off, and then I went back over it with just a little bit of shine. Silver Tamiya paint and you can use. I’ve seen people use, um, metallic sharpies, really, any kind of silver paint because this is supposed to be a type of metal mask, and it is going to take some damage and dings, So I really wanted to kind of show that, and then I threw some kind of just basically rough dirt. Um, you know, black paint and oil wash, and there’s tons and tons of tutorials on weathering, and it’s really fun to do. I know it might seem nerve-wracking to people to paint something. Get it looking! You know, presentable, something that you’re like. Oh, wow, this, you know, I’m actually proud of this and then going and then damaging it. But once you get past that little, uh, that little fear weathering becomes. This really really fun thing that you can just the sky’s the limit. And if you maybe you hadn’t, I actually ended up getting a bad fingerprint here on the chin and I was able to just kind of turn that into some weathering damage. I just sanded it off and, uh, I’m pretty happy with how it came out. So this is, uh. This one’s gonna be weather just pretty similar to this one. I did like how it came out. Another tip. Always make sure you weather when the whole thing is built together. What I ended up doing and I still need to go back and fix it is. I started to add some damage here, but I didn’t have it mated up to the main plate, so this damage doesn’t make sense. So I’m gonna have to go back through here and, uh, finish basically adding a nice scratch or something here, so that just doesn’t flow, right, there’s a seam line and it just doesn’t make sense now, two things. I want to show you guys that I thought were you know a nice trick for this? Um, I just added three elastic straps in the back, and it works out perfectly when your head’s in there and it just lets you open it up. Just enough to get squeeze your head in there and I have a pretty big head and this fits me at 100 scale, just fine and it’s nice and comfy. I might add just a little foam pad in there just for a little bit of extra comfort for the for my friend and the other. Um, soon to be owner of this helmet. So I’m pretty excited about that, and you can see the led eyes that I added in there with the battery pack. And you’ll probably already notice if you’ve been on my channel. These led eyes look, a little bit smaller than usual, and I want to show you guys something really cool, so you probably have already seen. The flexible cosplay led eyes and these are pretty big. These obviously those are much bigger than the ones that are in there. You can cut these and the biggest problem I had with cutting these. Is that there’s this silver border around the ledi. It’s a little sticker and you can actually go and peel it off, so it’s actually just a silver tape and what it does is. It helps reflect the light all around in there. So what you can do is you can go and peel that entire thing off. Put it somewhere safe, and then you can take the flexible cosplay ledi and cut them to shape. I didn’t need this whole giant eye in there so you can go ahead. Cut it to whatever shape and size you want and then put the silver border back around it and it’ll work exactly how it did. When it was actually taped up now I went and added my own led eyes in here. The led eyes that I had in there since this was so much smaller, they were actually too bright, even in well-lit areas. I still couldn’t actually see through these, and I want the, uh. I want them to actually be able to use them. So these are actually just slightly. Dimmer led eyes that I have extras of and I was able to go and cut the opening of where the Leds go in. I was actually since you can cut these. I was able to actually make it a little bit bigger and stuff an led in there. Theoretically, you can put multiple color Leds in here. You could cut channels. You can do a lot with these flexible eyes now. So this definitely like leveled up and unlocked. What we could do with this this little. Um, cosplay piece. And then it was a very simple wiring job. A positive negative and I have a little Velcro battery. Pack here with a plug this way. They can take out the battery pack. If they want or you know, changing. The batteries is pretty easy. You just slide it up And the reason I put it here. Instead of like the top this way, somebody can just reach up with their thumb and turn the lights on and off without having to reach around or kind. Put it in a weird position or something that, uh, you know, might make turning the eyes on and off a problem. They can just reach up into their chin. Turn it on, turn it off. That came out pretty nice, and I’m really happy with it. That kind of does it for this video, guys. Um, this isn’t that complicated of a build, and if you’ve been on my channel for a little bit, you’ve already seen the sanding tutorials, the painting tutorials, the welding tutorials, the ledi tutorials there’s. I have tutorials on all that stuff. I just wanted to show you what that finished helmet. Looks like. I found myself in this habit lately. I really wanted to over complicate these, Uh, build tutorials because I just felt like they weren’t good enough. I wanted to improve them, but a lot of the feedback. You guys have been giving me has been saying no like they’re fine. You’re okay with the you know. The bits of information I give you. I don’t really want these long drawn out gimmicky videos where I can’t just cut to the chase, and it seems you guys have been really receptive of me. Just kind of getting to the point. I did a b c d all the way to Z, and that’s it and you can take that and run with it. So if you guys have any questions as always drop some comments down below, I’m an open book ill. Get back to you, hit me up on Instagram. Hit me up on the discord. We just passed 1400 members and it’s a 3d printing cosplay discord. So go check that out. This was a really fun build, and it was kind of cool to branch out and do something else. Besides marvel or, you know, like something like samus. I do have more prints in work, and I’m sure you guys are gonna like to see things like this, because you know, this is the way and a multitude of other things. I’m just quite not gonna show you yet. You guys are gonna have to wait for the build video. So, uh, if you guys have any other suggestions on other types of superheroes or villains or lore or just animes and stuff that I’m kind of forgetting about, um, hit. Drop a comment. Let me know like. Hey, it’d be cool if you made this or that. Naruto’s covered, uh, sword art online’s covered. You guys have already given me those suggestions. But maybe some more deep cut ones. Um, I think Batman def. The Batman series definitely has the coolest tech and kind of you know, costumes in the DC. Universe that you know might be 3d printable. Um, everything else it’s more about, like spandex and unitards. And you know, lantern powers. So if you guys haven’t already if you could subscribe, that’d be really cool. Uh, we just recently broke 20 000 which is just like awesome. So thank you so much for that. Um, I’m not kidding. I have probably about seven different helmets printed right now. Some of you on the discord have already seen it. I’ve shown some of them on some of the live streams, and they all belong to different lores and universes and fandoms and all that. So I’m sure you guys some of you are gonna actually like at least one or two of the more helmets that I’ve printed. I won’t! Keep you guys any longer. I really appreciate you guys watching. Thank you so much and you guys have a good day. [music] you!

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Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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