Raspberry Pi Case With Camera Mount | Creality Ender 3 V2 – Make A Great Bed Mounted Pi Camera Arm For The Spaghetti Detective & Timelapse


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Creality Ender 3 V2 - Make A Great Bed Mounted Pi Camera Arm For The Spaghetti Detective & Timelapse


Hey, guys, in this video. We’re going to put together a great camera mount for our ender 3 version 2 for the Raspberry Pi camera version 2 so stick around the biggest drawback of these types of 3d printers. I believe is the amount of time that they take to print, and that print can go bad at any time. During the process, so it’s best to find a way to remotely view your prints and eventually maybe have a software review. Your video for problems so that you can have your life back. This video is going to be focused on the bracket and the Mount itself for the camera in a separate video. We’ll go over all the parts. You’re going to need to get set up with Raspberry Pi with octoprint with spaghetti detective with octolapse as well so after searching for quite a while, what I decided to do was remix the design on thingiverse so here’s a design that I like. This is for the CR-10 and the problem with this design for me is that is just too big. It won’t fit in my enclosure, But it also doesn’t give the viewpoint that I’m looking for. I want a viewpoint that is just down a little bit lower, so I can see the nozzle. I can see the printing happening, all right, So we’re in fusion 360. Now what I’ve done already is brought in the original design as a mesh. Now, if you’re not familiar with doing that, you just say insert mesh and you bring in the file that you’re looking for whether it be an STL or an object file. Now these mesh files aren’t really usable in a lot of ways that you’re maybe used to in fusion 360. But you can combine, you can slice as well. So the problem with this particular design for me is that it’s not intended for this particular pie camera. It is meant for what looks like a fisheye lens and because of that, you can adjust the focus when it’s on the machine or mount it in the case, and that’s a big problem, so what I’ve done is sliced off the bottom using a plane and that gives me access for the little focus adjustment knob to be used while it’s mounted in there. Okay, so now we’re on to the arm and you can see that this would be great for a large print, and you’re getting far enough back. You’re able to get good focus as well. I like that. They integrated the cable management right in there. Although I think I’ll go with something a little different, That’s easier to print with no overhangs like it. Has I bring with abs and overhangs are a little bit difficult. All right, so first. We need to get a reference plane. We want to confirm some dimensions as well 4.10 that’s perfect. The aluminum plate is four millimeters now, even though we’re copying a design that’s proven more or less to work. I’d like to add some dimensions to try and round them off a little bit, so that’s easier for reference, and also if you want to manipulate anything in the future, we can easily do that just by going back into these sketches, so I’m shortening this up a little bit. That’s going to do a really good job with reducing the amount of vibration off to the side where it mounts to the bed. There really isn’t a lot that I can do with the thickness because that’s where the adjustment knob for the bed leveling goes as well. One thing that’s critical with these pivot arms is the distance between the two pivot points. It needs to be applying some pressure so that it keeps the camera in place and it can’t rotate during the print. If it’s too loose, it’s just going to move around during the printing process, it’s not going to give the result that we’re looking for, so we’ve got the two parts that we need to actually put together, but what I’m going to do is print them as two separate pieces and join them with essentially a mortise and tenon connection like you would see in woodworking and the reason is because I want to print this part laying down, and I don’t want to print it with supports if I can avoid that, so I do want to print this one laying down in this orientation because it’s going to maximize the strength in the direction that I need and I want to make sure that this is as stiff as possible so that there’s very little vibration that’s possible to travel through to the camera. All right, so we’ve just done a little mortise and tenon connection here real quick, and that can be assembled with acetone or super glue or if it’s done really. Well, it can just be a slip fit, and if it’s tight enough, I’ve added a few chamfers here, just for aesthetics to make it look good, a little bit more refined. So if there’s something wrong with this piece here, we don’t need to reprint the entire part or vice versa. If we want a longer lower piece, for example, we don’t need to reprint this, all right, so now we’re jumped over to Cura. So we need to add a few settings. We need to add top layers, bottom layers, infill density infill pattern infill line multiplier to get the result that we’re looking for so what we’ll do is set the top and bottom layers to zero, we’re going to set the infill density to 25 or whatever you choose and infill pattern is set to triangles and the critical critical one here is infill line multiplier it’s going to double the amount of lines in this case to create the infill, so it creates a much thicker, stiffer infill pattern. [MUSIC] So time lapses are really neat to include in your videos for aesthetics, but they’re actually really good, Also for problem solving, you can see when something starts to go bad whether it’s coming away from the build plate or support going missing those types of things, so all of our parts are finished. I’ve used a 0.6 millimeter nozzle. It’s probably not the best for these parts because they’re very precise and the fit is critical, so I’ve had to file down a few pieces and some of the pins here and there for a better fit and I’ve also sanded the parts so that they look good as well. I’d like to give some credit to the original designer. These parts do fit together really well. And the case for the camera is just a perfect snap fit now. You can see that the adjustment for the focus can be done while it’s mounted in the case, which is just critical as for mounting the cable. I’m just going to use some double-sided exterior grade mounting tape. The assembly is really simple. Just put the spring into the top portion. Fit it underneath the bed. Put the screw back through, tighten up the leveling knob and adjust the level again. Now I’m testing this here and one thing that I’ve done is elongated the arm a little bit. So on the Thingiverse website in the description link below, there’s a short version and a long version as well. All that’s left to do is adjust the focus and then have some fun with time lapses. Well, guys! I hope you enjoyed the video and you got some information from this. If you did make sure you give me a thumbs up and subscribe. If you haven’t already take care, everybody see on the next one. [music] you!

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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