Prusa I3 Mk3 Print Volume | Original Prusa I3 Mk3 3d Printer Review – Still The Best 3d Printer?

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Original Prusa I3 Mk3 3d Printer Review - Still The Best 3d Printer?

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When it comes to 3d printing, then I love to showcase Budget-friendly 3d printers in my videos. The only problem with such a low-cost printers is that they to work decently, but not always good enough, which can in my case lead to a lot of frustration. That is why. I’ve been recently looking through lists of the best 3d printers to find out that many people seem to favor the original. Prusa i3 Mach 2 which in its kit form, comes with a reasonable price but while looking at the product lineup. I noticed that they recently released a new puja free version, which offers tons of improvements, So I reached out to them for review unit and a couple of weeks later, I received it in this huge package and in this video, I will show you my experiences ahead with the machine. What special features Democ 3 offers and finally whether I think it is bro of the price tag. Let’s get started after opening the package. I found a bag of gummy bears, a list with all past tests of my printer, A t-shirt, an introduction letter which was also a packaging list and the 3d printing handbook about which I will talk in more detail later and while opening up the sides of the package, I found two more smaller boxes, which contained a spool of gray PLA filaments and a bunch of accessories like a USB cable, a power cable, a spool holder glue stick tools, an SD cards and an alcohol pads with an acupuncture needle. The last thing to do for the unboxing was to lift out the Prusa i3 mach3, which, as you can see is the assembled version, but there also exists a kit version with a noticeable price drop and after removing the zip ties and a bit of carports, we can already see the first special feature of the printer, its removable platform, which due to its flexible, makes it a breeze to remove. Finnish prints combine that with the magnetic heat beds and you got yourself. A feature that, due to its convenience will hopefully be a standard for future 3d printers, but nevertheless I continued by powering up the printer and connecting it to a computer through the included USB cable next. I downloaded the driver software and the newest Mach 3 firmware from the Prusa 3d websites installed all of its and updated the 3d printer to its newest firmware version. Afterwards, the printer did a small self calibration and it was ready for printing. So I added the spool holder to the frame slid on the included peel, a filaments preheated the machine to PLA temperatures and simply inserted the filaments, which brings me to the second mentionable feature the optical filament sensor. Not only. Is it useful to automatically load new filaments, but it also causes the current print when the machine is running out of filaments and continues when new one is loaded, that is a pretty handy feature for large prints, but then again this sensor is not perfect, For example, when you got a clock hardened. These sensor usually noticed that too late and thus the print cannot be saved, but anyway, as a first test. I went with the included spattering test file before each print. The printer will execute it smash PAD leveling procedure in order to guarantee a level print. Then it has a wipe outside the print area and ultimately starts the actual print now. The printing process is pretty much what you would expect from every 3d printer, except for in my opinion, the best improvement of the mock 3 to get an understanding for this feature. Here is how a typical 3d printer sounds like during printing and here is how the Mach 3 sounds like not convinced yet. Well, let’s change over to stealth modes and listen again. The Mach 3 year is quieter than other 3d printers because it utilizes the TMC a21 300 Stepper motor drivers, which obviously are for quite movements, but not only that they also enable crash detection and recovery If the printhead runs into something during a print, and they also eliminates the need for mechanical and stops moving on once the battering print was completes. I popped it off the print pads and inspected its quality, which was decent, but what 3d printer reviewer would be complete without the Banshee Test print? So that is what I tried next. And after two hours of printing, The boat was complete and except for a couple of spots also looked very nice last, but not least I printed a whistle, which was also included on the SD card and then moved on to the 2 included slicer programs. The first one is more beginner friendly, which means you can only adjust a couple of settings and will most likely not mess up if you use one of the predetermined materials. If you’re like me though, and want to use exotic filaments, you have to use the second piece of software so that you can fine-tune the printing parameters of your machine all in all. Both programs work fine, but I noticed a small, slicing problem with a couple of models where parts just went missing what I did then was repairing the STL files with Netfabb, which up until now always solved the problem and with the slicing power achieved. I tried out smaller peel aprons as well as a very large peel, a print that took around 10 hours in both cases. The printer did the job reliably without any problems at all, and I think the results of the prints pretty much speak for themselves, and after I tried out PLA in a few different colors, which, as it would expect, not decrease the printing quality at all, I wanted to print with other materials first off black ABS out of which I printed a normal sized and an oversized pair of bolts and nuts, which opposed no challenge for the printer next White’s PGG out of which the printer created another bolt and not pair as well as more challenging and bigger USB SD card holder. In both cases, The quality has its up and downs for which the reason was probably the missing fine-tuning of the parameters from my sites. SD second-to-last filaments. I tried out filler. Flex, which obviously is a flexible filament and as you can see, it started out promising, but after only 5 minutes of printing, the hot end was clocked, so I remove the flexible filaments flush the hot end with some PLA and tried the printing once again, but this time way slower with only 20% speeds this way, the feel effects printed without any problems, but due to my impatience and later increase the speed to 33% which luckily also worked flawlessly. The only problem of such a flexible filament is that it is not easy to remove from the bulb platform and can also lead to damages of its if you’re not careful. But nevertheless, the results may have been a bit stringy, but not too shabby at all for the last material tests. I tried out wood filaments for which I was also too lazy to find you in the parameters, which resulted in two clocked hard ends that showcases well that such a printer is not magical and still requires fine tuning, and it also brings me to the importance of the 3d printing handbook. There pretty much everything you have to look out for before. During and after print is very well explained like cleaning the steel sheet surface with isopropanol before every prints or how to clean a nozzle with an acupuncture needle, which solved my clogging problem along with the Prusa forum. You can find pretty much answers to every which brings me to the conclusion of this review do. I think the printer is worth. Its price tag. Yes, definitely with its combination of useful new features, which we’re actually too many to fit them all in this review, along with the reliability and quality of the prints that make the Mach 2 so popular. This is a 3d printer that, especially as a kid form offers a great price performance ratio. The only thing that I would nitpick is its look now, While the metal frame, along with the 3d printed parts does offer enough stability. I’m generally not a fan of Cartesian style 3d printers, but, of course, that is completely subjective. I hope you enjoyed watching this review if so, don’t forget to. Like, share and subscribe, Stay creative, And I will see you next time.

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