Transcript:
This is the joy bonnet from. Adafruit it’s designed to fit on top of a Raspberry Pi zero. So you can make some really cool retro pie projects this week. We designed a case to make a classic looking game controller in this video. We’ll take a look at the build process and learn how to see and see the case using the other mill. Pro I started by modeling the components in fusion 360 so that I could design the case around the electronics. Then I use Cam tools to set up the tool path data for telling the CNC machine how to cut the design. I made sure to simulate each operation to avoid any collisions and limited the step downs to minimize the risk of tool breakage. Once that’s done, I process the g-code and got ready for milling. I’m using the other mill Pro, which is a really nice Desktop CNC, it’s compact and fully enclosed, so I can mill right on my desk without having to worry about dust flying all over the place to get my stock ready for milling. I need to come our material so that it can fit within the build volume. I used a tabletop jigsaw to cut pieces from a large stock of wood using the RIP fence. I was able to measure and cut pieces and get straight cuts. I needed to sand the edges down to get a flat surface. I think it’s a good idea to cut extra pieces so that we can have them ready for future projects. It’s really important to make sure the surface is nice and level to make sure you can lay it flat on the table and press down on the corners to see if it’s. Rocking, I’m using middle tape to secure the material to the spoil board. This is a double-sided tape that has strong adhesion, so it’ll. Keep our stock fixed to the bed. I only need a few strips, and I need to make sure that they’re not overlapping. The spoil board on the other, no pro is made from aluminum and it’s actually faced on the machine itself, so it’s nice and level to get proper alignment. We need to secure the material to the lower left corner of the spoil board. I’m using 1/8 inch flatten mill to run the first operation. This is called facing. It’s basically removing material to get our desired thickness At first. I was milling from both sides, but this leaves behind really thin strips of material. They’re pretty easy to remove, But later I found out how to prevent this. If we tell the operation to cut from only one direction, we can get really clean cuts. It’s also cutting along the wood grain, so it’s less aggressive and leaves a nice surface. The next operation is adaptive. Clearing this is similar to facing, but it generates a tool path that follows the shape. This clears the material with sequential step down. This operation takes the longest because it’s removing most of the material. Next is the contour. It basically cuts the outline of the case by following a single path over and over again, What’s that’s done? I need to switch the tool out for a 1/16 inch flat in Mill. I used a pocket operation to create the cutouts for the buttons. This makes concentric patterns and stepovers to clear out the selected geometry for the last operation. I used a 1/32 inch flat and male to make another pocket here. I’m using it to drill out the mounting holes in the corner Standoffs once. That was all done. I used a putty knife to remove the part. It’s a little rough around the edges, but it’s really easy to clean up, using 320 grit sandpaper. I knock down those burrs and got really smooth and crisp edges. I use the filing tool to get in between the necks and crannies and with enough sanding, you could really get nice surfaces and clean edges. I wanted this peach to really pop, so I played with some wood stain to get more of a dark color. I found it pretty easy to apply using an old rag and made sure to wear gloves to avoid the mess personally. I don’t like how it turned out so instead. I milled the parts in different types of wood here. I have some walnut oak in Maple. These all have a different look and feel so. I’m pretty happy that I tried them all out for the buttons. I wanted to try out some cherry wood. I think this gives the case. Some color separation again. I’m using Nitto Tape to secure the stock to the bed of the other mill. This was a lot easier to set up since the buttons are pretty simple. I faced the stalks and use to contour operations to cut out the buttons. I’ll use the 1/8 inch bit for the inner contour and a 1/16 inch for the final cut out. They were pretty easy to remove from the spoil board. I just use my fingers because they’re actually pretty small. I also milled out the blends out of acrylic, but that actually didn’t work out too Well, because the acrylic wasn’t thick enough to actuate the buttons. So here’s our parts looking all nice and crispy. Now we can move on to assembling the Raspberry Pi Zero. All we need to do is solder! The male headers on to the Pis GPIO! I actually used a 3d printed jig to hold the headers on the pie. This helps make the headers nice and straight while we solder each pin. Once the male headers are fixed in place, We can secure the jig to a pan of ice. You’ll have to solder each pin from the bottom of the pie! Once that’s done, we can move on to the rest of the assembly, which is probably the easiest part of the build. I had to shorten the header pin, so I used a pair of flush cutters to cut the pins in half. I just had to be careful not to cut them too short and keep them about the same height with that done. We can install the pie into the bottom Half of the case, then position the board so that the mounting holes line up with the standoffs. I used m25 screws to secure the board to the case. These are pretty short screws. They’re about five millimeters long next. I placed all the wooden buttons into the cutouts on the top of the case. Now you can grab the joy. Barnett and install it by laying it, face down line up the mounting holes with the standoff and fasten machine screws and with our two halves now assembled, we can bring them together to finish this project. We just need to make sure that the pins are going into the female headers, then just firmly press them together and that’s it now. We have a pretty sweet-looking game controller. This is a lot of fun putting together, and I learned a lot about CNC milling. This is the first enclosure that I’ve fully seen seeds, So there is a good amount of trial and error that I didn’t cover in this video. But hopefully this inspires you to make your own. Even if you don’t have, it seems to melt. The parts can be 3d printed. And if you don’t have a 3d printer, you can have somebody print them for you. You can check out 3d hubs. Calm. Hey, if you like this project, please let me know by giving it a thumbs up. Thank you for watching and make sure you subscribe to the 8 of your channel for new. DIY projects every week [Music].