Pla Not Sticking To Bed Ender 3 | Prints Not Sticking To The Bed?

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Prints Not Sticking To The Bed?


Pryn’t not sticking to the bed Were gonna tackle AK today on the first layer [Music]. Hey, welcome to the show. My name is Richard Cleveland. I’m your host here on the first layer now. If this is your first time here, go ahead and hit that subscribe button down below that look like this hit that Bell notification. So you get notified every time we do Brand-new content about 3d printing. Now this show explores the world of 3d printing and today is no different. We are gonna explore some more troubleshooting tips for you and today we’re talking about why your prints may not be sticking to your bed. We’ve got a lot to dive into, so let’s get started now. Prints not sticking to the bed. This is one of the most common issues that you’re going to find, especially with new people coming into the Hobby That are just getting started in 3d printing. Now, what’s the cause of it? How come you apparently you’ve leveled your bed? You may have, you know, you may be new to it. You may be an old hat at it, But for whatever reason, your print is not sticking to the bed, so let’s first start with the most common problem. And you guys are gonna say to me rich. I do everything, but nothing works well. The most common problem, first and foremost is your platform is not level and what I mean by that is that your heating bed is not level, so you may be getting adhesion on one side, but you’re not on the other, and that’s because your bed is kind of out of skew, and this is the kind of stuff that you can end up with. You can end up with stuff like that. You can end up with prints coming loose and then just going all over the bed. It’s just it’s not nice, it’s nasty. It looks like junk and it wastes a lot of plastic now. I’m gonna show you here on my whiteboard. Let me get all the dirt off of that and what? I mean, by that is you may have your gantry perfectly level to the frame. Okay, but for whatever reason, your bed is askew now. This is pretty dramatic, but one of the two things that can happen with. This is that the gantry itself may not be square to that bed first and foremost. You want to make sure that you level the bed and I’ve talked about bed leveling many many times, and if you haven’t seen our first episode on first layer issues regarding this, then you need to go back and watch them well. Put a card up in the corner so that you guys can go back and watch that one first. So this is kind of a continuation of that. So when this happens, you might get great adhesion here, but you’re not gonna get great adhesion here because it thinks that this is level, so even though your beds unlevel, you may start to get a print down, but then, of course it’s going to lift and go all over the place now. How do you fix this well? Your nozzle can be either too close or too far away from the bed, but first and foremost, you want to level that bed, Okay, so level the bed, and once that bed is level, then try and do it again, and if it is level for you, then you may have that problem of the nozzle being too close or too far away, and if that should happen, then you want to just basically readjust that. Heat up the nozzle. Heat up the bed. Make sure that you do a bed level test and you’re going to use just one of those a nice flat sticky note. I found that the sticky notes from 3m are the best way to manually level your bed. They’ve got just the right amount of space between that and the bed and all you’re doing is you’re just getting a little drag if you’re if this is happening, See how I can, I pull the paper between my fingers, but when I go to push it back, it starts to bunch up if that is happening, then you have got too much drag on your nozzle and it’s too close to the bed, but if you can slide it and just feel that nozzle pushing down on the paper just ever so slightly, and you got a little bit of drag, then you’re right in that sweet spot so first thing. Foremost, you want to level that bed? You want to make sure that your x-axi’s is level to your z-axis? And it is also level to the y-axis. Okay, your platform. Secondly, your platform may be warped, and we talked about this on the last episode, and if there’s a hump in the middle, then you want to put tape on the outsides to kind of raise those up a little bit, so that hump is not so prominent. If you’re using a piece of glass on top of your heated bed, glass is usually pretty flat, but sometimes it’s not, and this could certainly knock your glass out of skew because we’re using binder clips to usually hold down our glass, so this could actually cause your glass to bow a little bit because glass does have a little bit of give to it. So if that should happen, just put a little bit of tape on the outside, and now if your bed has a dip in it, and that’s a pretty dramatic dip, and you go to put your piece of glass or buildtak or whatever you have on top, this little dip could show up by being too loose from the nozzle. So how do you fix that well? You put a piece of tape right on top of that hole and or very nearly to the hole and it will push it up just a little bit and that will help with bed adhesion now. A couple other things you want to do with bed adhesion and how to fix them lets. Get into cleaning your bed now. Many people don’t clean their beds. Now you want to clean your bed as best possible. So here’s a couple of things that are going to promote adhesion to your bed. You have hairspray! I don’t use hairspray. Because I find it very messy. It’s tough to clean up that kind of thing, and then there’s glue. Stick glue stick is very easy to get off your heated bed just by warming up a paper towel, a wet paper towel or a wet cloth and just in circular motions, Just like this, you’ll get all of that glue off, and then you just want to clean it with a little bit of alcohol, and that will help to get your surface back down nice and level again, and then while your bed is warm. Put your glue. Stick back on your glue. Stick will certainly level out just a little bit because it does melt ever so slightly with the heat of the bed and it will self level at that point. So I always use glue stick. I never use hairspray. Because it’s well, it’s firm hold. Then it’s unscented. And we don’t want it to be really really holding down. We want and you never know you don’t want that fluffy girly smell in your 3d printing room. So some people use hairspray. But some people don’t. I prefer not to use it. I’d rather use glue stick. I’ve always had the best adhesion with the Elmers glue. Stick the purple brand. This is their washable purple. It goes on purple, but it comes off clear, so when you wet it and of course, get that purple comes back now. One of the other things I wanted to mention here is, and we talked about this A little bit in the last episode about nozzle being too far away and the nozzle being too close to the bed that can promote your print not sticking properly, so if you haven’t yet watched that again, go check the link down below in the description or use that card up here, and it will take you over and watch that video first. It’s very important that you watch that video now. The other thing that can affect your first layer is speed now. The first layer going down far too fast. I’ve heard of people running their printers at up to a hundred and eighty millimeters per second far too fast to be running now. The obvious sign of this is that you’re printing for too fast is when the extruder can’t keep up with the amount of material, it’s coming out of the extruder. And of course you’re gonna get under extrusion. You’ll notice that there’s little blobs on your print bed in that first layer, so it’s moving far too fast. What you want to do is slow that printer down typically. I will print anywhere between 40 and 50 millimeters per second. That’s always been kind of a safe zone for me And by printing a little bit slower, you’ll get that first layer down really nice and really quick. Now you want to check your extrusion extrusion settings as well to ensure you’ve got the proper amount of plastic being extruded now? Some of the signs of this is that the extruder again is not extruding the right amount of filament, so it’s not the it’s not using the right amount of steps to bring that filament out to give you a proper print. Now how you can rectify that if you know how to use? Marlin, you can go in and calculate your steps per millimeter. How many steps the rotation of the motor needs to extrude 100 millimeters now? The best thing to do with that is go to the Purusha calculator, which is online. We’re gonna link to it down below. And you guys can go check that. Make sure that your extruding 100 millimeters. I’m going to show you how to do that at a later time, and we’re going to make sure that that extruder is extruding properly now. Another thing is the temperature. Your print temperature might not be hot enough or it might be too hot. If it’s too hot, it’s gonna really come out of that extruder quite fast and a way to solve. That is just bring the heat down, and if it’s struggling to get that plastic out of the nozzle, then your heat is too low and one way around that is by doing a temperature tower well. Put that in the card right here and you can go back and watch how to do a temperature tower, both in Kirra and in simplified 3d and that should get you right in that sweet zone of what temperature you need for the material that you’re using now, Another reason. Is that your bed temperature, maybe too low now if your bed temperature is too low, then, of course, some materials aren’t going to stick to it. Pla can can stick with no heat to the bed. You just got to make sure you’ve got that little bit of extra squish on it so that it adheres to whatever surface you’re on. It does better when you’ve got a piece of glass and some glue stick, it sticks down really. Well, however, you may have a machine that does not have a heated bed. And if you do then what you want to do. Is you want to get just a little bit closer like, just microns closer to the bed to get that first layer to stick? And if you’re still having problems with that, then you might want to check again the level of your bed. Now if that bed temperature is too low. I usually use about 64 PLA because all the beds that I have are heated beds and my the heated beds that I have will go up to 110 120 very easily now. Another reason that your your prints may not be sticking to your bed is the fact that you have your part cooling fan on and all on the first layer of any print. No matter what the material is. You don’t want to have your part cooling fan on. You want it to go down with the heat that it’s supposed to be going down at so it has a chance to adhere to your sub surface of whatever’s on your printer, whether it be glass. Pei or any of the other materials that are out there like Buildtak. You want to make sure that it is going down nice and smooth and that there is no air blowing on it. Your air should start if you’re using PLA on the second layer, not on the first that way, when it’s coming out of the nozzle, it can very easily stick to the bottom layer or the layer underneath it, and it can also get cooled as it’s coming out now, with other materials such as ABS pet G and some of the other materials that are out there. You don’t want to have part cooling? You want it to cool? Naturally, this way you’ll avoid things like splitting, cracking that sort of thing. Now build plate adhesion is a big thing for for your prints, not sticking to the bed, and there’s several different materials out there And I’ve got a little list here. I’m just want to go through them. Some of the materials out there like there’s. Pei, which we’ve talked about Gara light, which kind of looks like perf boards for electronics. Then you’ve got a built AK or fake TAC or whatever TAC is out there. Fr2 or phenolic sheets and naked glass. Those are pretty much your best substrates. Yes, you can use tape on top of a regular aluminum bed, but I don’t recommend it. I would prefer if you got yourself a piece of glass or something like that. Temporary coatings glue stick. We talked a little bit about that hairspray! Abs juice. Abs juice is a mixture of acetone and ABS particles or ABS plastic, and then you just kind of smear it on. There are other based adhesions like magic Goo. You can try that. Kapton tape, painter’s tape. We talked about sugar salt water. I’ve never tried that myself, But they say that you can use it. But when applying these coatings to your 3d printer. Please please make sure that you don’t overload it. A glue stick will last for a good five six seven prints. Some people have gotten even more prints out of it. Glue stick works very. Well, it’s very inexpensive. You can buy them usually. If you go to an office supply store, you can buy them in a pack of twelve for a much lower price. Hairspray just gets all over everything. I know some people will take their glass outside and give it a spray and then bring it back in some of us. Have our glass adhered to our bed? Using a double-sided tape by 3m that is a heat resistant tape, and it’s really kind of a pain. You got to kind of cover everything around the printer. So you don’t get hairspray on everything else, that’s why. I like glue stick. It’s simple, it’s easy. It’s it’s one of those things that you can use so with that said we’ve got, there’s your tips for getting better adhesion to your bed and making sure that it sticks. The biggest thing is is making sure that all of your axes, your X Y or Y and your z-axis are all square to one another and making sure that you’ve got a properly leveled bed. Okay, so with that said. I want to thank my fantastic team. Jes Corna, Ching, Frank awesome and Brian Baker and my wife, who works behind the scenes to do all the cleaning of the models that I may cut Mr. C. She’s been doing that quite a bit lately, so we got to give her a big thumbs up there. We go thumbs up and now if you got something out of today’s show and you want to support the show, you can certainly go ahead and check out our patreon page at patreonco’m slash the first layer. I want to thank all of my patreon. Without you guys, this show wouldn’t happen now. If you’re not into a monthly commitment by all means, you can certainly go over and if you want to show your support for the show. Buy me a coffee at buy me a coffee calm. I love coffee. Jess loves coffee. We’ve got Frank and Brian. They all love coffee too. So go ahead and check out our buy me a coffee at buy me a coffee. Calm now, the other person. I want to thank for the space that we use here on the first layer is spool 3d dot CA. You know what printer, right printer with Spool 3d dot CA. They’ve got everything that you need from printers to filaments to all the parts and accessories so that you can either build your own printer or just upgrade the certain the current printer that you have now. If you want to get a hold of me, you can send me a letter over at Richard at the first layer. That’s my email address if you questions or anything like that. If you want to send something into the show, you can do that as well and we will show it off for you. If you want it back, you must send us. A self-addressed stamped envelope. Now, the address for that is the first layer at 231 199 40th Street, southeast Calgary, Alberta t2 Z4M 8 So we if you’ve gone to send something in if you are a manufacturer and you’d like to have us review some of your products on the show by all means and get in contact with me again via my email address, Richard at the first layer. So that’s it for today, We’re gonna cover some more topics as we go through the month of September on troubleshooting. Your most common 3d printing problems for now. My friends! Thank you very much for watching the show again. If you are new here hit that subscribe. Button hit that notification. Button share liked this video. If you found, you got something out of it and we will see you next time and remember first and foremost that the first layer is your foundation to a great print. Thanks very much. See again, you.

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