[MUSIC] This is the genuine Purusha. I three mark to winner of make magazine’s best 3d printer of the year. The Mark II needs little introduction. In fact, this 3d printer has proven so popular that Paypal recently froze the accounts of crucial research due to the massive influx of orders with six reviews already on Youtube of this machine, there’s. No doubt that the Mark II is the most talked about 3d printer on the market right now, but does it live up to the hype? Welcome to the maker’s muse review of the genuine. Purusha, I three mark -. Let’s start with a quick overview of the specs and key features of the Mark II. It has a print volume of 250 on the X – 10 on the Y and 200 millimeters on the Z running a heated bed with adhesive Pei film. It comes equipped for the genuine. III, D v6 hotend direct, driven with 1.75 millimeter filament and a zero point four millimeter nozzle. Or you can change that to interment size if you prefer the machine as tested is the assembled version, but it’s also available as a kit which I’ll be covering. At a later date. The design of the Mark 2 may be familiar to some and completely foreign to others being constructed, almost entirely of 3d printed parts, in fact. Busha research runs a humungous print farm to print out all the parts for their printers, and the machine is completely open-source very respectable for a company to go down this route and not stab its community in the back. Makerbot, the LCD and click, will interface, works a treat and you can load G code onto the included SD card or run tethered. If you preferred by interfacing directly with a Rambo Mini control board, thankfully, the upright verticals, which are a critical support member in the ite design, are 6 millimeter coated aluminium, which provides a fast efficacy than laser cut acrylic wood. There’s still more flexed and a fully supported enclosure. Chassis would have, but it’s not that significant overall. I would say the mark 2 has a fragile feel about it, especially during transport fully enclosed machines such as the up Mini 2 I can just chuck into the back of my car without worrying Too much as I. Drive, but when I Drive with the Mark II, I always go a bit more carefully because I had a had to take a special consideration, especially with the LCD, which is only attached to the chassis with two zip ties, zip ties. Yes, and there’s a lot of them, and, yes, for the most part, they do a decent job, though. I’m not too convinced where they used to secure the linear bearings in place on the movement axes. There is a tiny amount of play between them and the printbed, but overall they work. So I can’t fold them too much. Another detailer feels a little bit slapdash. Is the spool holder and again, not really a big deal, but it only works with. Sun browser filaments with non-spectral rolls not being held and some rubbing on the frame. I also found that through constant sliding back and forth. They’ve started to bow slightly unless they’re set. Just right. Most of my printing. I actually now run a tiny, empty spool as a pulley with a 3d printed spool holder behind the machine or on a table and actually works really, really well and takes a mess of the gantry as well and rounding up The hardware side is the power supply. And I mean this. Thank You, Joseph. For enclosing this safely. There is way too. Many printers on the market’s kits are otherwise with exposed mains wiring at some point in the build, the 3d printed cover goes a long way to preventing accidents And it’s very much appreciated. So let’s recap. What we have so far is a good quality i3 but nothing too different to a well-built Chinese clone. Well, this is where the comparisons kind of end as the genuine pressure. I three mark two has automatic everything before your first print. You can run a calibrate. XYZ function to automatically diagnose and correct skewed axes, which honestly is just pure black magic to me. It also features mesh bed leveling a feature. I’ve seen only a few times before each print. It does these by using the induction probe and specially designed calibration points integrated into the Heat Fed PCB, which is super cool. The fine Zetas just is amazing for getting your first layer dialed in and so long as you treat the machine with a bit of respect, It’s pretty much a one-time thing, The only downside. I can foresee here is you may be limited to what print surfaces you can use such as conductive plates, such as the printing Z plate or build tax new magnetic flex plate. You’re most likely to have issues with those. Luckily, the PTI sheet does a great job sticking down parts, although from me, at least they did tend to stick down a bit too well and not self release so occasionally do need to significant tap to pop free my kingdom for a removable print surface, and while I say automatic everything, there isn’t a filament sensor in the stock machine, but adding one seems fairly trivial for slicing. You can use pretty much anything you like. Although just a few days ago, crucial research released their own flavor of slicer, which honestly actually changed the outcome of this review. Somewhat, so lets. Go back to these two test printers these days. I throw the lattice torture cubes at them, and usually a machine will complete them, even if they look kind of terrible. However, when I first tried, I had nothing. But failures on this 3d printer to start with the prints were failing before the lattice portion of the print even started because it was kicking off thermal runaway and killing the print, which was super frustrating. Turns out that the cooling fan on the mark 2 is so powerful that it can actually prevent the hot end from functioning correctly. If you’re printing large flat surfaces, the air just bounces back up, and it cools it down far too quickly naturally. I was putting it 100% fan speed after the first layers. That’s what I’ve done on all my previous machines, and it seems it’s just way too much. Even add stock PLA temperatures your machines as I mentioned earlier have since moved to a 40 watt heat cartridge to combat this and the profiles. I now run! Run the fan and a maximum speed of 85 percent, except for when is during bridging when it will run at 100% with that problem fixed. The next problem was the print was catching on the nozzle and breaking the thin edges of the lattice will curl up as they cooled that into the printer, eventually snapping them. I’m not 100% on what actually causes this, but I suspect it’s due to the highly directional nature of the cooling duct, not calling everything the same. The uniform at same uniform rate, and I’m going to try to printing a modified cooling duct soon to see if I can combat this and see what effect that has. The printer has two power modes, silent and power and man. Do they match their descriptions? I actually slept in the same room with this machine running in silent mode on a carpet, Though I not would not recommend that. But in power high power mode, you can definitely hear it through the whole house. It’s very, very loud, running in silent works most of the time, but if your print is suffering from the killing up issue, you’re more likely to lose steps because you have less talk, so it’s a bit of a roll of the dice. You can, however, change it during the print, as well as all your other parameters like temperatures and flow speeds, speeds flow rates, so that’s also very much appreciate. I did also experience a filament jam. During my test when it was drawl, a filament didn’t go quite as smoothly as I would have liked and I found the process of removing the extruder actually fairly tedious. It looks like the block that holds it in place used to be two parts in the original i3 but now it’s moved to a single piece for ease of assembly in the Mark II. It’s no issue during assembly. I’m sure you just slide the PTFE tube through the top hole. Once the actual extrude is in place, but to remove it, you can’t get access to that catch, and you have to sort of forcefully. Yank it out of the block now. I am makers Muse, destroyer of Machines And while there may be a proper way to do this at midnight one night. I that was the only solution I could see. Once things were cleared. However, it went back together perfectly following the excellent online assembly manual and photos to complete my tests on the machine. I wanted to print something huge with loads of parts, so I settled on this awesome design for the Ripper weapon from Fallout 3 by Daniel Lily Green on my mini factory. It’s got loads of parts. Some of which needed some serious supports to work correctly, so I developed actually a custom profile in simplify 3d based heavily off the one sent to me by spanner hands and the supports. I use we’re super dense and strong with actually crossing over each other at 90 degrees, and it worked amazingly well. The print overall was 200 microns and 30 to 60 millimeters per second, depending on the part and I am super stoked to the result. All the parts are dimensionally accurate and they fit together perfectly. This has no glue or anything. It’s just held together with press. Fitz and its great design but also shows great accuracy off the printer. So one of my final thoughts on that genuine. Purusha a3 Mark II. Well, at this stage, I print it loads of things in a huge range of filaments and huge range of settings and the pressure III definitely is a great machine to get going, but it’s not perfect. Prints can still fail just like every other machine. I’ve ever tested, and it’s pretty evident that your print settings heavily affect that outcome. It’s also worth keeping in mind. The price point six hundred ninety nine dollars for the kit and 899 US for the assembled machine plus shipping. This is an expensive i3 but it should be. It’s the original. You definitely can get cheaper such as the one how I three. But don’t expect the same level of quality all the same support as Joseph himself provides. He actually hold me off for not going straight to him about some issues. I was talking about on Twitter, so I guess. I’m actually used to most manufacturers not caring about their users. So Joseph is different, Definitely different in this case, so thanks for watching and a huge thanks to Joseph for setting this machine as well as the kit version to review, we’ve been in between studios. So once we settle in. I’ll be cracking on that. And full disclosure. This machine was provided by pressure research free of charge for the purpose of making a review. No money has changed hands and all opinions expressed are my own. If you enjoyed this review, maybe check out some of our other videos. We do 3d printing reviews, tutorials and tips and tricks. I’d love to have you on board. Happy printing.