Monster Hunter 3d Print | I 3D Printed the Giant Sword from Monster Hunter! – Jawblade Build Tutorial

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I 3D Printed the Giant Sword from Monster Hunter! - Jawblade Build Tutorial


So I 3d printed this whole thing. [MUSIC] This is the Jawblade featured in a variety of monster hunter games and more specifically the new monster Hunter movie now full disclosure. I did play monster Hunter World. I never actually finished it because I ended up moving around the time I was playing it and I never picked it back up, but I do remember this thing looking around. I’m sure you can see. I like printing these really big swords and weapons that have no right being 3d printed and again I’ve kind of forgotten about this until images. The movie started surfacing. And I saw Tony jaw and Mila kind of holding the sword and I was just like. Oh, my god! I need that in my collection right now. I need to find this, so I went to. CG trader, found the files and it came out pretty cool. This might be my favorite prop I’ve printed. I might even like it more than my battle. Damaged iron man helmet. I absolutely love how this thing came out. So unlike the menus in the games. I’m actually going to show you guys how to. I made this how I painted it. How I 3d printed it? How I arranged it on the printer and all that. Can you fit it on something like an ender probably should print this on something like a cr10s. It’s specifically cut for a 300 by 300 by 400 bed, and it was about 13 prints. I’m also going to show you guys how I put a metal rod inside of it for strength. Because what’s the point of a giant sword like this? If you can’t actually hold it out before we roll into it. A couple things I just again. I want to say how proud of this I am. Um, in the video, I didn’t get the best footage of the final weathering process, but we’re going to talk about that. And I promise I’ll be able to explain to you guys what I actually did for that. And hopefully you can go and make your own now. I know a few of you are probably already wondering. Why would you 3d print this? Why wouldn’t you just make this out of foam or some other type of median? There doesn’t seem a point to print this, but you have to remember, it’s a, you know, trade-off for time, I didn’t have to do any of the texture. I didn’t have to do any of the details. They all printed so I was able to spend more time painting it and getting it to look as nice as I feel. I could, and you can definitely do this with foam. I just wanted to approach it like this. And by no means, did it seem any harder or any easier? It’s just a different way of doing it. The sword is approximately 68 inches tall, pretty much exactly my height. I’m Tom cruise for life and roughly weighs 3.4 kilograms and that’s including a metal rod for reinforcement or just over seven pounds. So that’s not too bad. Basically, the metal part and the handle was printed in about a 15 infill, and then the jaw blade itself was printed in a five percent gyroid and fill to save weight. Now, if you hop on CG trader and search jawblade, it’s literally the first one that pops up. It’s a beautiful model and you will notice a little bit of a difference from the movie itself. The movie doesn’t actually have this blue gem. That was a design choice. I decided to go with from the game. The one of the movie seems a little longer and skinnier and the one from the game is a lot kind of snubbier and wider, so it’s only 15 and I think it was money. Well spent and the way that they cut. It up was just perfect now. I actually didn’t change the scale of this at all. This was about five foot eight about 68 inches from the files and after evaluating some movie fit photos and seeing how Tony Jaw’s hand fits in the handle and all of that. It did seem to be about the same size like I said me and him are the same height, so just printing it. 100 scale worked pretty nicely and you can see right here that the teeth are also shaped, just a little bit differently and again it does look a little longer now once you download the files and actually get them, you’ll see that they’re actually numbered 0 1 0 2 0 3 always through 11 and they even include a picture in the files on the website where it tells you exactly. What each part is I have since gone and cut them up myself and added a couple holes and, uh, slots for metal rods and I want to show you guys how I do that. But first let’s take a look at the files themselves now. All the files are pretty standard again. These do fit on something like your creality cr10s or 300 by 300×400 that’s the way they were cut, but you can feel free to print them on anything bigger. I actually printed this whole big center part over here on my Macs and it printed flawlessly. Everything I printed was done in Sunlu PLA, plus at about 215 temperature. Because that’s just what I have. My printer’s dialed in at now. This one is kind of oriented to the side, so you can print it on a cr-10s. All you’d have to do is just kind of change it and rotate it. If you want to print it on something bigger like an under five plus or a cr-10 Max or an s4 and s5 and I wouldn’t recommend really changing the orientation of these, Just so the spikes or the teeth print properly. It does make the quality a lot better. You also really need to make sure that you don’t have any weird lifting. If you’re having poor adhesion problems on your printer, what’s gonna happen is when these parts lift and you start to get some weird gaps while it’s printing. When you go to actually meet and fuse everything up together, you’re gonna have large gaps between the parts. This is one project or part that I just couldn’t risk that lifting because there’s so much detail. PLA welding in between those cracks would just be an absolute nightmare, and you’d see them, so these parts really really needed to come out good, so they would butt up together properly. The handle and the jaw part really printed, just just fine. I don’t think there’s really absolutely any issues with that, but you can see here. I have files for both handles. Because these are the ones I went and put metal rods through and you can see right here. If I go in there underneath it, you can see. There’s a hole for a rod there and a hole for a rod here, and this one travels all the way through because this end actually slots into the bottom of the large handle here up in here and inside here, I also have a hole for a metal rod. So if you go and grab the file and drop it in the mesh mixer? Come over to edit select, add two and you can change. How everything you know is actually moved and manipulated. You’re gonna need to play around with this to figure out exactly what’s. What works for you? But basically, you’re gonna wanna pick one of the directions so in this case. I wanna do this along. I believe the z-axi’s maybe it’s the Y there. It is, so I want to do this along. The Y-axis. And then I’m going to drag these dots around the face, and this is going to tell me the direction on the y-axi’s that I actually want to cut the hole, so we’re going to center this. The best we can, and if there’s a better way to do this feel free. This is the way I figured out how to do. This and I was totally okay with it so we can go to the bottom. We can center this right about there. And then this other dot here is for the height, so depending on how high you drag this up, it’s going to stop the rod from going all the way through, or it’s going to take it completely through. So that’s what we want on this handle. We want the rod to go all the way through and you can pick the radius now. This is important, remember radius versus diameter, so I’m going to be using a 10 millimeter rod, so I need to have to make sure I have a five millimeter radius on this tube. You can come over here and adjust the radius, and as long as your math is right, you’ll be fine. You can actually input whatever you want, so we’ll do five that looks centered and we’ll hit accept, so I didn’t get that dead on. You can already see it’s a little cocked, but I think we’re okay, and that’s probably how mine came out anyway. So once you have the whole cut, you can go into export. Save the file and then you can drop it into Acura. Now the same method can be applied for this. Except you’re not going to actually drag that hole all the way up through the through the part so again we’re going to go and select our Y axis. We’re going to drag this one to the center, so we can go up here to the bottom and zoom in the best we can, so that looks. Ah, it looks pretty good right there, and then we’re gonna use the dot on the side to actually pull how high we want this to come up, so we can bring it all the way up, which I definitely didn’t do, so we’re gonna stop it. We’re gonna make sure it still has some bite in there, but we’ll stop it a little bit before, and then we’re still at five and that’s it. We’ve got it out of the hole and again That’s a 10 millimeter hole. Uh, so you’ll be able to actually put that rod in there and you can make this as small or big as you want. You can put a 20 millimeter rod through there. You can get rid of the handle all together and match your own. That’s totally fine, too. So what I did after post print is? I realized that there was no good way to get the metal rod in there and I will show you after we’ve, uh, printed it and kind of go through that. I went and cut the cap of this. Uh, handle off at the end here this way I was able to screw it on, and once we have the print and sword in hand and I can explain better what this is supposed to look like and how? I put the rod in there now as you can see, you are going to be a little bit hard-pressed to fit this on something like an ender three. I don’t know if this is something I would print on an ender, but by all means you can try. If you’re gonna have to go and cut this, especially this main body, you can use mesh mixer and use the plain cut feature, But personally, I like using slicer a little bit more, just for these really brute force cuts. So if you go ahead and drop it in the slicer, we’re going through all the programs today and you select cut. It’ll give you this preview. Now immediately turn off show preview. Slicer sometimes likes to crash and it can be overworked. It’s not the best program ever, but it’s really good at making cuts. You’re going to cycle through Xyz. Pick the direction you actually want to make the cut and I think I’m just going to show you guys how to cut it. In half you want to keep the upper and the lower part, and you’re going to move the slider up and down to the point. You want now say you want to cut it directly in half? If it’s it’s 349 millimeters tall, you can just do some quick math. Make sure that it’s the right size, So what we are. At 150 It’s almost 350 so 100 175 is about in the middle right there now. I’m not going to want to put it through this detail, so we’re going to want to lift it up. Just a little bit more. Maybe get it as close as possible, and it’s in the, uh, that’s in the little rivet’s. We’ll move this over, okay, right there, so that’s not going through any of the little bolts or rivets. It’s not going through the detail and you’re going to hit perform cut. Now you have two perfectly cut objects that are actually fixed and saved, they don’t. They have the roofs. They were repaired. Already, so you can go ahead and get rid of one export it. Save it, Ctrl Z. Undo it, bring it back. Delete it, export it now. You have two separate files ready to print. You can see this fits on a cr-10’s just fine. Now you’ll see in the next couple bits of the video. This didn’t really use any supports at all. It used a little bit in like the holes. I cut and some on the bottom, but you’re really not going to burn too much support material printing this. It was arranged and set up and cut to actually fit without wasting all this tons of support and needing all this material. The only thing I didn’t like about the files is it didn’t. Include a full 100 built jaw blade. There’s no full file for it. Unfortunately, so you can’t go and make your own cuts as you would. I’m sure you could reach out to the modeler. If they’re active, I’m not sure maybe they still have the original STL that they can send you, but for the sake of this, it printed just fine. Unfortunately, my Gopro was acting up at the time, so I wasn’t able to get any time lapse of everything printing, but I was able to get some footage of the post print as I was taking them off what they looked like on the printer and as I was assembling it. So like I said, before all the metal parts I printed anywhere between 10 to 15 infill, especially the handle part. That was definitely a 15 gyro. Infill this. I believe I did a 10 number five and six and then the rest of the jaw blade itself was done at about a five percent infill. But again you want to make sure you have good layer adhesion, because if you have four layer adhesion while you’re sanding and pressing and gluing everything, you’re gonna actually kind of crunch and crush it, so make sure your print coming out as a good quality before you kind of jump into this type of thing. This is a big print, even on my six printers. It did take about five four or five days for me to print everything. I did. Go slow because of all the detail. But it paid off in the end. This was the first part I had off the printer and it printed absolutely beautifully. This was done on my cr-10s again With Sunblue PLA plus and even with my 0.6 millimeter nozzle to save some time, the details all printed perfectly followed by another little small part. There was some stringing between some of the teeth, but I’m okay with that up close. You can really see the texture and design and how nice these little foam, bolts and nuts printed. This is one of the only bits that used support and it was just the little rivet bolts on the back of the handle and the top part of the handle printed nice and smooth on my under five pluses again with 0.6 millimeter nozzle As I’m watching this, I’m remembering that the middle handle part I actually printed in Esun PLA plus. It was the first roll I got and it printed just as good as my sunglue. I was really blown away by it, and this took a little bit longer than my the other parts because I just it was such a big, large part, and I wanted to make sure the detail was good, especially on the crest, so I think I used a 1.16 layer height on this one with a 0.4 millimeter nozzle and you can see that you can see that beautiful gyroid and fill coming out there. You can even see where I added the slot for the metal rod hiding right in the middle of the infill, and this is the other part of the blade that just took a little bit longer because it was so big, but again it fits on everything, uh, cr-10s and up a day or two later and the main body was done. I don’t remember how long this really took, but I was more than happy with the results and it was worth the wait. You can see right here. The only bits of support that came out of the print itself. It was just a little cylinder, holding up the insides, and then I had to actually reach in there with a pair of tweezers and a screwdriver to get the little plastic rod out of there. The first round of prints came out beautiful, and you can see just where everything connects and butts up together. I did like the colors I was printing this in. It made the blade Look a lot funnier and sillier before I actually painted it. I kind of wish I had done the whole thing in pink. It just would have been fun to take a picture of and here is everything printed and assembled this just the more and more I printed and the one that was finally put together just seeing everything just made it that much more real and more exciting for me to build this. [MUSIC] You can see clearly here where all the seams were and I had already gone and pla welded it with my soldering iron. I do have a tutorial on that. You just have to be really careful, Especially when this level of detail and texture exists in the print. You really have to be creative with how much you push in the soldering iron and I did have to rely a lot on glue this time because I couldn’t bury the soldering iron into the actual print to get it to fuse properly. So so here you can see where I cut the handle off and ran the metal rod through because the entire handle was oblong. I couldn’t screw the whole handle into the main body by itself. I had to run the metal rod through the entire print once it was all glued and assembled together, and then I just capped it off with this little end because it still had the slot cut out for it for the metal rod. So unfortunately, my dimensional accuracy on my prints isn’t perfect, especially from using the 0.6 millimeter nozzle, so a lot of the pegs that printed on the back of the blade that helps slot it into the handle didn’t quite fit, so I had to do some trimming. I had actually cut some of the pegs off and I was able to fuse it together again with a lot more glue and a little bit of the soldering iron. I was able to salvage enough of the pegs, where it is nice and sturdy, and I don’t have to worry about it, so just be cognizant of it. If you do print it and everything’s not quite fitting. You can use a soldering iron and kind of bore the holes out. That’s what I was able to do here so they did slot together again. You don’t need all of them. This worked just fine for me, so don’t be afraid to actually hack and cut some of this stuff up and it’s not the end of the world. If it doesn’t fit so once everything was printed, it was time to move everything to the garage and get some primer. Get some sanding. Get some paint on it. I do have some good footage of the process, But the audio was a little in, so I’m just going to kind of voice over and explain what I was doing. Luckily, my old paint booth. I had a lot of room for this sword. I was able to hang something off the roof with a bungee cord, and I just started going at it with some krylon primer. Now it’s not actually primer. It’s this camouflage spray paint, but it dries in like, five minutes. It’s amazing stuff. I have so much of it and it was cheap, so I just doused the whole blade in it. I did a couple coats until I was happy with it. And then I moved on to the next couple stages. [MUSIC] This is where I really started to see some of the lines and the fusion spots that I had neglected. So I made sure that. After during the priming stage, I went through with a little bit of wood filler. I was able to fill these in just a little bit. I didn’t want to lose any of the texture, so I had to be really careful with how much I actually applied now. Some of you guys might be mad. I didn’t really film most of the painting process. I had kind of gotten into a vibe and I was just going for it. This entire thing was painted in about four to five hours and it came out really, really, really cool. Sometimes I just like building stuff, and I just neglected the camera, but I think like. I said I can explain to you guys. The process that I did here You can see those, uh, detail lines or the fusion lines really prominent. Just the light really just pouring on them, that’s. The only, uh, thing I didn’t like about this this footage. I did go back, sand them down. Clean them up and rinse repeat. And they look much better now, but you can definitely see where the four parts joined between the teeth. [MUSIC] The handle itself was painted with this autumn thrustonium automotive enamel. It’s a really nice metallic similar to what I used on my iron man suit, and it laid on beautifully. It actually goes on pretty thick and covers up some of the layer lines, even after that priming process. I think it was a good sheen and pretty close to the movie. I did later go and hit it with some rubbing buff and a little bit of weathering and I did paint the details on the crest and the nuts and bolts. Now the four paints you see here are what I used to weather and paint everything. I went back over it with that rust-oleum camouflage. And then I dusted it with this rust-oleum high heat copper. Now I know it’s weird to use like a high metallic on something That’s supposed to look old and dirty, but I was able to go back over it later with a matte spray and dirty the whole blade up and you can see where I hit it with the metallic, and it is still a little bit shiny here, but as I went through the process, what I was doing was dusting it with the matte clear coat and rubbing my dirty hands all over it. I was touching the dust and the dirt all over the paint Booth, just wiping my hands on all of it That was on the ground and rubbing on the blade and actually fusing it to the clear coat and it was making everything a nice, dirty mat and getting rid of a lot of the metallic. I did this a couple times, and this was some active, weathering that really helped darken the blade up and give it a lot of dimensionality. I was also using a mix of sandpaper and spraying a little bit of paint into a tin and brushing it into the dark spots to really build up those layers and also cut down the layers of paint that I built up on it to give it so much more color and dimension. After I was happy with it, I brought it back inside and started to hand paint some of the details. I did all the nuts and bolts that were running along the blade and a nice chrome and I hand painted the crest. I was pretty happy with the silver, but later on, I went and did a metallic blue over top of that just to make it a little bit more accurate to the game versus the movie, a couple other little final details. I want to talk about again. Here’s where that cap is, and I just kind of cut it off, and I think with a hacksaw and it screws right back on, and you’re really none the wiser. I’d also gone and hand cut some leather now. This is literally my first time doing any type of leather wrap like this. It looks kind of janky. It is kind of janky, but I think the whole thing is kind of supposed to look like that. So I’m alright with it. I will go back and try to match this up my first attempt, I’m not that sad about it. Now since this handle was a separate part and this handle was a separate part. I did go in here with my soldering iron and weld those bits together, and you can kind of see some remnants of it, But the blade is supposed to look kind of hammered and messed up. So I’m not too worried about those little weld lines. This was fused together. This was fused together here, and then it slots into there again. A lot of glue. Here’s that nice blue crest and the metallic blue over the silver definitely does make it shine. I am pretty happy with that. I’m glad I did this over first and you can see where I did. All these rivets. There are some on the back now, one spot. I did miss because I just forgot about this hole in here. There’s a weld line right in there that I thought was getting covered up, but it’s not, so I am gonna have to go back and sand that down and hit it with some wood filler to, uh, get rid of that. There was a seam here, but it kind of got lost in the detail on the sides. But I totally forgot that that gets exposed. I did hit it with a little bit of darker, whole red, and I took this and was kind of brushing it into the holes and wiping it away to kind of darken the deeper spots to give it even more depth and add more color to it. And I think it turned out pretty good now. The one thing I didn’t mention in the video was making the tip of this white and spraying these white too, and that was with a flat white rust-oleum primer because it was, it almost looks like bone. It’s supposed to be, you know, it’s a jaw. It’s supposed to be bone, so I sprayed these and actually sprayed them so much that they were just dripping, and it did fill in the layer lines pretty good. I think I got it to look like just gross teeth and just over sprayed on these to make it seem like they were coming out. I’m guessing that the teeth are bolted into the jaw, which is kind of odd. I figured there would be part of it and then I missed it at an angle. I was dusting the blade here with the flat white, getting it to spray and just kind of stay on the blade itself without spreading around here and then just dusting everything. It’s a fun process. If you’ve never done any type of weathering like this, you could somebody could do this with an airbrush and probably, you know, Blow me out of the water, but I don’t have an airbrush. So this is what I was limited to, and I’m very happy with the results that almost does it for this video. Guys this, uh? This turned into one of my favorite props. As again as I said, as it was coming together, I felt more and more in love with this, and I don’t know where I’m gonna put it on the wall, but I’m gonna find room for this. I want this on display. I am very, very proud of this thing. It wasn’t a complicated build. You have something like a cr-10’s or bigger. You can print it. If you have an ender, you can print it. It’s just going to take a little bit more. It’s definitely a unique piece for sure. Everybody, I’ve shown this just looks at it like, wait. What and the people who know where it’s from are like? Wow, that’s! Uh, that’s awesome. Um, it is light again about seven pounds so you can wield it. If you didn’t want to actively cosplay with this and bring this to cons, print it at a higher infill. Maybe you can’t use a metal rod. Depending on the cons, you go to some. Don’t allow that so you might have to experiment with some. Maybe, like carbon fiber dowels or wooden dowels? You guys, I’m sure can figure it out. Hopefully I was able to shine some light on the, uh, the process of this and give you guys some insight and answers into how you can go about making this the same way I made. This is the same way I made my Buster Swords. It’s the same way I made my dragon slider, it’s the same way. I make all of these things. Uh, the metal rods for reinforcement are really a godsend to these big old props and 3d printing is just it’s evolving every day. So if you’re new to the hobby and you want to tackle something like this, I implore you, go for it. It was a lot of fun to do. If you guys haven’t already if you can subscribe, especially if you’re new to the channel. Uh, this is my first monster Hunter prop. So I might have, you know, pulled some new people into the channel, and you might be looking around thinking, man. I want to make some of that stuff. This might not be the last thing for monster hunter. I make while I was looking through CG trader. There are a lot of cool designs out there and, uh, stay tuned for that. I’m I’m optimistic. If you guys are coming from another medium of cosplay or prop banking and you want to learn more about 3d printing, I implore you to go check out the discord. There’s a link for that down below. It’s a 1500 member discord, completely free, 3d printing cosplay. Noobs, pros the works. Go check it out. I promise you’ll learn something. If you guys have any comments or questions about anything, you saw that it didn’t cover. Drop a comment down below, Hit me up on Instagram. I’ll do my best to answer all of them. Thank you so much for watching guys. I really appreciate it. You guys have a good day. I’m gonna go hunt some neighborhood cats and scare some kids. [MUSIC] And maybe scare some kids. So you guys have a good day. How I don’t even want to consider the logistics of that one.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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