Making Action Figures With 3d Printer | Diy Action Figures With 3d Printing!

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Diy Action Figures With 3d Printing!


What’s up guys? So being visual effects? Artists were really big into 3d scanning. We’ve been using it a ton in the past for rag dolls and models and things we need for various visual effects shots, but very recently we’ve started taking this skill and instead of applying it on screen, we’ve been applying it off screen by doing three scans and 3d printing. So in this video. We’re going to show you guys how to make your own action figures whether you have 3d modeling skills or not in order to make your own action figure. There’s three basic things that you need. The first is a copy of occipital Schenectady. We’ll get into the differences later. The second thing you need is an Xbox Kinect. Make sure it is one with a normal USB port and not a proprietary Xbox port. That’s crucial for getting it to work with your PC. The third thing you’ll need is either a shapeways account or a 3d printer of your own. If you want to go on the cheap here. I’d recommend a shapeways account as it will. Save you a few thousand dollars. Using this process, you can make everything from full colored miniatures. You see here a little bit more like an action figure to very small miniatures, which can be used for various role-playing games such as Dungeons & Dragons and we’ll show you what to do for both after you’ve done all your gear together, you’ll want to open your scanning application If you’re a beginner without 3d modeling skills, you’re going to want to use. Kinect Kinect allows you to go from scanning to cleaning up the model to printing the model through Shapeways. All in the same application, no other skills are required, however, if you are versed in 3d modeling, I highly recommend using reconstruct me reconstruct me gives you a little bit More detail to work with. However, more cleanup work is required before you start scanning, There’s a couple considerations. You want to be aware of the? Kinect has two cameras on it. One is an infrared camera. That’s is depth and 3d space. The other one is a normal camera that captures color, but in order to use these properly, you need a certain amount of space about a 10 to 15 foot radius generally around your subject, do not wear anything that’s reflective because the bouncing light rays off this reflective material that you might be wearing will confuse the camera and confuse the depth and screw up your 3d model. Natural sunlight has a lot of infrared frequencies in it and since the infrared camera, unconnect uses those to gauge depth that will also start throwing off your scan in your scanning program. You want to make sure that you’ve set your scanning area? You’re scanning box to be as close in to that person as possible to maximize the resolution of the scan. All right, so I’m turning the monitor around, so I can see it while I’m scanning. I’ve got a USB extension so I can walk around and have a little more freedom to move here and looks like our scanning area is pretty solid here, so hold perfectly still control your breathing going in every nook and cranny here. You want to remember to go down and look up or go up at the top of the head? Tops of hands be very carefully. Go behind them. Don’t trip over the cable. Our first scan of the model is done. There’s still a few small errors in it, but that’s okay, because in Schenectady can clean that stuff up, boom. I’m going to fill some holes on that done. So there’s no more holes. I’m also going to colorize it. In case we wanted to print this with color, and now this is going to go back through and take all the color data from the camera and make that into a texture boom. It’s a bowl texture here. Wow, look at that! How sweet is that looks pretty sweet? Actually, our last thing we want to do before imprint this as you can see, there’s still a lot of ground in the shot here. We don’t want to print the entire ground plane. So what you’d want to do there and connect is you’d want to crop that out and it’s pretty easy to just quickly orbit around. Select the stuff. You don’t want so the last step here is if you are using skin. Ech, you can simply just click on this share feature put on the print Shapeways 3d print and log in with your shape boy’s account boom and from there. All you got to do is type it in you. Scale it and print it out. So now that we’ve done our connect person, we’re going to show you the reconstruct me version. This is slightly more high detail and much better when you’re trying to make a figurine, which is super super super tiny and so the reason. Adam is standing with his hands out like this is because later on because we’re 3d modeling, experts were gonna be throwing a model de sword into his hands, because as you can see when you’re scanning, it’s hard to hold perfectly still for 30 seconds and having high detail objects such as a sword or something thin, there’s a natural like wobble and Shake to those objects. It’s very difficult for the scanner to catch that, and also because it. Yeah, exactly a sword is very reflective, – bad idea for scanners and that one is super solid, actually, and just with the tiny bit of cleanup. There were good to go. It’s freaking amazing, so as you’ll see on first import into your 3d program of choice that we have similar issues as we didn’t connect. I will go in to the vertices of the piece here, and you can just quickly. Select them all and delete the ground plane. It’s good to select all your elements. Deselect the thing that you want to keep and hit the lead, because sometimes there’s mysterious, random little points out there and I’ll freak out the 3d printer as you can see. This is now Adam on his own. There is no color, no texture, but we don’t need that where we’re going because on the detail level that we’re going to be printing at. We’re going to paint these on our own. The last step you want to do is use a modifier that will fill the holes up. You want to use a modifier in 3DS? Max called cap holes if you’re not using 3DS, Max. I’m sure there is a equivalent one in your program. The only thing you have to do from there is scale it to the size. You want to print it at if you’re making a miniature for Dungeons and Dragons like this about a inch and a half high. If you’re making a miniature just for yourself, it can be any size, but just be aware bigger gets the more expensive It gets. He’s actually going to model a 3d cape in and have his figure actually being held up by the Cape Model. It’s gonna be kind of cool, reminds me. Max Payne. Maybe read the first one. Yeah, reading constantly. Girls sing. That was sweet. Look like just a little tweaked knee on the legs. Now, actually playing smaller, that’s pretty solid. I don’t think I’ve learned something from this small introduction into the world of 3d scanning and 3d printing. If you guys want to try this out, I highly recommend trying out either skin act or reconstruct me, depending on your skill level, and I highly highly recommend using shapeways as a 3d printing source because of the vast amount of materials they have. If you guys have any questions about 3d printing or applications leave them in the comments below or hit us up on Twitter at corridor digital. Thanks for watching.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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