[MUSIC] Welcome to lethal engineering, the WS show on the Internet. I was perusing thingiversecom recently and came across this model for a 3d printed kylo Ren mask. I thought it was cool and decided to start printing. All eight pieces on my prion. You see, are ten. These pieces took between eight and ten hours each to print, yeah. I printed all of these parts with the 20 millimeter brim. I found with this CR 10 that if I use a large brim like that, I don’t have any misprints. So this is the final piece of the kylo. Ren mask. And it’s all done printing. We can snap that off so yeah, now! I’ve got all of the eight pieces completed, and now I’ll just need to glue them all together and start sanding [Music] [Applause] [Music]. This piece right here is a mirror image of this other piece right here. However, it was a lot easier to clean up this one than this one because I increased the overhang angle. I have an overhang angle of 70% on this one and an overhang angle of 80% on this one. So what this piece had a lot less supports, which made it a lot easier to clean up so now. I’m gonna sand down all of these parts with a 100 grit sandpaper before I glue them together. Some use the Dremel to clean up some of these more mouth, deform spots [Music]. So I have all these pieces sanded down and now I’m going to go ahead and try to glue them all together. Bom Bom Bom! So now I need to glue all these pieces together and my idea is that I can draw perpendicular lines across this flooring tile here, and then I can align the pieces based off of those two perpendicular lines so that I make sure all the pieces are square against each other [Music]. Hi, Kiwi! This guy sits right about there, and this guy says yeah. I went together pretty well query together. The bottom plants from the are horrendous didn’t cancer as we speak. How does it look? Bom pom pom pom pom. I’m gonna go through and friction, weld. All these seams, you friction world by taking like a dremel tool putting a little bit of the filament in it, and then just running it along the scene actually had to install a smaller collar in this Dremel to hole the filament because the filament is 1.75 millimeters, which was too small for the existing collar in the dremel. So I finished friction welding. All of this seems on the helmet and I’m gonna go through with this 3m acro green and fill in some of the bigger chunks that I couldn’t fill in with the friction welding. Oh, and I’ve never used this before by Assad in another video. So I figured I’d give it a shot, so I put that in some of the scenes and it made a big mess, but it does seem to fill the cracks pretty. Well, so maybe I just need to get better at using it, so I’m gonna go ahead and apply the XTC 3d to the print, hopefully to smooth out all the surfaces in different finish. I’ve never used it before, but I read the instructions and it doesn’t sound too difficult. So it’s 12 hours later. This did not turn out as well as I was hoping still has really rough surface to it actually probably rougher than before. I applied the coating, sanding it down kind of smoothed it. And now if you has an abrasive feel to it. I think there’s two reasons why that could have happened one either. I didn’t clean off the piece completely. After sanding it leaving a whole bunch of you know, dust and residue on it or two. I didn’t follow the instructions for mixing the XTC 3d correctly. There’s a part in the instructions that I missed where you’re supposed to premix Part B before using shake the container vigorously. I wish that I included that on this. Part B bottle may be in some big lettering, But I yeah, I missed that so I will try applying a second coat. I think I’ll use all light 220 grit, sandpaper on this before to smooth it out a little bit, and then I’ll apply the second coat. There are certain parts of the print that turned out really well where I had a thicker layer of the XTC 3d It is really smooth so that could be another process. You, it’s just that. I didn’t apply it thick enough, and you know what one standing past with the 220 grit sandpaper is really smooth than that out. It’s making a big difference. The finish is now pretty good with using that extra C3D, so I’m gonna go ahead and take some filler primer. Paint the mask and we’ll see how it turns out, so I’ve added a couple of coats of the primer filler and sanded them down, and this is what I’m left with. It’s certainly not perfect, but thankfully Kylo Ren’s mask has a lot of defects to it. I’m gonna go ahead and spray paint it black. I don’t think there’s a lot. I could do now to fix it, so I’ll just put up with whatever I get with this one and improve on future prints, so I put on two layers of black paint onto this helmet. It’s not gonna go through and I’m gonna tape up around the front part here along certain lines so that I can spray the chrome accents on the front. I’ve got this very thin tape here. I believe it’s a quarter of an inch in width that I’ll use to make the fine details. I’ve got it all taped up now, and I’m gonna go spray the chrome on, so I got done. Adding a coat of silver typed Romish to the helmet. Let’s see what our finished product looks like. So the silver paint turned out pretty well. What I’m gonna do next is I’m gonna cut out a piece of smoked acrylic to make kind of a eyes shield here in the movie. The mask has kind of like a mesh finish across the eyes, so this won’t be completely screen accurate, but it’ll probably be the quickest and easiest solution. [MUSIC] [Music] [Applause] sitting downstream of the dremel was probably not the smartest way to cut it. So what I’m going to do next Is I’m going to heat this up and try to bend it to be the shape of the mask. I really need to get a heat gun because my wife doesn’t consider for her hair dryer to be a power tool [Applause] that’s not working at all, lets. Try something else, all right, So the idea with this setup is that the a crook will start to become more malleable and it’ll. Bend and hopefully. Bend around the pot. So that ended up working a lot better than I thought it would. They got the oven up to about 250 degrees, and that just melted straight to the or the whole day itself. I still need a tighter bed on this, so I guess I need to find a smaller clock. So what I ended up working out in the end Is I placed the piece of acrylic on a baking sheet, Got it really warm and malleable in the oven, and then once it was to the point where it was kind of starting to SAG, I then pressed it into the helmet to get the perfect shape. So this is the final result, so it’s actually got its multiple contours to it to fit Really well in the helmet now. I’m going to glue the eye shield into the helmet overall. I’m really pleased with how this turned out. There are a lot of man-hour’s that went into printing this and putting it together, but it’s cool to say that. I made it in the future. I plan on taking what I learned, making this helmet and using it to make an entire collection of Star Wars helmets. If you like this video, then you also enjoy some of my other videos. You can also subscribe down below to be notified about all of my future projects. I’ve got some cool things in the pipeline and plan on producing 20 videos in the next 52 weeks. Thanks for watching.