How To Use Dual Extruders | Dual Extrusion Guide: Cura, Simplify3d, Ideamaker & Slic3r

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Dual Extrusion Guide: Cura, Simplify3d, Ideamaker & Slic3r


This is a dual extrusion guide for both design and slicing and all of the most popular pieces of slicing software. [MUSIC] [Music] recently I reviewed the Gtech 8nm and I found it had amazing potential, but not without some little niggling problems. I’ve been putting some time into designing and learning how to slice, so I can make my own dual extrusion models instead of just the ones of the internet. Now, jewel extrusion requires specific knowledge. Depending on the makeup of your printer, there are two popular types. The first is like the GTECH, a 10 M. And that is to have two extruders and a single shared nozzle and other printers traditionally have two extruders and two separate nozzles. The following is a summary of how that works the problems that are presented when it comes to 3d printing and also the solutions. Here is a setup we have on the GTECH. A 10 M is dual extruder and single nozzle as you can see when we fade it the to pizza filament mix inside the nozzle and come out the hot end. If we were to run that at 50% of each, we can actually color mix now. Clearly, if we only we’re on one extruder, we’re going to get 100% of that color and 100% if we run the other extruder, the trouble is when we want to transition from one extruder to the other as you can see, it pushes the old one through before the new one is extruded. You should be familiar with this from every time You change color in your nozzle As the new one comes through, it pushes through a little bit of the old one, and it takes a little bit of time for the color to completely transition. This is a prime block every time it changes color, it comes over and excludes a layer, so the filament can change as you can see in this example here from one to the other. If you get this right, it will give very clean separation In this example here. It’s not quite big enough block, so it doesn’t have enough time. And therefore the color bleeds instead of being a clear separation between the white and the gold. Okay, so we know we need a priming block or tower if we’re sharing a nozzle, but what if we’ve got a machine? With two separate hot ends to go with each extruder? The other most popular design is dual extruders and dual separate nozzles. You have to set the offset in the firmware and the filament path is always completely separate in between when you extrude 100 cent of one or the other, they don’t affect each other. There’s no mixing at all, but the trouble is when you’re extruding with one. The other one is always boozing and when this using extruder is needed again, well, that boozing is end up on the surface of the model. I don’t have a printer like this to demonstrate, but consider an octal apps where the hot extruder is sitting to the side using while the photo is taken when it comes back, that boozing is going to collect on the surface of the model. This is an earth shield as you see from the following animation, it builds up around the outside of the printer. The idea is that all the imperfections and oozing is captured on the ice shield. And once you separate it. The print inside is perfect, so hopefully now you have a better understanding of some of the problems you’re likely to encounter before we start to slice. We need to set up the slicing software and I’m going to cover it in simplified 3d purrr slicer as well as I’d making to be as comprehensive and hopefully as concise as possible. Originally, I thought in simplified 3d I could start with an existing profile and simply add an extruder, but unfortunately, that did not work. Instead, I found I needed to go to the configuration assistant, not ideal, But for the GTECH 8nm, I started with this row. Stock Mini pro jewel. As you can see the bed size and configuration is completely wrong. So you need to come back through and change all of your settings here to get it back the way it needs to be in Korea. You can see that. I’ve added the Gtech, a 10m and to do that. I added a printer. Put in all of your dimensions, and you set me a number of extruders to two. And then you can configure them individually once again in idea maker. If you come to printer settings, you’ll have the chance to add or duplicate the printer and once again on this main screen, we can set the amount of extruders and then we can set them up independently. Please note that for all of these. If you have a dual extruder dual nozzle machine, you’ll need to tell it how far apart they are, so it can correctly calculate the offset and make the correct. G code. So the two different colors align when you’re printing in slicer. We’re a little bit stuck until we enable expert mode, it’ll. Give you a clue down the bottom that you haven’t done that to do that. We need to come to our preferences and then change the mode from simple to expert. Now when we come up to our printer settings, we can set the amount of extruders that we want by adding one here and then configuring them independently. Now that we have our printer set up it’s time to do the actual, slicing once again. I’m going to cover each of the most popular slices. Did you know that everyone’s favorite 3d printing test boat the Ben? She has a dual extrusion version. We’re going to use it to illustrate the process. Here you can see. I’ve imported the two separate halves, but the problem is, they’re not aligned with each other by default, most slicing programs want to position things nice and neatly in the middle of the bed. Now before we proceed, it’s a good idea to get all of your settings in place. And that includes coming to the additions and turning on the primed pillar if instead of using a boost shield, You can turn that on here. Also, now it’s important to set this to all extruders and your pillar width to a number after trial and error in is big enough to give your nozzle enough time to transition cleanly from one color to the other the location. I like to have it in the middle, So it combines and the speed multiplier is something you might experiment with because you don’t care at all about quality, so you might like to bunt the speed right up just to get it over with quickly and recommend changing all of your extruder settings and your attraction before going any further, essentially, what we’re trying to do is to move this to in position to get them perfectly aligned, but it’s going to be impossible to do without the support of the program if we select both of them and come up to the. Edit menu. There’s an option for align selected model origins. That’s gonna grip them together, but they’re not locked at this stage. You can still move one and separate them. Therefore, an additional step is to group them together now. If we try to move them, they’ll stay aligned now. If I undo back to how it was simplifies ready actually has an inbuilt tool for this. If we come up to tools, dual extrusion wizard, we’ll have a dialog box. Come up where we can assign which extruder we want to print. Which of the models you can see here. It says group and aligned models is ticked. And that means it’s going to do those two steps for you automatically as well as assigning which color is which now even on a mixing machine like the 8nm extruder one is always the one on the right and extruded two is always the one on the left. You can see that it’s combined these two together and also set up two processes for the two different colors. Now, when we come to prepare to print, it’ll ask us which we want to include. We want to do both and then when we hit. OK, we should have our preview with our prime block. Now in Kuro! We need to come up to our settings and configure setting visibility. You can then either type in jewel in the filter or scroll down until you find these options here, and you want to tick the ones that you want to play with, so we’ve got our use shield and our prime tower and other things here, like picking the size and position. Now before we go any further, we need to assign an extruder to each one, so we’re going to right. Click, and we can see extruder. One is ticked here, right. Click on this one and change that to extruder two. Now we can hold shift. Click both of them, right, Click and merge the two models. All about dual extrusion options are here. I’m just going to leave it on Prime Tower. You can see you get a little preview of whether Prime. Taro is going to be. That’s a shadow here when we’re ready, we can slice and then have a look at how it’s gonna be, so here’s. Our preview, we have Extruder 1 and Extruder 2 and we can see. We have a prime tower. It does it hollow in Cura. And I think the idea is that you can set it to wipe across the top, so it kinda counts like a new shield as well. I deem a key is a little bit easier. I’ve imported my two models separately. When you click on one of them, you can set which extruder you want, you can see. I’ve set left and right now. If I hold shift, so I can select, both can come up to model and come to align selected models. Now, when I come to start slicing, I can input my other required options. I can confirm here in per model extruder but the two parts are set to Ed Extruder each and I have absolutely zero settings here, so we’re just going to import something from another printer, but on this next screen we need to click on advanced and this is where we can come to use and put on a white wall or a white tower or in this case. Let’s try both, and then when we’re done, we can hit slice and we should come up with our preview. We can clearly see in this preview. The two different extruder colors and everything has worked as it should. Obviously you wouldn’t have this one as well as this one in your edition’s Slicer is that perhaps the most annoying one of these to setup and we have to do a couple of extra steps, so we’re going to start by adding the first of the files, and for some reason, Slicer doesn’t like this, even though the other slices have no problem with it. A mesh mixer reports no errors, but nonetheless we will continue. We’re going to double Click on it and we’re going to load apart. We click the second file and we can see that it’s automatically put the two together. Now we’re gonna click on one at a time and set the extruder. So the default is fine for the first part and then we’re going to set this one to two. Then we’re going to hit. OK, now we have to come up to play that and we’re going to export the plate as an AMF. I’m gonna delete that XML off the end hit save. And now we delete what we’ve just done and advocate our new file. Now Slicer is still not liking the file, but you can see that as I rotate around, you can see the two colors are distinct from each other, And when I come to my preview now clearly, I’m still having that same issue here where the STL was recognized as damaged and therefore there’s gaps in the model, but apart from that, it is working the options for controlling. Hoos are pretty limited. But we do have prevention here and ticking that when we come back and check the preview will add our curtain around the outside now. I can’t find it away. In this version, a slicer to show which is doing which, but when you look at the g-code, it is clear that is changing back and forth between the two extruders with this method every time the extruder changes, it’s either T 0 or T 1 so we can see we have a number of T 0s And if we search for T 1 we have a number of those as well, so it is changing back and forth. It’s just not very user-friendly in communicating that to you. Now, it’s worth noting that I’m using the regular version of slicer there, but if you have a pressure machine and using slice of pressure Edition, there’s a lot more options for dual extrusion and much more control over purge blocks and things like that, so I printed the simplified 3d version on the a 10m and the results are a little bit mixed. It’s safe to say, despite printing a little retraction tower to dial in my settings. I’ve still had a lot of trouble with stringing and the end result is only OK. That wasn’t going to slow me down. However, I needed a specific 3d printed vehicle to carry specific weights across a bridge for a bridge burning project. I was doing at school. I therefore thought this was a good chance to design my first ever dueled extrusion design. So here’s my first ever dual extrusion design as you can see. I have a bunch of separate plots here, and I’ve color-coded them for how I want them to be printed at the end. I’ve turned on a section view here to illustrate that, although the reciprocate sits gonna have rolling wheels in it. Prints all in one go. So if I slide this through, you can see that there’s little gaps between everything and there’s nothing ever over 45 degrees overhang apart from the inside of the tray, but it’s easy to turn on support, which should remove cleanly enough for that. When you’re done, you don’t need to do anything expecially when you export. Sdl’s this all the individual files. You will reorient 8 them in your slicing software to get everything aligned and perfect here. It is sliced in simplified 3d and it was, in fact a little of a disaster. The 8nm is prone to stripping filament and then clogging. So this was my first attempt. This was my second and finally. I was running out of time before I needed to have this done for school, so I scaled it down and did it at 50% and turned out pretty good. I was mostly happy with it, but I still have some attraction settings to dial in and some over extrusion as well. So instead I turned to my Tebow. Tornado printed it out all in one color, but really fast with the fad nozzle and this is how it went. My apologies to your ears for the screaming, but I’m very proud of how excited they are. While they’re learning about engineering. Let’s kind of wrap this one up as you can see. I’ve still got some ground to cover When it comes to tuning in the a 10 M. You can expect to find my problems and solutions in an upcoming video comment below. Have you used these techniques before or as this video enables you to expand your 3d printing horizons and try out something new. Thank you so much for watching and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the Bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.

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