Do you want to learn the secrets of korean pet G? We’ll stick with me. Because in this episode, I’m going to share my secrets with you guys. So let’s jump into this together. [MUSIC] Welcome to this episode of DIY 3dtechcom in this episode. I’m going to talk about my secrets to printing patchy. I love this plastic. It’s my go-to plastic for anything that I need durable, or I need precision with, and I just love this stuff. So, uh, the other thing before we get into this, I want to mention is. It’s also a very clean plastic in comparison to the styrene based plastics like hips or ABS. So that’s another reason I like working with it and you guys should too so. How do I print this stuff well? The first thing I start with is I give the bed a little bit of extra space between the hot end nozzle. I typically use a card. This is about a point about point Three zero, uh, thickness card, so I give it probably about an extra 0.1 millimeters of space for it to lay down the plastic now. This is a very viscous plastic. So you don’t want to really push it down to the bed. You want to allow it to flow? It’s very sticky, so you won’t, you know, have a big problem? I find that if I really push it down, then I get these nerds and the hot end catches the nerd pulls up the print, etc, so give it a little bit of space to breathe as we’re talking about the bed. The other thing I do is I use this blue painter’s tape or I print on the surface. Now, one of the things you might notice down here. I’ve still got the the black diamond bed Or basically. It’s one of those big glass. Uh, print surfaces on here. That I’ve placed the Billtack knockoff sheet on top of youll. Notice the haziness over here because I typically will use a glue stick. If I print directly to this, but I, you know, I go back and forth between using a glue, stick a purple glue stick on the build, tack surface or the blue painter’s tape. I find I get a little bit better. Finish with the blue painter’s tape, and I get a little bit easier. Pull off with this and it’s typically cleaner because I just throw this tape away afterwards. So that’s one of the other big hints. Is you know if you’re doing this, you know, stick with either. The blue painter’s tape or go with the glue for, uh, ease of release. Now the piece also with this is. I only print pet G on this because this really messes up the bed for any other type of plastic. So this printer is dedicated to Peggy and I would really suggest that. If you’re going to be doing something like this, you know, stick with one printer for patchy, etc, or else you’re going to have, you know a lot of work cleaning it up in between prints. If you want to switch back and forth, the other thing is. Is I print with this bed pretty hot? This bed is at about 87 degrees C. And I found that that works really well for me and again back to this glass bed, which is underneath here. This really helps maintain temperature of this, and it really helps prevent warping because pet G does not work nearly as bad as abs, but it will warp so again, the higher heat, especially for the longer prints this print will take at least eight hours to run. And if you don’t keep it hot, especially this is in a climate controlled area, but not it’s not in my house. It’s in my workshop. I keep the temperature about 70 degrees Fahrenheit in here and I will get warping issues. If I don’t keep this at a higher temperature and keep this this temperature because this is also an open frame print as you can tell. That’s the other thing that I like about this. JG Aurora is it’s a 24 volt unit so again it keeps the temperature of this bed up there and pretty constant, especially forward being such a large bed Because the other pieces you notice. I have a silicone sock here. I’m printing This At 240 degrees, C. Petchey is typically a very viscous plastic, so it takes a lot of heat or a fair amount of heat. I should say probably not a lot of heat, but you also want to keep it. Within a very tight temperature range to get a good result. And this this helps now. I also have converted this. Uh, it’s a Bowden extruder. Obviously or golden, Uh, with bone hot end, is I? Have the capricorn tube in here. And that really works great and very important because it doesn’t clog up down here. The other piece I want to talk about. Speaking of clogging is retraction retraction. I’m running, uh, 6.5 millimeters at 50 millimeters a second so very fast. I also depending on the part kind of structure. Uh, how my retracts set up. But I find that if I retract at those parameters, I get really good results, but again you want to watch that you don’t have a ton of retracts or you may run into some clogging issues, but for me, that’s been pretty good. Now, speaking of that, I also want to talk a second about slicers, so I hate cure. I’m not a big fan of cure to begin with. I do use it here and there because I am lazy sometimes, and it’s easy to use, uh, but for patchy. I have just had terrible luck. Why, I really don’t know I’ve used the kiss slicer to do all my slicing for Peggy And it comes out flawless. Does an excellent job. I don’t know why, but it works for me and I’m just stuck with it. So those are my big combination secrets to this now. The other pieces I want to talk about is speed. You’ll notice that this is going rather slow with ped g again. It’s a very viscous. You can’t push it as fast as PLA or at least I have not found that I can push it as fast as PLA. So I slow this down where I’m typically maybe at 60 millimeters a second. I’m around 40 now. I probably could push this to 50 but again when I’m printing something like this. This is an end use part. This is going to go in service, so I want high quality, so I’m willing to go slower to get the finer detail, which is a point four millimeter nozzle, and I’ve had very good luck at point four, and I’ll talk about the larger nozzles in a minute, but at this speed setting, I typically go first layer at about 30 and then I go the rest about, uh, 40 might push it to 50 depending upon the quality or the type of design. You’ll notice that this has a pretty tight infill and it’s got two millimeter shells on this so again. I want things to go down very nice. And it also has some interesting detail around the sides, and this is a functional part, so quality is important. So I slow it down. You should slow it down, too, if you want. Quality travel is about 100 because who cares, you know, really about travel, uh, infill? I keep about the same. I still do that about 40 You can see it doing the infill here and again it’s for me. It’s all about getting a quality product out of this Now. I have used this with the point. Six and point eight millimeter size nozzles. Uh, I don’t feel as comfortable with the results. Obviously, when you go with the large nozzle, you’re going to lose some of the detail, which is like my hand gets bumped by the bed. Uh, and that’s okay, sometimes, but I just don’t feel I get as a resilient of a product out of it so again. These are end use products for me, so I’m willing to spend the other the extra time to go with the 0.4 nozzle, and I feel that’s a real good balance. I would not go with less than a point. Four nozzle either. Um, because again, how viscous the plastic is so these are my basic tips and tricks to how I print Peggy and I print a ton of it and it, you know, 99.99 really comes out. Well, so the other pieces I’ve already mentioned. I think having a printer set up to run ped. G is another important factor because this one’s always ready to go in pidgey. It’s tuned for pet sheep, and I’m not switching back and forth between other plastics. So I think that’s another pretty good tip. So if you have some additional tips which I didn’t cover, please hit me up in the comments below and share those with me. Id, uh, be interested in hearing what you guys have to say, and with that swag shops up there, subscribe over there well. See you guys in the next video, where we print something else, cool and we’ll probably be talking about this. So take care and see you guys later. [music] cheers!