How’s it going, guys? I think it’s here from makers Muse, so recently in my form to 3d printer review. I showed this guy Anderson Cat. And I quickly explained that I had hollowed it out to save on resin and make this file more 3d printable in a resin process. And that’s important because you don’t want to print solid models in resin because you can’t have infill like you can have on a standard. Fdm 3d printer and a few people asked me to clarify how I did that in meshmixer. So in this video. I’m going to quickly show you how I prepare. Models for residents ready printing. This should be applicable to pretty much any residence ready printing process, whether it’s SLA or DLP, or whatever variation of those two. So let’s get started. Alright, so we got the mesh mixes fired up, and this is the guy Anderson Cat in its original condition. So you see, it’s got the got the entire model solid there, and you don’t want to print this like it is in resin printing build, print solid, so what a lot of people will do is put drainage holes in and you can do that, and I’ll probably demonstrate it, But as an example I mentioned in the forum to review. If you have holes here roughly this size or so, it’s not so great, because as you let the part cure the trapped liquid resin sort of seeps or weeps out of those small holes and it can deliver your letter unsightly mark or uncured resin on the actual final print, despite the rest of it being cured. So what I tend to try to do is actually make the entire thing. Follow so you can get right in there with the isopropyl alcohol. Clear it out, and then you’re good. And, of course, depends on the model, but if it’s like this where the base is on the ground, you don’t care. If it’s hollow, it’s actually fine, so let me just demonstrate how to do that, but first we need to work out our scaling because we’re going to be hollowing the model out. We want to know what the wall thickness is so figure out what size you want your print first, so good analysis and units and dimensions and this cat is a hundred and thirty millimeters high C 130 millimeters there, and you can change it as you wish. So for example, you can make it 150 You know, you’re not going to see a visual change, but it will change the actual size of the of the model, but let’s just go with 130 That’s fine, so this is important. If you’re important like game figurines or whatever, you know, miniatures, you want to make sure you get your size correct in this circumstance? Okay, so let’s work on hollowing it out, but before we do that, we’re going to have to extend the base face because when we the process is, we’re going to hollow this model, but then we’re going to cut it and we’re going to cut it off at the bottom to leave that hole, but if we just follow it now there’ll be sort of. I guess they’re the the surface here and we’ll be cutting into the model. We don’t want that so we want to do is edit and we want to choose generate face groups. So what this is going to do you can see here is actually separate. The faces of the model into certain distinct groups called face groups, which is going to help us select just the base layer so it has an angled threshold. You know, we can change this as we like. This is probably lagging the recording up a lot. This computer is very sick right now. There we go so different color. That’s all we need, and except there we go, so we have our face groups, and you see, like now. It sort of turned these areas of certain deviation into individual faces, so we go to select we can just double Click change our size of our brush. We can just double click areas and they completely select. Okay, but we don’t select there. We want to select the base so select double click and also this poor here. So any of the base faces you want to select. If the base of your model isn’t flat, you can just extend it out anyway. It will still work, but I do recommend the flat base. If you’re doing this method because you want to sit flat on something, obviously okay, so we’ve done that, and let’s go to deform and transform. Alright, so we’re just going to pull this down and doesn’t matter. How far you go, that’s tons? That’s plenty, okay, except so we’re going to accept that and just find this. Inspect your model to make sure that there’s no obvious errors or anything from doing that. If you pull in a direction, that’s not just directly down. You might get some weird, glitzy stuff going on, but that looks good to me. Clear selection. Okay, so with that out of the way now, we just need to follow the model so go to. Hollow and let it do It’s thing, right, so I kind of wish Meshmixer would Les let you change settings and then update? But it just wants to update instantly, so the default is to That’s actually quite thick for a resonant 3d print. I would go with one the half. You probably might even get away with one. Depending on the model, you know, at the detail at print, it’s probably fine, and these are the you know, solar accuracy and mesh density. The inside we don’t really care about. Somesh miss density density. We can just turn that a little bit but accuracy. We probably want to leave it as is, and, yeah, that looks good, so that’s update. Halle, alright, there’s our updated holo so you can see with the ghosted view. It’s actually made all this bottom part hollow as well, which is exactly what we wanted. If we didn’t extend that base area, it would have just made it. Hollow up to here and we would have still had the surface at the bottom there, so we’re going to just say, accept and let that close cool, so we’ve got that accepted, and our model is now hollow, even though you can’t really see it. So what we’re going to do is plane. Cut the good old fashioned plane cut and lets. Move that down all the way all the way. So if the increments are too coarse like, for example, moving this, it’s quite coarse is moving in two-and-a-half minute increments. You can change it by hitting the up or down arrow, For example, like that up, makes it a makes it fine. Art down makes it coarser, but here. I can actually move to zero. And the model was actually on zero, which is handy in terms of its location in space. And you can see its. Cut it there nicely and we get that beautiful, clean hollow inside of a model so except let that do its thing, and there we go, so we’ve got our model. It looks the same visually from the top, but it’s completely hollowed out. So when we go to actually print it, it will print. Hollow, which means it’s going to have less suction forces on the the first few layers of your resin tank and it’s going to print with much less resin, then if it’s solid but cleaning, it is the main thing you just dunk it in your IPA, and the IPA gets right in cleaned out. This is all dry. This is you so dry, it cured lovely, whereas just with holes like this, you can get a bit of sea things, but let’s just go through how to do the holes easily using the hollowing command. Just in case your model can’t get away with this. For example, you want to see the base? You just need a hole. Let me just quickly show you how to do that so. I’ve just pulled a sphere in here, And for example, let’s say you want to print this model as it is. And you don’t want to split it into parts. I would normally break this into two and then do it The hollowing like I just mentioned and glue them together afterwards, but that’s say you have to print it as one, so we’re going to need to use drainage holes to save on resin so to do that. It’s pretty much the same process, except instead of extending any faces. You’re going to do it all within the Halloween command, so just go to hollow like so, and then we want to change offset distance again. I for the scaling we’re printing out. I like 1.5 but you know, user own judgement, so there we have it. The offset at 1.5 and now the latest versions of mesh mix actually has this generate hold command built-in so you can choose. How many holes you want and what the radius is. So you notice the radius slider only goes up to 3 but you can actually enter any size. You want, it will do it, so let’s say this. This model needs two holes. For example. That’s fine and let’s make those holes six. You could get a get away with smaller, but again going back to the example guys, the smaller, they are the slower. It is to get the resin out the harder it is to get your IPA isopropyl alcohol in to clean it, and it’s not going to cure inside because there’s no UV UV rays. I’m going to reach in there, so you want to make the holes as big as possible and ideally make it completely hollow like that, but let’s make it six and let’s generate some holes. There we go, so there are some holes and normally in your model. You’ll want to put them in an area where you’re not going to see them. So, for example, with a cat, you could put them under the arm. Here like it one there. And then you could put one under the base as long as one of them’s in a different plane. I generally say use two holes because again the suction imagine you put a hole in a bottle and then tip it upside down. It drains quite slowly Be put a hole on the top. It drains much quickly clear. I can get in so for that. I’m happy of this and let’s say, except so this is basically combining a few different commands in one. It’s actually doing a bill indifference, but it’s all just built in to the same command so now. I’ve got this sphere with two holes in that nicely. I’ll use plain cut to demonstrate how it looks like that. There you go, and that will print fine, but again, ideally. I would have actually printed that in two halves, and once you’re happy with it, you can just click the model you want, for example, the cat and then file export and export it as an STL. To bring into your your software for your resin 3d printer, and that’s how I hollow out models for resin 3d printing. Thanks for watching guys. Have you found this quick tutorial useful on hollowing out your models and preparing them for Rezulin 3d printing. Let me know in the comments. What you think and any other tips and tricks you might have for preparing your models for resin printing. It is a different process. It’s hard a little bit hard to get your head around if you’ve been printing with FDM for a long time to trance to transfer to liquid resin 3d printing, But I reckon the results are worth it. You get such a good finish if you enjoyed this video and make us miss. Kaiser mercy features really bring tips, tricks and reviews hit a subscribe button helps us out a huge amount. I look forward to seeing again very shortly. Catch you later, guy’s bye. Each plate is placed satellite. They welcome.