How To 3d Print Multiple Colors | Multi-color 3d Print In Cura 3 On Creality Ender 3


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Multi-color 3d Print In Cura 3 On Creality Ender 3


In previous videos, I showed you how to make multicolor signs like this or even my Filament Friday sign using a single nozzle printer and simplify 3D. Today I’m going to show you how I took. These four colors made a multicolor CHEP cube, using a single nozzle, Ender 3 and a single file produced in Cura. I’ll show you how to do it on today’s Filament Friday. This week’s episode is brought to you by these Patreon supporters. Here’s my Chep Cube brought into Cura version 3.6. I’ve sliced it and then here’s the layer view. And you can see, there’s a hundred layers and what I want to do is print the first color up to layer 25 And then I want to print the next color from 25 up to layer 50. And then from layer 50. On new color up to layer 75 And then a final color from 75 on up to layer 100. This is how I’m going to control this in Cura. I come up here to Extensions> post-processing> modify g-code and what this does is allow me to make a series of scripts. One of the scripts is pause at height. Now that height doesn’t have to be a dimension, I can select to pause at a layer number. So I select layer number from the drop-down menu and choose 25 for my layer number. Now I want to move out of the way, so I set an X position of 20. Y position of 20. Now for retraction, I’m gonna set this at 25 I want it to pull the filament out while the nozzle is still hot and do it pretty quickly. That way I can come back while this thing is cold and get that filament out of there, I want to redo the last layer, so the two merge together, and then while it’s waiting for me, Cool down to 25 degrees C. Now I add another script. Again, another pause at height. Select layer number. Only this time, I’m going to go 50. Instead of 25 Everything else is the same, Including retracting that filament So I could easily remove it, And then the last layer reprinted. I add a third one to stop the layer height of 75 All the same settings. So now I’ll have three pause at height 25 50. And 75 thatll. Allow me to change the filament. Now, once you do this, this little wrench symbol shows up next to prepare. You can click on that and go back right to them rather than go through that menu and modify if you need to. Now we click on prepare. This will re-slice the file and add those scripts to the g-code. So let’s save this file and then we’ll take a look at the G code in a text editor. It’s all you need just a simple text editor. I’ll use define to find a layer 25 and here it is, so I’m not going to go through all this, but there’s the pause command. There’s the set temperature to 25 degrees C. And there’s the position to the X&Y. But let’s just do this. So I’m gonna pop this SD card in. I load up some blue. Filament Friday Filament And then I go to the menu and I select print from SD card. Find the file, click on it. And it’s gonna print just like any other file. I gotta wait for it to heat up, and then it’ll start printing. So here it is all heated up. It’s gonna start laying down the first layer. It lays down a skirt for me first, and then it’ll start printing the base of the Chep cube And once it finishes the twenty-fifth layer, its gonna pauseIt’ll move to that 20/20 position and there’s the first layer twenty-five layers high And you can see, it’s telling me It’s waiting for the user, so I could take forever. So the nozzle can be cold, But because I retracted that filament way up, I can still pull this out. It’s not stuck in the hot end, and then I could just load up the new filament while this thing is still waiting. And the hot end is still at, like, 25 degrees C. So I feed in my next color, and I just slide it in into the extruder through the Bowden Tube all the way down to the nozzle. Now, of course, the nozzle’s gonna have some blue filament still in it. So I need to heat it up for that. So all I need to do is go back to the menu. Click on the button, let it know. I’m ready, Click on the info screen, And now you can see. It’s set to 205 It’s gonna start heating up the hot end. Well, what I can do is while I’m waiting, I can wait until it gets to about 170 or 180 degrees, and I can just start cranking out the orange until the blue changes to orange. So then I get the proper color. Just get rid of that little excess and then let this thing finish heating up. And when it hits the 205 degrees C, it’s going to start printing. Only now it’s going to print orange on the next layer. So it does, its orange bit. Now It’s that layer 50. Does the same thing moves to the side and I go through the same steps. Only this time I’m gonna load white. Push it all the way in. Hit the button to tell. I’m ready. Info screen. It’s gonna heat up. I twist out a little more. Wait until the orange is gone. And pull that out of the way. It heats up and then it’ll start printing the white. And there you can see in a kind of a time-lapse. It’s printing the white on top of the orange on top of the blue. Now I’m gonna finish it up with some proto-pasta. CHEP candy, apple red. This is a little different filament, so you can see. I’m getting the little blobs on the side. And of course, those blobs aren’t wanted, but they actually break off pretty easy. And overall, this print looks decent. The colors bonded together pretty good. I’ve got pretty straight edges. So overall, it did a good job of positioning between each layer. So now let’s look at a close-up of this. And I took those little blobs off. You can see, they’re gone from that corner right there. But I am getting some sagging in the red on top, but overall, this isn’t a bad print. I wouldn’t say it’s the best quality print. I’ve ever done, but you can see. The bonding is really, really good. So this is how you can make multicolor prints using Cura. So clearly this wasn’t the best quality print to show this feature, but printing small like this in multiple colors is sometimes harder than making a big sign like this. Those blobs that showed up in the corner would be over here. And you wouldn’t even notice them. But printing different materials is also a factor. I’ve got Filament Friday Filament on three of them, but proto-pasta HT PLA on the top. This is the CHEP candy. Apple red that I inspired for Proto-pasta. But it clearly needs different Temp settings than the other three. That’s why I got sagging at the different letters. The point is, I showed you how to make multiple processes in Cura. So the machine will wait for you to come change the filament, not you standing over it. Ready to hit pause and then change the filament. So I think it’s a handy feature to know how to use in Cura? I’ve got some mail. I got to get to. It’s been sitting here And so Nick Lonzisero. You got some stickers coming, Noah Diamond. You got some Filament Friday stickers coming. Dusek and Powell custom builders. Thank you so much for the $25 Amazon gift card. It’s gonna buy me some filament. I appreciate it And you get some stickers coming. And Paul Cumber. Thanks for the card. You’ve got some stickers coming too. So that’s it for this week. If you like what I’m doing here, maybe check out some of these videos that are popping up. If you want to help support the channel, Patreon is one way to do it or just buy through the affiliate links in the description below. It all helps a lot. And if nothing else click on that CHEP logo and subscribe, That’s it for this week. I hope you enjoyed it. I’ll see you next time right here at Filament Friday.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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