Transcript:
Just got this playing pressure up the printer now. I’m just kidding, but in this video, I’m gonna show you how you can print your own 3d printed plane. So first of all, you’ll need a 3d printer with a bill volume of approximately this size. If you’re wondering what printer I’m using, I’m using a delta mini castle. You will also need some high quality PLA. I recommend PLA because it’s easier to print, and also if you get the right temperatures when printing, it can also be write strong. I also highly recommend that you have experience in building previous model aircraft. I’m not going to run through all of the details behind the electronics wise. I will give you the specifications. That’s what I’m using. But again you will need some experience in one layer craft building to get it to fly so to start with it. You’ll need 2 9 gram servos! I’ll be putting links to all the electronics In the description below. I’m running a 22:05 Emacs, 2300 KB motor so quite common motor for Mini quad races, drone racers, running a six by four and a half propeller and inside. I have a U bad 30 AMP speed controller with a 5 volt regulator to power the Servos and the receiver. The receiver will entirely depend on what transmitter you already have or we can go to purchase, but I’m running the free Sky Taranis with a free sky. X4 are inside so onto the printer settings on my 3d printer. I have a naught point, Four millimeter nozzle and I extrude with a naught point. Five millimeter wall thickness. What I recommend you do is experiment with printing the wings, all the different temperatures. Most PLA recommend 180 degrees C to 200 degrees C, but I actually found that to get strong enough layer strength, seeing as the wing will be printed vertically. I recommend printing a lot higher temperature for the P layer. I’m using, I’m printing at 215 degrees and I’m printing It really slow so that when it gets around to the next layer, it’s not still hot. You really need it to be printing the top because the layers are printed this way, so the strength of the wing really depends on the layered strength of the material. Here is the ring that I printed in my first 3d printed wing video. This is printed at 200 degrees. I believe, and if I press down on it, you can hear that you can hear the layers coming apart. You might be able to see it as well so that that’s what people typically and recognize PLA and being like where the the latest scrap apart and this also would be very strong, and we most likely Snap-in’s life, whereas with this final version. I’ve done, I printed this at 215 degrees. And if I push down on that, that’s that, you know cracking Im. Sorry, excuse. The mud marks on. This is absolutely no cracking, and it feels like it’s one solid material so to run over the printer settings for each part, seeing as each part, actually requires a different printer setting. I’ll just display than it. So the wing settings are as follows. I’ve printed with an on point. Five millimeter wall thickness 0% infill. It is really important to make sure that the wing is hollow. I have designed it with the ribs installed, so a SU new person to represent infill. You would actually see the fins. Sorry, the ribs showing up and together layer strength. I printed at 215 degrees at 40 millimeters per second with the cooling fan turned off. Make sure that you have zero top layers set and there a bottom layer set and one layer outside line set what I recommend is. You have a small skirt around the outside, so just a couple layers just to keep the wing a deed to the to the bed properly because the one will be standing up on this end, there’s not much surface area around it. The other parts of the plane, such as the winglets, the elephants, the fuselage and also the canopy cover can be printed in whatever setting you want the settings that I use are As follows. I use 25% into to lay two outer layers and three top and bottom layers. I was imprinted them at 200 degrees and at 60 millimeters per second because it didn’t matter so much about the layer strength. I also had to call in fan on to speed up the process, so I’ve designed the parts to print pretty well tolerance wise on my printer so that they all slide together, but I can’t guarantee they’re going to work exactly the same on your printer, so I’d recommend using a file or some sandpaper just to make stuff it a bit better before you glue them together, so recommend you start with printing the fuselage first that way you can get the electronics all installed before printing all of the wing sections. If you’re planning on using the you bed speed controller or any other kind of drone racing mini quad type speed controller, you would also need a five volt regulator, which I’ve already soldered on to the speed controller. So the first thing you need to do. Electronics wise is to thread the speed controller through the fuselage and through the rear hole where the motor will be mounted. Then you need to solder the motor to the speed controller and pull the wires back through once the wires are pulled through tight and the motor sits roughly on the mount. You need a long hex driver. I believe for these Emacs bolts. You will need a three millimeter hex driver to do up the bolts. So these servos that I’ve used the actual server wire. It’s slightly too short, so I’ve got these small extension leads, which you can probably just plug together and plug straight into the receiver, however, other so just to solder them together, Just so that if it does come unplugged, it’s not a really fiddly job trying out, you know, plug them back. In inside the fuselage. So once you’ve installed these servos in the wing and then threaded the wire through to the center part. You can start going over together. I used medium CA from hobbyking. I’ve tried thin CA, but it gets quite runny. And also it doesn’t fill the holes as well if there is a slight tolerance issue on the sleeve on the wing, so I recommend using medium CA. I wouldn’t recommend gluing these servos in on my wing D server. I should fit in quite nice friction wise with the tolerances, and then I just put a layer of tape over the top just to secure them in position. If you do want to glue them, then just be warned. You might not be able to get back out again. I used some 10 millimeter diameter disc magnets, which I purchased from Hobby King. The canopy simply slides in at the front, then sticks down with the magnets of the rear. The fuselage was originally designed for a 1,300 milliamp forest battery. However, I actually found out that it was slightly too heavy with that besides battery, so I recommend running an 1800 Milliamp Forest battery. The elephants are simply attached with some packing tape. I recommend you get some 3m packing tape because that stuff is really strong. And if you get some cheap stuff, it doesn’t really stick to the PLA that we’ll pitch rolls I had, which is something that I had laying around, but we’ve put in the link in the description to some better ones, the composers from hobbyking. So that’s pretty much it from the build side of this plane. I’ve got all the SEL. Flyers down in the description below, it’d be great. If if you do end up printing this, please let me know via a Youtube message or contact me via think of us because I’d be really interested to see what you think. If you do end up printing and also flying it, I’d also be interested in what you think of the flying characteristics because I’d like to modify it slightly to make it fly. You know, really nice and maybe even bring out a FPV version of it. I put a lot of effort into the design of its plane. So really help me out. If you could, you know, leave a thumbs up and also consider subscribe. But if you enjoyed the video before I leave. You is some footage of the plane in Action Sylia [Music] [Music] [Music]. Yeah, setup. [music] You know, Deborah? Yeah, I can feel everything you could already think. Um, [Music] to be over London. If I run again you.