Thinking of changing your into three build surface. Well, here’s a comparison of three different options. [MUSIC] [Music] into threes Come with a fake bill tech surface as you see here now. The earlier ones had it stuck onto the metal plate. The later ones now have it removable If you’ve got the earlier system or more importantly, if your metal plate is warped, then please keep watching if your factory system is working, and you happy with it well. You’re only gonna find more convenience from the things shown in this video. I’ve printed heaps on mine, including PLA abs MPEG. All of them work great and they were separated by hacking at it with a spatula. It probably helps that. I was one of the lucky ones and my bed came quite flat. If you are making the change, the first step is to remove this sticker to get it back to a bare metal plate with just a little bit of attention with a scraper. You should be able to get underneath the edge and then it should peel off quite comfortably. I headed mine up to sixty degrees C just to help with that now. The glue was left behind, but once again once. I got the scraper under the edge. I can lift it up And it came off in really large sections. This is a lot less painful than I was expecting. It wasn’t very long until I had a bare metal plate And fortunately, this required no further cleaning alternative number. One is a sheet of glass. Now you can use standard glass. I did so for years with my solidoodle -, but you will need things Like tape, hairspray or glue stick to help some filament Stick down, especially things like ptg or ABS. This here is an inner cubic ultra base. It’s got a special micro coating on it, which grips the filament when it’s hot, but when everything naturally falls down, it releases and the parts come straight off, reality has recently released their own version of this. You guys for around $24 us? You can see in the link below where you can get it directly from their store. What have you end up getting? Keep in mind that? Although the printing surface is 220 by two twenty millimeters, the actual bed surface is two thirty five by two thirty five to fit. One of these? All we have to do is pop it on top, the simplest way to attach, it is with four binder clips. If you’ve got auto bed leveling, make sure they’re not going to collide with weather sensor probes, There was another approach, which is using a thermal pad. But I’ve never done that before. I printed a bunch on this bed, and I pretty much had zero issues after I got. The first layer height dialed in nicely. Here we have ABS, which prints just great in an open frame printer, more abs and then some PT G which stuck very well. Please make sure that you have all four binder clips in place here. I only had two and you can see. As the glass moves around. It introduces late shifts and ruins. The print here is an ABS print, look in the corners as it peels up because it’s a large, solid object as the plastic shrinks, so does the object to form now here as we promised, Watch, what happens when everything cools down, pick it up. It’s as if it was never stuck at all. Just for the record. This any cubic ultra base is quite flat as well next up. We have this easy peel. Zee system. I first saw this in a video by makers means it’s basically adhesive on the bottom and then a two-part magnetic sheet. You’ll find that when you align them perfectly. They snap together and the zero chance of it moving around the smaller size. This comes in is 200 by 200 This is the XL 300 by 300 version and to fit it. We need to put it on and then cut it down to size so here. I use the factory metal bed as a straight edge to trim my sheet to size on both axes. I’d probably in hindsight recommend using a ruler to do this beforehand. If you’ve done everything correctly, it should be stuck on and the magnetic bit lifts off. I found this really easy to print with Just like regular buildtak. Oh, is PLA ptg. And, of course, you can’t do ABS. Because it only goes up to 80 degrees before it loses its magnetism. Getting the parts off works exactly like you would expect It’s floppy enough that you just peel it and it comes right off. This is one of the easiest products. I’ve ever used for removing. The skirt is a little bit harder, but once you get your fingernail underneath, you’ll find that you can peel off that -. Just like genuine bill tech. It leaves behind a small amount of discoloration on the build surface, so we have standard plus two other options that all work, but have their pros and cons. Let’s try and make a fair comparison. Let’s start with the standard build surface. It is, of course, free with the printer. It sticks very well if it’s flat and its very fast and heating downsides are if the bed is warped. Then you can have a hard time, and as I found it, candy laminated. Hi Attempts by had just a coin down twice. Of course it is less safe anytime. You introduce a scraper to get your prints off. Now here we are comparing an ultra base or the reality glass, it’s pretty cheap at 24 US dollars. It comes flat and sits a variety of filaments and it’s easy to release the parts as soon as it cools, the downsides are pretty big when it comes to time. It takes forever to heat it up, especially to ABS temperatures and it will put a little bit More Load on the Wire Stepper. There is also additional waiting time after printing. While you wait for everything to cool down and it for it to pop up the easy peel. Z System is even cheaper at twenty US dollars and heats up relatively fast on us as fast as stock. It’s definitely safe because you don’t need a scraper and it’s good for PLA and ptg adhesion won’t worry many people, but you cannot print abs with it, and it may slowly degrade and need replacement over time, Just like a regular belt. AK, the price of replacing sheets is probably pretty comparable with the genuine Buildtak product. Now printed a bunch more than I’ve shown here, but I’ve tried to keep this video as short and concise as possible. One other thing worth noting is Auto bed, leveling everything I’ve shown in this video is compatible with both for EZ ABL, as well as the BL touch now in another video. Previously, I had covered the flexplate from Bill Tech and this works great as well, although it’s a lot lot more expensive. So which one is for you? We’ll, hopefully in this video. I presented enough to help you making an informed decision. Remember that there’s nothing wrong with keeping the factory setup and ultimately, the best solution is the one that works for you and that you most happy with. That’s gonna wrap it up. Thank you so much for watching and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.