Ender 3 All Metal Hotend | Ender 3 Micro Swiss All Metal Hot End

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Ender 3 Micro Swiss All Metal Hot End


Today we’re going to fit an all-metal micro. Swiss hot into the end of three with some back-to-back testing [Music]. I’d like to start by acknowledging the monster. I’ve been covering recently on Endor. Three on this channel aren’t necessarily essential both the end of threats that I reviewed printed quite well out of the box and all the months have done Recently, including this one had to add extra functionality and ease of use in this video were looking at a micro Swiss all-metal hotend. It goes for just under us sixty five dollars and it’s designed and machined in the USA. I’ve already covered the similar product in the past on my Franklin Doodle, which started life as as all trackers m200 in that instance, it was essential to get the printer working properly, But in this case, it’s simply a request video from one of my patrons you might be asking. What does All-metal hotend actually mean, here is a cutaway of the standard. Cr 10 and end a3 hot. And as you can see, PTFE tube goes the whole way down into the melt zone headbutts against the nozzle in the hot end, if it’s not seated, however, and there’s a gap the filament can expand and clog your printer like this excellent photo by Luke Hatfield shows. Now this picture from micro Swiss illustrates that it is, in fact, all metal, the PTFE tube comes in the top, but the whole rest of the assembly has no plastic at all. The thin heat break in between the upper and lower parts is actually from titanium to stop heat creep. When you disassemble the standard hot end, you’ll be able to see just how far the tube goes down inside. So now you should be clear on what full metal hot end means versus a standard one. So let’s have a look what we get with our package. All of the components come neatly and nicely packaged inside this little box and inside the lid of the box is a QR code that leads to the installation instructions that points to a nice Youtube video on their side close for just under seven minutes and covers everything comprehensively. Once so I disassembled. I took the chance to put the old and new hot end side-by-side to make a more detailed comparison on the left. We have the new micro Swiss Edition and on the right. We have the standard hot end as you can see. They are very close to each other dimensionally and have the exact same mounting system for the heater cartridge and the thermistor, whereas the standard heater block has some wrapped captain. Tate insulation. We have a nicely moulded silicon boot for the micro Swiss as you can see on the micro Swiss. The path for the filament is just under two millimeters. Where is this room for the Bowden tube to go down inside the standard hot end? I have to know just how much quality is oozing from the micro Swiss hot end. When you inspect the machining the tolerances and the fit, it’s simply stunning. It’s also worth noting that the nozzle on this model has a coating to help you print abrasive materials like carbon fiber and glow-in-the-dark when I aligned them with two screws side-by-side. You can see that the micro. Swiss is a couple of millimeters shorter. We’re ready to start our install, but before I do. I’d like to make a note on compatibility. According to the Microsoft website, this is compatible with the Cree allottee, CR, ten and a three and a number of other printers. It doesn’t, however, list the tpod tornado, But I pulled all of the fan covers off, held this up and I don’t see any reason why it won’t be compatible. Also, it will be smaller than what comes standard on the Tivo. And that means you can fit things like the Hiromi ducts that I’m now running on my end of three now. The official install is pretty comprehensive. So I’m going to go a little bit quicker in my guide here. The first thing to note is that the two grub screws that retain the heater cartridge need to face down after that. You can slide the heater cartridge in and tighten them fairly tight, but not so tight that you crush anything after that, the thermistor pushes into the little hole next to it, and once again, you carefully do up the retaining, screw nice and tight, but not so tight that it pieces through and cuts the wires after this. You’re going to screw in the titanium heat break and then use the supplied little spanner to tighten it up. Don’t worry about getting it too tight. At this stage, we’re gonna spin the heater block around and screw in the hardened nozzle once again, use the supplied spanner, But don’t worry about getting it too tight. Yet at this point we’re ready to use the same screws to put on the new heater block. This should be as tight as you can get them. Without stripping the thread because we don’t want any wobble introduced into our assembly we’re now gonna take our hot end assembly and slide it up vertically inside the heatsink. There’s a little grub screw that rides in the groove to retain it at the right height. You want this to be firm? But not so firm that you strip the threads, there should be no wobble. If it’s done up properly now, you would have noted that our. Ptfe tube doesn’t need to be as long as before, so I measured and cut off roughly an inch before I installed it in the new hot end here. I’m cutting with the Capricorn Ptfe Tube cutter, push it in from the top nice and firmly and then after that, use the retaining clip that comes with it to lock up the fitting to stop it from wobbling around. This is a really nice touch to include. You’re now ready for the partial reassembly of your hot end assembly. I’m using the Hiromi duct, So I slide it down from the top. Put my bail touch mount into place and tighten up the two screws that hold everything together on the left-hand side. You can do this up very tight to prevent any chance of wobble being introduced into your prints. It’s important to reinstall your fan mine. October 40 by 10 fan is working faultlessly for a few weeks. Now your next step is to heat a pot end to around 240 degrees. I found this next step a lot easier if I took off the silicon boot because you’re going to put in the supplied spanner with a seven mil socket and tension, the two against each other. Once they’re hot to finish off, we’re going to slide on our silicon boot and then reinstall the rest of our part cooling fan components now because the new hot end is a couple of miles shorter than the old one. You’re going to need to at minimum relive with your bed, and if you’re using auto bed leveling, you’re gonna in to reset your Z offset. I found that I needed to remove my to space. The washes for my bail touch to move it up before. I did the Z offset and that got everything closer to where it should be. The last thing we need to do is tune our PID. And if you don’t know what PID is, I’m gonna have a link to a Wikipedia page in the description. The main thing you need to know is that it’s an algorithm that the firmware uses to control the hot end temperature. Anytime you make changes like we have here. It’s a good idea to retune it, unfortunately. Marlin, has that built in. So I mean, octoprint for this step, but you could use Pronterface simplified 3d anything that has a terminal window where you can input G code directly to the 3d printer. I’ll link this model and reference page in the description and it’s got all the commands that you will need. So what we’re going to input Is M 303 You could do C 4 cycles. The default is 5 so I’m not going to enter that You could enter an e value, but we’ve only got one extruder and the default is 0 so I don’t need to worry about that. I will enter the S argument and that’s going to be my target temperature, and you should pick the one that you print at the most. So for me, I mainly use PLA and my profile is set at 200 That’s a minimum we need, so I’m going to send it, and then we’ll wait for the process to run through, so we have confirmation that it started. And if we switch to the temperature tab, we can see that it’s starting to climb, OK? Our process is finished as a bunch of data here and at the are some results. If we switch back to our temperature tab, you can see. I’ve actually done this twice and here are our five cycles that it’s just finished going through now. We’ve got two options with what we can do here. We can go back into. Mullen firmware and search for this exact section and pull in these three numbers or we’re going to enter it in and save it to the EEPROM using g-code if we look at the reference form our lender’s room to put in our three values PID and some other optional things that we don’t really need to worry about so the cheat code, we’re going to use to save. It is M 301 if into those exactly as they appeared in my results. So now I can hit the send button. We get confirmation that it’s been stored. Finally, all I need to do is save it to the EEPROM with M 500 now. If you’re using old firmware capsule without Eeprom support, you’re not going to be able to store it this way, so you’ll need to put this M 301 line in your start G code. And therefore it will be loaded into the memory of the printer. Every time you start a print in the intro to this video. I promised you some back-to-back testing. So let me talk you through what I did my test file. You might have seen on the channel before it’s the micro all-in-one 3d printer test off. Thingiverse same filament same G code and you’d be hard-pressed to really tell any difference. The circles around the bridging test are good and most of the text and small details are captured quite well for this test. I lowered my retraction to only 4 millimeters for reasons which I’ll explain shortly and you can see. There is some little bits of stringing introduced from this once again on the underside. The overhang test is much of a muchness, Not really any difference here. So if there’s no difference in quality, why would you fit an all-metal hot-end? It mainly comes down to one thing and that’s temperature, according to Creati. The Max is 255 for the standard under 3 The reason for this is a PTFE tube. If you look at the safety precautions on the Capricorn Tube website, it shows that as the temperature goes up, harmful fumes are emitted that are dangerous to birds and when it gets even hotter, dangerous to humans as well. This all-metal hot end moves the tube up away from the hot zone, so it’s no longer an issue for PLA. You don’t need the higher temperatures, But what if you want to print polycarbonate this x-ray? D filament needs between 230 to 270 above what the standard and a 3 can do. Nylon is a similar story needing to seventy degrees and also needs a headed bed of 120 Please note that if you have a magnetic bed like fitted to the end of three Pro, they can only go up to 80 degrees Celsius, so you won’t be able to print any of these filaments Even with this micro Swiss hot end. If you want to see more on printing with these high temperature filaments on the end of 3 click the card now to see a video from design prototype test a little bit more food for thought from the micro. Swiss installation video. They make a few recommendations. The retraction in my case was definitely not enough for 4 millimeter, so I’ll be upping that back to where it used to be. The hot end. Temperature didn’t need to be changed with my extra deep. Pla filament and I already had my cooling fan running at 100% of its capacity That brings us to the end of this video. A lot of people requested this in the last few months. So please leave a comment below. It’s still gonna head this direction, or do you think it was more of an upgrade than it actually is? Thank you so much for watching and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you like the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

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