Ender 3 3d Printer Upgrades | 7 Easy 3d Printed Upgrades For Your Ender 3

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7 Easy 3d Printed Upgrades For Your Ender 3


So now we’re going to print seven 3d printable upgrades for your end of three [Music] [Music] so recently I reviewed this Cree a lady end of three and while not perfect. I found it to be a pretty good option for in the US. $200 as I said in my review. I think this printer is going to be immensely popular and already there’s a bunch of 3d printed upgrades available on Thingiverse and elsewhere on the Internet. I’m going to leave links in the descriptions to some great list of different updates you can do, and I’m also going to leave links to all of the Thingiverse files found in this video now the first one was already fitted. And I did that for my review. And that’s this fan cover here. It’s definitely a design flaw that by default, the fan faces up just near the bed and especially where the nozzle primes. There’s a fair chance that any loose bits of filament can fall down. Jam the fan or foul the electronics. This one was a pretty simple print, and I urge you to make that your very first Mod that you do to keep your printer running as well as it can. Let’s get on to these ones. All of these were printed in x3d. Pla and they’ve turned out really nicely. This printer didn’t really miss a beat doing any of them, except for the one that you see here, and that’s the last one. I’m going to fit because it’s the most involved, and that one I had to print a raft to stop from coming loose from the bed. Apart from that, the adhesion with the bed was almost too good as it had quite a bit of hacking to get everything off reading the comments of my videos. A fake buildtak surface is probably the number one issue that people have had with their printer. Now, in the meantime. Angus from Makers News released his review and he had a lot of trouble with the fittings here as well as the PTFE tubing. I’ve checked mine and I don’t have any wobble at all. If you’re one of the unlucky ones that has some loose fittings, fortunately, you’re in luck because it’s both cheap and easy to replace them. I’d recommend using parts from a reputable supplier such as a 3d right. Let’s go on to fitting these, and we’re gonna start with the easiest ones to fit. You might notice that when your printer is printing, the filament can get pulled on quite a steep angle from the filament into the extruder and this is less than ideal. So the first two mods that. I’m going to fit a filament guides. This first one is a fast and easy print and I’ve opted for the open version for convenience and all it does is slide on onto the metal part near the extruder, and it stops the filament from having the potential of rubbing on the lead. Screw for the z-axis. You notice a little triangle here only to do is line that up with the same part, and it simply slides on sitting flush clear of the extrusion here, and because I’ve opted for the one with the slot. All I have to do is bring it around, and that part is finished. The filament can still go in and out and it’s just held Probably five millimeters away from this lead. Screw just a little bit of peace of mind because it’s just a slide on fit. If you’re unhappy with the alignment, you can change that positioning very, very fast, although I don’t anticipate any vibrations or anything else will make this come undone for. There’s part one of the filament guide puzzle, but we haven’t really solved this problem of the filament even being pulled on this really tight angle. That’s where our next modification comes in. We have this little two-part ite’m, which replaces a little criolla t3d stopper to near the filament spool. Let’s get it fitted. First thing we have to do is take the small part and then the large part. And you’ll see that this. SWAT doesn’t go the whole way through, and we have a matching thing on here and all we have to do is align them and slide down until it clicks satisfyingly into place. Now it’s ready to fit to the printer now. The next stage is up here on the printer. The first thing we need to do is remove the little bug from the end, and then this one simply slots into its place. The flat side faces up, which curls out the path closer to where the filament will be. And all you should have to do is align it carefully and push to clip it in all done once again. I have opted for the version with the slight cutout. I think that’s so much more convenient, because now all I have to do is pop it through there and my filament, even when I try and pull it hard till has a nice, curved path on its way to the extruder. Now I would like to note that in the same thing averse link, there are some blanks, so you can start with these designer on your own modifications or stick things onto them, and I really appreciate how flexible the author of that file has tried to make that next up these little things. Now, if you remember in my initial review unless I loosened a couple of screws for the Z-axi’s, I had some binding [Music] the solution of loosening and does work that it’s not ideal. I found these on Thingiverse and they claim to offset the Z-axi’s extruder just enough to align everything. So you can have these nice and tight, so let’s try and get it fitted as far as I can tell, we only have to remove two screws and there. The black countersunk ones here, so lets. Get at our fix key and get that off. Okay, so I’ve got the bolts loose. And it’s time to fit the parts. A couple of little tips. Firstly, the fact that the cutouts is the one that sits up vertically against the extrusion. The other one is the one that sits underneath the stepper motor. So if you’re having trouble getting clearance and that means sliding all of this up little tip is you can just wind the lead access by hand, and that will lift the extruder up and down, So let’s fit this one first. We have these little ridges that are designed to fit in the extrusion. Clean that out! Slide it in part one done. We have the same ridges on this part and again. Our cutouts need to face up to clear the bolts. Let’s slide this one underneath into place. Bring the whole assembly back down and get our hex key and see if those bolts still line up. Yes, yes, they do excellent. I suppose the next logical step is to tighten the ones that I loosened previously. So let’s get that done. Turn on the machine and try and manually Move it up and down and see if it sticks. The problem seems pretty good, very promising the first time. I had them done up tightly when I started my review. It started to buy it immediately now. It might have loosened up a little bit from all the printing. I’ve done but either way This seems to be a good result and considering how skinny the parts are won’t. Take long to prints are definitely worth a shot now, one of the things. I really like about this printer. Compared to the CR 10 is the fact that the LCD control screen and knob is not mounted in a separate box. All the electronics integrated onto the machine, but there is one problem on the underside of here. We have the exposed LCD PCB, So you’re not likely to electrocute yourself with this, but it’s still a little bit untidy. Fortunately, there is a fix. And what’s really good about this file is if you’re one of those people that hates the buzzer sound. Well, there’s about three versions of this that have holes for the buzzer or a mound or attempt to cover it. So you can choose which one to suit your preference. I don’t mind the buzzer, so I’ve chosen the one with the hole, so let’s take off this and get it fitted underneath as far as I know, there’s only two hex bolts holding this on, okay, And this illustrates the problem so looking at the replacement part, there is one two three four holes and that matches one two three four bolts. So as far as I can tell all you need to do is to undo these and put this one on instead. Go overlying it up. It seems like we’re gonna need longer m3 hardware, fortunately. I’ve got a lot of that, but something to keep in mind before you try to fit this. I said it’s gonna hold that very snugly. Okay, that is all for fitted. I’m happy that everything’s on tight. There’s no wobble there. Let’s get it back on the machine, but firstly admire how much knee to the back of that is so if you’re reaching underneath to support and hold the knob, it’s now a little bit tidier. You’re not going to prick your fingers on any of the sharp snipped off items on the PCB beautiful. There’s a Mod that you can’t actually see, but I reckon is still worthwhile. Well, that’s five down, and that leaves one to go and our last one is perhaps the most significant and that is a substantial upgrade to the cooling system, so we’ll notice that by default, this printer comes with this little blower fan on the side and it jets across the nozzle from one side Only now, as I said earlier, this is the only one I had trouble printing. I printed it with some support in the middle, and I also had to print it with a raft because it kept on falling over and wasting filament. Fortunately, it didn’t go down because I had my cover on. There’s actually two parts to this Mod that you need to print, and there’s variations around that for us. We need to pick the one that has C our 10 in the name, and we have one part that goes over the fan, and I assume makes it a little bit smaller. Then the other part goes around that and mounts the blower on top, of course, it has its feeding holes on either side to improve the cooling. Let’s pull off the support material and then disassemble this and get it fitted just so that you know that this is a fairly challenging print. It’s got large bridges and quite steep overhangs, so it might need a little bit of cleanup like. I’ve just done here. I think now we’re ready to pull off the factory parts and see what we need to get this fitted. So I finished disassembling and I’ve done a little dummy fit so now. I’m confident I can show you the right way to do this. So we’re going to start with the new fan shroud, and we need to rotate that. So the large hole is in the top left and you’ll notice there’s a little cutout running down here. And that corresponds to the edge of the factory metal part. Here, that’s! What we need to do is pull the fan out of the way, get it roughly the right height and hook on this right hand edge, which can be a little bit tricky because it’s a tight clearance for the bolts. There she goes and now. I slide this down to align this hole. Take my Allen key and my bolt and I screw it back in now, it only does take one bolt, but because it secures itself the whole way down that right hand side, actually find this to be quite sturdy. There’s no wobble at all, and I’m confident that it’s going to work. Next thing we need to do is to get our fan. And if I tilt the printer, you’ll see that. I’ve got this nice cutout for the fan wiring to go down out of the way so it doesn’t get crushed. So now we’re going to use the factory bolts and we’re going to secure it back. I assume we’re not going to do this one here. We’re just going to do the other three. That should be plenty sufficient. Alright, that’s nice and secure as well time to fit the outer part of the design, so it’s always good to test. These things make sure there’s no obstructions. No part of the print that’s failed on the inside. It sounds pretty good now. This one we’re going to flip around, so the flat side is facing the front and we’re gonna slide it over the top and there’s two holes on this side and two holes on this side and this provision for it to slide up and down and I can see for me. I need my to slide as low as possible to line up with the nozzle instead of the actual heater block. Once it does that I can get my bolts and lock everything into place like the last thing we fitted. We are cutting the thread as we go, so just be careful until that thread takes and then use it. Allen, Key to get it nice and tight, so we’ve got the main ducting in place and once again, it feels quite tight. The next thing we have to do is put on the fan on top, so we look for the side with the opening it in nice and neatly, and then we reuse the tiny little m2 bolts and we screw it in from the rear to secure it. Back in place now. In my opinion, this is a really nicely designed part and let me tell you why one. Firstly, everything fit first go. Secondly, it retained all of the factory hardware, so you don’t need to go to the shops and get any different link bolts or anything like that. Thirdly, it’s got a range of accessories, so I printed two of them one of them. I’m going to fit. It pushes in from the top and gives you a place to cable tie. The wiring loom just to control it a little bit more, so let’s fit that next. Alright, so everything is fitted and I’m pretty satisfied with how it’s working so far, but really, we should do a quick test print and then give us a chance to cover the seventh modification and that addresses it often in the room, which is, of course, this unsightly ribbon cable going to the LCD that gives us a bonus print and that is a little clip that will hold this ribbon cable out of the way. Let’s set up a time lapse and get that done. Alright, that printed trouble-free as you would hope. Let’s remove them and get them fitted into place. All we should have to do is slide this back and then. I’m gonna pull the cable flat along here. I’m gonna get my first clip. That was super satisfying. Maybe another one here there. We go super easy to fit, And that makes lucky Mod number seven. Now a couple of honorable mentions. I did see a cable chain mod, which might be okay. I did have these cables at the back Snag once or twice cable tie. Fixed it for me, but if you want to put in the time to print a cable chain well. It’s gonna be a good solution as well now the other thing. I saw that I quite liked, but I was put off by how long it would take. The print is setting up a platform and draw in this vacant area here. What an ingenious idea and a great place to store tools hats off to that designer for coming up with that idea. You might have noticed this strange little bit sitting off to the side here. Well, that is bought a BL touch. I’ve got one sitting around ready for my Franklin Little project. But in the meantime, I’m happy to put it on this and run you through it. If you haven’t seen that end of three is now completely open source, which means the firmware is available but to flash that firmware. We need to install a bootloader so that video plus a be on touch we up coming in future hit that subscribe button, So you don’t miss a thing. In the meantime, Thanks so much for watching and happy 3d printing. Gday it’s! Michael, again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the Bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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