Does Pla Need A Heated Bed | My Steps For Creating A Successful 3d Print On A Non Heated Bed!

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My Steps For Creating A Successful 3d Print On A Non Heated Bed!


As you would have seen from my previous videos. I’ve had my fair share of success and failures since starting my journey in 3d printing so today. I thought I’d share this the procedures and steps that I take to ensure I have the best chance of creating a successful print. In addition to looking at the way I prepare for a print, We’ll do a test print and look at the curious settings are used for that particular print. We’ll also look at the result of that print and see how it measures up. Okay, let’s get started. The first step is to get yourself some isopropyl alcohol now. I couldn’t get any of that locally, so I went for a wax and grease remover from my local auto parts store as far as I can tell, it’s actually made from isopropyl alcohol and works very well at removing any grease or wax from your print bed, Give the printbed a good wipe down, making sure to remove any old print residue if the bed needs a little assistance drying. I just wipe it over with a clean, dry tissue. Once your bed is clean, it’s time to apply some spray adhesive. It’s the same procedure, spray some onto a tissue and apply it to the print bed. You don’t ever want to spray directly onto the print bed as the overspray will build up over time and make a mess of your printer. Now that your print bed is clean and tacky, It’s time for step 3 in step 3 We raise the printhead clear of the printhead. Navigate your way to the move setting and raised your printhead on the Z or Z axis, 15 millimeters is a good amount. Once the printhead is in position were ready for step 4 in step 4 We preheat the nozzle to 210 degrees and wiped a nozzle clean with a tissue or paper towel. If you’ve never done this before, you’ll be surprised how much gunk comes off that nozzle now, remember? That nozzle is very hot. So be careful not to touch it with your fingers. Once that’s done, we’re on to step 5 for step 5 we navigate to the quick settings in the menu and select cool down once the nozzle has had a chance to cool down. We can move on to step 6 which is leveling the bed when it comes to bed leveling after much experimentation. I have settled on a method which gives me the most consistent results and are now used feeler gauges the gap. I set my nozzle and print bed to is point Zero eight millimeters when fanning out the gauges are always make sure I can also see point zero seven and point zero nine as it’s very easy for two gauges to become stuck together and you can’t detect the extra thickness by field when slotting the feeler gauge in you want the gap to be enough so that you can feel the nozzle dragging on the feeler gauge when sliding back and forward you don’t want too much drag where the feeler gauge is starting to bend and you don’t want too little friction where the feeler gauge moves too freely. Now after adjusting the bed, always check that you can still slide to feel a gauge in if the fuel gauge is blocked from entering the gap is too small. If the gap is set correctly, you should be able to slide a gauge back in while still feeling some drag from the nozzle now that our bed is correctly leveled, it’s on to step seven and in step seven, We raised a printhead back up 50 millimeters. We do this in preparation for loading a print file when the nozzle is heading up, there’s a chance that some filament may start extruding, having that gap allows the filament to extrude and be easily removed and for our eighth and final step. We light a print file in this case, unloading a 20 millimeter test cube created in blender while this file is printing. We’ll look at the curious slicing settings. I have for this particular file and after the print is done, we’ll have a look at the finished result. Now after watching that you may be thinking, it’s a pretty complicated process, but if you’ve ever started a print army to watch it, warp and lift, you’ll appreciate spending those extra few minutes getting the job done right now. Let’s have a look at those. Kuro settings looking at the settings for my cube, We can see I have the layer height set to point zero six. The shell thickness is 0.4 which will give me one one layer as the the nozzle is a point four nozzle. The bottom thickness is 0.3 I wanted five layers on the bottom and top and five times point zero six. My layer height equals two point three fill density as it. Instead of 25 the ones a fairly dense infill, My print speed is 50 My printing temperatures 195 there’s no support and no platform adhesion type. If you look at the different options, we have there. We have brim and raft in platform adhesion type. If you leave that set to none, the Cure will default to a skirt type fill, which will put a perimeter around the edge of your model. My diameter is is 1.75 as my filament diameter and the flow is set to 100 now. I’ve made a few changes in the Advanced tab, mainly in the two changes, really the top and bottom speed. I’ve set to 15 instead of 30 I believe it was just to slow that down. I want that to really slow down and give a chance to bond to the bed. And the initial layer language I’ve set to 110 percent that was set at 100 also. I want that bottom layer to be a little a little bit wider other than that. The standard, the settings are the basic default settings that came with your cocoon, create curio software and the last option that we need to look at is the expert settings and from here, the changes. I make the said hop when retracting by default that’s set to zero, so I like to have that set to 0.075 just so lifts the printer nozzle as it’s moving to another part of the of the object and the other thing that I’ll change here from time to time. Is this Blackmagic setting spiralized the outer contour? What this does is switches the print to the phase mode, where it just is one continuous print at one continuous path that it follows to form the outside to print other than that. I leave all the other settings as they are. Actually, there is one other thing. I do we’ll go back to expert settings and that’s the skirt. I’ve set to a skirt line count to five the start distance three millimeters away from the object and minimal length of left at 150 So the skirt is what I prefer to print with nowadays rather than bring more raft. Once you have your bed adhesion down. Stick him very, you know, sticking pretty we’ll skirt for me. He seems to be the best option. Okay, so let’s take a look at the quality of this print corners, a nice and sharp, Everything’s printed really. Well, very happy with the bed adhesion and it’s looking good, but the real test will be to see how accurate blender was. I made this model in blender. At 20 millimeters cubed, so each side should be 20 millimeters in length. Let’s see how accurate blender and the cocoon create. Printer combined actually are 20 milliliters 20 millimeters 20 millimeters all sides measure at exactly 20 millimeters extremely accurate, very happy, Although this video is only 9 minutes long, it took many hours to make, but if it only helps one person, it will have been well worth it if you’ve made it this far. Thanks very much for watching. I hope it was a value to you and I’ll see you next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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