Transcript:
[music] Hello again! I’m just a guy who loves to make props and stuff and in this video. I’m building the SunShot hand Cannon from the game destiny every now. And then there comes a game that just has it all and for me, That’s the destiny games. I believe most of all because I love the design and the concept art, the space guns, especially they sort of have the same feel as concept cars and one of my favorites. The Sunshot. It could have been designed by Ellen Musk if you ask me. I did some research and found some good reference Pictures before I turn to Thingiverse. Of course there were several models out there and the one I landed on had a lot of community makes, which is always a good sign. The model was made by a guy named David aka artworks, and as time would sell, it was a really thought out and good model. He even included some step-by-step assembly illustrations. You can find the link to it down in the description. I printed out all the parts and laid them out on the table before I went over all the pieces to check for print errors and at the same time, I kind of plan out the build in my head. I like to believe it helps me make less mistakes during the build nevertheless. I made several mistakes during this. Build some of them. I put in the video so hopefully you don’t have to make the same mistakes next. I got out some materials and my favorite tools. I mostly use the Tamiya spot, buddy. To hide all my crimes and seams when working on 3d printing, it doesn’t smell much. It’s easy to work with, and it’s incredibly fast drying. I use a variety of small. I believe it’s called Spatulas to apply the cutting their own metal. So that super easy to clean off whatever leftover you have with a box cutter or even some standing paper to keep them smooth. I also use a range of files. When cleaning up 3d prints, they are incredibly handy and lots of sanding paper with different grits. I usually send a print down to about 400 grits, but for some super shiny parts and all the way down to about 1,200 grits, I also use some super handy nail files and a toothbrush to clean out some of the hard to get to places as I start the actual part of the belt. I should probably mention. I like to do a lot of the work to the pieces before I glue them together. I find it easier to handle this way. I give all the parts a good sanding before I start to apply the spot body. I lay it down kind of heavy, the first time around or thick that makes it look really messy before the second round of sanding once it’s dry and I sand it down. I use the files and a folded up sanding paper to clean out the lines that make up the ornament details. I find it if possible to get a good result up to just one go or at least. I’ve never made it happen, so I apply some more spot, buddy, and send it down again, then using different tools. I clean out the details and keep all the edges sharp, getting close to finish. It looks like this clean edges and bevel’s a smooth surface and no more printed lines. Of course. It’s nearly impossible to tell if you’ve done a good enough job before you paint it, so I like to give the parts A layer of primer. At this time, it tends to reveal all the time and sure enough. I could tell right away which parts that needed some more love who doesn’t love sanding, right. Unfortunately, it also revealed a series of small holes in the printouts. This would be the first sign of a big mistake. I made it turns out using leftover Cheap old filament isn’t a smart thing to do who knew having gone over the parts. One last time I could now glue it all together. I started by lightly sanding down the edges. That would get some glue. I even scored in some lines with a box cutter, so the glue would have more to bite into for the bigger parts. I use some five-minute epoxy. It’s super strong, and I supposed to superglue. It gives me just the right amount. It’s time to line up the parts correctly before I put on some clamps and, of course, it being a 5 minute epoxy. It cures fast so you can move on to the next part rather quickly, and it’s also more forgiving than superglue. If you get it on your hands, but it does smell a bit like poop. It’s important to get them perfectly lined up before attaching the clamps. If you have used too much glue on the parts, they may end up gliding away from each other, so keep an eye on them. Email with a clamps on for the first couple of minutes. If you mess up this part of the build. I believe it’s the only step which you don’t get a do-over. The parts line up nicely, of course. I have to use some spot party on all the seams to make it look perfect, but for now. I want to glue all the rest of the parts together [Music] [Music]! The whole thing was glued together in less than an hour. I have to say David, aka artworks. You’ve done a stellar work on this model. Unfortunately, on this last piece is where I really had issues. With the bad filament, the top flat part had sort of wrapped upwards. It had a sort of a bend to it. I really should have just printed out a new part. But instead I decided to try and salvage it by gently heating it up and then pushing it back to shape again. I put some wedges in the front gap so that I could apply pressure by gluing it in place that seemed to be a smart solution or at least until I glued on the last piece an hour ago. It was a perfect fit, but apparently this filament shrinks a lot when apply heat, Even as carefully as I was. I had to use a lot of spud body to cover that up, but eventually that mistake was fixed fully assembled. The hand cannon was quite a bit bigger than I expected, but I don’t mind. It looks awesome. The barrel was also finished up and then it all got a final coat of primer now. It definitely looks awesome. I likely went over the whole prop with a fine sanding sponge. This is to prevent the paint from peeling off over time that has happened to me before, especially when airbrushing with a lot of thinner or reducer in the paint. I wanted a really shiny new feel to this prop, so it was all going to be airbrushed mainly with some. Tommy acrylic paints but also with some abilities pressed enamel paint. I’ve never used that before, and also I’ve never airbrushed a whole prop before, and I’m really looking forward to airbrushing this piece, especially if I can pull off that burnt metal look. This first part was pretty straightforward, just some flat black paint and no masking the barrel also got to say treatment before. I applied a coat of matte varnish. I was looking for that. Matte finish. I believe that’s going to look so cool against a high glossy gold paint that I wanted for the top of the barrel. I do believe that some of the secret to getting a good result when airbrushing like this is doing a good job with the masking, so for masking, I use a variety of tapes. You got your standard blue masking tape, which doesn’t stick all that. Well, which is a good thing when you’re handling relatively fresh paint and then there’s my favorite, The white elastic one, which is perfect for round corners and small details and Lastly. I use some plastic wrapping film, which is grateful, masking off larger areas quickly. There’s really no secret to the masking. Just take your time, be precise and make sure the corners are sticking down well, when it was time for the gold paints. I still wasn’t sure which type of paint I would use. I knew I wanted to shiny. Look, so I did some tests. Unfortunately, the Spray-can version that I decided on wasn’t the best option another mistake. I guess the paint was all runny and saggy. It even started to form some shades because it was eating up the primer. Even the spot party underneath. I guess this is a do-over, a quick time off and some sanding later and I was ready to do it the right way this time. I’m sticking with just the Tamiya paints. This paint was actually recommended to me by a maker named cosplay Tinker, and I have to say it’s wonderful to airbrush with. I have to say airbrushing With this enamel paint was super easy, and it came out looking amazing, and then it’s Christmas unwrapping It again is one of my favorite parts, and then it was time to mask it off again for the final base color. I used the plain white Tamiya acrylic paint for this and it’s really just the same technique as the others first, a light dusty coat just to get the color to grab on, and then a couple of thick, wet layers to get it smooth and even and then the bad filament came back to haunt me again. It turns out even with two layers of primer a couple of days of curing. Somehow, it managed to sift through the color and the white was now looking pink, but I wasn’t going to give up on this piece. So after a second time out, I sanded the whole thing down again, and then I gave it a thick coat of some varnish just to try and seal it in before applying the white again, I left it to cure overnight and it seemed to have worked, so the next step was to seal it with some matte varnish and just as it was about to be Christmas again. I got a third time out during this build this time. It was totally my mistake. I had masked off the gold paint too early and the plastic wrapping film had left marks all over the paint job. I guess every now, and then you get a prop built that he just struggled a lot with and those are the builds. You learn the most from isn’t it, anyways? I did some wet, sanding some more airbrushing and a couple of coats of brilliant varnish, and then it was finally time to try out that burnt metal. Look, still sticking with just the Tamiya paints. I started out with a black collar, which I added a lot of reducer to. That’s because I wanted the gold base color to shine through more on the edges. I went slowly with the airbrush and just added a little paint at a time. I kept slowly building up some lines from the center of the barrel. I kept them going in different directions from vertical to slightly backwards, then filling in those lights again. They became triangles or sort of arrows then went upwards and backwards once. I was done with a black color. I started adding in some Reds on all the edges. Then I followed up by adding some bronze silver that was to add some lights again, then airbrushing in some metallic glue over the light bronze color. I was hoping to get in some bright blues and that the black parts would get that shiny, but still matte dull. Look, kind of the same. Look, you would get from rubbing some graphite powder on the matte black color when going for that burnt metal look. I believe you usually go for brighter colors as take the red blues and greens and so forth, but I wanted a different look with a lot of soot going all the way along the barrel, just as if it had given over a lot of exhaust while being used, I painted on some more details, and then it was time for the final part. The weathering the plan was never to go too heavy on the weathering of this prop. But I needed some more shades and dirt on this piece to really sell the look. Now, how would it look naturally so? I spent a couple of minutes planning it out before I started. Of course, I went with some oil pans for this piece, and I started by smoothing or blending out some of the edges that was masked off earlier. They look too sharp then. I brushed on some Brown earthy colors in the places I wanted before wiping most of it up again not to go too heavy on the weathering, It’s a good tip to stop and really look at the piece and see if you’re going in the right direction, you can always add more, but it’s hard to go back again, and then I just repeated this process and all the places that made sense to me [Music] in the end, it was looking really good and I could finally call. It finished [Music] [Music] [Music]! Yeah, I’m not one for running around the house with a toy gun or am. I one things for sure. I love this piece and I love taking pictures of my props and even playing around with some special effects. And that was it for this video. I hope you liked it and if so, make sure to subscribe and hit that Bell and I will try and share my next build with you. Thanks for watching.