Destiny 3d Print Gun | How To 3d Print Destiny Guns On A Small 3d Printer

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How To 3d Print Destiny Guns On A Small 3d Printer


Hey, guys! Burt, here with a new project from Pixel Armory. So I’ve had people ask me. How do I take really big 3d prints and then slice it up and get it to print out and get such good quality by the way. If you’re hearing a whole bunch of cracking and loud thudding, There’s a monsoon going on outside right now. So I’m sitting in my apartment listening this and watching it, go on outside. Hopefully I don’t blow away. So if I continue throughout the video, hopefully everything’s great anyway. So there’s a lot of different places to get 3d models, especially for a lot of Destiny’s Guns that I get now. Anything that you can use in destiny, a weapon or armor you can get from what they call the Destiny STL generator. Now the Destiny Stl generator extracts the 3d meshes from the app that you can get on your phone and it’s very straightforward, and I’m gonna go ahead and I’m going to show you guys how to do it now. First things first, though my 3d printer, My regular 3d only has a maximum build height of 210 millimeters. I never build that tall. Just because the higher you build something. Generally, you end up having layers shift a little bit and you can get some poor printing. I’ve never run into that, but just to be on the safe side. I always go down to 200 millimeters for each height Whenever I cut something up. So what I’m gonna do now is I’m gonna show you guys where I go to get a lot of my 3d models for destiny and how I import them and slice them up and then ultimately 3d print them. So what we’re gonna do now is we’re gonna switch to my desktop view here, so I’m gonna go ahead and make the for the people legendary Auto rifle. So I’m gonna type in for the and here It is just like that, and we go ahead and hit generate now. Whenever you import something in generated, you’re gonna get two options. One is gonna be to have the entire model. One solid, watertight piece. The second is going to be where all the individual meshes are separate, so this really only applies if you’re downloading a piece of armor and you want to break apart the armor to print individual pieces, that’s the only time. I would really suggest to download them in individual pieces. So if we look here, we’ve got, and then we’ve got individual. I’m gonna go ahead and it for the people for just the single file. Then we’re going to go ahead and hit Netfabb now. I use netfabb basic. It is a free slicer software that I’ve gotten, you know, off the Internet. It works very, very well, and after you cut each piece, you can use a repair function to fix each piece, so then you can just go ahead and you’ll make sure it’s watertight before you print it so. I’m gonna go ahead, okay, now, because I’m using the free version, It always asks me. Who would you like to update No ID. It would not like to pay $300 for the full version because I don’t need it. Wait, 10 seconds, then you hit later and do you want these meshes to become separate? No, and here we have the legendary auto rifle for the people, so the model is currently not exactly watertight. You’ll have to repair each piece after you slice it, but all in all there it is and all the auto rifles. I found actually import with this weird scope that you can get from certain guns in the game. I don’t ever use it because I think it’s ugly and it’s big and dumb looking, so I’m gonna go ahead and slice that off later on. But first things first click on the model. It’s gonna be highlighted in green and down. Here is your cuts manifest, so you’ve got everything. Go ahead and hit reset, so you got your Z axis, your y axis and your X Axis, So what we want to do Is we want to go ahead and use our X Axis? Go to the very front now. I know that I can only print something. A maximum of 200 millimeters tall. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to go ahead and say, okay. The maximum is at seven fifty eight point nine, seven. So I’m just gonna turn that into a five and right there. I’ve got a 200 millimeter piece. Go ahead and an execute, cut and cut just like that. Then we go back to the front again. Oops, hit. X bring alloyed back up and then I’ll just make that a 300 now what I’m doing is I’m working in multiples of 200 and that’s really the best way that I’ve always found to do it because it makes everything go together really, really, really nicely. However, if you noticed, were gonna end up starting to slice the scope here and I want to get rid of this thing, so what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna go ahead and hit Reset. We’re gonna take our Z axis here. We’re gonna bring this all the way up. I’m gonna zoom in now as you can see here. The blue, it’s touching the top of this rail here, which means it’s gonna slice off a small piece of that. So we’re just gonna hit this here and it’s gonna give me small increments until boom. There we go. It’s not touching the rail anymore, so I can go ahead and execute cut and cut there. We go right, click hit. Remove, yes. I want it going boom there. We go now. We’ve got the auto rifle. At all, its glory. This will print out and it won’t be a big deal. I’m gonna go ahead and just print a pair of like iron sights and slap them on there and it’ll look perfect. So here we go. We’ve got the model. First part is already cut. Now we’re gonna take and we’re gonna start slicing more of it, so we’re gonna go ahead and do a second factor of 200 so we’re gonna make this 300 execute cut and cut, and there we go. We’ve got 2 pieces and then for the third piece were gonna go ahead and hit the next factor of 200 which would make this just 1 and there we go another 200 millimeter section. Execute cut and cut. So now we’ve got our fourth factor. So what we want to do now is oddly enough. We’re just gonna move done. There’s a really big storm going on outside. So what we’re gonna want to do? Is we’re going to do a negative factor of 800 now. Obviously, if we were to go 800 below, this, we’re actually going to have then negative right there. Negative 4.2 and if you look back, it was that 58 well opposite of 58 for when you go to a negative, you actually go backwards, Then it before to negative 4.2 but if you look here we’re only cutting a small factor of the back of the stock, and we don’t necessarily want just a small piece like that. So what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna go ahead and make it just a little bit bigger, but I don’t want to be catching the lip right there, so we’ll go right there hit, execute, cut and cut that, and I’ll explain in a moment why I did that once. It gets done, all right, so here we go. We have a piece that is 181 millimeters tall, and now we have a piece here that is 240 millimeters tall. Now the reason I want to do, This is for the buttstock is this is actually going to receive quite a bit of punishment as far as force That’s gonna be exerted on it, so I want to slice this then in half, so we’re gonna take our reset this, or I take our x-axi’s so we’re gonna slice it right about there That was so we’re not going across any diagonal or inclines and then we’re gonna hit execute cut again and cut now the reason. I want to take this is. I want to take these two pieces. I don’t make these a higher percentage of infill than the rest of it in order to make it more durable. Now we’ve got two pieces here that you know are very similar. However, if you look at this piece, we’ve got a 230 millimeter height, it says, but technically. I would be laying that on 90 degree angle, so it’s gonna be too big to print on my print bed. So one of my new is I’m gonna click. It hit reset and then we’re gonna hit our Z Axis. Bring it! Oh, excuse me, right up here to the middle, and then we’re gonna hit. Execute cut now. What we’re gonna do is we’re going to separate. These two pieces said it’s not as big of a print because we’re printing empty air in here, otherwise now. This is the part you have to watch out for. If you screw this up, it’s gonna mess the whole model up. You have to hit only selected parts. You have to hit that otherwise. It’s gonna slice that entire length of the model, and it’s gonna screw up all your pieces and then hit execute cut and there we go. These pieces are now separate and then we’re gonna do the same thing here. So hit reset z-axis want to go just above the trigger group, execute cut only selected parts and cut. I mean, give it a moment. There we go and then we’re gonna want to do the last piece now for here. I’m just gonna cut it right above the beta mag or ammo drum or whatever. You want to call it right there. I’m gonna go ahead and execute cut only selected parts and cut and just like that. We now have a fully ready to be. Yeah, sorry a fully ready to print 3d model of a legendary auto rifle from destiny. So we’ve got 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8 pieces now. The next part you have to do, you have to do it. It’s just like selecting only cut the selected parts. You have to do this for each piece. Click on each piece and hit this little cross up here. Now what you want to do? Is you want to repair it? Now you see where there’s this little highlighted piece here That indicates that the model has been found to not be watertight in this particular area right here, so you’re gonna go ahead and hit automatic repair and execute. Now you see how it’s green. That means it’s repaired it apply repair and this is gonna change color now. And there you go, and you’re gonna want to do this for each piece, and it’ll find pieces on each piece that aren’t perfectly watertight. Rarely do you find models that aren’t, you know already perfect, especially after slicing, but what we’ll do is we’ll go ahead and hit repair all of them. All right, and we’re back, so we’re gonna keep repairing all these pieces now on. I’m gonna do is I’m just going to go ahead and fast forward to the very end of where we end up, importing these pieces then and saving them to then put them into our 3d printing program to then generate the g-code. Alright, 15.0 4.2 I found this to work exceptionally well. The newer version is a little bit goofy, and I don’t like it, so I use the older version because I stick with what works, so here’s my basic settings, You know, 3 300 microns now, you know? Phil density is at 6% I found 6% to be more than sufficient. It makes the parts very strong yet very light 20% unless you’re planning on bludging someone to death with this stuff. You don’t need 20% It’s gonna waste so much material in so much time. I mean, you will literally double, if not more than double the amount of material and time you’re using if you upgrade or increase the fill identity passed, you know? I’d say 6% you go to 20% like a lot of programs suggest. If you look here, it says when you highlight this, it says 20% that’s that’s just nuts. The halo 5 railgun that I made. I made a 20% and thing is so heavy. I don’t even want to carry it. And I feel like if I was a drop. It would probably break my foot, so I don’t use 20% Just no need for it, so we’re gonna go ahead here. Now it hit load and I’ve gone ahead and I’ve already named a lot of these pieces, so we’ll go ahead and trigger group here. We go, so we’ve got the trigger group now. The very important part of 3d printing is making sure that a flat area with a lot of surface area, preferably the most surface area is facing on the build plate that way. So you have the best chance of strong and Heavin. So we’re gonna go ahead and turn it that way now. I know that this little X, You know, marker here means that that is a front left part of my table. My print table. Somebody go ahead and I’m going to turn this and Ill. Explain why, now, whenever your 3d printing your bed is going to move on the y-axi’s back and forth and then the print head moves on the x-axis and then it has the z-axi’s, which is going up and down, so as your print bed is moving back and forth, you’re going to have force. That’s going to be exerted on your 3d print, having it going in line parallel with the move and its overall length will give you a lot more strength and better quality through your print. If you turn that sideways, you could end up getting layer shift as you get higher in your 3d print doing it. This way ensures that your 3d printing layers sent evenly on top of each other and you don’t have any what we call wobble, cuz wobble is bad, especially if you’ve seen it and you’ve dealt with it, it’s bad so we can go ahead now and we can see that we’ve got seven and a half hours at 165 grams. Now there’s a few things to know when 3d printing know when to use a brim and know when to use a support type and what type of support type to use now because of the amount of surface area this 3d model has. I don’t need to use a brim. No, I will explain to what brim is in here. You click on your. View mode and always go to layers and check every single model. You print with this before you print it that way, so you know, for a fact, it’s watertight. Otherwise, you’re gonna possibly have horrible prints, and you’re gonna waste a lot of material and a lot of time it’s gonna be very frustrating and you’re not gonna like it, so we can see here that the 3d print is looks like it’s solid from top to bottom. If I was missing a piece you would see like just a section just totally missing. Just just be thin air. That’s not good, so we can see from top to bottom the 3d prints there, and if we scroll all the way down here we can see. There’s the 6% infill 6% infill That’s more than enough unless you’re really expecting to use this and now action movie or something 6% is more. If you want to use more than 6% be my guest. I don’t think you really need to so and then. If you look around the model, you can see this blue line here. That’s the brim now. If you’re having trouble getting a 3d model to adhere to the bed brim is a very good choice and the more layers. The the better. And I’ll show you how to change that quick. If you go to expert settings, you can change the brim line. Count to whatever you want. I generally use around 40 if I’m using something that it’s very narrow and very tall, but for something that’s large like this, I have no need to use it, however, because I am 3d printing. Something that’s got an open space. Here I am going to use. I guess there’s a lot of well. There’s a lot more rain coming. Oh, no! I like its hail it’s! Hailing outside great. You’re sure that’s great for my car. So support type. I’m going to use everywhere. And this is means that it’s going to 3d print supports on the actual model itself. These are very easily removed and then you can just take a little bit of sandpaper to it, and a lot of the pieces will fly off and that’s no big deal and then you can you end up cleaning it up a little bit and you can get a really good 3d model out of it, so I’m gonna go ahead and delete this and import another. This one’s a little tricky as you can see. You’ve got this big overhang. You know, arm here, and then you have to decide, okay. Well, what piece do? I use. As the piece that’s touching the bottom. Well, that’s a tricky piece, so that’s actually quite easy to do, so you go ahead and turn it 90 degrees and I’m gonna go ahead and turn this 90 degrees, so it’s parallel with the movement of the printbed right, click Center on platform, and then I’m just going to check and see what the material usage in print time is. If you don’t want to use as much material, you may find that there is a way that prints with a lot less material and uses a lot less time and trust me time and money when 3d printing is something you want to minimize. Believe me, you don’t want to minimize it. Alright, so it looks like we got sixteen and a quarter hours at three hundred and forty six grams. That’s good, and we’ve got our support type for everywhere, but then let’s go ahead and flip It 180 degrees and let’s just see which way works better and you’re looking ultimately for a less print time and less material usage. It shouldn’t really matter if you have your printer tuned. Right which way you do it. The support material should be able to work with whatever you’re working with. So as long as you’ve got, it tuned correctly and you treat your printer well and be sure to clean it up periodically. You shouldn’t have any trouble switching it around, so we’ve got 16 and a quarter at 3:46 let’s see what the new settings will be 18 hours at 372 well. I’m pretty sure that’s a definitive eight, so that the other way worked best. So what you ol? N One is just go ahead and switch it back to the other way. Go ahead and check to make sure all the layers are there and that the printer, but the print is watertight and then go ahead and hit save and go ahead and 3d print. So what I’m gonna do now is I’m gonna go ahead and end the video here and in the next video. I’m gonna go ahead and show you the pieces that I have printed out for the for the people and go through. You know how you know a little bit too tidbits about that, and then the assembly and overall finishing of it so. I hope you guys have enjoyed this instructional video of how to 3d print large items on a small 3d printer. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them. Don’t forget to hit that subscribe and favor buff button. We’d love to hear from people, and, you know, see that people are taking an interest in our Channel and until next time I’m Bert from Pixel Armory. Take care, guys.

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