Cura Settings For Ender 3 | Ender 3 Pro Cura Setup (the Basics)

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Ender 3 Pro Cura Setup (the Basics)


Hey, guys! Rob here at 3d print scape. I want to show you how to set up your cure profile to work with the other end or three. I’ve got an indoor three pro here, so that’s. What we’re going to focus on before we get started on that? Go ahead and smash that like button and subscribe and let’s jump over to the computer. All right, now that we’re at the computer. Let’s go ahead and set up our profiles in Keira. First thing we’re gonna want to do is download Keira, so let’s go to open a browser and do that just go ahead and search for a cure or download. Let that autofill and go to your first one here. And depending upon what OS you’re using, it will change what it’s recommending. I’m just using Windows, so just go to download for free. I would not recommend going with the beta version go with the latest stable, which, in this case is 4.5 I said go ahead and download that, alright? Now that that’s downloaded, we’ll go ahead and launch the Installer. We had to give admin rights just in case. You missed that. I guess I opened it twice, so let’s close out on one of these. Sorry about that. I have to just walk through the Installer here. Accept the License Agreement. Choose your install location. Just leave it default unless you have a reason to change it. All right, And while that’s installing, make sure you guys smash that, like button and subscribe once this is actually installed. What we’re gonna do is we’re gonna add our printer in there. Go through. Some of the settings, go through some of the settings that I typically use talk about supports briefly and then go into layers. Alright, looks like that. Install is done. So the goal of this is going to be to have a more of a baseline. Profile printers can be different based on your settings. How you have a tweak the film that you’re using, so what? I’m trying to provide here is a good starting point and you might have to make adjustments from there. All right, so let’s go ahead and get started. Agree to the license that everybody obviously reads next. Alright, next now. I don’t have a network printer, so I’m gonna add a non-network printer. This is what it’s gonna look like. If you go and do the install the first time. I uninstalled Kirra so I can walk through this as a fresh install. Alright, so we have the indoor three pro, so let’s go ahead and find that it’s gonna be under. It’s gonna be here then. We’re gonna want to choose the indoor three now. As far as your cure your slicer settings, there’s really no difference in the base profile between your the indoor three and two indoor three. Pro so whichever one you’re using, it doesn’t matter. Just select indoor three. There will be some adjustments that you’ll want to make in the profile itself, But I’m gonna tune this towards the end or three Pro. Alright, so next, alright, so just review your settings here. Make sure everything makes sense. You got your X and y axis Y or Z height. Make sure that the heated bed is checked and the origin at Center is not checked. Our auto home goes to the front and left. So if we tried to use the origin at Center, it will be printing the actual object, based on if it was at the center. So be towards the back, right, I believe might be wrong on that, but it will be in a different spot on the bed, all right, and then I’d never messed with these g-code settings here, so just go ahead and leave those as they are, right and go ahead and hit next, and if you have a Ultimaker account, you can sign in for this example. I’m not going to, I’m just gonna hit finish. Alright, so now we’ve got our base profile in here. Let’s go ahead and take a look at some of the default settings. One thing I like to do is I go here. I go to custom just to get more visibility into all the settings, and then I go to this hamburger menu here and then go to advanced. I like to adjust some of the miscellaneous settings, So it just makes it easier because I can see everything. Alright, so starting at the top with your profile or your quality, This is gonna be your layer height. Most prints are gonna be at point Two millimeters. You could if you’re looking for higher quality, you could reduce it down to point one six or even point one two. Just make sure that whatever you’re choosing, or if you’re modifying this that it’s divisible by your nozzle size, so right, now we’re using a point four millimeter nozzle, so go into your standard quality, five times or four times for dynamic or three times for super as you can see, so go ahead and keep that on standard. We’ll go and walk through each one of these. Alright, so layer height is one that I typically don’t change here. I’ll keep this based on what its show shows for the actual profile because it’s directly linked to the profile. So if we switch to super, it’s gonna change your height again, so line with, I’m not changing top and bottom line with, I’m not changing so really. I’d leave this section as it is jumping down into shell. If you’re wanting a really thick wall, you can adjust that here. The wall thickness is going to be a multiple of your nozzle so again. We’ve got a point four millimeter. So if we have three walls of three lines, you’re going to have one point two. I’m going to go ahead and actually, I’m gonna leave that there. I go back and forth between two and three, but we’ll leave it at three here. It’s for most things I’m printing. It makes the most sense anyway. I threw your top layers. If you like a really thick top layer, you can adjust this. I’m doing, I typically will leave these at forward for both of them. Sometimes I will increase the bottom to five. It’s just depending upon what I’m printing, but most of the time you’re gonna be good with four on both of these, you could probably get away Three two. It will save a little bit of time on the print itself as well. All right, and I will leave that at that for your shell for infill. It depends on what you’re printing and what the requirements of the print or if you’re just printing some sort of model or many figure. I would go with ten or twenty percent. I’ll just drop this to ten percent now. Then it will adjust all of these accordingly for your infill pattern. I’ve been doing divert it a lot. It’s a really strong infill, and it looks pretty cool as it’s being printed. If you want to see what all of the infos look like, you can check out my video. I’ll link it below, but I did. I printed out all of these on a coaster and I remove the top layer, so you can actually see where all the in fills. Look like, and that’s gonna be everything for our shell. All right, so next is going to be material. This is gonna be your actual printing temperature of both the hot end and of the build plate. PLA can vary vastly based on the brand, so starting at about 200 is a good starting point. If you want to get a very specific one for the filament that you’re using most often, you’re probably going to want to print a temperature tower. I’ll be creating a video on that in the next couple of weeks, but like I said, leave this at 200 as a starting point, and then I’ll bump this up to 65 for your build plate temperature and that just has worked better for me overall and again this is for PLA. If you’re printing with ABS, it’s going to change entirely, but we’re not going to go with that right now. All right, so now for your speed. This printer does pretty good at 50 millimeter A second. You might want to drop it down to 40 If you start to see any issues, but I’m just gonna leave this at 50 for now. Our next section is going to be travel. There are a couple things. I like to change in here. The coaming mode. I will set to all and then make sure avoid printer parts when traveling is enabled. What this does is, it’ll help with scarring If you have a flat surface that is exposed. If you don’t have it set this way, you’re gonna get lines that go across almost like a scratch or a scar, so this will help with that. All right next. We’ll go to cooling the indoor. Three does have a fan. So you want to make sure that you are enabling it and that you set the Max fan speed to a hundred percent, but I would leave all these settings as they are. All right next well. Go down to support unless you’re printing something that needs support. Go ahead and leave it disabled. And if you’re printing something that does need support, there are a couple options, such as your infill pattern, the placement, where they’ll just be touching build plate or everywhere with the standard supports. I have issues getting it off of the print without causing damage, So I’ve been playing around with the new support type. It’s under experimental, but it’s called tree support. I’ll show you where that’s at. I would recommend just playing around that. See how it works, but it’s been easier to actually get the support off. It’s not touching the entire actual model everywhere and it’s hollow, so it reduces the print time, so I’m going to uncheck that now. Let’s go down to build play adhesion. I will pretty much always do skirt. I think I’ve only played with raft once or twice. I’ve never done Bramma. What does what is skirt does is just creates a single line or in this case, three lines around the outside of the object itself, and that helps purge the you nozzle head and get any imperfections out of there and it just makes it so that when it actually starts the print, you’re at an even consistent layer. Alright, dual extrusion. We only have four. This printer only has the one extruder, so it’s that’s not too important here, all right, special modes. Just make sure that all that once is selected. That’s the only thing you have to worry about here. Alright, then going down to experimental. I’ve been playing around with use adaptive layers, So I’ll make sure that that is checked and then also this is where you would be able to see that you support as well. I don’t have that enabled, but if you just go up here on type of tree, that’ll come up and then you can see all the default settings. I find I’m using tree support. It’ll just be with the default settings, so I don’t change any of that, so let me go ahead and just disable that, and then let’s go ahead and drop an object in here. It’s just a waving! Groot, just so we can show you this slice time. Alright, so if we go ahead and go to slice, this does take a little bit longer. Cuz it’s a taller object, all right, and then while that’s slicing like. I said, make sure you smash that, like button and subscribe. It’ll help us out now. The slicing time varies based on the object itself. Obviously more complex objects will take longer to slice. But it also depends on your computer as well. This is a decent computer. I’m running on so it should be quick, but for some of these larger objects, I have seen it take a while, but typically no more than a minute. All right, so it looks like that’s almost done, so this will take about 17 hours to print and use 83 grams of filament, which is not awful one thing. I did want to show you since we’re here. If you have an object that is too large, you can always scale it, so let’s just say if we made this bigger than the build plate itself, so it looked like this as you can see In this case, the head would be sticking out and so would the part of the fingers, so you would just go to our scale and then set a Z percentage. So if you’re this, let’s just say this was 100% and you wanted to make it smaller. You can drop it down to 75% but we’ll just go back 100% on this just to use as an example when you change that, though you will have to resize, so let me go ahead and do that and while. I’m going over that I should have talked about this as I did it. But when I made the group figures larger as you saw, it kind of went underneath the build plate and sometimes if you’re making it smaller, it’ll go above the build plate and leave a gap, the easiest way to fix that is to go to edit and reset model position so that just put it back where it was. There’s also a plugin that I would recommend installing as well, so let’s go to marketplace really quick, while that’s slicing. Sorry, computers thinking it’s this settings guide, so go ahead and click on it and go to install what that does is. It’s a guide that you can open up, and it will basically outline all of the settings that are there. I’ll restart here in a minute to show you what it looks like because you do have to restart when you install any plugins if you’re gonna be installing more than one plug-in, just go ahead and close out of this and then just install all of them that you need and then go ahead and restart. Alright, so lets. Just go over to preview. I’ll kind of show you what this looks like now. All right, so let’s go ahead and zoom in and rotate up, so we can kind of see the layers here. This has nine hundred and sixty two layers as you can see. The hand touches here, and then the feet do as well and as you’re going up, It starts to create that gyroid, which is a very strong infill pattern even at ten percent. This thing is going to be pretty solid. You’re starting to get some bridging issues here, so I would be enabling support if I were sprinting this. Yeah, you’re really gonna want to support this arm really, but I’m just going through looking to make sure nothing stands out. There’s a baby. Yoda, figure where you’ll see the fingers on one of the layer that they’re completely separated from the actual print as an example, so that would just be a stringy mess. If you don’t have supports, so I’m just looking for things like that. Which in this print it looks okay, so I would go and save it and send it over to the printer and print it, so let’s go ahead and restart Curacao. I can show you that plug-in. All right, cure is back up now if you’d like. I can export all the settings and either put them in a file linked and comment below or just put the settings in the comments below. Just let me know, and if you have any settings that you recommend or if you think would be a good addition to what we’ve gone over. Please leave a comment as well. Alright, so let’s go to extensions or set up our settings guide and select that so here, let’s go to shelf, for example, and the wall, it goes into details of what this actually does with diagrams, which is really nice or going down to infill. Let’s say you wanted to look at the different infill patterns. You can see here what the grid does lines, your triangles and trihex etc. All of your cubics your octet. And then it kind of gives a nice description of what all of them are so this is a really good reference. If you’re ever questioning any of the settings, I would always go back and look here. I did want to show you one thing. On some of the experimental things, let’s say tree support as an example, they added it in 4.5 but I’m one of the previous versions. It wasn’t here so it would just be blank. It pretty much means that it’s too new, and they don’t have documentation. You’ll see that first of the actual brand-new settings that they’re playing around with it. Looks like they’ve gotten better and 4.5 but I’m sure that you will end up seeing some of them that don’t have the references, but yeah. This is a great resource. I would recommend spending some time in here. Just going through all of the settings just to familiarize yourself with what they are and what they’re for. All right, guys, so there you have it. You should now have a profile that’s going to work with your indoor three pro. Make sure you leave a comment below. If you make if you have any other recommendations around tweaking that profile. Just help us all out, but that’s what. I’ve been currently running with Make sure you guys smash that, like button and subscribe. It’ll really help us out and thank you. See you next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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