Looking for a budget resin printer. Cree allottee enters the game with the LD. W R [Music] [Music]. In the last year. This means an explosion in resins ready printers in the price range of around 200 to 300 Us dollars now! It seems every manufacturer is in the act. The market is saturated and now. Cree Allottee has an offering -. It’s not actually their first with the LD, double zero one and others on sale as well, but for this one, it seems to be a proper attempt with a whole lot more marketing. So here we are with my review and we’re going to start by looking at the specs, unboxing and setup. Let’s explore the Cree, Ala, TLD double zero -. Our resin printer bursting up front is the price at 270 It’s a little bit more than a lot of other budget offerings, But I guess they’re banking on their reputation. You will probably find it on sale cheaper than this sooner rather than later, like most printers. At this price point, it has a 2k resolution screen, which means a resolution of 2560 by 1440 pixels. The actual print size is 119 by 65 millimeters by 160 millimeters tall. The LCD also supports anti aliasing. As we see on a lot of these printers. It has linear rails for the Z motion system, but something that does stand out here is air purification system. It claims to have double fans and an active carbon filtering system to deodorizer odor from the resin. The other key item here is the UV LED light source and it features a 2×2 array with the aim of distributing the light more evenly. This printer was well packaged and was ready to go in five minutes because there’s no assembly. Besides the printer, Mine came with a scraper, A filter, a user manual, some gloves and a face mask. Cooling fans are common for the UV LEDs in these. But the fan noise here surprised me as you can see and here. The fans are on anytime the power cable is connected, regardless of the main power Switch on the front of the machine. My initial impressions were that this was a well-made and sturdy machine. The acrylic cover tented to block out? UV light from pre during the resin looks injection molded and is extremely sturdy with a wall thickness of 4 to 5 mils, the build plate releases with a single screw and the VAT with two screws one either side. It’s worth noting that mine was pretty dusty underneath, and I needed to clean it before I started printing. I also cleaned the LCD and for this, I used a special cleaner and microfiber cloth with resin printers before I pour in any resin. I like to verify that Everything is working so with the VAT knot in place I put in the USB thumb drive. Which is a welcome addition instead of an SD card and located nicely at the front left of the machine and started the Test G-code file, which seemed to be eight pillars. I powered down the machine to cancel the print but found when I power it back on the LCD screen no longer responded to my touches that meant opening up the case to see if there was anything obviously wrong inside the mainboard runs from a 32-bit. ARM processor and I couldn’t find any loose connectors, which means when I powered back on the machine. The screen still wasn’t working. This did magically fix itself later on, and I haven’t had the issue since I printed a range of models with quite good results, but before we look at that, I like to discuss my particular testing unit and its relationship to the slicer. This seems to be an early machine, Perhaps pre-production. It has a perforated build platform where others receiving their machines have a smooth plate. Now this printer uses Qi to box as its lights up, And when I receive this, there was no profile setup for the El Diablo to our. This is despite the fact that this model was for sale for paying customers, The solution for me was to use the photon printer and resin profiles and then to rename the dot photon file to DOT CBD DLP. Midway through my printing review, a new version of – – box came out with support for the El Diablo. – are this profile outputs dot CTB files, which seemed to work fine for everyone else on the Facebook group for this print. But for me gives me an error. I guess I’m running a different version of the firmware and I’m stuck using the photo and profile and renaming the file while these things were frustrating for me. No one else seems to be publicly complaining about it. So hopefully these issues are related to only this machine and future buyers won’t have to encounter them. Chichi box is quite competent. It’s come a long way since last. I used it, you can position rotate scale hollow and add drainage holes quickly and easily You can also add manual or automatic supports, and then add subtract and edit them. As you see fit. It’s a good solution and is more beginner friendly because it’s supported by so many different printers, which means it’s going to be easier to find tutorials and help on to my printing and all of these models you see, here were printed at 0.05 millimeter layer height. The first model was this. Chagas and you might have seen this in a previous video where I tested the Cree allottee CRT 3d scanner. This was a big miniature from a boardgame which I scanned cleaned up in mesh mixer and then reproduced as the first print on this resin printer, and I was quite pleased with the results, especially considering the timer had support in to clean up the model in mesh mixer. I couldn’t really notice any defects. In fact, my only complaint was where I removed all of the support on the underside of the model from here on in. I tried to print the type of objects that people normally like to do on these budget resin printers and I started with a 28 millimeter miniature dwarf. I set the Chi to box support to light and you can see. It was close to failure in some places, but fortunately, this didn’t affect the quality of the final model. And as far as I can tell, all of the detail has been reproduced as you would hope now. I’m quick to admit that I’m not a fan of removing support from resin 3d prints and I had a glorious discovery, a support free category on my mini Factory and most of the models burned. The rest of my review came from there. I printed them flat to the bed, which made them hard to pry off with one of these models, even receiving a tiny bit of damage, but that was a risk. I was willing to take to have a smooth workflow and great results. My next print from this category was this Dragon Chess set rook. This one already came with a holo version which saves drastically on resin and again it seems to have printed really well with a lot of fine detail on the bricks and the texture on the dragon scales next up a resin printer classic with this mini. Eiffel Tower. Now you’ll notice down the bottom of this was close to failing, but that wasn’t the printer’s fault as the printer only shipped with 250 mils of resin partway through, I poured in some old moniker 3d to keep the print going. You can see where the color changes from that point and no. There wasn’t any issues with using that resin. It was just that. I didn’t mix them thoroughly together because I bought it in part way. Through at this small scale, the printer seems to be at its limit, reproducing all of the little struts on the tower, But perhaps I’m being harsh because it still looks great and quite detailed. Overall next up was a pair of slightly bigger Minis. Both support. Free from my mini. Factory with a vampire theme. They also printed nicely with no distortion, no broken pieces and all of the fine details intact. Something else people like to print on resin printers is jewelry, So I downloaded a selection of three rings and ran them at the same time. The smooth sections of these rings are just that with invisible layer lines and all of the details are there where they’re needed another tick for the print quality Next up something a little bit bigger with this. Darth Vader bust the texture on his cape is really nice with great amount of detail, but on the head, you can see a little bit of vertical banding. This is another one that I hollowed out to save a lot of resin. A lot of people like to print the hollow spiral staircase Rooks. So I printed a small variation on that with this twin castle edition. This is yet another print without any visual blemishes, the staircase and the double helix on the inside have both been printed without fault. My final print was this lattice torture test, and I consider this another flawless print with your attraction, Darling, really. Well, It is possible to do prints like this on an FTM printer, but it’s never going to have the same smooth surface quality as what you can achieve on a resin printer. So that was my printing and here’s a summary. The print quality is great better than the cheaper longer Orange model that I reviewed a little while ago. I’d say it’s on par with other printers in this price range, and there’s a reason for that. These machines are all remarkably similar. They all have a color touch screen. They have probably the same 2k screen. The build volume is pretty much identical. They generally have linear rail guided z-axis and a similar. UV LED array. I can all use various resins and with t2 box, They pretty much all use the same slicer, So let’s focus on some differences for this printer, For instance, the carbon filter fan. I was pretty skeptical about this. In fact, the weights attached is quite wobbly, So I figure it wouldn’t really seal, but I did leave the printer running with the fan on in this room for an hour or two, and I couldn’t smell any odor, and it seems to do something because when you take off the lid. A big wolf of resin smell enters the room. I really like the fact that it uses a USB thumb drive instead of an SD card and the placement is quite good at the front left of the printer as well. The last thing that stands out to me. Is this quality cover? The one on the cheaper longer machine did the job, but this is just a lot more robust, so would. I recommend this printer, assuming my issues with file formats and my temporary touch screen failure are related to this being a pre-production unit. Then yes, although I would say again that its results seemed on par with most of the other printers in this price range. So perhaps it comes down to whatever one is on sale at the time. I understand, however, that it is from reality and sometimes people have brand loyalty or just want to stay with the brand that they know from their other printers. So in that case. I don’t think this one will let you down. If you’ve got any questions or feedback on this printer, please post them in the comments below. Thank you so much for watching. And until next time, Happy resins ready printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you like the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.