Hey, my name is Scott and I really enjoy upgrading and modding stuff, just random stuff across my apartment, And recently I just got the Ender 3 pro, and this is one of the cheapest high quality fully open source 3d printers on the market, with a huge community of people just modifying and improving this thing and even third-party companies, manufacturing parts and upgrades for it so naturally. When I finished assembling it, I got pretty carried away. [MUSIC] But before we start personalization step one, the brand [Music] step 2 add something unique to your printer. [MUSIC] Step 3 mark its birthday. So I’ll be starting with the simpler upgrades and then working my way to the more complex ones. Some of these you’ll be able to print on your own and others. You’ll have to buy all right, lets. Make this quick. So if you have your 3d printer anywhere near your bed, you’ll probably find it hard to sleep with the LCD screen being so bright. A lot of the solutions for this on thingiverse require some sort of swinging screen cover and that can actually hit into the x-axi’s. If you’re not careful, so I went with this design, it’s a lot simpler and that’s. All you need. Whenever I print with Petg, I find a lot of plastic debris in the v-slots at the front of the printer. So I found these simple v-slot strips. They have these in different lengths for all the extrusions on the printer, But I just decided to do the four at the front to avoid debris. [MUSIC] So I used this beautiful scraper way more than I thought I would, So Here’s a minimal holder that keeps it right above the power supply unit. So it’s always there when you need it. [MUSIC] So a common problem with the ender theories is that the Z-axi’s motor is actually a bit too close to the frame of the printer. If you measure the distance between the threaded rod and the frame at the bottom and then the top, you actually find that it’s closer at the bottom, which means it’s slowly bending the threaded rod over time. There’s a few Z-axi’s motor spacers on thingiverse that solves this problem and these basically just release the stress put on the threaded rod. I also added this next piece, which uses a ball bearing to provide further stability to the threaded rod from the top of the printer. Alright, so quick disclaimer here. I just found out. If your threaded rod isn’t going perfectly straight up and you add this top bearing, you can potentially bend the threaded rod even more. Understandably, so even though I’m not having any problems with it on my printer. You might back to the video. [MUSIC] So I was initially not going to do anything about these droopy cables back here and then. I saw this photo on reddit. Yeah, this guy’s cable got stuck in his print in his print. That is so messed up, so I had to do something about these cables, So cable chains look like a lot of work, but this was actually only three print batches. Only three of the pieces needed support material and they were pretty easy to remove installing. The whole thing was also pretty easy. [MUSIC] And I didn’t even end up needing all the pieces, so yeah, [Music]. The first thing I did was preheat the bed to around 65 degrees. This makes removing the magnetic surface a lot easier and once that’s complete. You got yourself a new fridge magnet! Yeah, I cleaned the surface with some mineral spirits, and now it’s ready for the new glass bed. I replaced the stock springs with some more rigid ones and then added on the 3d printed handle and added on these aluminum leveling knobs. [MUSIC] Now it’s just readjusting the z-stop for the thickness of the glass bed. And that’s it for all the bad stuff. [MUSIC] This adapter allows you to use an SD card instead of a micro SD card. This is more convenient and it also prevents you from wearing out the card reader on the main board. This is my fluffy microphone. The original print for this enclosure had a wall on the side of it, which meant that when you use the USB slots on the printer. It left the cables running off the front of it. And I didn’t like that very much, so I used fusion 360 to basically knock out those walls and that allowed me to use a 90 degree cable instead and that actually makes this my first thingiverse remix. So now the cable runs off to the side neatly and brings the USB to the back of the printer for purposes. I will get into later for shadowing so next up. Is the dual gear metal extruder? The stock extruders on the Ender 3 are mainly made out of plastic parts. So that’s not going to last you very long. Even if you don’t get this Extruder upgrade, I highly recommend you properly. Calibrate your e-steps. I’ll link to a tutorial for this down below. This guy goes through them in great detail, but I still highly recommend this Metal Extruder upgrade because not only is it dual gear, It’s fully metal, so it’s going to last you a long time. In fact, this is actually one of the first upgrades. I put on my ender. 3 which is why I don’t have any footage from it. So all right, Bowden tubes. These things can go up to a higher temperature than the stock ptfe tubing. And I’m also using these with Luke Hatfield’s extruder hack hack! This guy is from Vancouver. That’s where I’m from what’s up, dude? Now I’m not going to go into detail about his design and how it works, but I’ll link to those tutorials down below. Basically, if you ever want your extruders to last longer and not get extruder clogs. I highly recommend this hack. Here is another upgrade. I wish I got right away. A bl touch? I wasted so much time leveling my bed and this thing just changed everything. [MUSIC] This thing was definitely a pain to set up and install, but honestly, super worth it having a leveled bed isn’t even something. I really need to think about anymore. [MUSIC] Next up is the SKR mini e3 by big tree tech. This thing is probably the most bang for your buck upgrade. You can possibly get it directly. Replaces the stock motherboard with all the connections going to the same places, so it’s very straightforward to install. There are many benefits this board offers, but the main reasons I got. It is because it allows for easy firmware updates without a bootloader so I can basically get that thermal runaway protection to avoid fires and this thing also makes your printer motors pretty much silent, so this thing replaces the need for any sort of TL smoother or motor dampener’s so for only around 35 I think this thing is a no brainer. [music] My [Music] here I’m using adjustable buck converters to step down the power supply’s 24 volts to around 5 volts! [MUSIC] I’ll be using two of these circuits one for powering the Leds and the other for a raspberry PI [Music] so there’s really a lot of room left in this enclosure design, so I’ll be hiding some extra snacks and chips in mine to save for later [Music] and then the USB cable from earlier can now be plugged into the raspberry PI [Music]. The main reason for adding the raspberry pi is, of course for octoprint. Octoprint allows you to control your printers remotely, monitor your prints over a webcam record, these sexy time lapses and with the BL touch installed, you can even get detailed visualizations of your bed to make it even more leveled [Music] and that’s it [Music] all right, so those are all 24 upgrades. I added to my ender 3 pro in the first two months of owning it. The thing is, this video took so long to edit. I’ve already started thinking about more upgrades and stuff. So I just got the laser engraver Add-on. I’m considering adding a better cooling duct. I might add plotting capabilities to this thing and also contemplating getting all metal hot end as well. If you guys have suggestions, please comment them below, and if I get enough upgrades, Maybe I’ll make a part two. That’s pretty much everything thanks for. [MUSIC] Watching [Music] you?