[MUSIC] Hey, what’s up, guys? Welcome back to another video. I hope you are doing great, and it looks like reality is back at it again. So this is the Cree allottee under 3 review. Here is everything included in the box. One cheat manuals looks very follow. Both tools, Sharp and scraper. Oh, very nice micro. SD card, including the reader bag service screws and filament that will last 1/3 the print. Thank you. Power supply and the cable 24 volts 15 amps. LCD screen for going through the menu parts, more parts, even more parts, though a good-looking part and Lastly, the rest of the printer. [MUSIC] Fun fact, I have always been reluctant to timing belts and how you get them in place because it’s such a clear indication to how long time they have thought about designing, so they have a clamp in the end of the timing belts. You, you go through the loop, and then you just put a clamp in a small tab, and that’s it, and that’s how you attach the timing belt’s, great design. Okay, good stuff. That was one and a half hours. – moving the camera around. You could probably have this done within an hour, which really isn’t that bad, just gonna plug in the wires and we’ll be ready to do Some Test Prints [Music] [Applause] [Music]. I will make sure to add more information in the description of this video down below. I’ll make sure to post a sense that I’ve used for this printer. Hopefully giving you a head start if this is the buffet that I have for you today, Pretty small buffet, but nonetheless, it’s it’s a buffet prints to show us How fine, our printing quality. Can we expect? How high of a printing speed can we print and what filaments can be printed? So let’s dig in several bad puns later. PLA, being one of the most commonly used filament materials. It made only sense that we will start with PLA and this is a mechanical player that uses a line ear gear to move circular gears that are attached to gripping arms that opens and close beautiful design and the mind-blowing part is that it prints as just one part, so it indicates those tight tolerances that has to be printed and it did a fantastic job printed at a much finer point. One millimetre layer height, the level of detail is just breathtaking, it makes everything take way longer to print, but it almost makes the layer lines completely invisible for the naked eye. This little boat is a typical benchmark to see the performance of a through the printer. I printed many of these before that you can go and compare them to this one. I would say it’s a seven, maybe an eight out of ten. There is some minor blemishes, but overall it’s pretty good, flexible filament is by far the most exciting filament in my opinion, and so having it through the printer that can print flexible filament is really important to me personally. Now that’s where the conflict starts because most of the printers that I normally use have something called a Bowden extruder and that’s where you have the extruder motor. What pushes the film in forward connected by a tube to the heating element, where the plastic actually gets melted that tube causes friction and is an indication to how well a 3d printer will be able to print flexible filament Now on the Enders. Three that tube is pretty short compared to something like on the Cree Leds here at 10 and for that reason, I was hoping that it would be able to print flexible filament better and it did. I’m not saying that this is the best 3d printer for flexible filament. But for this frog, it totally worked. [MUSIC] nylon as well as ABS benefits hugely from having a heated bed and this is where it was the only thing I could really complain about with the CR 10 the heated bed takes forever to heat up and when it does, it can only reach 85 degrees Celsius, and this is where I already made the major upgrade with this one and well first they attached everything to the frame, so it’s nice and compact, but more importantly, they encapsulated the power supply, so there’s no exposed main’s voltage unless you open it, but I mean, it’s relatively safe, but the big upgrade is it’s now a 24 volt system, so the power supply is 24 volts, which means that the heated bed will heat up significantly faster and just based on my results. It will reach a maximum temperature of around 110 degrees Celsius. The nylon print is a water bottle holder for your bicycle. This is the kind of indestructible nylon. You’re not gonna be able to break it. Perfect application and the print itself turned out great and thanks to the heated bed so perfect upgrade. The last filament I tested was an exotic filament that mimics the look of ceramic the print itself. I think looks ok. I may have used a slightly too high temperature. The bottom half. I think looks very realistic, and I could totally see myself Printing huge one of these and having my garden to make it like a Greek Palace, You know, I was. I was quite curious to see just how fast we could print something because it’s quite a bit smaller than something like the Cree LED CR 10 and and you have a boat and setup, which is one of the advantages of having a boat in setup is is that you can print faster and it would just be a fun experiment to see if it even would be able to cope with the speed, even though you would never print that these high speeds. I went to my through the printer slicer as software where one would prepare the print we made, and I increased the speed to 120 millimeters per second. That’s what this looks like. [MUSIC] The bottom half actually doesn’t look half bad. The upper half does have some distortion going on, but I mean, it coped in less than an hour. As point, you move, Amira. Layer height. It finished pretty cool, a couple of things. I didn’t like to the printer because everything can’t be positive. They build volume. The building volume is such a personal and in subjective view for most people. A building volume of 230 by 230 by 250 millimeters is enough personally. I wouldn’t mind it bigger. It keeps it nice and compact, but for $200 within that price range, you’re not gonna be able to find a printer with the larger building volume anyways. Sound levels. It’s not particularly noisy. In fact, it was more quiet than all the other 3d printers. I’ve tested before it’s just something I wished it would implement into all 3d printers to make them silent. And that’s exactly what I’ve done to my second quality under 3 There are some easy shortcuts to be made here. Install motor dampener’s replace a few fans and you’re done! I will make a video of how to make basically any 3d printer silent, so subscribe for that. It’s a small one, but why not use the space here to have a second fan blowing air onto the plastic something? I do wish they would include in. The kit is a glass bed. The entire criolla. Tcr 10 series did arrive with glass beds, and it’s something that can be very useful to have. If you plan to print something like phone cases. What do you want to take the advantage of a shiny bottom layer? This feels like very high grit sandpaper. That does give you a part, A more natural look to what the rest of the print looks like, But on the seer 10 you could choose whether you want it. Have it or not to have it, you see? I can only speak from my experience and I have six. Cree Ality printer’s, four of which I use more than I like to admit all six arrived in working order. This one is $200 within that price range we have. Dt boo tarantula. The ami t8 two of the pillars! I’ve reviewed before on this channel printer. Is that does not stack up to the quality control arrives with open party supplies, which is dangerous and thus requires some modifications to work properly. Should the Cree allottee under three replace the imitate, the TiVo tarantula and many other 3d printers within the $200 range? Absolutely it should. Should it replace the CR 10 It’s half the price. It has a better heated bed. Its more compact, smaller, build volume. I still think the CR 10 has its place in terms of size. It’s still an affordable printer but looking at the overall performance and affordability. The under three is is up there, you know? I get this question all the time people message me through Facebook or Instagram, wondering what would be the best through the printer for me, and it’s always the same question. It’s just a budget that differs for most people. The Ender Three is gonna be a good choice. I really do hope you found that review helpful. That was my aim and for the next video. Hopefully it’s gonna be another. RC video. I made a 3d printed or sea air boat, and hopefully I’m gonna get a chance to take this out on the water and so see you again in the next video. Have an awesome day bye.