Hey, guys! Rob your 3d print scape today. I’m going to show you how to upgrade the firmware on your end or three or indoor three pro. This process will also work with a lot of other reality models as well. I just don’t have the entire thing document end to end, but it should work. Assuming you just come out. The right printer, which we’ll go over when we get to that step. Alright, so there’s a couple things you’re gonna need to get started. One is gonna be an you know, or, oh, no clone board. I’ll link to these in the description below. They’re not that expensive, but you will need it in order to install the bootloader on your prayer. The Bootloader’s a one-time install, it’s gonna be needed for swapping out the firmware and all of that, but once it’s done once you can easily swap out the firmware in the future. The second thing you’re gonna need is just a batch of jumper cables. This is just a set of them. Open them up here when we get to that stage again, but not that expensive. If you already have something around, you can use them. You can also make them if you want, but for me. I just wear them like I said they weren’t that expensive, and I come just more than enough. Alright, so I also get one thing That just came in my BL touch Auto level system. I’ll be doing a video on this guy, probably in the next couple weeks. So keep an eye out for that. Alright, so first, let’s talk about why you want to upgrade the firmware, taking the features and all of that out of the equation. The printer works so it’s not necessarily a requirement, but the biggest thing that’s going to be safety. The standard firmware that ships with all the quality printers does not have thermal runaway protection. So what that means is if the heat sensor probe gets knocked off and or isn’t getting read correctly, it will continue to heat up the heating element until you get to the point where it can potentially catch fire. It’s one of the biggest issues and complaints with this type of printer. It’s an easy fix with some of the firmware and the firmware did have a couple limitation like a year ago, but those limitations have been resolved at later versions. So right, now you’re not really losing anything by going to this firm where you have a couple options. When it comes to the firmware, you can go with the. Cree allottee newer version from them. I would not recommend that because it also doesn’t have the thermal memory protection, which is the main reason why. I’m doing the upgrade and then the other one, which is the one I’m going to be using is by th 3d It’s using Marlin on the back end. It’s just an open-source community, basically, who developed it? We’ll walk through the process of downloading all of that, and we’ll get everything that you need to get started. We will need a Allen wrench in order to get into the board, but we’ll get to that in a little bit. So this is a little bit more in-depth. It’s not too complicated if you follow the process, But if you have any questions, please leave a comment below, and I’ll try to help you out as much as I can and before we go ahead and get started. Make sure you guys hit that, like button and subscribe. I’ll really help us out. Alright, so the first thing I want to do is power up the printer to show you that. I’m on the standard firmware, So let’s go ahead and do that. I will go grab the camera. Zoom in and show you what the current firmware version is. Okay, so here’s our control panel. We just go ahead and go to about printer. You’ll see that we’re on the reality 3d firmware version 1.1 6.2 So that’s gonna be our starting point. Now let’s go ahead and get started. Alright, guys, so the first thing we’re going to want to do is open up our board here. So let me go ahead and do that this. [MUSIC] Alright. So this guy came with the board itself as you see, its new, so I’m going to open that up. And it also came with a USB cable, which is good because I didn’t have too many of these laying around extra special this size. Alright, so let’s just open this up, all right, So here’s the board itself. I’ll do a close-up on it when I plug it in what we’re going to want to go and do now is we’re going to plug it into the computer and then go ahead and start actually down and software we need, but here’s a close-up of the board itself. It’s not too much we need to know about it. It’s really just going to be a couple pins and the USB port that’s. All we’re really gonna care about right now. So I’m going to go to plug it in and then jump on my computer. Alright, guys, so. I’ve got the Uno board plugged in, and the next thing we’re gonna want to do is go to download the firmware package that we want. One good thing about the th 3d A bundle is it comes with the version of Adreno that we need has a couple of other modifications to it as well. Some of the plugins that you have to install manually. If you didn’t go that route, so it’s really a good package and all-around. It’s probably the best firmware for the printer at this point. Alright, so let’s just go ahead and download latest version here. I’ll have the URL in the description below, so we just want to download latest firmware. This might take a minute, depending upon your internet connection. It’s what 575 Meg, such as give that a second to download. All right, so that’s downloaded. I’ll gonna open this folder up here again. Installing the bootloader on the printer is a one-time thing. Unfortunately, quality did not put it on there by default. They just have their default firmware there, but the Bootloader allows you to load additional OSS, which will be the firmware that we’re looking at which is to the printer itself. That’s an OS basically. Alright, So let’s go ahead and Unzip this really quick extract all. And if you’re looking to use the BL touch Auto level kit, you’re also going to have to walk. Run through this process anyway. So it’s really something that’s worth the time. It’s probably investing a half hour in it upfront, but then going forward, it’s easy to update the firmware. Just plug it into your computer and pushed and firmware, which we’ll do at the end, but just the bootloader is just one of those requirements. It’s not necessarily a good or bad thing. It’s just something we have to do. Alright, now that’s extracted. We can go in and take a look. I am kind of jumping. The video around a little bit just so you’re not having to watch things download and extract. I don’t think that’s the best use of time. So alright, so it’s going to open this up. The main thing we’re gonna want to look at here is open firmware windows. Just a batch file that opens everything we need, alright? So here is the adrenal. IDE and all of the actual firmware, all the configuration changes were going to need to make, which is really just a couple will be under this configuration dot. H file. I don’t want to go into too much detail on all the different settings of the firmware and stuff like that. I’m just gonna walk through what you actually need to change to get it to work. If you want more detail on some of the other changes we can make in the firmware. I can do that in a later video. Alright, so the first thing we need to do is flash the Uno card with the bootloader. So let’s go ahead and start that process. Alright, so it’s going to go up to file and examples and we’re going to want to go to adrenal ISP. Oops, here it is, and then go ahead and select this. It’s gonna open up a new window here with everything that we need, all right, so the next thing we have to do is just go to tools and then the board itself. We want to switch this to uno. As you can see right now. It’s on the mega 2560 so let’s go ahead and select Uno, which will match the card that we’re using. And then also you want to make sure that under port here that you’re selecting the one that has the actual connection to your own oak board, so in this case? I have something else plugged into com1. So we want to switch this over to comm seven. If you only have the one thing plugged in, it should just be the board itself. Also, it’s probably gonna be a different port, its. Fiona, I assigned the ports when it gets plugged in. So don’t worry about what port it is. Just make sure that you have something showing up all right now. We should just be able to upload that to the board and let’s see what it’s doing down here. Alright, that’s done as you can see here. If you want to. Just go back through. You see everything that it did again. I don’t want to go into too much detail on what it’s doing and how it’s doing. That’s getting way past the scope of this video. I just want to make it so that you actually know how to get the bootloader on the board and get it onto the printer so that we can change out the firmware. The next step is going to be connecting the Uno card to the printer itself. I’m gonna go ahead and switch it over to our main camera here and then kind of show you what it looks like. It’s gonna be a bunch of cables so from there. I’ll go ahead and put an image up there as well that you can pause on to see what needs to connect to. What, alright, guys? So the next thing we gotta do here is take off this cover. I’m gonna try to get the camera as close to this as possible to kind of show you what’s going on, but like. I said I will put the image up showing you what connectors and to connect to what pants. And this is a one-time process so while it might seem intimidating. Try not to let it stress you out too much. It’s not that bad also. I went ahead and unplug the card itself from the computer. Make sure that you’re not actually touching the board or any of the components while it’s plugged in. Alright, so I’m going to go ahead and undo these screws here using the Allen Wrench that came with the printer. But if you don’t have it, you’d have to make sure that you get the right size one. A lot of kids will have all the sizes as well. So I’m gonna go ahead and unscrew these and then resume the recording afterwards. Alright, guys, the last time I did. This was on end or three not. The Crow, so that one, you only had the three screws up top with the Perot because they have the fan and everything on the bottom. Now you got to flip it over, and then there’s one two three four screws. You have to remove so once you got that off. It exposes the board here and then those are the pins. We need to work with, all right. I went ahead and open the set of cables that I was talking about. There are three different types of cables. In here. You’ve got the ones that have male and female or male and male, and then female, a female and female. We’re gonna need the female to female ones here, So I’m gonna set the rest of them aside, all right, so I’m gonna go in and cable this up. I will put a image on the screen right afterwards. Just show you what needs to connect to. Where all right, guys? I’ve got it connected. I’ve printed out my little cheat sheet as well, but I will have this as an image for you here in about a minute. Just go ahead and pause the video on it. And then you’ll be able to just go, uh, plug everything in where it belongs. I misspoke a minute ago. We did need one male, two female. It’s for this power cable right here, going over to this pin. The rest of them They line up as you can see here. We’ve got six and six, and they’re all in the same order, except for this blue. It goes over to here, which is ten, You know, you don’t have to use the exact same color cables and this kit. There are so many cables and so many different colors that I went ahead just for simplicity, but that’s not a requirement. Alright, so the next step. Is we’re going to want to plug this into the computer really quick! This little blue cable is not long enough to reach over to my computer, So I’m just going to use a black one that I have here now. I could always move the printer closer to the computer, but I have the cable, so it’s not a big deal. If you don’t have the cable, you can just move it over. Or if you’re using a laptop, you can bring it closer, but I’m on my desktop here, all right, so now that we’re plugged in. I did want to make a note here that we are powering the printer through the board, handle USB similar to how it powers up the printer. If you’re using a Raspberry Pi now, it’s only going to give it enough power to run the controls and different actual console and all of that it will not be able to heat up things like your heating elements and actually run a print. Alright, so now let’s jump back over to the computer and push this to the printer. Alright, guys, now that we’re back at the computer here. Let’s go ahead and push the bootloader to the printer. Make sure you’re on the adrenal ISP and console that you had open that push to the bootloader to the Uno card. Alright, so let’s go ahead and change some of these settings back to so that it works with the printer here. We want to go to tools and switch from Uno down to Sangui’s No 1280 for P here. And then we want to also verify that we are connected to the board, which we are here and then the program or the programmer we need to switch. Adreno, as is P now. If we go to burn bootloader, this should send it to the printer. Alright, it shows that that’s done. I just wanted to take a look at the console output. Everything looks ok here. Alright, nice, so now. I am going to pause this really quick and unplug the Uno card and plug the printer directly into the computer. So I’ll be right back. Alright, guys! I’m back here. I went ahead and plug the printer into the computer and I unplugged The Uno board, which should be completely done with that. So let’s go to close out of this console here So now that we’re back at the console with all the firmware configuration. We got to make sure that all of our languages and configs are set properly, so let’s go to tools and programmer should be switched to. AVR is p m. K ll. So let’s go and do that really quick. And then also we want to make sure that we have our compute that printer on here. So the Uno card was comm seven before now. This is comm eight, so I’m just going to select that. Alright, so now what we want to do is uncomment in Door 3 so that the Audrina firmware knows that that’s the printer that we’re going to be working with, so let’s go ahead and do a search for that. You should see, just put an end or three on no space, and then you should see a define in door three. Let’s just go ahead and delete these two backslashes, which will remove the comment and then again it’s showing you to make sure that you have the same. Guarino 1284 piece selected, which is what we did a minute ago. So if we go here as you can see, that’s what we have selected. Now there’s another thing here that you don’t have to do, but I like to. Let’s just go and search for a miss and here and here I like to just give it a printer name again. You don’t have to do this, but I’m just gonna call this end or three. It’s they give it a random, weird name. I don’t remember what it actually is. If you don’t define it, so I just spend the extra 30 seconds here and define it. Alright, so next. What we’re going to want to do is hit, upload to send this to the printer. All right, as you can see. It took a minute for it to process everything, but then I went ahead and sent everything over to the printer. And if you look here, it said that it’s done and it’s a hundred percent, so it should work. We’ll go ahead and power up the printer here in a second and take a look at it now. I did want to make a note that this is the part that you would do. If you wanted to. Upgrade the firmware in the future. You were just if you’re using this firmware. Go ahead and launch that batch file at the beginning. Just go over to this file. Uncommon out the printer type, which in this case is under three and then give it a name and upload, that’s it. That’s gonna be the process to change out the firmware going forward since the bootloader has already been installed. We are good to go there. Alright, so now. I’m gonna go ahead and put the printer back together and I’ll show you what it looks like. Make sure you guys hit that, like button and subscribe if you haven’t already and. I’ll see you in a minute, alright, guys? I got everything. Put back together here. Now let’s go to power on and make sure it has the new firmware as you can see. It started up with Thd now on modeling and the th 3d version that we’re on and we’re all set. That’s pretty much all there is to it, alright, guys? That was the process of installing the boot loader on the printer itself and updating the firmware. Now that we have the boot loader on the printer, updating the firmware in the future, It’s going to be a breeze, so that was just that last step where we just changed the printer. Sorry commented out the printer and then add at the printer name and send it to the printer. That’s all we’re gonna have to do going forward if we want to keep upgrading the firmware now. I believe they’ve been releasing patches pretty regularly on this, so I’ll keep an eye out to see if there’s any specific versions that are worth going to. And as I mentioned the process looks like it’s bad, but when you’re actually going through it, if you just follow the steps, it’s not too bad. If you have any questions, go ahead and leave a comment below. I’ll try to help you out as much as I can and before we go out and wrap this video up. Make sure you guys hit that, like button and subscribe. It’ll really help this channel out. It’ll help us be able to get additional printers and accessories and stuff going forward to give you more videos like this, and if you have any other questions, go ahead and leave a comment below as well, even if it’s not directly related to troubleshooting. Be curious to know if you’re using a different version of the firmware or anything likethat.