Creality Ender 3 Cura Settings | Cura Settings For Creality Ender 3 V2

3D Printing Doctor

Subscribe Here





Cura Settings For Creality Ender 3 V2


[MUSIC] [Applause]. Hello, guys! Welcome to my new video in this video. I’m going to show you how to set up your create And r3 version number two for Ultimaker Jira. And for this one, we are going to use 4.6.2 which is the update one, so go to their website and download the ultimaker cura, as you see on my video right now, so after the download, you just click setup and set it up. It’s pretty easy and straightforward for Mac and windows. So you just need to install it after you install it. This is the screen that you are going to end up with in this prince in the screen since I have already installed printers, I don’t start up with the windows showing, adding a printer so for that for the ones while they install the cura. We need to go to the printer section, like, click the name of your printer and the drop down menu will open and from there, click add printer or manage printers. Both of them will work. So if you click manage printers in there, you will see all your printers and again you need to click the add button after you. Click the add button. You will add a non-network printer because it’s a non-network printer for from so from there, go down to create the 3d section and select create and that three version two is not available at the moment. So probably it’s gonna come soon, too. So after that, just rename your printer as version two as you see here after that, it will go to the machine settings, so we need to change some stuff in the machine settings, so go to the printer settings and change your X axis to 220 y axis is a 220 These are in millimeters and Z height, 250 millimeters stays same, and then we will select the build player’s, rectangular heated bed and g-code flavor is marlin and regarding the start, G-code is the same starch record as N-direct rail as Crails and archery uses. So it is, there’s nothing there’s nothing you need to worry about or change at the moment and regarding the printhead settings, we are going to keep the same X min y min as it is in the creality and that three and for the X Max and Y marks, those are again going to be the same numbers regarding the NG code. It is again the same energy code. It just shuts down. The machine cools this extruder and heatbed and disengage the motors from X y Z lets. Disable the motors. So when you go to the extruder one, the compatible material damage is going to 1.75 millimeters. So there’s nothing to worry about that. And after we settle these down, click next and our creator 3 version 2 is set up, so you click close so it should be ready to print. Now we will move on to printing now. We will move on to slicing settings, which are like most important things in here after you set up your machine. Now what we need to do is to import an STL file, and I’m going to open one of my recent STL, which is a Darth Vader statue. So I’m your father, 30 centimeters, uh, tall, Darth Vader. So I’m going to import this and turn it and scale it down to 60 and turn it so right now. My statue like the print STL is basically hitting under the like stain standing on top of the heated bed as you can see like this, so from there. These are the options where you can like, move it back and forth and rescale it right now. It’s sorry 50 but I’m going to scale it up to 65 right now. It is 70 and I think 65 is good. Yeah, so this is my model right now, and as you can see, we are first and as you can see the first thing, the change in quality is the layer height, so 0.2 is really draft layer height. So what we need to do is make it go lower for this model. My to go is mostly 0.08 millimeter because it is giving you a really good layer resolution as well. Uh, if you want to go. Upper 0.1 is good too, but 0.2 is not going to be good for this model for the wall thicknesses. I always go with the 0.8 millimeter. It’s good enough! If you want a more stronger walls, you should go with the higher wall thicknesses. Next up is the info for this kind of model’s. 20 percent info is really good. Uh, there’s no need to go up and waste more regarding the material, uh, 50 and 200 Celsius are really good for temperature and the bad, but my personal favorites are printing. Temperature is 204 and build temperatures 55 so regarding the speed. Uh, there’s a settings in here as like, 50 millimeter per second, which is really great, But in my models I. If I want to speed things up, I use 60 millimeter per second, but 50 millimeter per second is really good, so I’m going to leave it As it is regarding the retraction settings while it’s traveling, this is going to prevent oozing, so go higher. If you see oozing my to go is 8 to 10 millimeters for the cooling itself, we will always enable print cooling because it is required and regarding the support as you can see. This object has lots of against the gravity section, so we need to generate support and from everywhere is your option, and also you can change the overhang angle. If you want to waste less materials, so for the build plate adhesion, I’m gonna go with brim because it’s a very big base, and I think the brim bit of three millimeter is going to be good enough for the special Mod. It’s going to be all at once and as you can see. Our model gives a model error where it talks about. Your model is not the manifold. So there will be errors in this model and we will see it in the previous section so we might need to make some edits or print this object piece by piece. I put this one in here to show you the settings and slice it to see how long it’s gonna take. So now let’s click slice and see how long it’s gonna actually take also one thing in here, if your printer if your computer is not a high quality graphics computer, this process is going to take some time, okay. After five minutes later, my slicing is done and as you can see with these settings. This statue is gonna take three days and eight hours, which is like crazy, but let’s click the preview to see where the sport materials are gonna go in and again. If you have a graphics card better than mine, it’s gonna take faster for your computer to come to this stage, and as you can see, you can see the sport materials that are put into the vader study and seems like they are really fine. Sport materials like they should be good, but that sport material under the hand is too thin and too tall, so that might fail. And from this slider over here as you can see, we can go layer by layer to the top and see how the structure is gonna got printed. However, if you guys might realize I realized that the lightsaber is having zero support so basically, that part is going to fail as you can see. So let me go up. It is not going to sport it and it’s going to fail, so it’s not printable at the moment so for that. I suggest that let’s print this model piece by piece, and I’m putting the link in the description below so that you guys can download it and print it piece by piece, so for that, I think I’m going to cancel this idea of printing this one at the moment and print it piece by piece, but for slicing and other purposes, I’m going to import another STL file and show you guys how to print that one. Now I’m going to click the object and click delete, and then now I’m going to import my new STL file. Which is my design. One of my designs is like a pencil holder that will have magnets behind to get stuck to metal legs, so I’m going to turn it around and make it properly printable as you can see and this one will require no spot materials and I don’t need that much of a layer, height or resolution, so lets. Change them, I’m going to change my layer. Height to 0.1 and the rest of them are same, except the part where I need sports. I’m going to remove that because I don’t need any sports. Now I can start slicing, and since this model is pretty easy to slice, It’s going to take very few seconds less than a minute to slice now. This model is going to take 18 hours and 24 minutes of what I can do is basically increase the height to 0.2 to decrease that time. But I’m going to save this document to my file, so right now since there is no USB attached to my computer, it says save to a file as you can see. I plug my USB in, and it says save to removable drive. I’m saving it now. I’m going to eject it and it is done. I sliced my object. Eject my USB now! I’m going to plug it to the end directory version number two and start my print okay now. I plugged in my SD card into the Crail 103 version number two, and I started my trip print the bed heated, extruder heated, and these are my other babies that are like doing some job in here, and these are my SLA machines as you can see guys and this photo in here is printing The a file tower. This is 34 percent done. And, um, when we are back to creating their tree version number two, it is right now, printing the initial line just to clean the nozzle out and make the material flow out. Now it will start printing My and here is the identification knob turning and print started and the screen looks really good. The pause tune. Stop everything in there. The remaining time to be honest has falls in it, Just so that, you know, don’t believe in that remaining time and this is the start of the print. So thank you for watching and congratulations on your jurassic. Things set up. Your printer is right now. Printing what you have sliced and if you guys like this video, don’t forget to click thumbs up and don’t forget to subscribe to my channel. See you guys in the next video. [MUSIC] [Applause] foreign!

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

read more