Hey, guys, in this video. I will be exploring some of the best free printable upgrades for York reality. Cr Ten. I will have a video soon showing off some of the Purchasable upgrades, but for now, these can all be printed on your machine to start off. I will show some of the most common prints done. After receiving the printer. The very first print that should be done is a guide for the filament near the extruder, as others have stated. The filament rubs against the Z lead screw while printing and could degrade the part over time, this very small print by Gregg, 1911 34 Pops, right under your stepper motor and guides the filament from rubbing the next common first print are these four large bed leveling knobs designed by Val Strap. I didn’t think these would be necessary since the knobs that come with the printer aren’t difficult to move, but these changed it entirely, making slight adjustments on the go is extremely simple and requires no effort at all. I was very happy that I printed these. I also wanted to upgrade the active cooling fan. It seems that the fan on this is directed towards the nozzle and I prefer to have the air blow down on to the print as best as I can. I found this fan designed by Pro Mann, the Thingiverse that seems that it will work perfectly. I didn’t want to print this in PLA since it’ll be so close to the nozzle, so I got to test out printing some abs on my CR 10 with the printbed at 90 degrees Celsius and with the brim, this small part printed without any warping or delamination. I will want to do some further tweaking, though before doing any larger or important parts in ABS, but this will hopefully allow the fan duct to withstand high heat being so close to the nozzle as you could tell after install it that the air is blowing directly downward now, which should help with cooling the parts as evenly and quickly as possible for the cleanest surface area as mentioned in the video reviewing this printer. I wanted a way to manually Adjust the Z height without having to change all four bed corners. I haven’t had a need for yet, but I’m sure I will in the future. I found this very simple design by Don Eb, 99 which allows you to slide the Z and stop up or down via two screws. I get this put on and refined the proper Z height before starting the next spray one print, I decided to add, but may not keep after receiving the purchase upgrades. Is this x-axi’s belt tensioner? You always want belts to be nice and tight, and I noticed that my I had a bit of droop to it. This print, also by Donny b99 allows you to very easily Adjust this tension. Unfortunately, the print is meant to have You do a bit of disassembly, but I didn’t really want to do this considering. I had parts coming in the mail, so I just broke it to make it work for me. This isn’t ideal but will work in the meantime to allow me to have a nice and tight belt. You will want to properly disassemble, though, before adding the tensioner to your machine because it can cause your belt to be rubbed and worn down due to it. Not being exactly straight. I then saw make anything’s video where Devon designed a knob to easily help feed and retract filament. My first print seemed to deform when I put pressure on it. So I decided to design a small hole in it to add an insert to hold it firmly in place. This knob screwed on easily and makes extruding filament as easy as a quick turn. You just can’t go too fast because it’ll cause the extruder to skip since my first print got messed up. I decided to design some stick figures doing squats and glue them on to see if I can get a fun time lapse, it doesn’t exactly look the way I thought it would, but at the right frame rate, it sort of works. I also decided to print this. Gopro bed mount, by freakish on Thingiverse. It helps me get some of these time lapses that you see now. I decide to print some space-saving parts because I am limited with the area that I have. I found these wood looking legs designed by exterminate on Thingiverse. This print won’t help with the printer wobbling, but it will help on me. Saving space printing. These for at 50% infill first drain took about 15 hours after printing and then did some painting in order to make them look like real wood. They then attached where the feet on your printer were before. These feet require the filament to be held on top of your printer. I found this filament holder designed by medieval one in order to accomplish this. This is a bit of a weird design for printing, but I like it because it utilizes the plastic spool Center that came with the machine in order for this to fit on the part of the machine. That’s easiest for me to work with. I also print this filament guide designed by B. Manan this allows the filament to feed easily without anything rubbing on the frame. After these last few parts, the printer seems to wobble a bit more, but the print quality is still top-notch. I notice a very small amount of ghosting that I hope to improve by adding the second Z leads group. But worst case, I can always reduce the acceleration and jerk since I still have. My speed set fairly high in this machine Like I said, I will be back soon with some purchased upgrades once. I received them in the mail. Thanks for watching, subscribe now for more fun prints, tutorials and free giveaways. If you’re having difficulty fixing errors or are not able to consistently get clean prints from your machine. Check out my in-depth book 3d printing failures. I spent a lot of time making sure to include all the failures that I’ve experienced in my 50,000 hours of successful Fdm 3d printing so that you can reduce your headaches and frustrations check it out now by ordering on Amazon in paperback or Kindle format you.