Hey, guys, next to here and welcome to my channel in this video. I’m going to show you my full review of the Cree Leds here 10 s The upgraded version of the CR 10 so stay tuned. Here is the retail box of the CR 10 and it looks like a regular one, but if you look closely on other side on the sticker, it says the CR 10 s very exciting about this one, so lets. Open the box and see what we have inside. I really like how the reality packed a 3d printers. The packet is simple design and well secured so nothing was damaged. The whole package is divided into the four section. We have an upper and lower frame parts control box and the carton box, which include the rest of the parts and components in a carton box. You’re gonna find? Quickstart guide, part list and etc warranty card micro USB card with a reader frame parts, spare parts, all necessary tools, USB cable filament removal, tool, cleaning nozzle, needle, Spare Teflon tube, 200 gram of the white PLA filament filament holder tape, AC cable and something that I presume There is a filament detection. Run out, switch, and now let’s have a quick look on the USB card on the micro SD card, there is a Chinese and the English instruction folder, which contain Operation Instruction, USB driver and the software instruction reference data model and the printing instruction is a straightforward, and it’s very easy to follow. There is a support for the cura and repeated host with the reference settings for the old plastic modern parts. There is an even. STL file. If ever needed, you can print them again. There is even heated bed cable supports upgrade, which is nice. NI recommends this upgrade part 2 installed and now let’s finish unboxing and free the heated bed and the tape sheet under the glass, usually the heated bed wheels need some adjusting, and I think this is a way to protect this huge aluminum heated plate and the glass from the damage. It’s better to have some slope and place to movie. The packet box is not handled with a care rather than have them in a fixed place. This is what I mean. Under the heated bed is a metal mounted plate with the six bearing wheels and the three left. Wheels has a dusting nut. If the each bearing will move like this using the same force, then it’s perfectly adjusted, if not use the supplier tool and adjust them better. Perfect, nice. Assembly this year 10’s It’s a very easy and enjoyable quality of this kit is great as soon as you start with assembly process. You notice this right away? The frame is a simple, robust and strong. This kit is around 85% assemblé. So you don’t need more than 30 minutes to finish it. Even if you work very slow, see, our 1020 printers are designed to be simple and reliable. Upper part of the frame is holding with the four screws and with a bracket on each side bracket on the left side has a micro switch on it and that the Zee stops, which I already have the first orange version of the Sear 10 and is still going strong. After six months of heavy usage. Without a glitch, you can slightly see it on the right side on the screen. If you look closely the main difference between the sear 10 and the certain s is that the S version has the to two other rods for the z-axis and the filament run out the text on my life, and now let’s have a look inside the control box. I already like what I see here. All the wires are nicely isolated and the power supply has automatic load fan regulation, so it’s not too noisy. Power supply is a 12 volt. 3 AMP rated and the total power is three hundred and sixty watt inside the control box. There is a mosfet module for the heated bed, which is great. Here is a mosfet closed. Shut next! We have a fan which blowing air outside of the control box. Motherboard is industrial grade, which is upgraded to an hour support extra functions like the filament. Run out detection next. We have a cooling fan for the motherboard and the LCD. Next part is a filament holder holding with these two screws. I notice also that the Treader! Lot’s coupling are upgraded to this. One looks much better when you screw down these four screws, do it slowly and little by little do not over tight it. If you do so you can bet the coupling, and it will twist the z-axi’s threaded rods and cause the wobble in your prints, so do it right. There is no rushing when you assembly 3d printer. If you need to adjust the Z or X carriage, there is adjusting, not – when you finish it. Double, check all the bearings wheels like before there should not be too loose or too tight when they all move under the same force. Then you get it perfect. The next part is connecting all the cables. Every cable has the connector and it’s a mark. Clearly, so you can go wrong on some part. I use the cable ties just to secure the cable and make them nice and snug. This is, of course, not the option. If you don’t want to do it you. Don’t need to most of the cables lead to the two male connectors and there plug-in into the female socket on the back of the control box and they are secure with each other caps. This makes secure and strong connection. Without any worry that somewhere will ever get disconnected. Both connectors are physically different. So you can connect them wrong next. I plug in AC cable. Add one more extra cable size, install Philomon, run-out detection and install. Pla filament that I get in the box. I like how the filament run or detection also work as a filament guide. -, that’s very nice next. I notice also that the glass plate on the sear time S are protected with a plastic foil on both sides and the glass corners are not sharp anymore. They’re nicely brushed on each side and their match aluminium plate. These paper clips are very handy because you can easily remove the glass and remove your prints from it without worried that you will mess it up level of your bed and we are done the. Cr 10 s. Is the fully assembled, and it sure looks cool. Now let’s run some specs and do the O review. Same as on the CR 10 C R 10 S. Has the build volume of 300 by 300 by 400 millimeters in the Z-axi’s, so it’s pretty large to the printer frame is made from the huge aluminum rails with the V slots on it on which roll corresponding V slot bearing wheels, so the movement is much quieter compared to the classic noisy. Elaina bearings printer has a boat and setup and the two fans of the X carriage, one further cooling, the hot end and one for the cooling. The filament nozzle is the standard zero point four millimeters and it can be replaced to other size as well. I notice that the ixs belt holder is upgraded to now it’s made for the medal compared to the previous one, which was printed in a black. PLA belts are made from the reinforced rubber and they are not stretch unlike on the Regulus year 10 on which I had to create a new air nozzle and replace it on this S version. Air duct nozzle is upgraded and now it’s made for the model plastic and the air is blowing in the right direction, which is under the tip of the nozzle. Moving on the right. I noticed that position of the X weld is now fixed in the center and the belt are not rubbing against the V slots. No more moving on the top of the frame. The caps are also made for modern plastic, and now they have a logo it saying goes for the zero out brackets, which are also made for the motor plastic with the bearing inside and they look much better now. Bowden style extruder is the same made from the molding plastic and it has a very strong spring, so there is no skipping of filament on this printer. I add the cable tie to hold the cables from the X carriage in place. I cut the extra spirit – tube and made this nice guide for the filament and I add the dust filter on the feed side on the control box. There is a big graphic. LCD and rotation up for easy scrolling to the menu. On the right side, there is a switch for the AC voltage place for micro SD card and a USB plug in the right corner. There is a plate with the model spec. I’m not sure why it says 260 watt. When in reality, the power is 360 watt on the backside of the control box. There is own off switch. AC plug with a fuse and the cable connectors. Only one thing is left now and Islam. Let’s start! It looks like firmware is slightly different -. I notice right away that there is no flash, quick reality 3d printer like before on the CR 10 now it’s flash, only 3d printer navigation to the man. It’s very simple and easy, and I notice that rotation of is changed, too. It’s slightly more precise now, and it’s little bit easier to scroll and click feels better. I will click scroll to all the options in a softer. So you can guys see all the settings that are available. Some settings seems to be missing – like adjusting of dark acceleration. Z Offset and LCD contrast are removed not that those function was necessary to have, but still for advanced users. It can be useful now. The function out of bed leveling feature is added. All right, let’s start with the testing now. First thing is the other hole next. One is the bed leveling leveling the bed on the CR 10 s is a very easy, much easier the end of the older SI R 10 to level your bed, simply scroll to the bed. Auto leveling in the software click on it, and the printer will make five movements one on each corner and one in the center of the printing plate. Or if you have experience like me, you can do it with your eyes, and by feeling it’s very easy. And after few times, you will get sense for it either. So the gap should be around 0.2 til 0.3 millimeter gap between the nozzle and the heated bed If the gap are too small, the exodor was skipping all the time, and if the gap are too big, the filament will not stick to the glass and it will make a mess since I like to print on a glass surface. I’m using a printer fix spray to get filament to stuck on the glass. Better, you can also use hairspray glue, stick glue tape but is not nearly good as this printer fix on my old seer 10 aluminum heated bed was slightly bow in the center button. This one is perfectly straight, which is awesome. It makes life much easier. My first test print like always is the Hello Cube 20 by 20 made for the zero point. Four millimeter nozzle walls are just to alert ich. The print speed is at 25 millimeters. The second temperature is 200 degrees in the hot end and a 55 degrees on the heated bed printing. This cube is a very easy and fast, and it gives you clear picture what you can expect from the printer itself, which error you have to fix until you get perfect results and the cube looks great. It looks like this. PLA needs a lower printing temperature to get better sharp edges and initial first liner needs to be set to the high number to get rid of this elephant foot effect, but rather than that. This is very good result for the first test. Print layers are great and they are almost no visible even at 0.2 resolution. All right, now, we know our results for next one. We will improve knowing the results of the previous test print this time. I love the print temperature to 195 degrees. I set the first initial layer to 0.2 millimeter, and I print ready, Benjy. You have to be aware that the different types of PLA require different temperatures, so there is no perfect selling story for each PLA. You have to make your own testing and find the perfect temperature melting point for your PLA. Before that, you go into the some longtime printing results is awesome. All edges are sharp and straight. There is no rihan’s cooling are great. Feed rate is a perfect and the surface is smooth, very impress. The results indeed. Now, let’s test some gold. Pla filament that I get from gearbest and see how well it prints for this print. I increase the initial first layer to 0.4 millimeter, and now it’s much easier to take the prints off the glass and the results are perfect this. Bengie looks awesome. Surface is so smooth. It looks like a mirror. I like the color too. I use only two parameters on the wall and other the special angle lights. The infield grid is slightly visible. I think using the three perimeter on the walls will get even better results, but even so, this is the most beautiful boundary. I think that I ever print and keep in mind. This is still a 0.2 resolution. Amazing here. I made a small mistake and I load the configuration profile from my other CRM, which was set up for different types of PLA and the temperature was a little bit higher. So get some stranger between the wings, but even so, I cleaned the string in with a razor blade, and the results are still very good. Still, Seer tennis didn’t disappoint, and even so the quality of the print is great, and I loved it, and now it’s time for something with even more details. And that is the sorceress from Luba 3d one of the most beautiful 3d model out there for slicing this model. I use the latest better version of Kira. It’s the first time that I use it, so I hope the results will be good print. Settings is a standard 195 degrees on the hotend 55 degrees on the heated bed. Print speed was 40 millimeters. The second travel 100 and retraction speed was 60 and the beauty is born. She is gorgeous! Seer tennis did a very good job. She is a perfect well, almost perfect after close inspection of the model. I found one small imperfection in this print on the right cheek on the face. It seems that one or two layers is missing for some reason. I’m not sure if the filament was stuck on that particular moment, or if the layer was missing in in g-code’s completely, It’s not such a big deal, But I would definitely switch back to the 2 point 6 Point 2 version for my next test print until the Cure released the final 2.7 version just to be sure, but still CEO. Dennis did great job printing his model. Now it’s time to print something in a full height and test the precision of the z-axi’s easiest and the fastest way to do. It is to print vase in a spiral mode scale up to the maximum size. So I do it. I turn off the heated bed to the zero lover. The cooling fan to the 50% to make sure that the fan will not cause thin walls to wobble. And I start to print. After almost 16 hours of printing. The vase was finished and the results was perfect. [MUSIC] Just for the size comparing this is the ways that are printed at the maximum height on the a not a 10 huge difference in a maximum build size now. The closer look on the base, every layer from the bottom to the top is perfect, even printed in 0.2 millimeter layer height. The Alerus are totally melted into the one. This ways look like is the cost molded. Its perfect prints. I love it! You can clearly see under the light. How 10 it is, It’s only the 0.4 millimeter thick, not even one imperfection that. I found in this model great. I don’t know about you guys, but I think this Year 10’s owes us one more detail print, and that is the Terminator t800 the model from the Judgment Day. When I was a kid, I was a great fan of the Terminator movies, and I just could not resist not to print this model. This took 29 hours to complete, but I look at it for the lack of the better word. It’s awesome, even if I didn’t use any support or any infield. The quality of this print is amazing. There is a few version of t800 called, and I found this one has at least errors in it. I print out this model in a biodegrade ativ PLA filament and it seems to be printing. Just fine, all right. We have the skull what we missing the base Now. Let’s print the base now for printing the base. I add some infield and I had four top layers to make sure that I will have them nice and flat surface. See, our tennis did a great job there and the top surface. It’s like the glass. I use a printer fix spray again on the bottom, and it doesn’t leave any marks. The bottom is like glass too awesome. And now the whole package. The skull needs to be glued together, but let’s have a look. Yeah, it looks much better with a base on. Wow, this is awesome! I love it definitely looks much better with a base. This is definitely my favorite print. So far. Even printed with 0.2 resolution layer height, the surface is so smooth to the touch, and I cannot just stop looking into these great details and how well this model came out Big, thanks to the Makino from tinkers, who create this awesome model and now the speed test what you can see here is the Seer 10’s printing my favorite mobile staff at 100 millimeter to the second print speed and 200 millimeters a second travel speed well. See how we’ll handle it. Consider that that this huge printers are not built for the speed, but anyway, let’s test it and just to confirm that this video is not speed up in any way. This is recorded in 60 frames per second and the whole video 60 frames per second. So just sit back and enjoy the ride. This will not take too long. [MUSIC] And the printing is done and the mobile stand looking very good, really awesome results. The layers are perfect and they are looking so good like they are sanded this biodegrade of PLA filaments. Not only that is look very good. It brings very good to under the finger. It feels so smooth to also quality for the cheap price. Look at the layers, they are perfect and this is still 0.2 resolution. If you’re interesting into this. PLA filament have a look in a video description. You will find the links there and now the last test and there is a heated warming up time. Seer tennis hit 50 degrees under 5 minute. Add the maximum heated bed temperature after 25 minutes was 85 degrees, not quite enough for the good printing with ABS so installing installation under the heated bed is necessary if you planning to print with. ABS filament. I install insulation under the heated bed on my old Co 10 and I can reach 100 degrees on a heated bed, which is enough for printing abs. The best solution is, of course, adding enclosure to and guys there. You have it! That was my full review for the seer tennis. 2017 upgraded version. This 3d printer is a working horse and I absolutely love it. It can print small prints, it can print huge prints and all of that in also quality for hours and hours without a sweat. I definitely recommend this 3d printer to everybody and whichever version you choose, you can’t go wrong. With the seer 10 line, there is even a large version of the Seer 10 and the smaller version 2 reviews for both of them are coming very soon, so stay tuned for that. I hope did you like my review of the Seer 10 s. And if so, give this video thumbs up. Subscribe If you like. And if some of you guys like to order this or any other version of the seer 10 line, please have a look in the links in the video description till next time. Take care and good luck with your printing. Bye bye! [music] you!