Creality Cr-10s Pro Upgrades | 7 Fixes For The Cr-10s Pro – Unlock The Potential!

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7 Fixes For The Cr-10s Pro - Unlock The Potential!


The see our tennis pro has some problems. Well, here are seven fixes to maximize its potential When I reviewed the see our tennis pro from Cree Ality. I detailed several problems and you might think it’s a lost cause, but instead I’ve put another two to three hundred hours on this printer. Why because the print quality is so outstanding? A lot of my printing has been testing solutions for this video, but it’s also become a go-to printer because it prints so damn well in my opinion. This is a printer worth fighting for, so here’s a rundown of seven fixes that can maximize the potential of this printer. Most of them are free and or printable and links to everything you need are in the description. The firmware has no thermal runaway. So we’re gonna fix that. We’re gonna fix a melted fan duct, a jammed filament run-out sensor, poor film and path leading to fill a matte dust inconsistent, a B or probing, which leads to first layer woes, hard to remove prints as well as attempt to fix the noisy fans. Let’s start by addressing the firmware. If you weren’t aware thermal runaway protection is something that picks up if the thermistor or hot end heater gets separated, skyrocketing the temperature and having a good chance of something catching on fire, it’s an essential safety feature that’s been around for ages. However, many manufacturers still don’t include it in their printers, therefore at the time of recording. I recommend the tiny machine’s version of Marlin, which definitely has this enabled as I’ve personally verified it. This printer comes with a bootloader. So the only complication is also having to flush the firmware for the LCD. I’ve recently made a complete guide for this. Check out the link in the description. I’ll click the card appearing in the top corner of the screen. One down six. To Go partway through my review, period, the ducts for the part cooling fan, soften and separated and is now in two pieces. Fortunately, this is an easy fix the first time. I printed with ABS. I noticed the print had failed and on closer inspection. The part cooling fan duct was hanging off. In fact, it was actually snapped. I hit the Thingiverse and I found this duct first, but I found that it’s at and also that the air was pointing up instead of down below the nozzle. I then found this one, which I would highly recommend. It’s been working great for me for a month or so now. One of its key advantages is that it slots over the top of the entire fan and then has three bolts instead of a single bolt that hold it down in place. Even if it were to distort it, it shouldn’t have any chance of falling off and ruining the print. The cherry on top is that it doesn’t seem to diminish the cooling performance at all. I printed my replacement in ABS, but I also think ptg would be fine. If you’re stuck with only PLA filament maybe print a couple of spares in case one gets too soft and distorts. The next fix that we’re going to look at is the filament run-out sensor which for me became jammed. What’s wrong with this picture? Is that the light for the filament detection is on, despite there being no filament as I’ve disassembled it. I saw that the lever wasn’t activating the switch properly. The light remains on no matter. What, here’s how? I fixed it. I took out the actual electronic part with the two bolts, and then I got a set of needle nose pliers, and I gave it to Sir. Tiniest bend down in the middle as I put it back together. I verified that everything was working properly. It should only light up when the filament is actually going through. If you’re having trouble, pushing the filament through, rotate it towards unita degrees and everything should align nicely. Hopefully you don’t come across that problem, but in case you do, that’s how you can fix it next. We’re going to turn our attention to the sub-optimal filament path, which comes down from the top on a very steep angle on my first long print. I notice excessive filament dust buildup from this very problem. Luke Hatfield, who gives so much of the community, has this great design on Thingiverse which I highly recommend It uses a 608 zedzee bearing which you can find it in a fidget spinner or a skateboard. I tried to emulate Iver Miranda. In the way that I inserted the bearing into the printed part. But I guess I just didn’t have the skill instead. I turned to a little vice, and I use it to press it in which was very effective and getting it in and getting it aligned part of the reason. I like this design is that it requires no other hardware. It’s got a nice press fit pin that clicks nicely into place to hold the whole thing together. And then when you mount it to the printer, there’s a little to help you line it up with the metal part. Myton went on with a satisfying click, and it didn’t make loading filament any harder than before. I put this little bit of black permanent marker on it, so you can see it working perfectly and fixing this problem now for a big one, and that’s first layer consistency. If you read the community groups for this printer, it’s something a lot of people have struggled with, and there’s no physical end Stop for the z-axi’s It relies instead on this contactless probe in making this video. I’ve had many many prints with the perfect first layer. So here’s what I did a quick recap when I reviewed the printer. Half of my prints were too far from the bed and didn’t stick while others were far too close and left A permanent imprint in the bed linked in the description is a page from tiny machines with an excellent and thorough guide on calibrating this probe in that video, they recommend using the plastic spacer that comes with the printer, But I also tried doing it with a credit card, which I found was a little bit too low in the end. I got my best results by having the shim underneath the nozzle and one of the little spanners from the tool set underneath the probe. When you complete your next print, you will, of course, have to hit the adjust button and move the nozzle down to set the Z offset for me. Once I got that dialed in. The printer remained entirely consistent from that point onwards now. I can’t promise that it’s gonna work the same for you, but hopefully it’s gonna help a number of people. Next problem for me is the print bed, and the problem for me is that it sticks too. Well, any time you have to hack it. It that hard with a scraper. It becomes inherently dangerous now. I should acknowledge some comments in my previous videos that said. If you heat up the heated bed after the print is finished, it does soften it and it comes a little bit easier to come off, and I tried that, and it was definitely easier but for me. This printer is so nice that it deserved a better solution. Enter the wham-bam flexible build system. I’ve covered this before on the end of three so. I’ll keep this brief. You’re firstly gonna slide out the clips on the front and then slide the aluminium plate with the fake buildtak towards the front. All four clips have a little nut underneath, and then a hex key can remove them. You can put them into storage as you won’t be needing them for this system, use some IPA and a paper towel to remove any fingerprints because next we’re going to put on the base magnetic layer that has adhesive on the bottom. We then take the spring steel sheet and put it into place and then we get some IPA and remove any fingerprints from that as well. Now we’re going to apply the PX sheet. Once again, working from the back to the front to avoid any air bubbles. Peel off the protective safety sheet. The final step is to get some more IPA and some steel wool clean it down and scuff it at the same time before your first print, bring the bed and the nozzle up to temp and recalibrate your probe. You also might need to adjust your Z offset on your first print after I had this set up. The good news is it stayed consistent the entire time when the print is finished, just a little flecks and the parts popped straight off the PE X surface also gives them a nice, shiny finish underneath. Here’s a more difficult print as you can see. It’s stuck on really well after everything is cooled down, but I flex it to so tiniest bit and it pops straight off. This was a tricky print as evidenced by this result on the glass bed of another printer for me. This upgrade has transformed the printer. It’s just so much easier to use now and everything sticks reliably as a bonus. It’s almost 100 grams lighter than the factory aluminium bed, which means it heats up even faster now that does cost money, and therefore it’s not for everyone. You could use glass instead and remember. The best solution is the one that works for you personally. I’m really happy with the system, and I fitted it to several of my 3d printers. Lastly, and the one that I’ve had the least amount of success with is replacing this for one of these to try and reduce the printer’s noise. The Stepper Motor drivers might be quiet on this printer, But when it’s sitting idle, it’s very loud, thanks to the fans. [MUSIC] Thingiverse to the rescue once again with this mount for a cheap 50 by 10 computer fan the main offender. Is this blower fan that goes over the main board? It’s an unusual choice for this type of application. You’re going to start by unplugging it and then removing the two screws that hold it onto the bottom of the frame. It’s the same as a pipe cooling fan. So now you have a spare? The new fan needs to be mounted with its sticker facing the main board. You will need additional hardware in the form of some m4 screws that cut a thread as they’re inserted into the printed part, you’ll also need to drill at the mounting holes with a 5.5 millimeter drill bit. Otherwise it won’t push down far enough to sit flush and have the bottom cover of the printer fit back on plug in the new fan and have a look from the side. It should just clear the bottom of the printer. According to my trusty meter, we have 1/8 Disabil duction at idle. It’s an improvement, but it’s hardly what you’d call quiet. That’s because there’s also a cooling fan at the bottom of the case and the fan integrated into the meanwhile power supply is very loud when it comes on, it is quieter, So I’m only just giving this one a tick. That thing has two versions. If you want to try a smaller fan, so check it out in the description below, also linked in the description is a more comprehensive video that goes through how to change all of the fans. If you actually want this thing to be significantly more quiet, that’s going to wrap this one up. Thank you so much for watching. If you have any thoughts or suggestions, please leave them in the comments below and until next time, Happy, 3d printing. Gday, It’s Michael again. If you liked the video, then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click. Subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification. If you really want to support the channel and see exclusive content, become a patron, visit my patreon page. See you next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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