Creality Cr-10s Pro Review | Cr-10s Pro Review Vs. Cr-10 3d Printer

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Cr-10s Pro Review Vs. Cr-10 3d Printer


Wow, what a fantastic print! This is this is the Voronoi version of my stepped bin and this absolutely clean print came off of the CR-10S Pro that I have right here. This is the latest CR-10 style printer from Creality. It came out two years after the original CR-10, and even though the prints are absolutely fantastic today. I’ll be telling you why you might be better off going with the original. I’ll tell you all about it and today’s review here. I’ll make anything cool. Hey, friends! Devin, here with make anything and today. I’m reviewing the new CR-10S Pro by Creality. It’s not entirely new. It’s about 8 months old, but I like to thoroughly test my printers, and I’ve had two of these for about six months today. I’m gonna be looking at all the cool new features of the CR-10S Pro and also explaining why I would still go with the CR-10 as someone who’s new to 3d printing. The CR-10 is absolutely one of my very favorite printers, and if you check out the favorites section of my website, you’ll see that it’s my number one recommended printer for people getting into 3d printing. I’ve had so much time to get to know this CR-10 printer, and you might notice that I have several upgrades that. I’ll tell you about, but first let’s take a look at the new CR Tennis pro and what that’s got going for it. The S Pro is definitely the sleekest CR-10 yet with all the controls built directly into the redesigned base underneath the tried and true classic rectangular CR-10 frame, the simple LCD screen and physical control knob on the original CR-10 has been replaced with this nice large full-color touchscreen, which makes it really easy to navigate the menu and get to all the different settings, including the all-new leveling mode, which probes 16 points across the build surface in order to account for warping or other inconsistencies. The S Pro now features an all metal extrusion system, including dual BondTec extruder gears that lead to a high-quality Capricorn PTFE tubing, and there’s also a filament run-out sensor like many run-out sensors. It doesn’t detect film it jams, but if you run out of filament clean, it’ll pause the print and wait for you to put more filament in so you can resume the print. What used to be multiple loose Cables have now been consolidated into one nice flat ribbon cable, which certainly helps with organization and the z-axi’s now runs on two steppers and two threaded rods, which is meant to help with stability likewise. The heated bed now moves along two aluminum extrusions instead of just one as it did on the original. CR 10 the 24 volt power supply doubles the voltage going into the heated bed, which means it can heat up much quicker, reaching 110 degrees Celsius in about five minutes. We’ve also got the steppers running on TMC Trinamic drivers, which make this the most quiet CR 10 yet sure, for the extra 200 dollars, you are getting a lot of new features on the CR 10’s Pro, But if you’re like me. The one thing that really matters is print quality here in front of me. I’ve got a small selection of prints done on my CR-10, my CR-10S and my CR-10S Pro printers. And if you take a good look at them, you might find that they all look pretty much. The same fantastic they all have an amazing print quality. The prints that you can get off of this printer and this printer will both look fantastic. As long as you’ve got, it tuned and tinkered with even if the S pro has some feature that you really like, you’re often better off, just adding that upgrade to the CR 10 yourself that said the main reason that I prefer the CR 10 is that the CR 10 S has some upgrades that I actually consider downgrades. They’re making the experience less enjoyable for me. First of all, there’s the build surface. I really like the glass build plate that comes on the CR. 10 glass is awesome because it leaves you with a really clean, shiny finish on the bottom, and it’s really easy to remove prints. If you just let the build plate, cool down prints, usually just pop right off. If you do have problem with bed adhesion, add a little bit of hairspray, and that’ll usually do the trick now. The CR 10S Pro has this aluminum build plate with buildtak on top of it, First of all aluminum build plates do have a tendency to warp as they heat up and cool down over and over again and build tech unless the build plate is removable and flexible. So you can just bend the build plate and pop off prints. Bill Tak is really finicky, and I find that half of the time The prints are too close, and it’s really hard to remove prints and you often end up having little chips somewhere in the print where you slammed it with the spatula or the prints don’t adhere very well. Also, you’re left with a print surface that is more matte, and it often has traces of the filament from the last thing you printed stuck to it. It’s just not so great you can already see. There’s a chunk missing be as one of my prints was sticking too hard and that spatula just took out a chunk of build. Tech glass is just so much better in my opinion, It’s so much more forgiving with Bill Tech. Your bed has to be absolutely perfectly level, or you might run into some problems, and that leads to my next and biggest problem with the CR 10’s Pro, and that’s the Auto leveling the see. Our tennis pro has this little conductive sensor, which it uses to probe the plate at different points and auto level the printer. Unfortunately, it’s just not implemented very well at all with the Cr 10’s Pro when I first got these printers, it was truly terrible because every time you turn the printer off and on again, all the settings for the auto leveling were erased, so you’d have to run an auto level every time you restart your printer in the past few months. Cree Ality released a new firmware, so I had to flash that new firmware in there, and now it does save those settings, but it’s still not consistent. So even if you have those leveling settings in there, the Z height just isn’t always the same, so sometimes it’s too close to the bed, and sometimes it’s a little too high, right like two prints back-to-back you’ll have that problem and that is never an issue. I’ve had with the CR 10 manual. Leveling is not that difficult, especially on the CR 10 I mean, it’s just a matter of tuning these little knobs on the bottom. I often do it. As the print is starting, and once you’ve got it down, it’s there you can print over and over again and you’re not going to have a problem as with this Cr 10’s where it tries to do the conductive leveling and every time it’s off by a fraction of a millimeter. Luckily, the CR 10 s pro does have a baby Z. Step option in the print, so you can manually adjust the height of the nozzle very slightly as the print is going on, but it’s just so much easier on the CR 10 that I don’t really understand the lure here, also because this printer has to probe the center of the bed before every print you lose the ability to do certain techniques like the multi pass multicolor technique that I’ve used on the CR 10 printer to create really nice. Multicolor prints can’t really do that as easily on the CR 10’s Pro, the same goes with some other cool upgrades that I’ve done on the CR 10 You can’t attach this extruder knob to manually feed film it as well as this knob to manually adjust the Z height. You can’t do this on the CR Tennis Pro. Because it has those dual zere odds personally. I’ve never had any problems with this CR 10 Regarding this single Z thread. There are plenty of ways to adjust this beam to make sure that it’s really sturdy and rolls up and down smoothly and structurally sound. If you live somewhere where you constantly lose power. You’re not going to be able to resume prints with the CR 10 but you can on the CR 10’s pro, but you can also do that on the CR 10’s model, which is right between these two. That model has the dual Z rods. It has the power resume function and it also has the filament run-out sensor. So if anything, I would go for that model before going all the way to the CR 10 S Pro, just because of that leveling issue and other little problems. I’ve mentioned it’s definitely nice that this has a 24 volt power supply versus the 12 volt supply here. The bed can heat up a lot quicker. It’s a quieter printer. It’s got drivers that are a lot more silent. It’s also got that touchscreen, which is a little easier to navigate than this old-school knob on the CR 10 Those are some great features that the C. Our tennis pro has that the C R 10 doesn’t have, but they’re just not necessary to me, and you know, I like to save money where I can so in terms of just getting a great print. The CR 10 does it as well as the S Pro. The CR-10S Pro is a bit more compact. I really do like that unified body, but I was able to basically reduce the width of the CR-10 by just as much with a few extra upgrades. I printed these CR-10S legs that Agustin floalistik designed and I’ll link to those in the description and that allowed me to put the whole power unit underneath the printer, which saves some space as well as this top loading spool holder that I designed, which is also really nice. All right there you have it. The CR 10 the CR 10 s. Pro both fantastic printers. I love Criolla T, but I gotta say I’m still going with the CR 10 or maybe the CR 10 s. I do have a previous mega review on those two printers as well as the Ender 3 and some other CR 10 style printers. If you want to learn a bit more about these machines, I hope you found this video informative, and if you’re interested in purchasing one of these machines. I’d really appreciate it if you use the affiliate links in the description. They don’t cost you any extra money, but they do. Give me a small cut. I will also put links to download the STL files for all the suite upgrades. I did on the CR 10 as well as these really cool models that I’ve been printing Some of them, at least others. I’m still working on, but if you’re subscribed, you’ll get them soon enough. Finally, if you’re watching this video way in the future, I would suggest checking out my website. Make anything Dot design slash favorites for a more up-to-date list on my currently recommended printers. Well, then that’s it for today’s video. I hope you enjoyed it. I hope it was informative. If you still have any questions, go ahead and ask them in the comments. I try to read every single one, and yeah, that’s it. So until next time, I’m Devon, this is Make. Anything and as always stay inspired.

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