Creality Cr-10 S5 Review | Creality Cr-10s5 3d Printer Review And Thoughts


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Creality Cr-10s5 3d Printer Review And Thoughts


Hey, guys, welcome back so today. We are gonna be talking about. Mike, reality, CR 10 S 5 3d printer. Now, as you may be able to see. This thing is pretty gigantic, and that is extremely handy now up until the last two weeks. I haven’t really used this printer to its full potential so once. I started the public that project that I showed in my last video. I started printing larger pieces and everything. I’d done before that was I did a couple, OK? Size things like I did a helmet display stand from Sean Fields, which I’m gonna do a whole video on these soon. But that was the largest thing prior to the boat that built and that barely made a dent on this printer area this print area, so I felt like it wasn’t really enough to, you know, give a proper review So now that I’ve printed a whole bunch of big stuff? I feel like I can go over the the ins and outs of this printer and overall it’s been really, really good. I would definitely recommend this printer. So, umm, as you can see here. I have a Boba. Fett torso, Which I showed in my previous video? The reason this is up here is because to date. This is the largest print that I’ve ever done and any means I hired out or anything and in one piece, so even though it’s two colors. This is a one piece print. I just ran out of filament halfway through, but you can see it’s how deep it is and how the height and the width and everything is. It’s a big print now. This print only took 62 hours and I ran the machine. It like 70 to 75% speed. The whole time which? I’ll get into that in a minute. But that is less than three days to print something. This large is pretty amazing. I think wouldn’t be possible to print this whole thing that speed without the one modification that I’ve done to this printer, which is to swap the nozzle. The extruder nozzle that comes with is a point four millimeter nozzle, which is pretty standard on most 3d printers most. Fdm printers have a point four millimeter nozzle as a default, not almost same with this one, but that just takes way too long, so by switching to a point eight millimeter nozzle. I also have a one millimeter. Özil tried that yet, but by switching to a point eight millimeter nozzle, it cuts your print time down considerably more than half. Because now you can in a print higher layer heights in the same time. So if you have a big print like this where you have areas where you know, a giant layer doesn’t matter. You can print big layer. Heights, like you know, a point. Four millimeter layer height, which is pretty tall and it also uses less passes to make the same wall thickness. So if I’m using doing a one point, six six one point six millimeter wall thickness on the part, which is a pretty good thickness for something like this that would take four passes with the previous nozzle, whereas with this nozzle, it only takes two, so you have two passes, so even if I’m printing it. The same layer height, it’s taking half the time just at the same layer height, so you’re cutting the print times down by almost 75% by swapping two of nozzle like this, which you know again on a printer of this big that makes a lot of sense. If this is your only printer, that’s a decision. I have to make because you do lose a little bit of detail on some of the corners and so forth, but not that much. If you have other printers like I do, I’m trying to set them up from different situations so anyway. I’ll stop rambling about that, but you know, that is the only thing. I’ve changed on this printer. Is that nozzle? Everybody told me like. Oh, you’re gonna need to get a volcano extruder. You’re gonna need all this stuff. You don’t need any of that stuff. Just just swap the nozzle. Turn the temperature up a little bit more than you would for some other filaments and you will be fine. This thing is printed for weeks now. Basically non-stop and I printed. You know, stuff, this tall. This is the rocket for Bubba. Fett stack in a full helmet, one shot full helmet mm-hmm, which again a really good thing about having a printer that can print stuff that’s big is. You can do this in one piece. You don’t have to do any assembly now. Is there going to be cleanup? Yeah, but I’m not worried about that anyway. So let me get this out of the way, so we can take a proper look here as I break everything, so that’s the great stuff about it’s being on print huge things. It’s fantastic, also as you saw on that that previous piece, there’s a part where the the filament ran out and had to swap the filament switch on this. It’s really basic, but it does a very good job of stopping and picking back up where it left off, so if you run out of filament, especially on a big print where you can’t watch it for days and days if it runs out of filament, it will stop and when you put the new filament in, it does pick back up right where it left off, which always makes me nervous. I’m always concerned it’s gonna be offset or anything, but I’ve had to do it on just about every one of my prints here, and they’ve all worked perfectly so that is a giant plus, but the switch is really basic. It’s literally just a switch, so if the filament runs out, it’ll stop, but if the filament breaks here or starts to grind out for some reason, it won’t pick that up if it’s long if there’s filming in the switch and something goes wrong somewhere else is a clogged. It’ll keep running, but I only had two prints go bad because of that. I’ll get into those in a moment when I talk about the bad stuff I sent a bad thing. Now those were actually. I think a problem with the g-code, so ignore that last comment, but yeah, the switch is like a it’s a physical switch. It’s not like the the proof so back here has a basically world like a laser mouse like you use for a computer so it can actually sense whether the filament is moving, so if there’s a clog in the Prusa, whether the filament runs out or not, it will stop the printer, which is really, really nice and this doesn’t have that, but just know that the switch works. We’ll stop on that one. Now then it’s been really, really reliable. That’s the next part for not that. I’ve used it for ever, but for the amount of printing. I’ve done the last two weeks. I haven’t had anything. Go wrong with the printer. It hasn’t done anything bizarre or have a freak out that, you know is is upsetting or makes me question. It it’s been working really well. I feel like I’m starting to really trust it, which is good. Um, that’s a big thing for me, especially on something that prints stuff this large. You don’t want to leave the house and worry whether you’re gonna come home and it’s gonna be all jacked up, so let’s see some other stuff notes. I should say when I got the printer. It came with this adhesion pad sticky thing, which was good while it lasted, but it wore out sort of quick. So I started using glue. I went into a whole video on this too now. I’ve switched to this Loctite spray adhesive for my my bed surface. It’s worked great. I haven’t had any problems with adhesion at all since using this. So that’s good. One thing I would recommend is running. The bed temperature slightly lower. Like I’m big printing PLA. A lot of people print. PLA like 60-degree bed temperature. I’m doing it at 30 because what happens is if it times out and the filaments if it stops because of the filament running out, it goes into pause, but it doesn’t keep the heat on for the heat bed, so your print bed will contract in expand and contract due to the temperature, and if it contracts too much, your part is going to come undone, so if you’re going from sixty degrees down to like, 20 degrees or whatever, the ambient temperature, the room is, the part could just pop loose just because of that, so you don’t want to pause your print and have the part break loose in printing at 30 but PLA is totally fine. Works great, so let’s see. I made some little notes here too. Over all the other things get into like the bad stuff, which this is being nitpicky. I’m just covering these things just to say, you know things. I’ve run into the printer when it’s off. If you push the sides here up or down, it will actually move a little bit, so you have to be careful. If you’re changing your filament. If you’re putting too much pressure here, it will move unless the printer is on and you have it pause or something. Then it won’t move anywhere, but if you have it just off, you can actually move this rod a little bit. And then the printer will be misaligned. When you go to start printing again. It’s very easy to fix like you can literally just do it by hand, You know, bring this the little gantry all the way down to the bed and check it, and it’ll, it’s usually pretty easy to fix, but just the thing to know now that. I know to do that it does that. I’m just careful not to like, push on the bar at all when I’m messed with the printer and it’s been fine. I’ve been able to just hit start and the prints start up. Just fine. No adjustments to make between Prince Eric. I will still check when I start the print to make sure that it’s adhering to the bed properly. Sometimes it just needs a little tweak here and there, but it’s it’s been really good about that. Um, let’s see it’s a bit noisy, but it’s a big printer. So when it when it again. I’m staying back next to the things you can see the scale, but the the vertical rods. They’re back here. It’s not gonna do it because this is too high up, But when this the horizontal, the x-axis is down, lower the rods, the threaded rods shake a little bit and they rattle at the top of the printer and it makes some noise. I might put some foam in there. Maybe, like some just something to kind of buffer that a little bit so a little noisy, especially compared to like the proof. So which is dead, Quiet, a little bit noisy, not terrible and because it’s so big in, it’s a Cartesian sound printer, which means that the bed goes back and forth when you get into the really small movements to think shakes a lot and this, even with just a barely a print on here. Just the weight of the bed with the glass can cause, like a lot of shaking of the whole table. So you know, there’s probably a way to remedy that. Maybe, like some soccer rubber feet or some like a little foam pads on the feet or something to kind of, like, just calm the shakedown of the whole area, But the printer does move a lot and there’s a lot of momentum, so you get into the problem that when you have a really big print, that’s gonna take up a big chunk of the bed If it’s doing, fill on the top and then the printer is going back and forth really fast. There’s a lot of mass to deal with because moving the entire model the entire print bed. It gets pretty crazy, which is why? I ended up turning the speed down which I mentioned earlier. I’ll put the speed from like I started it a hundred when I’m at the low low end of the thing, and I’m just getting the basic layers. I’ll run it at a hundred percent, but as soon as it starts to get a little bit higher, I start slowly dialing it down as it gets tall like this. I’ll turn this down to like sixty percent. Maybe even fifty. It’s just so that if it’s doing, fill at the top and the print bed is moving back and forth, it’s not going to knock the print off of the printer, so for something like this, It’s really like a pretty tall print. You know, you see this on the on the crib, but it doesn’t have much of a base to grip on to, and it’s pretty tall if that print beds moving back and forth really quick, it’s gonna shake it off of the print bed, So that is a drawback to this printer design in general, which almost all my printers work like this, but it’s a drawback to not having the bed actually rise in vertical space. That’s a much better print design, but it’s a lot more expensive so anyway, it’s just a thing to consider, however, just remember that even when this printer is turned down to like 50% of 60% It’s still printing faster than it would if I use the different nozzle because of the point, eight million, your nozzle. It’s still printing faster than it would be if I was using a point. Four millimeter. Not keep that in mind, So I don’t mind turning it down a little bit. If it’s starting to get tall, that’s a thing to consider, let’s see here. I’m also thinking about if there’s a way to take this glass off and swap this for another material like the Prusa has a sheet bed, a cheap bed, a sheet metal bed that’s flexible, and I’m really curious whether I can’t come up with something like that. For this printer, that’s a lot lighter and removable, because that would be nice just to be able to just pop it off and then take a print off without having to dig in there and scrape, so I might try to custom. Make something like that and see if it works if it does, you know, teach you guys how to do it. I don’t know something I’m thinking about, because, yeah, it was just a piece of glass on here with no print ways enough that it makes everything shake, so yeah, shaking a little bit noisy, but again, the prints have come out pretty nice and it’s been reliable. I mean, I’ve got like full giant pieces here. Wow, Wow, lets! See what else I put on here? Umm, did it -, dude? The sorry-sorry? Oh, the access to the adjustments for the bed are like way underneath here, which isn’t too bad on the front, but on the back to get around to the back of the printer and adjust the bed. It’s kind of a pain like. I said before it’s been pretty consistent now that I’ve got it set up and it’s been running a lot. It’s been really consistent. I haven’t had to do a dead adjustments, except for a minor little twist here, but not nothing big, so that’s not a big deal, but when you’re setting it up and you’re trying to get everything right and just reach around the back of the thing and try to level the bed is kind of a pain. There’s that, and they make some for the regular. Sheraton, they make these knob adaptors that make it a lot easier to reach, but it does not work on this printer because the Y-axi’s guide rods here are too close to the adjustments. So anyway, that’s a gripe. It’s not really a big deal, lets. See, what is the next one? The Bowden tube right here this? This might be my, It’s not my biggest gripe. It’s kind of like the thing you have to pay attention to the most is tube that the Bowden tube that runs the filament is very long, so when if the print goes back really far, this can catch on the print, which is not good because it can take it can knock the print down, which is. I had happen. One time they can just snag in weird ways and cause issues that are bad. So what I end up Doing Is taking a coat hanger. I take a coat hanger and then like a lanyard. This is looks really pretty right, and I basically hang it up here and then just use this to look the Bowden tube up out of the way, and then I’ll just have to adjust every few hours. We’ll, come in and check it and Ill. Just, you know, give it some more tension. But, uh, focus camera. There we go, but that that’s kind of a drawback, not bad. Um, let’s see didn’t have anything else on here. Bowden, Tube 2 long, hard adjust. Um, yeah. I mean, that’s pretty much it. Those are kind of my only my only gripe so far everything works really well. There’s a couple things in the menus on the printer that are sort of strange like there’s a menu for control, and it’s instead of giving you. Options to the ax sees the ax is to control the motors. The wear the printer position is that is in the prepare menu. It’s not a big deal, but it’s just sort of sort of dumb and again when it pauses a print. I wish that it would leave the bed heated so that it wouldn’t. I wouldn’t have to worry about the pieces popping loose now. I haven’t had that happen yet, but it what it definitely could happen. So those are kind of my only complaint so far overall, it’s worked really well. I’ve made a whole bunch of nice size prints off of it. We’ll see in five months if it’s still doing a good job, but very happy with this so far now if I was recommending a printer like this. If somebody like everybody’s good. Hey, get this giant printer in your house. I would definitely say get one. If you’re gonna print big stuff, it’s great. If it’s your only printer, you may want to keep all the nozzles handy and don’t be scared to swap the nozzles on in the printer. It’s not that hard to do, so it fits your only printer, and you need to print small stuff. You can use the smaller nozzle, obviously, but it goes back to the whole thing. Is that if you’re printing small stuff? But you’re running this big printer. You run into those same issues with just running it at full speed and the shaking, Whereas if I print on my Prusa, I get a really really clean print. If it’s something smaller, it comes out really nice, and it runs way faster than I can run this one, so yeah. There is a trade-off there for something that’s big, obviously. I can’t do it on my other printers anyway. I’ll stop rambling here. Look, and all this all the goodies here. Kenner Blaster. Well, yeah, I would recommend it. It’s good anyway. Thanks for guys. Thanks guys for stopping by. I’m gonna just upload this one Take, so I apologize for any excess rambling that you may have heard. If you have questions on the quality art ns5 3d printer, let me know. I’ll try to answer them below. If there’s anything I didn’t talk about, but again overall, I totally recommend this printer. It’s been really good for the time that I’ve used it, so I will be back again and soon with some more stuff on this. Bubba, that process was. I get to it anyway. I’ll stop rambling. Geez, I’m getting out here later. Guy’s, bye!

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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