Hey, guys, next here. Back with another video today. We’re gonna do the review of the Cree a Leticia 10 mini. So stay tuned, okay. First, let’s do the unboxing and then bills here 10 minute. I already mentioned how well created 3d pack. Their 3d printers and CR 10 mini is without exceptions protection. Foam kept everything in a place, Nice and secure when you get everything from the box. You ended up with up and lower frame part carton box, which contains tools, instructions, control box and 200 grams of PLA filament and now let’s Assembly this year 10 9 first I free the heater bed from the plastic foil. Then I check the heated bed underneath. There is a three eccentric, a drastic nuts which need to be addressed to the proper level. I use the supply tool and I screw them tight. One by one to the point that the sliding heated bed is not too tight or not too loose. When you slide the frame, all six rolls will need to roll equal and they should not slip. And when you move three adjusting wheels with the hand, they should move under the same force. And then you get it perfect and now just a double check and it looks nice. Next step is to frizzy carrot. I cut the zip ties and I removed the plastic foil next. I check the bottom screws holes for any left of aluminium metal shavings. I make sure that the holes are nice and clean. Then I place upper part of the frame and I use four screws with washer two on each side. Now don’t over, tighten screws on one side until you add screws on opposite side next. I install the frame bracket on which is the Z End microswitch. Then I gently scroll down flexible coupling screws one by one with a baby steps to make sure that all screws are just right, and they’re not over tight. If you over tighten screws, then it will twist one side of the Flex coupling, and that would cause wobbling in your prints, then I move the Stepper motor with a hand and I concentrate on the coupling and treadeth rod to make sure there is no wobbling. Then I install the Teflon tube. It simply clicks into place. Extruder spring is a nice and tight and it feels good. Next step is a wiring cable with a metal plug and goes in a back of the control box and it screws down nice and secure then. I plug heated bed cable cable end mark with the I plugs on the heated Bed Stepper Motor and I stop Switch Next Step is Extruder X Stepper and stop switch and the last easy stop switch, and you’re done with wiring pretty much here. I use the zip ties to secure the cables, but this is totally optional, and you can skip this step if you want next. I install the spool holder holding with the two screws and I stole the filaments that I receive in a package. Most people will use this filament and I think it’s a fair first to test printer with this cheap PLA filament to see what results we get until we start to using some expensive filament and the last step is the plugging AC cable and we are done. See, our 10 mini is alive. Now let’s run some specs and do the overview, see? Our 10 mini has a build volume of 300 by 220 by 300 millimeters, so it’s a bit smaller than a regular CR 10 but it is still bigger than average Prusa i3 kids. It has the same boat and set up with a zero point four millimeter nozzle, which you can replace two other size as well dock nozzle is upgraded like on the CL 10s and a few plastic parts like end caps and the top bracket are not really printed no more instead, they’re made of injection molded plastic, which is nice, just like the Sierra 10 frame of the CRT and mini is made from aluminum rails with three slots on which hold correspond increased load bearing wheels. Heated bed has removable glass, which is very nice and you can easily. Remove the prints without messing up with the heated bed inside the control box. There is a 360 watt power supply with automatic fan speed, depending on the load. There is also heated bed external. Mosfe’t just like on the regular shear 10 In fact, the main difference between the CR 10 and the certain mini is in size and the stealth black design with no racing, orange or blue strips. Now, before the first test print, I heat up the printer and extrude the filament to clean up the nozzle from the factory test black PLA, when filament becomes white, I level the printer with the a4 paper, load my G code and start to print and my first test print is always hollow Cube 20 by 20 millimeters with the two parameters on the bottom and on the wall’s, print speed is at 20 millimeters a second layer height is 0.2 and the temperature are 195 degrees on hotend and 55 degrees on here at bat to make print sticks Better on the glass. I use a printer fix. After 18 minutes, printing was done, and now it’s time to see results. I’m very happy to see that results are no change and the seer 10 Mini has exactly the same print quality like the Big Brother, indeed, very nice results. Laser is nice and smooth and the feed rates is good. Cooling is a great tool time to move on on the next paint. We twist the 3d Benjy, by the way I’m still using the white Pla that I got from the printer and here we see results on the first 3d Benjy printed in a 0.2 millimeter layer height temperature here was 195 degrees on the hot end and 40 degrees on heated bed print speed was a 40 millimeters a second and the travel 100 millimeters. A second results are great. There is no imperfection, and I really like how this 3d entry turns out. It’s a bit hard to see because of the white color, but I will print 3d Benjy a few more times in this review using the other color. My next print is the lighthouse again using this cheap filament that I got with a printer results again. Great settings that I use was exactly the same like on the 3d boundary and temperature seems to get right on this type of PLA again. It’s a bit hard to see all the details on the camera because of the white filament, but I can see every single detail, including the tiny windows and the details from the roof and on the rocks awesome. Now I load the 3d Benjy again, and I only change here. The layer height to 0.1 millimeter, and I use the cheap red PLA filament in case. Somebody wonder of my retraction speed. Its 80 millimeters. A second and retraction distance is 6.5 millimetres. Fan speed is or 90 percent 3d boundary in red looks very good. All details are present. Surface is smooth overall, very nice quality on this test print on 0.1 millimeter layer height. Okay, now we know that this year 10 mini can print on 0.1 millimeter very good, but how about 0.05 millimeter layer height or the 50 microns this time? I use the more matte color red PLA and I use again The same settings, but I lower the layer height from 0.1 millimeter to 0.05 millimeter results are great. Seer ten-minute did a great job here. Printing in a 50 micron’s surface is a very smooth and this ribbon tree looks great, not that I will use so high print resolution every day, but still it’s good to know that certain minica’m print in a 50 micron’s pretty good. This can be very handy, for example, if you pin some small prints or action figures that needs to be printed in the highest possible resolution. I personally don’t use so often. That high resolution 0.1 millimeter or 100 microns is enough for me for most of my project. My next print is the cat in the box that I downloaded from the tinkers from awesome designer called Luba. 3d cheese model is a printed is 0.15 millimetres, layer height, 0% infill and no support print speed is the 45 millimeters. A second temperature was 190 degrees on the hot end and 40 degrees heated bed again. I used a printer fix spray. I use just two parameters on the walls and results are very good. This model looks great and it’s a very easy to print as well. I’m very happy with these results now. Since I mentioned a little bit. Vidi, We got to print the Sorceress. Here I use pretty much The same print settings like before only I changed the bring option. 20% infill and 0.15 millimetres layer height again with no support. Results are awesome. She is a beauty! I love the Sorceress. And a little bit did phenomenal job design in this gorgeous 3d model? This is so well printed and I love it. You can see a level of the details that came out perfectly even at 150 microns. I don’t found even one imperfection in this print. It looks awesome now. The sorceress is not a free 3d model and it cost around two. US dollars to my opinion. It’s totally worth. It causes gorgeous now for my next couple of prints. I decided to print two vases and the Christmas tree, using a printer procure filament, which is very similar to the wood filament, but is a very easier to print with this pure filament prints just as easy as the PLA, and it leaves a rough uni surface and pretty much in this Belarus, even at 0.25 millimeter layer, height, wazes and the quality models Look so good when they are printing with this a print abroad. Pure filament. I love it! Christmas tree looks so good in this color and this matte surface. This vase looks great, too. Very cool, surface, invisible layers and nice to touch. Look and feels great then. I draw some yellow PLA and I print this rocket and it came out absolutely perfect. This rocket is a printed in a basement in a full 300 millimeter height in just one parameter and the walls are only 0.4 millimeter. Thick layer height is 0.2 millimeter print speed was 35 millimeters. A second temperature was 195 degrees, and the cooling fan was set to only 50% to make sure that the tin walls won’t wobble like on this one that are printed with hunger percent. Fan speed. Sometimes you have to lower the fan speed, depending on the model. You print, especially if you print something in a vase mode, which is very thin. Sierra Leone shows very nice results printing in a vase mode and this rocket looks awesome, and now it’s time to get some more details. I use a print appropri Mia’m PLA filament and I print the stove. In 0.1 millimeter layer, height, levels of the details are fantastic on this model. These tiny bricks, stairs, corners, edges and the rocks came out fantastic. I really like the quality of these filaments and the color, and that’s why I decided to print the moon CD from kijiye from tinkers and here it is moon city printed in Hunger percent scale in 0.2 millimeter layer height print speed was 40 millimeters a second temperature on hot end was 195 degrees, And I use zero degrees on heated bed. Thanks to brim option in Acura and a printer fixed spray. I print this model with 10% infill with no support and print. I’m took 17 hours to complete results that I get are really awesome. I love design of this 3d model, and I’m really impressed. How well, this moon? City model is designed and how cool it looks with all these structures and buildings inside amazing job. Ki jiye well done now. It’s time for the speed test. This is a certain mini printing mobile stand in 100 M element to the second print speed and 200 millimeters a second travel speed temperature here that I use is 210 degrees on hot and 60 degrees on heated bed. Fan speed is set to 100% Filament flow is set to 108 percent, and now we will see what results we going to get and the results are very good. This mobile stand wall top and bottom are just two parameter stick. I could use at least three top layers, but even so very good results. Indeed, certain mini has a lower mass on heated bed, compared to the Seer 10 and that reduced mass on the I axis give better results in a speed test than the seer 10 and now the noise test when printer is an idle noise is around 47 decibel. When printer is printing at full speed noise is around 59 decibel, which is not too bad. Now it’s time to test the heated bed and it was interesting to see on my thermal camera that most of the heat comes first on the right side, the bed and then spread to the left heel bed time was pretty good and the seer, 10 min hits 50 degrees under 2 minutes and the maximum temperature without any insulation under the heated bed was 112 degrees, which is very good and you can print abs on the seer 10 Mini, Even without any modification just to confirm on my thermal camera. It shows around 101 degrees on a glass surface, heated bed main cable’s temperature. After 30 minutes of full stress, it was stable on around 41 point. One degrees control box is a pretty cool and stable and only place under control box were exhaust. Hot air from power supply is the temperature peaks around 39 degrees, And now the final thoughts, just like the Seer 10 and the Seer, 10 s seer, 10 min is another great with the printer from Cree. Led 3d I like this 3d printer because it’s so simple. Design frame is a strong, very robust and it’s a very easy to reach all the compound assembly. Time is the less than 30 minutes. Bring quality is a great, and there is a huge community behind. Co tent 3d printers. So there is a many upgrades that you can do in a future -. I have a nothing there a great experience with the Seer, 10 Mini and the only negative side that I can say is a slightly fan noise inside the control box. Adding a better cooling fan could easy. Make this printer very quiet and I might do that in a future, but even so, it’s not too bad and I have to mention the price. Full-size here. 10 is just 60 US dollars more expensive than a CR 10 mini. And if you don’t have a lack of space in your home, then the full-size here 10 is a better choice. Alright, guys! That was my review of the creel. It is here, 10 mini. If you liked this video, give it a thumbs up and subscribe. And if some of you guys wanna order this 3d printer, Please have a look in the links in the video description until next time. Take care and happy printing by, right.