Cr-10 Extruder Upgrade | Micro Swiss Dual Gear Direct Drive Upgrade For Ender 3 And Cr-10 3d Printers


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Micro Swiss Dual Gear Direct Drive Upgrade For Ender 3 And Cr-10 3d Printers


Hey, what’s going on, guys? Daniel, from Oddbody here. And today I am super excited to bring you guys an install guide for micro switches, new direct drive extruder. This just came out and it is an awesome upgrade to your ender or CR 10 based machine. So that further ado, let’s get into it, so I’m a huge fan of micro switches. All metal drop-in hot end for the Crowley machines. I’ve been using mine in my under 3 for quite a long time now for a wide range of materials, including some pretty nasty abrasive materials and it has done an awesome job. I’ve recommended it to friends and they loved theirs. So when I saw that my Christmas was releasing a new product, That was a full kit that converted your reality. CR 10 SCR, 10 S 4 S 5 under 2 + or 3 Tebow tornado or any clone variation of those into a all-metal dual gear direct drive. Drop-in for your machine. That had me super excited. I had to get my hands on it. And currently there’s just a PDF available, so leave. All this video is to record the whole process of me installing this. So that way if you guys are going through the PDF and you get stuck, hopefully something in my guide will act as an external and kind of make that clear and also just to give you a little bit more a look at this product and see if this is something that you might want to consider. Hopefully this will make it were. Printing abrasives is even easier and I’m able to print with a wider range of materials, including flexibles. And, yeah, just this should be an awesome upgrade to really any machine. So first thing you want to do is obviously make sure that all the parts are in the bag so first thing. I’m doing here is going through everything. There’s nothing worse than starting on a upgrader install to find out There’s some screws missing or a bag didn’t make in the box altogether. Microspace has been really great and everything does come a nice, neat little Baggies, but certainly before getting started. I highly recommend you’ve got everything that is needed. Overall install should be somewhere around 30 minutes, two tops an hour, depending on how comfortable you are with the machine in all reality. I think I could install it in about 20 minutes or so, but this took me an hour since I was trying to record and get lots of different shots for you. Guys of the installed, so without further ado, let’s go ahead an get into it. I’m installing it in this. It will be in going into my under three eventually, but my under three is already upgraded, so I didn’t want to show that it wouldn’t make sense so this will be. This is a stock like, essentially see our ten clone that. I’ll be installing it to you and yours should be very similar to this. So the first thing we’re getting to do is gain access to the existing hot end, but to do that, we’re going to need to remove the two screws that hold that cage That has the hot end cooling fan and layer cooling fans for Crowley machines. This should be a two millimeter Allen wrench. It’s going to be required to remove those two screws. Once you do that, you can let the cage hang to the side and we’re gonna remove the hot end next from my machine. It was two! Phillips screws for yours. It’s likely gonna be a two and a half millimeter allen. Screw, so remove those. Make sure you hold onto these screws. Hold onto all the parts a lot of these. You will actually be reusing when you reinstall, but these two, you certainly are gonna be reusing to mount the new hot end into place next. We need to get the thermistor and the heater cartridge out of the existing heater block. These are gonna plug directly into the new micro. Swiss all-metal hotend for mine. I actually had to heat up the hot end to be able to slide them out. So if for some reason, you can’t undo your grub screw, because it’s covered in plastic or your thermistor, your heater cartridge is also just caked on with, you know, molten dried-up plastic from your printing. You’re gonna have to heat up the hot end. If you do so make sure you’ve got gloves on and use the right tools at the heater cartridge. You can get incredibly hot and you do not want a nasty burn. The last thing we need from the old set up is the PTFE or Bowden Tube, so go ahead and remove that. We’re gonna need that to act as a filament guide. Once we install the new direct drive hot in now, we’re going to turn our attention to the extruder. You’re going to need to unplug the cable That’s going to the Extruder Stepper Motor and we’re gonna remove the existing extruder completely. There should be three screws that are holding this into place. One is going to be on the extruder tensioner arm and the other two are gonna be just on the base of the extruder and that’s just helping to solidify it and mounted to the motor and the back bracket. This is also gonna be a two and a half millimeter. Allen Allen Wrench required once that’s done. You’re gonna remove the Extruder gear That’s currently mounted on your stepper motor. It’s gonna be a one and a half millimeter allen wrench. Go ahead and take off that extruder gear. We’re not going to be using that. We’re gonna upgrade this to a much nicer one that micro. Swiss is included, but you will need that Nema 17 so hold on to that next step is to loosen the X carriages or the X Gantry’s belt. So on the far right if you loosen those two screws that will allow your X carriage tensioner to release some tension that way you can play around with the X carriage. First thing you need to do is remove the bottom view slot wheel. I use some needle nose pliers to grip the nylon locknut and then use an Allen key to remove the screw. Make sure you hold on to all the V slot wheels and the eccentric nut that comes on the X carriage. Go ahead and remove the belts. Those will just slide right off and repeat what you did on the first step there and remove the existing two V slot wheels again. Keep the V slot wheels and the screws and the nylon lock nuts. [MUSIC] Now that we’ve got that it’s time to install these onto the new X carriage, so we’re going to take the 2 5 millimeter nylon patch screws. They’re pretty easy to identify. They’ve got a pretty obvious marking on them, so you’re gonna push those through to the V slot wheels and just tighten those as much as you can onto the new aluminum X carriage. You want to make sure they’re still free spinning? But I was able to clamp them down pretty hard and still have those wheels spinning without any issues. Next you’re gonna get the other 5 millimeter screw. That’s a little bit longer. You’re gonna slide that through the final V slot wheel. This is where you’re gonna need that eccentric nut That came with the original. X carriage. So you put that on. There’s only one way that it’ll work on, so make sure that you follow the video here, so that way the little nub is sticking out word and we’re gonna insert that into the final slot on the bottom of the aluminum, then take that light the nylon lock nut and go ahead and tighten that wheel, make sure that it’s completely tightened that there is no wiggle or wobbling around. Once you’ve got that we will go ahead and put the aluminum. X carriage back on to the aluminum profile. Make sure that it’s sliding back and forth nicely and then we’re gonna go ahead and reattach those belts. Those will again as easy as they slid off. Just slide them back onto the new X carriage. Then we’re gonna reapply the X tensioner on the far right side. Just go ahead and use one hand to push it outward, so it creates tension and then use your other hand with the Allen Key to tighten those T nuts in place. So that way it’s nice and solid. Once we’ve got that back on there, you’re gonna go ahead and grab your stepper motor, and you’re gonna go ahead and mount that using the m3 screws that come with the kit, make sure you have the plug, Facing upward as you can see on the Nema 17 motor in the video and we’re going to be installing the top right top left and bottom left. Then you’re gonna grab the lever, the aluminum lever and the precision shoulder screw and push that into the lever while using a 2 millimeter Allen wrench to secure that to the X carriage as you can see here, it should be nice and tight and the gear should fit right into the empty slot next. We’re gonna grab the other gear and this is actually going to be placed on that. Nema, 17 motor. You want to make sure that the grub screw is facing inward towards where the Stepper motors at and there’s a really easy way to get your two gears aligned. You take a piece of 175 millimeter PLA and just shove that through the top hole down past inside where the gears are and then that way you can just clamp the gears together and wiggle it back and forth until it’s completely lined up, then using one hand to hold the tension between the two gears. Use your other hand to tighten those little grub screws on the the gear That’s on the stepper motor. Now that you’ve got that on, we’re gonna get the leverage us. Ting knob and remove the threaded side. I’m gonna shove that through the center and through the tensioner arm of the extruder and then just tighten that micro Swiss recommends that you should have the screw pretty much flush with the outside of it as you can see here. At least as a starting point, you can obviously play around with that down the line, but that’s a recommended starting point after that. Grab the heater, block the heat break and your nozzle We’re just gonna use our hands to hand tighten the heat break into place once you’ve gotten a hand tight, grab be included wrench and give it a nice little extra tug to secure that same thing goes for the nozzle initially start off by just hand tightening it. Then take your wrench and give it just a little extra tug. Once you’ve got that then you can grab the heatsink and by laying it on a flat surface, You’re gonna insert the heat break into the heatsink and grab the tiny little grub. Screw that’s included and tighten that as tight as you can. Really, That’s the one thing holding those two pieces together. So wanna make sure you secure those and I put a little extra tug on there again. Just to make sure that there’s no slop at all. Once you’ve got that. Grab the little bit of capricorn tubing! One of the sides is flat. One of the sides has like a chamfered top piece. You want the piece that’s flat to be shoved into the heatsink. Then you can go ahead and take the chamfered portion and insert that into the X carriage. You’re gonna push it up through the aluminum profile, and it’s gonna sit right below those two, the two gears for the extruder at this point. You’re going to take the two screws that you used to the two screws. That initially were holding the stock hot end in and reuse those to secure this hot end to the X carriage. Once you’ve got that installed it’s time to install the heater cartridge as well as that there, mister, back into the new heater block. You’re just gonna install it the exact same way that you remove the existing one. Once you’ve got them in their slots. You’re gonna tighten the two. Allen screws on the bottom of the heater block That will basically clamp down on the heater cartridge and make sure it’s secure and make sure the heat is transferring. Well, in that, It’s not gonna be sliding out anywhere for the thermistor. It was really tough to get on camera, but there’s one screw and you’re gonna use that to basically make sure that the thermistor isn’t able to slide out of its little hole that slotted into once those are installed. It’s time to turn on your printer and preheat it. You want to heat it up -? I needed mine up to 220 I’d say that’s probably a good a good point. Heat it up to you. So then you’re gonna wanna use a wrench to hold the heater block in place and use the tiny little included wrench to turn the nozzle to make sure it’s fully seated. You’re also gonna want to go ahead and the grub screw that we tighten that holds the heat brake and the heat sink together. Give that another turn in case during heat up, it loosened it all or shift it around a bit. Go ahead and grab the little red. Ptfe clip and slide that in under the black Bowden fitting, you can also go ahead and now at this point. Add the silicone sock to the heater block. Make sure you’ve let your hot and cool down, though. Before touching that once you’ve gotten that you can go ahead and install the cage back on the X carriage. Using the same two screws that you initially had removed, then we’re gonna take the 3d printed part and this is going to be used as the filament guide, so we’re take that as well as the two m3 screws and nuts and secure that to the aluminum profile on the back of your printer. Be careful not to break the printed part. It’s pretty really strong. I believe it’s ptg, but still make sure you don’t clamp it down too too hard once done. Take the Bowden Tube that came with your printer initially push that into place and then insert the red clip as well so that way this isn’t able to slide out, take the other end and just slot that into the top of the new direct drive extruder. Lastly, you’re gonna take the tiny little metal clip. It’s the guide tube clip that came with the micro. Swiss kit and just push that into the tiny little gap there and all that’s gonna do is make sure that also on the other end when there’s retractions or things like that, the filament isn’t pushing the PTFE tube out there’s. Only one final thing to do, and that is to plug in your extruder’s. Extruder Stepper Motor is power. It does come with an extension cable, so you’re gonna plug in the extension cable into the top of the Nema 17 Extruder motor and then take the other end of it, which is gonna the female end and plug that into the existing extruder cable that originally was being used. Once you’ve got that you are good to go. The only thing is, you’re gonna need to calibrate the extruder. I’ll place a link in the description to video as well as an article where it shows you how to do that, my? Christmas does recommend 130 steps per millimeter as a good starting point. But again you’re gonna want to tune that to make sure that your or attraction and your extrusions are accurate, and you know, that’s there’s no issues with that. So anyways, guys. This has been the direct drive system for the CR 10 and Endor printers. I hope you guys enjoyed this. I’m actually gonna be ripping this out and putting it in my ender 3 I only installed it in this machine for you guys. So that way you guys would have a visual of what is required. I wanted in my Ender 3 but again since my under 3 snows, not stock, it just didn’t make sense for me to show you guys me installing it into a machine. That’s already pretty modified. So if you have any questions, let me know the comments down below. I hope you guys are super stoked for this product, and I know I am. I really can’t. Wait to get some printing under my belt with this new hot end and extruder combo. And yeah, on that note, don’t forget to Like and subscribe for more great videos and I look forward to seeing you guys all in my next video.

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