Cnc Router Wood Projects Ideas | How To Build A Printnc – 3d Printed Open Source Cnc Machine | Build Ep. 1

Arya Nakh

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How To Build A Printnc - 3d Printed Open Source Cnc Machine | Build Ep. 1


What is up, guys? Cyber knock here. I wanted to do a new series of me. Building a new machine, which is a CNC machine. So this whole machine. If you guys are familiar, um, with something like the shaycoco, which is a more popular one. Um, is essentially to make this spindle spin a bit and you can cut things. This is not the Shea Poco. Obviously as you can tell. I thought it was a little bit too much out of the box and we’re going to details of why this machine thing is a lot better than the other mark on the market, but the best part about it is that it’s do it yourself. Um, and people always say that. Oh, it’s 3d print. It’s not going to be accurate. Uh, wait till I show you what this can cut with when we get there. But so this is the spindle that it will be basically spinning. Um, it is a 2.2 Kilowatt liquid cooled spindle. Um, it’s a monster, and we’re gonna be running it. Um, so it’s gonna be pretty exciting to build this machine. I wanted to give you a preview. What it’s gonna look like when we go back to the beginning because this started out with a pile of steel and parts from China. So even though I’m going to be showing you a series of what I did and how I built this thing and all the little tips and tricks I have for you. I cannot stress enough. You 100 to join the discord community and ask all your questions there. The people that are in there who know way more than me are unbelievably helpful. They are so patient with me. Uh, I had no clue what I was doing and a couple. People in particular really really helped me out. Um, Hodges, obviously who made this machine helped out a bunch, Uh, and a guy in the discord name, Logan? I have a theory that Logan doesn’t sleep ever because he would answer my questions any hour of the day. When I asked questions, there’d be times in three in the morning when I was asked. You know why a part isn’t fitting with properly and you have the answer. I look for a lot of machines that I could use as my hobby CNC. Um, I almost got the Shea Poco. Um, but after kind of asking Reddit and asking all the disco communities I settled against it, youll. Learn that while it’s a pretty capable machine, it uses aluminum extrusions and uses a belt system kind of like a 3d printer, which really isn’t that good if you want to cut a lot of metals and harder materials. So I really opted for an upgrade to that one. Uh, would maybe be like something like the mega or something like that? Um, but for this project? I really wanted to do it. Do it myself! I feel like I learned a lot more about the machine that way, So if you are a type of do-it-yourself person and you want to build a CNC machine, this is one thousand place percent the way to go so with that said, let’s go back in time to the very beginning and see how we got to this point today. All right, let’s do it. So the first step is obviously to get your steel tubing. Uh, here in America, where I am, It’s easiest to find two by three steel tubing. Usually this is three millimeters thick. Um, I don’t know what gauge it is, but I think it’s around 11 gauge. So what you can do is you can either try to source it locally or you can source it from, you know, pretty big industrial supplier. I use the metal supermarket. Um, it was really good place to find a local supplier. Um, and I was able to get all my steel. Uh, pre-cut to the size. I need it to be for mine. It was pretty perfectly cut to size and they would have the tolerances. When you go online to buy it online, and you tell them the dimensions you cut, It’s pretty important to make sure that you change the tolerances from being plus or minus to being plus, for example. If they offer, you know, plus or minus 0.05 you want to say I Rather It be zero and plus 10 essentially, so take the delta and put it in the positive direction. That’s because you want it to be longer not shorter, that’s. The one thing I learned once you’re happy with the test fit. The next decision you have to make is whether you want to drill and tap your holes first or you want to paint first. I chose the paint first looking back since I chose White. I probably should have done the drilling and tapping first, but it doesn’t didn’t turn out too badly as you could tell. You can’t really see the scuff marks on camera. When you go to do your painting. The first thing you want to do is a lot of the steel has a lot of grease on it. You want to descale it? I know or sometimes people call it pickling your steel. I know a lot of people on the forums have used different materials and different chemicals. I just chose to buy a descaling agent from my local metal shop. I don’t know what the chemical is inside of it. I’ll look on the back. Maybe later if someone’s curious, but it just it’s just called industrial descaler. You should probably wear a mask and don’t let this get on your hands as you can tell. I didn’t wear gloves, which was probably a bad idea, but I essentially rubbed down my entire steel frame. Uh, and all my steel tubing. Uh, let it, you know, dry and then kind of scrubbed it off a little bit, and it was totally fine. If you’re using this on metals that aren’t steel, it recommends you use some water to wash it off, but obviously with steel, you’re going to want to not do that when you pick your paints. Whatever color you pick. I chose to do rust-oleum and I did a primer and then a paint on top. Uh, both spray paint. This also helps protect your steel from any rust. That would happen after letting the paint dry. It’s time to do another test fit. I also took this time to print out all the parts I would need and add those to my test fit just to visualize everything, and I used some masking tape to start marking which beams were which side and which was facing where I highly recommend this. It’s really helpful for framing what you’re doing when you’re doing it and making sure you don’t mess up and Miss Drill a hole or misalign something all the parts I printed were in PLA, except for the motor mounts and anything that had to do with motor mounts like on the z-axi’s, those were all done in Petg because they needed to be a little stronger and more rigid. Everything else I printed in PLA. I had this really really cool color that I got from paramount. Filament and this is not sponsored at all, But I picked their Mclaren orange for all the parts on the machine, and it really really is an incredible plastic. It prints super easily doesn’t string very much. It just prints so flawlessly. I I absolutely love it’s. One of my new favorite filaments. I also was able to match the color with their petg. There’s a slight color difference like, but so slight, you can’t even tell. I don’t even think you can tell on the camera at all. Um, if you’re really up close, and you’re shining a light at it, you can kind of tell. The petg parts are a little bit. Uh, I guess you could call it less opaque, but it’s the exact same color. It looks like to me as you can see. I’m using the keyhole plates for the end caps of the rollers. Those were designed by Logan in the discord originally I. There are a couple designs. I originally had this design that you see installed here. Those are not the correct ones. There was an error on them. They actually ride too close to the ball screw. So I reprinted those in later videos and used those so they actually had proper spacing. The plan is to upgrade these to aluminum Once the machine is up and running, But for now I’m going to just leave it as is with everything printed. I grabbed the first guide and started to punch all the holes. I needed so I used center punches. I believe the new recommendation is to get a set of transfer punches because it’s easier to find the exact center so I would use a transfer punch. If I had to go do it again and to you print, make sure you printed the guides exactly to the size of your steel. So you’re not off center or anything? This is my first time ever punching any holes. So please go easy on me. I got a lot better as I went on and this resulted in me needing to oversize a couple holes. But, as Hodges says in the discord, he doesn’t think there’s any built to date that is built without oversizing some holes. [MUSIC] After punching all the holes, it was time to start the drilling process. I decided to use a hand drill to start this, and I learned quickly. This was unbelievably tedious And I was not good at it at all. It also resulted in a couple holes being misaligned Because I sucked at doing it in complaining about how difficult it was to drill. These holes, my co-worker. Andrew actually mentioned that he had a drill. Press and let me borrow it and this made the process unbelievably easy and painless, and it made me realize. I need to buy a drill press. So thank you so much for saving the day, Andrew. So this was also my first time trying to drill through metal. Um, and a couple takeaways. I think is pretty universal, regardless of whether you use a drill press or use the hand drill. You can’t have too much tapping fluid is what I learned. Just putting on tapping fluid is really a great way to make sure that you maintain the the longevity of your drill bit and also making sure that the work piece has a nice smooth. Uh, hole through it. Um, I also learned that picking the exact size of drill bit that you need for the hole is not the correct way to go. You a want to use pilot holes, so I pick three millimeter drill bits, and you want to undersize the holes slightly. So when you tap them, they turn out great and they they’re not oversized, so because you want something for the threading to grab onto So these were the takeaways that I had and as I went through the process. It was really a lot of fun and I’m glad I I. Uh, did it with a drill. Press after all, the holes are drilled. The next part is by far my favorite, which was tapping all those holes. So I opted for a hand tap and not a drill Bit Tap combo. I really had a lot of fun, tapping all the holes and putting the threading in there by hand. It was a lot of fun. I printed these little tiny jigs. I guess you could call them to make sure that my taps were going in perpendicular to the work piece, which worked out fantastically the key for the tapping, which I learned from from Adam Savage’s videos on Youtube. Big shout out to him. Is that you should do a quarter. Turn back for every full, turn forward or half turn forward, depending on how hard the material is. This worked out fantastic, and I pray and happy that I didn’t break any of the bits on the way to completing this build, which was really lucky. I know a lot of people had broken taps and broken bits on this journey. So I’m glad I didn’t have to have to experience that. [MUSIC] Now, with the bottom of the y-beam done, it’s time to go to the top side on the top of the y-beam. You obviously have the two bkbf blocks sandwiching the linear rail and the motor. Mount on one side. I started on the opposite side of the motor. Mount because I think it made the most sense, and I think that’s what the guide suggests as well. So once you have one of the blocks on there. The trick I learned in discord is to use a drill Bit The size of the hole. I think it’s six millimeters or six and a half millimeter hole, Uh, and use that to mark the center of the, uh, block on the beam. And then once you have that, I followed it up with a, uh, center punch and then drilled it tapped it and put the block on there, which fit perfectly and aligned perfectly. And then after that, I put the rail on the linear rail, the trick. Also the linear rail is to make sure that you put it on straight using this little nifty guide. I think this should be linked in the main assembly. And once you have it neatly on the frame, what you want to do? Is you want to tap and drill and actually screw on the linear rail using the outer two most holes on each side that way it’s aligned perfectly, and you don’t have the if the center one is off, you don’t screw it on first, and it’ll kind of tear the linear rail out of alignment or not, even go on properly, so it’s just easiest to put the two outer ones first. Screw it down lightly or you know fully and then tap the other holes, take it off. Drill them and put them all on that way. I think I’m gonna end the video here. Uh, putting these y beams together and doing them correctly was a huge accomplishment for me. I never used a lot of the tools I worked with and the guide and people in discord made it so easy to get started with with. So I really don’t want anyone to be afraid to start this. I’m really glad I learned how to do a lot of the stuff and use all these new tools. I’m excited to put them in my future workflows and to kind of experiment and get to play with them a lot more. I do need to return the drill press to my friend. Andrew, I’ve kind of had it for him for a long time, so I definitely need to buy and invest in a drill press for myself. I wanted to thank everybody for for watching, and for coming on this journey with me, I’m really excited for this process and for this build, especially and it’s going to allow me to do so many new things which I’m so excited about. I got a lot of future projects planned using this CNC machine. So I’m really excited for it if you watched and saw me doing something a certain way that was incorrect or had a question. Please ask, and if you know I did something wrong. Please, please let me know or even if you just have a better way to do something. These are, you know, as much for me to learn as as for people that watch to learn. So please don’t keep any tips and tricks to yourself. These are obviously new videos for me, so if you want me to slow down even further and go into greater detail, Please let me know, or if this is a good pace. Uh, you know, thumbs up and let me know it’s going well. Um, I think a lot of channels use, like super upbeat edm music and stuff like that. And, you know, get it all exciting. I kind of want to go for more of a chiller vibe on my channel. I think the world’s going so fast, so I want to give people a chance to kind of slow down, kick off their shoes and relax. So I kind of started to opt for this. I guess Lo-fi you know, almost asmr type. Chill vibe going here, Which I think I’m going to keep, and I also wanted to say thank you so much for everyone’s support, and I’ll see you guys next time.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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