Transcript:
Hey, everyone, new mesh. Patel, aka psycho Bob here again. And this is part 2 the claptrap model built for Gamespot UK before I get into the video. I wanted to try and answer a few quick questions. I’ve seen on the Gamespot website their Youtube channel and also some private messages that have been sent to me. The most common of them was what’s. The final model look like. Can you show us some pictures well? There hasn’t actually been any shots of this. Yeah, as it wasn’t ready at the time, the first video was uploaded. These videos are being created and uploaded long side, the actual model build. So the footage you’re watching is actually where the model build is, rest assured, though by the end of this video, you should see the finished article. The next question was. How big is the model gonna be? Well from the edges of the longest pieces, their model be roughly 19 centimeters, tall, 8 centimeters, deep and 15 centimeters wide once it’s been fully assembled into its pose. There’ll also be a USB cable coming out the back to power the Leds, which will be roughly one meter long. Hopefully that’s answered some of the questions you may have had with, that said. Let’s go on with the main power of the video. In the last video, it ended where I had uploaded the model to shapeways and now just place the order. So this is where you play the waiting game and wait for the parts to be printed and shipped to you. Normally, this is done within 10 working days, however, as luck would have it, shape weights had some printer issues at the time. I place the order so things took a bit longer than normal Shapeways customer services. How are very good? And they minimize all the delays as much as they could for me, so I was very, very grateful for this. The day had finally come when the show boy’s boxes had turned up and I could finally take a look at all the printed parts. Everything was accounted for, but to my surprise, there were two parts that weren’t printed exactly how. I expected the hub cap and the wheel spoke pieces. Were supposed to be printed as one part, but when it arrived and I had to look at them, they actually had to been printed into two separate pieces. This was something that needed to be corrected as early on as possible, or I would be facing difficulty later on, so I prepared the surfaces, and then I used some extra strong glue that melts the plastic and fuses them together for a very strong bond. I also checked over the other pieces and they didn’t seem to be any other issues, so this meant I could get on with the cleaning and smoothing stages when the white, strong and flexible parts are printed, it’s made from a nylon powder that’s melted with some lasers in the printer, the melted powder then fuses together to form printed plastic parts because of this process, the final surface has a sandy texture to it, which I then need to smooth out, but there’s also unmelted. Powder residue stuck to the model at the same time. Shapeways cleans off the majority of this, but they don’t always get everything. So I always clean the parts myself once I received them. This is so I don’t run into issues. Later on when the paint tries to adhere to the surface at the par when the frost and detail parts are printed, they are printed slightly differently from the nylon pieces. These are printed as extrude material and they use a wax like substance as temporary support again, share base tries to clean off the wax support material before shipping to you, but I always find. There’s a fair amount of wax support material stuck on the part when it arrives, this definitely needs clean off as nothing sticks very well to this and even if it does manage to stick. The final paint job can be damaged very, very easily. If you leave it on a picture, on-screen should show the wax material stuck between the blades of one of the vent pieces, which I had to clean out very carefully As the pieces were very thin And also the frosted detail material isn’t as strong as a nylon material so clean, stay was done. It was time to start sanding the pieces to smooth them out. This is by far the most tedious part of the process, but it’s well worth the effort when you see the final results, I start with priming the surfaces and then using a coarse grit sand paper before Reap rhyming the piece and then moving to finer grit levels, this is repeated about three or five times, moving to finer and finer grit sandpaper, depending on the roughness of the piece now. I’m afraid I don’t actually have a lot of video footage for the painting section available as one of the SD cards, I was capturing footage on corrupted beyond recovery on me. I do have some pictures available. However, so hopefully, that will suffice for this section the process. I followed for this was to first start by painting on a rust layer claptrap. Be no were on Pandora for long periods of time and having bandits taking potshots at him. All the time meant that he’s not exactly going to be the most pristine of conditions, So I used a dark brown mix as a base. Then I used lighter shades of Browns and oranges to make a very basic rust coat. I didn’t spend a lot of time when this house is mostly going to be covered up. I was worth doing these subtle shades of Browns and oranges in case they actually showed through on the next section. I use an airbrush for a lot of the paintwork as it allowed me to get a good even coat and also apply some very subtle, weathering that you can only really achieve with an airbrush once a Rustler was finished, I then proceeded to go over this layer of a yellow paint job and whether it’s so you could see the rust layer below it in the form of some chipped paint most chips I created revealed the rust layer by planned it, so some of the chips revealed some silver metallic paint this was to represent fresh damage. It was then finished off with a subtle dirt layer that went over the top of everything to show that the base of the body was dirtier than top for the parts that needed to be weathered, but was supposed to be chrome. I used a dry brushing. Technique normally used very little paint on the brush when you do this, but I chose to make this a bit brighter by loading more than normal onto the brush as I didn’t really want a very dark, weathered look for these pieces, The most obvious places where I use This technique was actually on the wheel spokes in the various parts of the arms, where the paint work completed. It was time to add some decals to add some extra detail that are near impossible to paint for the most part. I didn’t actually need that many decals for this model. I had already manually painted on the thin red and white stripes that ran out at the top of the model and also the white stripe that runs around the chest area, the only details. I needed to add was the danger. Labels near the shoulder panels, the bolts on each of the chrome patch panels that run around the body in general, the red warning label and finally the audio synthesizer. I made some custom decals in Photoshop and then printed them on to some decal paper, which I then transferred to the model. I’m afraid like the paint section. A lot of the circuit footage was lost on the corrupted. SD card. The circuit I created was kept relatively basic. I created a simple parallel LED circuit that was to be powered by the USB cable. I could have built a serial LED circuit where the components are chained one after the other, which is much more simple and also a lot less expensive. But I always opted making parallel circuits if I can help him. Parallel circuits are much more redundant so that if one LED or component fails, the others in the chain will continue to function in a serial circuit if wanting an LED or component stops working any component after that in the chain stops working. Right, so I think I’ve been prattling on now for far too long if you made it this far without forwarding, you have my thanks before. I shut up and let you enjoy some footage of the finished piece. I just wanted off my congratulations in advance to the person who wins this. I put a lot of time and effort into this, so I really hope you enjoy the model. So for the last time, there’s a psycho Bob. And without further ado, here’s a completed model.