Best Temp To Print Pla | How To Find The Perfect Temperature For Your 3d Prints!

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How To Find The Perfect Temperature For Your 3d Prints!


[music] hi, folks! Today we’re going to talk about optimizing print settings when using new filaments or even setting up your printer for the first time and the way that you do that is by printing objects at different temperatures and figuring out what settings work best for you, and it turns out there’s actually a really good way to test both how well, it prints and what the various material properties might be at those varying temperatures. And that’s called a heat Tower, and so I have one of those here, and this basically changes temperature by five degrees Celsius, every 25 layers, and my friend, Rocco actually pointed me on to this after having kind of just found out himself and I figured I’d pass this on to everybody else because I’m learning a lot from this. So it starts with the hottest temperature on the bottom and then go cools down as it climbs and you get down to, you know, the nozzle potentially clogging and and that’s where user intervention was required as I understand it. So that’s why you go down in temperature as you go up in layers and just from this PLA one here, and by the way I printed this, I always start my print settings off at 70 degrees Celsius on the bed temp, and then every layer it cools down by two degrees Celsius until it’s sixty degrees Celsius, and I don’t use tape or glue or anything. I just print directly onto the Mir glass, which is a hand wash with like Dawn dish, soap and water, and so as you can see here on this little bridge when you have the hotter temperatures, you have that that waviness and the sagging of stringing this going on, and then clearly, there is a point where things sort of become optimized. Now, what’s really interesting and what? I’ve learned about this is and I would like to print one with some colder temperatures just to see, but at least compared to the the finish. It kind of gets better when you get like, 195 190 here. There’s actually a shade difference that’s visible and I don’t know if that shows up on camera between these and these, and of course, because it’s being extruded at that cooler temperature. The bridging the gap works out pretty well, but that may not be the optimum setting. When you’re printing something that has like this triangle edge because one thing I learned is that when you have that cooler Imperial temperature, it cracks and the edges break off easy, so I can break off a couple of strings from these edges at the 195 and 190 But when you get at like the 205 range, the adhesion is much better between each each layer or each time. The extruder extruder comes around to make the next two outside edge and because even though they’re thin, they’re well adhered. They definitely withstand me, you know, pinching my finger onto it and trying to push it over, whereas I was pretty. It was definitely easier to mull over the edges on these top layers, so that’s with PLA, and now I’ve just finished this flexible material and this is the elastic stuff that’s from GP 3d and this is the very first time I’ve printed with this, and so I did the same, The same settings that I always do, and I don’t know how well it’s gonna come off the mirror here. Sometimes you can pry things up, but it actually shock typically was the way to go, but since this is elastic that that’s not working for me. So there’s that one and then. I got to do this like with the phone in the other hand. There we go, you got it. Oop, if you have the CR 10 I’m going to put a file for this test in the description, and I’ll also link to the object on Thingiverse so you can get your own and play with your with play with your print settings, but I’ll just grab the file off the SD card that I put in the machine and make that immediately available as well and that’s got the you know the PLA settings and in steps the temperature down, so if you don’t have software like simplify 3d you can still use that file. At least on the CR 10 I have a Cr 10s to be able to to try that out and this is the stock firmware and everything by the way so that should work just fine on other CR 10 machines, and I’d be curious to know if there’s a wide variance in these and what temperatures work for other people I learned on this one that you, you can have a slightly higher temperature and get better consistency on walls and things and on these on these prints here, but you can lower the temperature to better bridge gaps and print them consistently and the same is sort of true on here. Although suffice it to say 2:05 the 205 range seems to perform pretty optimally so. I think I’m actually gonna bump my temperature down. I typically printed it to 10 on PLA, so I think I’m going to go down to to 205 and that’s gonna be a pretty good balance between structural integrity on corners and being able to to bridge gaps. Typically, I don’t at least for now, have these larger distances, but now I’m well aware that if I do, I can go down to 200 or maybe even 195 and at the sacrifice of a little bit of structural integrity in the corners, I can hit those those larger distances so anyway. I hope you enjoyed this. Quick tip. The machine’s running great. I’m going to get some bracing here at the top and kind of come back and down, because if I can keep this from moving and bouncing around, I’m pretty sure I can do a lot. Higher accuracy on high-speed prints just bolting. This thing to this filing cabinet made a significant difference in that regard. And I think I’d like to try and get just a little more out of it. I’m curious how much of a difference that makes so look for that in a future video and more creations and stuff to come, so stay tuned. Please remember to rate comment and subscribe. And if you know somebody that has a 3d printer. Show them this, please. Because this this really makes a difference in regards to the quality of prints and optimising things. So until next time, have a good one.

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