Best Print Speed For Pla | Faster 3d Prints With Simple Modifications And Cura Settings


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Faster 3d Prints With Simple Modifications And Cura Settings


I deserve schipper of the dr. vex Channel and today we’re going to learn how to turbocharge your printer how to make it run much much faster I printed this beautiful calibration cap this is a 2x I’ll show you a picture in a minute in much more detail at three times normal speed and it’s a beautiful print so stay tuned and let’s learn something together the keys to printing very very fast is you need to ensure that number one your printer frame is very stable because the faster you go to print the more vibration you may cause and the more vibration the more likely you are to get ghosting and other error effects on your print there’s no ghosting at all on this print the only artifact at all is I probably should have had one more perimeter because I can see the infill a little bit this print is extremely clean let’s look up at a larger picture of this you’ll see in the top edges are very very sharp the overhang is beautiful there’s a little tiny bit of stringing but not too much the negative spaces are clean this is a beautiful print this was printed on an under-five at a hundred millimeters per second as the base print speed so let’s look at how I did that well the first thing you’ll see here is that there is a dramatic difference in print speed based on overall slicer settings so we go from 239 minutes down to 65 minutes to print the same print the first set of changes are pretty obvious we change the layer height the amount of fill then we increase the speed then we turn off acceleration and jerk and let’s go through these in a bit more detail but before we do let’s look what I did physically to printer to label higher sprint speeds you’ll see here a picture of a Prusa i3 mk3 on the left end of the Ender five on the right now let’s watch a short video together you’ll notice on the Ender 5 the printbed does not move back and forth it only moves up and down that keeps the overall print much more stable because you have many less Z movements or at least large Z movements then you have X&Y movements and in particular if you have Z hop off you have very few if any Z movements when you’re printing a particular level on the other hand if you look at the proofs I 3 MK 3 that print bed is moving back and forth continually now the Prusa prints very very fast because over all the components are excellent at the $750 printer and the Ender 5 is a $350 printer now I did make some modifications to the Ender 5 the first modification here you can see on this picture is I replace the couplers and the Bowden tube with a Capricorn tube which is much more precise also allows printing at higher temperatures and much better couplers you also see I have an EZ ABL bed leveling kit now you can level the bed of a printer manually and get it perfect this just makes it a little easier the more level the bed of the print the more likely that your print will stick very well to that bed you’ll get less movement while you’re printing and if you’re printing very fast that’s important next you’ll see I have a CV CNC easier screw der extruder and my opinion this is the most significant change to allow me to print on my under 5 consistently and a hundred millimeters per second and the reason is when you’re printing faster you need push more filament more quickly the standard extruder from Cree ality is is quite good but it’s not in the same class as let’s say a direct extruder used on the Prusa the seamy CNC ez are straighter is a relatively easy upgrade there’s a video on this channel and it allows you to push filament much more reliably from your extruder to your hot end finally and this might look insignificant but I don’t believe it is this is a little part I got off Thingiverse I’ll include a link down below that I printed that holds the Z screw more stable that means there’s even less movement of that print that a side effect is by holding that Z screw more stable when you turn off the power of your printer on the Ender 5 the print bed has a habit of falling this tends to keep that from happening and finally and this might not be obvious when you print faster you need higher temperatures why you’re pushing more filament you’re going from one point of the print to the other you need to ensure that plastic stays at temperature one way to do that is to start a little bit hotter I’m printing madder hackers build series PLA and of printing it at 210 degrees Celsius now let’s go through and compare some slicer settings in this particular configuration I’m on the normal profile the default normal profile from kira it’s a point one five millimeter layer height 20% fill this basic speed is 60 millimeters per second and you can see here that this print would take three hours and 59 minutes by changing to a point two millimeter layer height and only 10% infill but leaving the speed spritz the same I drop this to two hours and twelve minutes and if you look back at this print it still looks really quite good really very beautiful part of it is the hacker build series PLA does a real nice job of hiding layers next I increased my print speed to a hundred millimeters per second and I did that for both the basic print speed and the infill prints fee and then I let cura calculate the rest of the speeds that draft my overall print time to one hour and 49 minutes finally I did something it may not be obvious I turned off acceleration jerk control that tells the slicer that it shouldn’t attempt to slow down the print in order to keep from vibrating the printer let it go as fast as it can go now because the Ender 5 is a box style frame because that bed is not moving back and forth this had little effect on print quality and that dropped my speed all the way down to 1 hour and five minutes now I did make one other change which is a change that I normally make in all my prints and for combing I set it to not in skin so if we go back and we look once again at the graph will see that by making some modifications to the printer to ensure the extruder can extrude filament successfully at higher speeds by increasing the temperature of the print and by making a series of speed changes and then finally by turning off acceleration jerk control I was able to print this you know about a third of the time now what’s the side effect the side effect is depending on your printer you will lose quality but in my particular case these combinations of features allowed me to print a beautiful print in 1/3 of the time okay folks thanks for watching I hope you learned something if you did give me a thumbs up subscribe to the channel share this channel with other people that might be interested in this information thanks so much and have a great day [Music] [Applause]

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

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