Baby Yoda 3d Model | Baby Yoda 3d Printed – Tutorial, Settings, Time Lapse, Showcase

Gabriel's 3D Printing

Subscribe Here





Baby Yoda 3d Printed - Tutorial, Settings, Time Lapse, Showcase


[MUSIC] Hello and welcome to Gabriel’s 3d printing. Today we’re gonna take a look at baby. Yoda uploaded by Marvin Miniature’s first things first as we scroll down and take a look at the designer notes. CV has an e specification. Zoar recommendations. And we do see that he says we shouldn’t use any rafts. We should use supports, and we should have an infill of roughly 20% so once you read all that, we’re gonna download the files by clicking this blue button up here, and once it’s fully downloaded, you should have something similar to this. We’re gonna double Click on files and we see here we have an obj and an. Stl, we’re gonna click and hold on the SEO and drag it into our lie, sir. You once the model has finished loading up, we can now start changing the settings. First step is going to be selecting a layer height. I’m gonna do a layer. Height of zero point two millimeters, which is standard quality. You can go lower. If you want like point, one two or point, one six, which will give you a higher quality, but it will take longer to print so for this case. I’m gonna stay at zero point. Two millimeters infill what’s suggested to be twenty percent so in fill density. We go to the info tab in the fill density. We should change it to twenty mines already set at twenty, so I don’t have to do anything Next is gonna be supports, gentlemen, just say when uses porch, so we’re gonna click on the support tab right here. Enable that now. I have put into this model over a few times before, and I know that supports are very hard to remove, especially in this hand area right here. So what I’m going to do is we’re gonna change the support density from twenty percent down to only ten percent, meaning there should be less material inside of the actual support walls, aka lower density should make it a little easier to remove. We’re also going to change the support. Z distance from zero point, two to zero point two six. Now, if you don’t see any of these settings, what you have to do. Is you’re going to have to put your mouse over the support? Click on this gear icon and then just enable whatever settings we were talking about so we should be in the support tab. Whenever you click on the gear icon, just look down and see where that setting is so support is a distance. Enable that, and you should be able to see it now. Support overhang angle. If you’re a beginner, leave it as it is. But if you’ve done benchmarking on your printer? I know what your printer can handle. You can change that. I know my printer is fine with a 60 degree, the port over hanging angle. So I’ll change that to that now. Gentleman also said there was no rafts needed, which is the build plate adhesion. You can hear to do a rafter brim, skirt, etc. We do not e any of that. So by default, it does use a skirt. Does it recommend a skirt? So we’ll just leave? Stir it on, make sure you don’t have brim or RAF enabled, because you don’t really need it and other than that. You’re set to go why they do now is hit slice and let it process. One slicing has finished. You should be greeted by a time estimate as well as a filament usage estimate. So in our case, this should take roughly eight hours 46 minutes and we’ll use up a total of 60 grams of filament. Now, down here in this corner, we can also see a size estimate. It looks like we’re at seven point six by six point, seven by nine centimeters with the dimensions of the actual print itself, always a preview to see the preview of the model along with supports. Now take a look around the model by holding right clicking, dragging your mouse, and you see there’s. Nothing funky going on. Everything looks pretty good and clean. So once you’re satisfied, all I have to do now is plug in your flash drive and send it over to the printer you here. We see the model straight off the bill plates without any removal of supports or post processing now supports aren’t too difficult to remove with the settings We use but can definitely give a beginner a hassle. Be very careful when removing the supports for the right hand. If you’re not careful, you will easily break all the fingers off here. We see the model with all supports removed. The model looks pretty good as it is right now, but can definitely benefit from some post-processing if you would like to further clean up your model. I’ll recommend using 400 to 1500 grit, sandpaper and cleaning up some of the areas that need attention. Here we see various close-ups of the model after it has been lightly sanded as you can see. The model has no defects and has magnificent quality. If you take a closer look at the back of the model, you should see a vertical line that’s known as the printing seam and that’s where the printer switches layers on the z-direction. Generally, the seam can be hidden on sharp corners, but with a model with this level of curvature, it might be a little harder, so it will stand out, but luckily was placed on the back of the model you.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

read more