Anet A8 Mosfet Wiring Diagram | Installing A Mosfet – Anet A8 3d Printer

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Installing A Mosfet - Anet A8 3d Printer


Today we’re going to be installing this. This is a MOSFET. It helps manage the power for our a net eight 3d printer now before we begin. I’m not an electrician, so I’m going to show you what I’m doing, but if you don’t feel comfortable with this, get some help, it shouldn’t be too bad if you were able to hook up the wires to your machine should be able to do this without a problem, but be safe, okay. I do your own research. There have been plenty of documented cases where the original power supply with the machine is causing problems because it comes straight to the board, and then the board sends the power out to the extruder and hot bed, and there have been quite a few cases where things have melted. You caught fire either. These connections here at the main board or the white connector at the hotbed, so this helps alleviate some of that strain and makes it way safer. I can’t say that it’s 100% safe. Nothing is, but it will help a lot lot. So the idea is from the power supply. You will bring the wires instead of coming in to the board directly. It will come in here first. So you see a smart? DC in clarity does matter. So you have to pay attention to the plus and minus. Then it will leave here too, so you’ll have a wire leaving here and that will then go into the board and again the polarity matters, so pay attention to the plus or minus. You will start a new set of wires here where it says hotbed. The polarity doesn’t matter here, so you know, you can reuse the red and black wires that are already going to the hotbed and plug them in here The I think it’s blue and gray that come from the hotbed. They will still plug in up here on the board. The one with a little white jst connection. Okay, which leaves us with this last spot, which is also a jst connection, but that will connect to this little terminal that says bed. So you need set of wires coming from bed to this one. Polarity does not matter on that one. As far as I could tell either. All right, hold on, say this. This is giving me a headache diagram that I showed you. It says that with the color coding that the polarity does not matter. But then if you scroll down the page a little bit, there’s a few bullet points, and it says polarity does matter which the whole thing is just contradicting itself. Then I went on the forms, and it seems like everyone ordered these at the same time, and this question came up more than once, and I saw some people say polarity does matter and I saw plenty of people that says it does not from what I can tell. It just sends a signal and it does not with the way that I’m showing you. I hooked it up. Spoiler alert. It works fine, but I could have just gotten lucky and got the polarity correct on the first try, but I kind of get it because there’s an LED again. I’m not electrician, but there’s an LED on the bed, and I think that only the the polarity does matter to make that work and it does come on online, So I don’t know, do your own research. Make sure you have it, right, But it works like this and wires don’t have to be real big and easy for this one because it’s just sending a signal now. Um, so, yeah, real quick power in and then power to the board hotbed wires to the hotbed and then from the bed connection on the board to here and you should be okay. I will definitely put a diagram up for you or a link in the description. In case you want to do some more research on your own now, that’s with one power supply. I’m going to do mine a little differently. I want to head out and got this. It was only like 20 bucks at micro. Center, so I’m going to be running two power supplies. I’m going to use the old one for the hot bed. And then the new one is going to power the board and some LED lights. That are in my cabinet that I made, so I made, so that means my setup is going to be a little bit different than a single power supply, so so just like before the old power supply is going to come here, and then the red and black wires are going to go to the bed. That’s the same. The difference here is. I’m not going to have a set of wires coming off of here going to the main board. Okay, I will still need the bed to come to the little white. Jst what will be different is instead of that set of wires coming to the board. I’ll just have my second power supply with some 12 volts power coming and powering up the board itself. So the old power supply will basically just be running the hotbed. So you can do it either way in either way, this will make it safer, even if you have this like, is you only use the old power supply to do everything it will be better as long as you hook everything up correctly, so let’s get to it, so here’s what. I am doing to my connections that go to the screws. I have these little Spade terminals They’re crimped on. Then I put a little bit of solder in there, and then he treat it so you can just use bare wire and crimp it on in there. This is just another another step for a little bit of safety. I think I have the MOSFET all settled there. You can see the four wires are going to their respective places, and then this little jst connection If we follow that up. That is going into this first one here this. I didn’t change at all because that’s the extruder and this one popped up because I’m going to connect that to my PSU next, so this and this -, the hot bed business. – the power supply, making sure that positive is positive and negative is negative. Okay, the next step is to get this power supply working again. You don’t need a second power supply. You could totally do this. With the one that’s provided, just hooking it up a little differently like. I said earlier, but I’m going to use this one. It’s meant for a computer, but of course, we’re not putting it in a computer. So we have to kind of trick it to think that we are to do that. We have to do a little hacking. I guess hardware hacking. You’ll find this main cable with this big giant. I don’t even know what these are called and then you have the whole gangly mess later on. So these are the main wires, and then these are all your 5 Volt 3 volt 12-volt fires. There is one green wire, which I hope is green. I’m color blind and no one’s home to help me, but I think that’s the green one and what I have done. You have to short that with any ground, which is any black wire so before. I actually cut these and twist them together. Maybe solder them together! I just ran a wire in between these two posts, so I found the hole that the green one connects to, and I stuck a wire in there and I found a black wire and I stuck a wire in there and hopefully when I click the switch to turn on the power supply, it will come on. I’ll know because the fan will start going. Some of the older power supplies. I guess if you don’t have a load, so something hooked up to it that uses electricity. If you don’t have that and you do this, it won’t come on, so you have to have something hooked up to it. Whether it’s the LED lights. Or I mean, if you’re talking about a computer, A CD/DVD player or something. So anyway, I got hooked up, lets. Try it, oh! I must’ve found green so it works hands on. It should be all good then. I’m not test a couple of these with a multi meeting and make sure I’m getting 12 volts out of these sockets, and then yeah, I’ll cut this wire and connect the green and a black and then we’ll be able to hook up the main board to it. So I have the power supply on. I have my really cheap. Harbor Freight! I think I got a free with purchase. Multimeter ground is ground so black is ground black wires on here, yellow wires or 12-volt red wires or five volts. So test it, there we go. We got 12 volts there over to this one, and we’re going to test the 5 volt rail and then. I got 5 volts. So yeah, yellow is what I saw. Snip one of these yellows, actually. I think I have a connector, but I’ll run the yellow and black over to the main board, and that’s what I’ll use for the Leds to the Leds. I have me 12 volts. So they’ll also be using the yellow wires, But you could use that 5 volt -. I don’t know, hook up some kind of charger thing. Charge your raspberry pot, not charge, but power your Raspberry Pi. Maybe we’ll see, but good looks like it’s working, So I have my MOSFET done. My connections are done to my power. My second power supply. I just electrical tape them to see if they work. I’m still going to put this into my cabinet, so I’ll make more permanent connections inside of those later on, but we can test and see how things go, so let’s put that there. The first thing I’m going to do is plug in the old stop power supply, the one that comes with the unit. Oh, that’s! I got a light coming on on the MOSFET, so I hope that’s good and then while you’re watching, I’m going to go around and turn on the second power supply. Hey, it came on blowers going. It’s a good sign printer already so hard to see with the glare, but came right on now. Let’s see if we can maybe get it to heat up. Groot and this guy. I need to move, lets. Go menu, click settings. We’ll, just do preheat. Pla, let’s see what happens. Hopefully there’s no smoke. Hey, so! I got the LED light to come on the bed now. I got a blue light going on. Ill offset and nothing’s on fire. So let’s go back to the main screen. Here you can see that my bed is going up as well as my nozzle. So they’re both working. Nothings on fire. I’m going to call that a success if this video was helpful to you at all, please like or subscribe. I appreciate it. If you want to make fun of my electrical skills, please feel free to do so in the comments.

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