Ainz Ooal Gown 3d Model | Overlord: The Staff Of Ainz Ooal Gown. 3d Print And Build!

Chris' 3D Print Shop

Subscribe Here





Overlord: The Staff Of Ainz Ooal Gown. 3d Print And Build!


Hello, everyone im. Chris, and welcome back to my shop. And today we’re making the staff of einzel go from the anime overlord! Now I absolutely love overlord ever since I read the first chapter of the Manga. And when I got into 3d printing, I knew that I absolutely had to make this prop one of the key things. The eagle eyed of you might notice is. I actually tried my best to keep the coloration of each of these orbs like as close to the anime as I could. However, when it comes to this one, I wasn’t too sure what to color it, and after reinspecting the model and the anime, I figured out that this actually has eight snake heads while the enemy actually has seven, so I got a little creative with all that out of the way. Let’s go ahead and head over to the computer, and I’ll show you how to make your very own, and you won’t even have to cast grade or make item to do it. Okay, guys, so first thing you want to do. Is you want to head over to cgtraderco’m? Go into the search bar and type in ions, and it should be the very first thing that pops up. This is going to be the model. We’re going to be printing out looking at the staff. In general, a lot of these pieces are already pre-sliced up and fairly easy for you to drop onto just about any machine all the way down to even an ender three. However, there’s one very important thing I really very much want to point out when printing out this specific model, and that’s the bowl for your staff now while some people might want to get a little creative. I really didn’t want to do that. I didn’t want to have to split this up into various different ways. So what I found is? I kind of got lucky, and I’ve got a cr-10 Max with a 450 by 450 build plate as this is actually 306 by 360. So unless you have a really really large print bed of 400 or more on your X and Y you’re gonna have a lot of issues printing this, and when it came to actual print time, all of these overhangs needed proper support And the only thing I did is. I blocked the inside of the mouths, but everything else absolutely got its support, which meant a whole lot of trees at zero percent and that sliced up to about eight days. So keep this in mind. If you’re going to be printing this thing all out in one shot, it’s going to take you over a week and that’s if you don’t fail, which I absolutely did several times after that came the kind of laborious task of assembling this entire thing. One thing I will absolutely warn you about Is you are going to have a lot of lines as you can probably tell where you’re just gonna have to weld this thing together, and you’re gonna have to do that through PLA welding And sadly, I didn’t catch any of that with footage. However, basically, all you want to do is take yourself a string of filament and a soldering iron. You can get yourself a 3d printing pen for like, 20 on Amazon. I’ll leave a link for that in the video description. And basically all you’re going to do is wherever you’ve got. The two parts of your print at youll. Go ahead and fill that in with as much molten material as you can to kind of build a little bit of a ridge, and then you’ll go ahead and sand that down and wherever there might be any kind of small divots or anything like that, you fill in with wood, filler or bondo, or just any kind of epoxy that’ll fill it in which you’ll then sand and paint over. Now I didn’t do the best of job as I’m still learning, but you gotta admit, especially from far away. You really can’t tell, and it’s still badass and when it comes to support while I won’t hold it by. It’s like thinnest side. I mean, this is a 100 PLA welding and it’s not going anywhere. Plus, it’s a magic caster staff. So it’s not like I’m going to be swinging this over anybody’s head after that, my favorite sanding priming [Music] and painting and honestly. I didn’t do that great job something. I definitely want to talk about in the sanding and priming stage of this is the more you look at your prop. Sometimes you’ll notice a lot more lines that’ll stick out more than others, and this is especially the case on this where, especially on the bowl of this staff. I’ve got a lot of drooping overhangs. That’s where something such as wood filler comes in stuff like this can absolutely be a lifesaver. Basically, what you want to do is get your hands on some plastic wood, wood, filler, bondo, or any other kind of filling agent and go ahead and fill in places where your filler primer weren’t exactly able to get now. I like to actually do my primer stage before I start doing any of my filler. Only because sometimes my primer can actually do most of the filling for me, and I just have to tackle like the main trouble-ish main trouble areas, but your results might actually do a little bit better. If you actually do a little bit of filler before priming, I’m just a little weird, and while it may look silly, it’s actually pretty simple. What you need to do with this. All you have to do is put on some gloves. Do as I say, you know, as I do. Smear it onto your finger and then wipe it onto your part. Yeah, it in this case. Kind of looks like I left a little. Uh, skid mark on my part. However, you just keep applying more and more layers until eventually you get what feels like a smooth surface and this will actually sand back, so you can actually bring it back to a very good, very high. Uh, sand grid that way. This is nice and smooth, and it’s even with the rest of your part. Then you just follow that up by sanding a little bit more. Do maybe one or two more coats of primer. And then you’re good for your final paint. Once you’re absolutely sure the entire thing is smooth and now back to smearing all over my prop, one of my chief worry areas is actually places like here where the supports didn’t, uh, properly take care of things, so all you want to do is just go ahead and squeeze a bit out. Wipe it off and apply to the trouble area. And once you’re finished wiping this all over your chin, Do it eight more times, and don’t be afraid to get a little bit creative with some of your old tools. You have laying around for some of those areas where you can’t really get your finger into. It’s hard for me to tell in my view screen. Just how well this is capturing out, but I guarantee editor. Chris is gonna have a fun job looking at all this. But if you look really close, you can see. There’s a lot of layer lines as after a while. I kind of just got lazy and I gave up on sanding this personally. I like the look of 3d printed stuff and so something like this kind of gives it character, but I absolutely understand for those that actually want a fully finished prop for you to sand this down until there’s no layer lines and it looks proper and more realistic, However, I’m honestly just a little too lazy for that, and so I left the layer lines. I think it had some character and this is already ripped from an anime. So as much as you want to try to make it look real. I mean, it’s a magic curly staff. I can’t even stand up by itself after a couple layers of sanding priming sanding priming and then eventually painting we’re here. And while I understand that my finishing job isn’t exactly the best in the world, I’m still pretty happy. The fact I can make this thing stand up by itself and one way or another. So you guys, that’s pretty much it. Um, I do apologize. I didn’t get a whole lot of footage of me actually working on this thing. But honestly, it was a whole bunch of having a whole lot of machines running at once to get this whole thing printed out in honestly under a week, but then afterwards, just a lot of putting it off on having several dome failures or several bowl failures rather and then finally getting up the urge to get this whole thing welded together and then sand it and then prime it and as you can tell from my sanding job. I really just skipped out on that, but still, I mean, this is a just amazing. Six foot staff. I’m absolutely in love with the finished product. I might go here and there and just kind of touch it up. Just sand a little bit here, and then, you know, paint a little bit there on some spots. I still think needs work as it doesn’t feel 100 true, but I mean, this is still one of the more amazing things I believe I’ve ever made, and I hope from here. It only gets better. Thanks, everyone for watching my video as always. I like to give a shout out to my two patrons. That’s Miguel and Max. You guys absolutely I. I love the fact that I’ve got people actually believing what I’m doing and are supporting me with their own dollars. It’s honestly it’s people like you that actually put forth that effort and that belief in me. That really helped me just kind of churn out stuff like this and make me believe that people actually want to see my work. If anybody else wants to really help out the channel, go ahead and head down into the description below where I’ll be leaving a link to my patreon. My my Etsy, you name it, Of course. All the normal links are down in there too. If you want to know where you get this file, go ahead and I’ll leave the link to that directly that way you can just simply click buy it and get started and, of course, go ahead and look at any of my other affiliate links. Just in case you want to purchase any of the printers? I used either camera. I’m using or anything else like that once again. Clicking any of those links helps out this channel a lot, but with all that out of the way. I just want to say thanks again for watching, and I’ll see you all in the next one, take care.

3d Printed Master Chief Helmet | 3d Printed Halo Helmet

Transcript: Hey, how's it going, guys? Just, uh, thought I would share with you. A project I've been working on. This is my master chief or your halo mark 6 helmet. And this was 3d printed on my ender threes. Uh, so I've got an Ender, Three and Ender, Three pro. And,...

read more