Hey, I’m Alec. And today and 3d printing troubleshooting guide. We’re going to talk about warping. I’d like to remind you that. If you enjoy the 3d printing troubleshooting guide series be sure to subscribe to the channel to stay up to date with all the other errors that. I’m going to troubleshoot in the future or if you missed the last episode. Please watch that here. Now let me go over warping, so warping is when you have a part that for the beginning of the print sticks to the bed. But as it progresses, it starts to peel away and then you just don’t have a flat bottom surface now, depending on the model. Maybe it’s something you’re gonna glue together, so it doesn’t really matter, But in most cases, it’s an imperfect print and it will just end up in the trash now. Some materials are more prone to this than others and we’ll need to take extra steps and that’s one cause another cause could just be that. Your bed isn’t level or your Z offset isn’t properly calibrated or even you just have a model. That’s just really thin, so if you’re printing something like a shark fin or like the fin of a rocket that could have a really thin base and just because of how much heat is being put into it just from the nozzle. So even if you’re printing PLA, which is normally not warp II. If you’re printing it in a very small, thin part, the heat of the part on it, that’s just keeping it warm constantly and is just adding more heat into it can just cause it to peel away, so there’s some extra steps that you can do there as well to help combat it, so we’ll get into the solutions here now. The first couple of solutions here will apply to all materials. Now, if you have a thin part like. I said the rocket fin or a shark fin, or something like that, that thin part will we’ll just have so much heat into it that it will want to warp away from the bed because of the stresses from the heat. So what you can do is you can add a brim to it to give it just more surface area to really stick it down or use a different adhesive and we’ll get into that in a more material specific matter. You’re also gonna want to make sure that your bed is level and you have the proper. Z offset. So if your Z offsets too far, there’s just not enough, squish to keep it adhered to the bed surface, so you want to move it a little bit lower on the flip side if your print is too low and it’s printing and causing the filament to flare out from the sides that can actually cause your first layer to warp just from it squeezing out into itself, so it’s pushing the previous pass up, which just reduces the layered. Haitian in the beginning, there’s a sweet spot where your Z offsets at just the right height were part sticking well enough, but it’s not picking up previous passes of extrusion. Now, if you’re printing with ABS or nylon. Specifically, those two are notoriously bad at warping they just because of the chemical nature of those two materials, they tend to warp a lot more where ABS will warp or split just from air currents. Nylon just tends to work. You don’t get a lot of layers separation when printing island, at least in my experience, but ABS is notoriously difficult to get printing, right, some machines can do it very well without any sort of troubleshooting, whereas others need a little bit of care to get them to work properly so with these materials be sure to use the proper adhesives, so with nylon. Pva, glue, stick and PVA glue stick on. Gerlach works exceptionally well. You just want to make sure you have a thin bit thin layer. You don’t need a ton because if you put too much on what can happen, Is it just like peels away from that? It just forms like a release from the bed and with abs, something like Aqua Net, hairspray or ABS glue. Whereas you melt some abs in acetone. That works really well. ABS sticks pretty well to Pei as well. So if, like, that’s the build service on the lulzbot mini -, you have that, it’ll stick pretty well to that. You can also use baby stepping to change the Z offset live while you’re printing, that’s something you can do on the old spot menu. -, that’s something you can do in a lot of machines, so you can really see. How well is it adhering to the bed? Is it too far or too close and change that while you’re printing? So instead of having to do it as the print is failing, cancel it change the Z offset. Try again, baby. Stepping while the print is live, works a lot better. It’s also pretty important to have an enclosure over your printer. Now there’s some aftermarket kits you can get for a lot of printers where you just put basically a big acrylic enclosure over the whole thing that keeps the heat in and any drafts out so in this room. It’s pretty cold right now. This is a terrible room to be printing abs in if you’re in Florida in the middle of summer, that’d be a pretty good time to print abs just out in the open and not really have any sort of issue. It is something that’s kind of dependent on weather, just because if it’s really hot, things will print pretty easily. If it’s very cold, it’s going to cool the filament too quickly. So having an enclosure helps take all that guesswork out, you can do with something as simple as a trash bag or like. I said get one of those kids to help. Keep the hot air in and keep all the drafty air outside. Now, if all that still presents issue where your parts are working away. Consider adding a brim. Now that’s something that I tend to avoid. I try to solve the issue before getting to a brim. But there are specifics and errors. Where no matter what I do. It just refuses to stick and adding a brim doesn’t hurt now. What that is is think of a top at the top hat has the top, and then there’s the flat side. That’s around your your crown, that’s! What a brim is it just gives you a larger base for your print to have as a surface air to help. Keep it on the bed well. Some people consider rafts a good alternative to brims for abs and nylon. It’s something. I personally like to avoid. I’d rather solve the issue somewhere else before getting to a raft raft is something that I hardly ever used, but for some people. It works really well and in that case. I’m not going to say, oh, stop using it, but try and look at what’s causing the issue in the first place because rafts are generally used when you have an unlevel build surface or you have some sort of poor adhesion to the original surface that you have on your printer. The other thing with rafts is that you don’t get that same sort of smooth or glassy bottom service that you could get with glass or with. Pei, you get sort of a rough texture from the basically having a bed of support that your part is being printed on. So if you don’t care about the bottom surface and you’re willing to put up with it, Rafts may be a good option, but if you’d rather counter the issue somewhere else and then solve it, consider just starting with the brim and then working your way down to solving the issue. Working is something that everybody that 3d prints is going to encounter so. I hope that the tips and tricks I provided in this video is gonna help you get past that issue, But if this specific issue isn’t the one you’re having, please feel free to check out our channel where we have a playlist with all the other different 3d printing troubleshooting guide videos that maybe answers the specific issue You’re having, if, however, that doesn’t solve your question, either, please don’t hesitate to reach out to our support line at support at Madder hackers, comm or give us a phone call where you’ll be able to talk to an actual person to help you troubleshoot whatever issue, having and stay tuned for other videos. We’re gonna put out about the different errors. You can encounter all 3d printing and troubleshoot those as well. I mount format hackers. Thanks for watching. Thanks for watching. If you like that, give us a thumbs up and be sure to subscribe to stay up-to-date with all the big builds, how-tos and troubleshooting guides. I’ll be working on and don’t forget, check out. Mater hackers comm to explore everything 3d printing and to join the community.