3d Printing First Layer Problems | 3d Printing First Layer Issues Troubleshooting Guide

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3d Printing First Layer Issues Troubleshooting Guide


We’re talking about first layer issues right here on the first layer. Hey, welcome to the show. My name’s Richard. Cleveland on today’s show were jumping into troubleshooting. Were gonna be doing a whole series of troubleshooting tips and tricks over the next month and we’re gonna start right where it all begins at the first layer. So you might be having issues getting your first layer to stick and we’re gonna cover all of that. So the first layer of the printer is probably the most important as we all know, because if you don’t get a good first layer, you don’t get a good print and it’s the foundation for everything that’s built upon it. So some of the issues that people might be having when it comes to 3d printing with the first layer. I got my notes here so I may be referring to them. Every once in a while, just bear with me, there are several things that we got to look at and let’s start with the first one, and that’s the nozzle being too close to the bed. Now there’s certain signs that the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the first sign is when you can see almost you’re. Your first outline is almost transparent. Then you know that your nozzle is too close to the bed. The other way that you can tell is if it is digging into any type of adhesion surface. You have like Pei or Buildtak. Those are all clear signs that your head is far too close to the bed. Another couple of signs that you want to look for is if when you’re tracing out the outline or doing the infill between the outline on your first layer if it lays down a line and then starts to pick up that line on the way back again, your your head is too close to the surface of the bed. Because what’s happening is it’s squishing out and it’s causing a little ridges on either side of the nozzle, it’s far too close in that case and what happenings when it starts to go back to lay down another line, it’s actually grabbing that plastic, so that’s another indication of your nozzle being too close to the bed when your filament starts to tear off, that’s another indication, and when your parts are too hard to remove from the bed, That is also an indication of your printhead being too close to the bed. Now, if your nozzle’s too close to bed, there’s not enough space between the nozzle and the bed to extrude proper amount of filament as we all know, so the excess filament is either, as I said, squished out on the side’s upwards between individual printed lines and isn’t extruded at at all, creating additional pressure in the hot end. Now, another sign of that is when you’re hearing a clicking, so if you’re hearing and clicking from your extruder motor, that means that the the nozzle is not far enough away to actually have the plastic come out on onto the bed, and it is now causing a back up inside and back up pressure inside the nozzle, which could lead to jams now. How do you fix all this? It’s actually, really, really simple. You want to adjust the distance of the bed? Either by tightening the four bed screws three or four bed screws, depending on which ones you have getting a little bit more space between the nozzle and the head and a good indication of how far your nozzle should be away from the head is if you’re using a post-i’t note now. I like to use a post-i’t note because it’s right about that proper thickness and the other thing is its. Got that little sticky on the back? This is kind of my pro tip for you is just put your finger on the sticky, and then it makes it nice and easy to slide in underneath that nozzle If the nozzle is too close, this is not going to go in between the nozzle and the bed. So what you’re gonna have to do is tighten down those screws and you’re gonna lower the bed and I’ve showed you guys how to bed level before, but I am going to illustrate it one more time and the way I’m gonna do that is by using a sticky note or actually using my whiteboard. I’ve got a whiteboard down here and we’ve got a crayon there or something that we can use on the whiteboard. We’ll get rid of this there. We go no wrong marker. The one’s right there on the table right by that black ring, right. You just had it right in your hand there. You go, right, No marker there. We go, okay. So how do you fix it? Let’s say this is your bed and I’m not the world’s greatest artist. You have your adjustment knobs, so what you want to do? Is you want to start at this corner? Then you’re going to go diagonally to that corner. Because whenever you adjust this corner, it is also adjusting the opposite corner to where it is by either going up or down. So if you’re tightening down the bed, this corner is naturally going to raise up, then you want to move down to the opposite white corner or front corner? Pardon me and then back up to that corner and what you’re hopefully going to get is just a little bit of drag on that piece of paper. You don’t want to feel it really tight? If it’s too tight, you’re gonna feel it. You just want a little bit of drag, so that way you can almost feel through your fingers. The drag that you’re going to get off of your post-i’t note? Now you’re gonna do this probably two times because every time you make slight adjustments, let me make sure that that’s an eye. You’re gonna make slight adjustments once you do that. Those slight adjustments are going to always change the corners so a couple of times, and then finally just test in the center and the reason you want to test in the center, so we’re going to go one. Two, three, four, and that’s the worst five. I’ve ever done, I’m doing it upside down. So you want to do that and when you test in the corner? If it’s too tight, it means you’ve got a bow in your bed. If it’s too loose, It means you have a cup in your bed now. If it’s too loose, you can, you can actually put a piece of tape underneath or just over the center of the bed now. If it’s bowed in the center, what you want to do Is you want to put tape all the way around a roll, just a line of painters tape or or any kind of tape that you might have masking tape. Just put a line all the way around your heated bed before you put your material back on, and that should satisfy your leveling issues, and that should get you right in that sweet spot for getting better adhesion on your bed now as you guys know, one of the other things. I do as I change my slicer A little bit. So this is also going to help you with the adhesion to your bed, so what? I’m going to do is if I’m at points. One millimeter. I want to make sure that I am extruding 200 percent, which is equal to point two millimeters. Okay, now if I am printing at points, two millimeters, I’m going to change my initial layer extrusion to one hundred and fifty percent, which is equal to three millimeters. Okay, making sense so far and if I’m at point three millimeters, I’m going to do 100 percent, which is equal to three millimeters. Now the reason I am doing this. This is on the initial extrusion height. Okay, so this is your initial extrusion height, so one millimeter 200% or 0.2 millimeters 0.1 millimeter? Pardon me will equal point two on your initial extrusion height, and that’s just the first layer. Now there’s also another thing. I want you to change, which is going to help you get better. Bett adhesion as well extrusion width. Now, if you’re using a point four nozzle, let me just see if I can do this a point four nozzle. Okay, that’s going to come out at point four as your extrusion with. If you’ve got your bed and your head at the proper distance, what I want you to do Is I want you to change that? To 105 percent, so on the initial layer extrusion width, which you can find in your settings, Both on Kira and unsimplified 3d you’re gonna change it to 105 percent. That’s going to give you just a little bit more. Squish on your line when you’re putting down your first layer. Okay, that’s going to help you get better adhesion. It’s going to give you a proper amount of overlap on your first layer whether using a raft or you’re just going straight down to the bed. That’s going to definitely help now. The third thing is speed people print far too fast. So I want you to lower your speed to 50% on the first layer. Okay, so I want you to do 100 or 50% speed on the first layer. Only you don’t have to. You can go back to your regular speed after that. Whether you’re printing in 40 50 60 millimeters per second. Always want your first layer to be half of that okay now. Those are a couple little pro tips for you. That’s what I use all the time I use it in my slicer with everything that I am doing. So it’s regardless of if I’m using the Ender 3 the Kree ality CR 10 Whether I’m using the LAN how D 9 or I’m using the Duplicator 6 There’s all the same so that you want to make sure that you are using those numbers to get the best first layer now. What if your print bed? Or what? If your nozzle is too far away from the print bed, what’s going to happen? Is you’re going to get a very, very thin line? It’s not going to stick to the bed. It’s just gonna drag around and if it does happen to catch the bed because the bed might be a little bit out of level, it’s going to drag, and it’s not going to do your outline very well, so if your nozzle is too far away from the bed, there’s not enough filament extruded to properly adhere to the bed. How do you fix that? Well, again! You want to go ahead and adjust the bed so that you are doing a proper bed level? If you happen to have a sensor, there are ways to do it with your sensor. You’re going to be using your? Z offset. That’s a little bit more than I want to go into today. But Z offset is a way to do that. If you’re using a bed leveling sensor. If you’re not, I don’t use bed leveling sensors on any of my printer’s right now, I don’t need to, because once you get used to doing. Auto bed or pardon me manual bed leveling, and you can get it right, and you know exactly what that drag should be. It is trial and error, and it’s gonna take some time, but once you master, it, you won’t need. Auto bed leveling at all. Trust me on this now. I’m going to want to go into. Whew, not sticking. Why is my stuff not sticking? And there’s two reasons one. Your nozzles too far to your nozzle is too close. If it’s too close, it’s gonna pull up and it’s gonna drag and cause holes in your print. If it’s if it’s too far away, of course, it’s not going to grab the bed and you’re your initial skirt or brim is not going to go down very well. If that’s what you’re using, so we’re going to talk about prints, not sticking to the bed in part two of our troubleshooting guide, but I want to do some specific tips. Here, printer tips so pressure Mark Two’s Mark 2’s mark three. The pressure pinda sensor is temperature sensitive and will give false readings if the probe is heated before the mesh mesh bed leveling. Raise your probe a good distance off the bed during the pre heat before mesh leveling at the beginning of a print for the Calla TC. Are 10 CR 10 S and the T-bolt Tornado, Both printers come with a fairly large bed and they’re not perfect. These beds, the larger the bed. The more inconsistency that you can have in it. So you definitely want to go and make sure that you’ve done that drag test with a piece of paper and make sure that your bed is leveled properly. Same thing goes for the tarantula and the Ultimaker don’t bother with bed Leveling assistant. Just run through it and do the rest manually. Okay, let’s talk a little bit about filament tips pla. Most people are printing with pla today. Pla likes to be squished. A little bit more, and that’s why. I’ve set up my over extrusion. If you will on the first layer to be a little bit more. Squish, it’s that more than any other filament and it gets great adhesion again. If you’re too close to the bed, you’re gonna see it. Ptg, usually prints better with a higher nozzle to the bed distance to avoid the nozzle, picking up filaments and getting stuck to the the nozzle. Especially when you’re printing on Pei beds. Now, TPU and flexible PLA will also adhere stronger. Then you might like if printed to close a Pei or specialist bed surface. Such as bill tack works great for printing with flexible filaments. So there you go, that is the first part of our talk on good bet adhesion and getting that first layer down. I hope you guys found that useful. We on the next one. We’re gonna talk about not sticking to the bed. There’s a few things that I want to cover a little bit more when it comes to that. Now if you are a subscriber to the show, thank you very much if you’re not subscribed yet, and you got something useful out of today’s show. Then please go ahead and subscribe and hit that little. Bell notification button. So that you get notified every time that we do a brand new episode. I want to thank my patreon for all their support of the show. Without you, we couldn’t do some of the stuff that we do, and if you’re not a patreon, and you’d like to show your support for the show, you can go to patreoncom/scishow and you special content comes to that Patreon page, so you’ll get a little bit more than what you get on the average show again. If you’re not into a monthly commitment, you can always just go ahead and buy me a coffee. If you felt you got something out of today’s show or one of our staff, which would be just Corna Ching franc awesome or Brian Baker? We all drink coffee around here and you can go to buy me a coffee. Calm / the first layer. Now we also want to thanks pool 3d for giving us the space that we use to bring you the show each and every week Spoole 3d printer write, print it with Spool 3d They’ve got everything you need from printers to accessories and all the filaments. You could possibly need so check them out today on their website at Spool 3d Ca now with that said, I want to remind you guys. If there’s anything that you want to send into the show to have me take a look at or present on the show for you, you can always send it to the address of the first layer. So 31 199 40th Street, southeast Calgary, Alberta, Canada, T2Z 4 m8 And we will take a look at that and we’ll show it on one of our upcoming episodes. If you want to send something in and if you want to get a hold of me personally, you can always drop me an email to Richard at the first layer, and if you’re a company and you’re looking to have some of your products shown on the show, you can reach me through that email address as well. That’s Richard at the first layer and I’ll be happy to discuss any types of products. You might want me to show on the show or answer your questions. So until next time, my friends please be good to one another and always remember that the first layer is always your foundation to a great print until next time. Have yourselves a great day.

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