Transcript:
Hey, I’m Alec. And today I’m gonna show you how to print outside your building [Music]! Depending on what you’re interested in your printer’s, build volume may be more than enough for what you need or not enough, And in the case of something like Dungeons & Dragons Mini’s, most 3d printers are gonna have the required build volume to able to print them. But something that’s still not that big like a stock for a Nerf blaster is still too big to fit on the pulse. So how are you gonna print things? If they can’t even fit within the build volume of your printer without some weird angle where it’s got to have a bunch of support because this might be able to fit on the pulse. But it’s just gonna complicate things. Well, what you can do is you can just cut the part and you can use other programs to put just rate cuts, different size cuts and different techniques to be able to put them back together accurately, but at the same time, be able to use up the most of your build space and be able to print outside that volume. [MUSIC] [Music] for me, I like to use Autodesk Netfabb because it gives me the freedom and flexibility to cut the parts in different ways, depending on what I might need, and it also has a bunch of other like mesh, repair things and things to really help repair meshes that just may not work because they were modeled poorly or imported from a different source like a video game where it’s not meant to be printed and NASA. I was really good for that, so that’s what I’m gonna be using today, Just because I know my way around it. There may be another software. That works better for you, but this is what I know. So that’s what we’ll go over. So at the most basic level within netfabb, you can do plain cuts, which means that you can decide. Where on X Y&z are you gonna cut the parts? So this specific Nerf stock? I it’s it’s 250 millimeters tall. My printer is 200 millimeters tall, So I just dragged the z-plane up until this was more than 50 millimeters and then just cut it. So this clean flat cut now is a little obvious, but it’s just for a Nerf gun. It’s not something that’s really under a lot of stress, but if I were gonna do something that needed to be strong. You may want to think about using a later method from this video because this is relying entirely on whatever adhesive you’re using to put it together, let’s say. I want to print a 300 millimeter tall fill, but my 3d printer only has a 200 millimeter build height. Well, here’s what you can do. You can take fill, raise the Z height on the plane and try to figure out where you want to cut it and the things you want to consider is. I could put the cut line in his face. Because that’s roughly 200 millimeters, so let’s just maximize one print and then do the rest and another print, but then I’m gonna have to deal with just a stripe across his face, and if I’m gonna mold and cast it or cover it next cc3d that won’t really matter. You don’t really see it. You can sand it away. It won’t be a problem. What if I’m just gonna print this glue together and call it done? Maybe you want to do the cut somewhere like his ankles. Where it’s a little less noticeable or depending on maybe of a different long one, you could put that seam in like a groove like a detail that goes across the Z anyways, because then you will notice it nearly as easily as if it were just right in the center of his face. So you want to take some considerations on if you intend to sand it maybe put it in a an easy spot to reach when you’re sanding or if you don’t intend to sand it, then at least put it somewhere that might not be as noticeable, depending on the surface area of the cut of your part. You may be able to add registration keys. What so something like this Nerf Blaster Stock didn’t have a lot of surface area to put these pins in. So I just had to rely on making sure that I just lined up as perfectly as they could. Whereas something like this, which is a cosplay part? You can see that there’s. These small rectangular cutouts here what’s done here is that there was a cut along the x-axis and then a rectangular prism was placed between the two halves and there was a boolean operation done, so you just selected this part and the rectangular prisms, and then you select. I want to remove these and make sure not to remove these and keep like what’s what’s created, but that all the other pieces stay there. After the fact you still have what was used to make it. Because then you can take those keys and print them out. Maybe at 99% scale, so there’s a little wiggle room, so you can fit them in here because otherwise it’s gonna be an exact fit, but then once you have them, you can place them into these registration holes and match them to this side. Put some superglue in here and then line these up and these will go together perfectly instead of trying to line these up and get these in the right spot and end up, which is a huge misalignment. And it’s stuck in super glue that way or you have to break it apart and try again, so registration keys work really. Well, when you have a large surface area to put them in, and then they just help make it a lot easier to put the parts back together now. These are some more advanced cuts that I seldom use. It really depends on your application as to whether or not you need it. So the first one is the polygon cut. It’s still part of the plane cut because you’re picking roughly where in one of the axes this plane is, but then what you can do is you can go through and just start clicking points to create a polygon, so I could go and click here here and just like, make a jagged face, So they like teeth together or I could just create something so that they they slot together. Now what you do want to consider when you’re making Those cuts is to not make overhangs that are really severe. So basically, you don’t want to make like jigsaw shapes. You just want to make a bunch of a there’s big or small mountains that just fit together. Otherwise there won’t be a way to put them together, and you’ll just have to printed pieces that just don’t fit so you just want to be able to use it to maybe hide a seam by following a groove in like a helmet. Just follow that groove up through it. Keep it hidden rather than just a straight line that goes mostly through the groove, but then through part of the helmet, so it’s really useful for trying to hide them and it’s really up to you As to how accurate can be. It can be just three straight lines and call it done or you can really zoom in and click each little teeny point. You need to be able to make this seam cut. After polygons, you have some more traditional joinery techniques that have their basis in woodworking like dovetails and you can make these in net very easily. You just decide how long and how tall each of the dovetails are. What’s the tolerance spacing on these, so maybe a pinch is really well calibrated and they can be really close and fit together really well, or it needs some work, and you need a bigger gap to make sure they still fit so you can play with these settings, depending on the calibration of your printer. Do you want these to be really tight? Where once they’re slid together, they’re not coming apart. They’re more or less permanent, just from the layer lines, kind of locking in with each other, or is it something that you want to be able to assemble needs a little force? But then you can still take it apart pretty easily. It just depends on what you’re doing now. I hope this video is enough to kind of give you an idea of how to take something like this giant submarine and print it on your walls bought mini – or on your upholstery printer Because there’s certainly many models that are just significantly bigger than what a 3d printer can actually print in one piece. Is there some joinery technique that? I didn’t mention here that you feel like I should have or that. You think other makers should know about? Please leave it in the comments down below Because I’d love to learn something new, and I’m sure other makers out there would love to know about it as well. I’m Alec from matter hackers. Thanks for watching. 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