Hello, and welcome to 3d printing. Canada’s hot and technical guide at 3d printing Canada. We sell a variety of printers with two major styles of hot end today. We’re going to take a look at and investigate what these hot ends are made of some different configurations and how to properly assemble them from their base parts. You may have heard of hot ends being either. Ptfe lines or all-metal? This is referring to the heat break of the hot end, which is the small thin tube that screws between the heatsink and the heat block. An all-metal hotend has a 1.75 millimeter hole machined in the heat break that goes down to meet the nozzle directly. A PTFE heat break will have a much larger hole designed to accommodate a PTFE tube. You can see in this shot that we have one all-metal heat break on the left and two. Ptfe type heat breaks on the right looking at the top of the heat breaks. The all-metal version does have a small area that can accept a bit of PTFE tube outside the melt zone for guiding filament in. You can also see here how the PTFE hot end tubes have the same large diameter hole all the way through one of the most popular and reliable hot end types is the E3D v6 style hot end here. We have a version with an all-metal heat break and a zero point four millimeter nozzle. Let’s take a look at how to properly assemble this start by screwing your nozzle into the bottom of the heater block. You can identify the bottom by observing the screw protruding out that is used to clamp the heater core while it is possible to screw the nozzle in until it touches the bottom of the heap block. This is not the approach we want to take. Turn the nozzle out until you see about half a millimeter of space between the nozzle and the bottom of the heat block. This will allow some room to tighten the nozzle against the bottom of the heat break, creating a superior seal against filament leaking Now when we finally go to tighten the nozzle on, we’ll have a nice tight seal against the bottom of that heat break as we discussed before the E3D v6 style all-metal heat brakes have a small cavity on the top that will accept a Bowden tube as a filament guide. Now let’s take a look at the PTFE version of the E3D v6 hotend assembly. The assembly procedure will mirror the one that we just did on our all-metal version. Screw the nozzle in until you’d have a better half millimeter space between the bottom of the block and the top of the nozzle. And then screw your heat break in. You should notice now in this version when we look in the top of the heat break, you can see all the way down to the top of the nozzle. This means that when we put our. Ptfe in the PTFE has to directly touch the top of the nozzle in order to get a good seal. After assembling the hot end, we need to screw our assembly into the heatsink. The heatsink on a Bowden system provides two functions. First it draws heat away from the melt zone and cools it. The second function of the heatsink is to support a pneumatic fitting that will allow us to put pressure on the PTFE and get a good seal with the nozzle. Start by screwing on the heatsink until you feel it physically stop. There’s no need to over tighten this. Because if you do, you’ll never get it out next. We’re going to screw our pneumatic fitting on the top of the heatsink just like with our nozzle. It is possible to screw the pneumatic fitting on until it physically stops. If we keep it here, we can’t tighten the PTFE against the top of the nozzle. Though so, what we want to do is take the pneumatic fitting and unscrew it about halfway. Now we can take our PTFE and insert it. The nature of the pneumatic fitting is that it will let the PTFE go in one way, but won’t let it go out the other way. Press down until you’re sure the PTFE is touching the top of that nozzle. Once that requirement is satisfied now you can take your fingers or a wrench and wrench down the pneumatic fitting. You should feel a bit of resistance. That’s the pneumatic fitting, biting into the PTFE tube and making a good seal. The last step in this process comes after your hot and assembly is mounted on the printer and heated. Take your socket wrench and very carefully. Tighten the nozzle. Don’t over, tighten as it is possible to break the head of the nozzle clean off now that we have looked at e3 D let’s take a look at Cree, Ala. T’s standard hot end. It has the same basic parts as the e3d hotend pneumatic fitting, heat sink, heat break nozzle and heat block the procedure to assemble this hot end is about the same as the E3D v6 we’re going to put our nozzle on. Make sure that you don’t tighten it all the way to the heat break. Leave about half a millimeter from the bottom next. We’re going to take our heat break and screw it in to meet the top of the nozzle. Make sure to double-check that you have that half millimeter space Still there. The threads of the heat break should be about flush with the top of the heap block, just like the e3d. Ptfe models. You can see that we can see all the way down to the nozzle. If we look down the PTFE hole. The kree allottee heat sink is not threaded. All you do is slide it in and then tighten it with an Allen key, Just like pretty much everything with hot ends. Make sure you don’t over tighten now. We can screw our pneumatic fitting in from the top, just like on the e3d heat sink on the kree ality heat sinks. We don’t want to screw the pneumatic fitting until you can’t screw it in any more leave about half the threads available to tighten down the PTFE tube, insert the PTFE tube in and press it down until you can’t anymore. Now, you can tighten your pneumatic fitting if you ever have to remove your. Bowden tube, you will notice. The pneumatic fitting does scar the side of the tube as it clamps down. This is normal and the sign of a good seal when reinstalling it’s a good idea to snip about one millimeter off the bottom of the Bowden tube to give the fitting a fresh piece of plastic to bite into from everyone at 3d printing Canada. We hope you enjoyed this guide.