3d Printed Video Game Weapons | Making The Valorant Kingdom Pistol – 3d Printing N’stuff


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Making The Valorant Kingdom Pistol - 3d Printing N’stuff


[MUSIC] Hello there and welcome back to yet another video build this time around. I’m doing a little bit of everything. Starting with some 3d modeling infusion all the way to the finished painted prop. And as for what I’m making, it’s the classic pistol with the kingdom skin from the game Valorant. I really hope you. [MUSIC] enjoy [Music] So it’s been a while, at least since I made some kind of a pistol or some kind of a weapon from a video game. I do believe the last one I did. Is the sunshot from the destiny games? And that’s gotta be more than a year ago now. And I guess I’ve kind of been waiting for something like this because that was one of my favorite prop builds. And as soon as I saw my son playing this Valerant game, I just knew I had to make something from it now. There’s a lot to choose from, but the ones I really love are the ones with the kingdom skin, especially the spectra. But since I’m doing all the modeling myself on this one, I thought it better to start with a smaller piece and that’s the classic pistol with the kingdom skin. Of course, it kind of gives me the same look and feel as from the designs you find in the movie oblivion. You know, the one with Tom Cruise So first? The classic pistol. Then the spectra. I got some good reference Pictures from the In-game menu, and from there I could start modeling it up in fusion 360. I still consider myself learning the basics in fusion so rather than telling you how and what to do, I’ll rather tell you why I molded and split the parts. The way I did. Of course I’m always thinking about how it would be best to 3d print the parts, but also how to make them easier and less time consuming to paint in the end, less masking tape that is, which isn’t fun, simply put. The main body is split in half as you usually would for an easy straight up FDM printer, right, but then I’ve separated all the smaller parts, so you can either print them separately on the resin printer or just with better settings and slower speeds on an ftm this way you can sand prime and paint the parts separately, which actually saves a lot of time, but the most important thing when you put it all together in the end, you get those super crisp, clean lines. It almost looks like it’s been mechanically assembled, which even gives you the option to not do any weathering because there shouldn’t be any crimes to hide. Right, right, the first prints they came out looking really great, and I know this is nothing new, but I still find it so insanely cool that you can design whatever you want in fusion and a few hours later. You got the physical object in your hand. I so wish I had this stuff. When I was growing up, the two main parts were printed in PLA at point 12 millimeter layer height. And as I mentioned, I cut away a great deal of the details This way. I can easily glue them together with some five minute Epoxy. I guess you can use some ca or super glue, but I really like the extra few minutes. You get to line them up perfectly before clamping them tight together Once the glue is fully cured. I’m only left with the seam lines around the edges to sand down smooth and both the sides are quickly sanded down too because of the different heights of the big flat surfaces without all the time consuming hard to get to details. Those would come in play later. [MUSIC] with the main parts fully assembled and sanded. It was time for some gray filler primer. I love this part of any build. It sort of brings it home for me. When you can see the whole prop piece more uniformed. It also reveals a couple of spots and places that need some more spot putty and, of course, the last round of sanding before I was satisfied to move on to the next step now. It was time to prepare the rest of the details. They were printed in resin and whenever it’s doable, I like to place the parts directly on the build plate. No need for supports. It means no trimming or sanding is needed. I simply stuck them on top of a needle head and they were ready for being painted and as not to put it off to the very end. I decided I wanted a nice display. Stand for this prop piece. So I went about it by doing some rough sketches just to try and narrow down the look. I wanted, and, of course to try and keep it in the same style and feel as the rest of the prop. Once I chose the final design, I moved on to fusion again. It was a simple shape and I felt it was in the same visual universe as the rest. [MUSIC] I glued it down to a piece of wood and with everything fully sanded and primed. It was really starting to look like something, and then it was time for some airbrushing. I’m pretty anal with just about everything in my shop. Even though I clean my airbrush after every use, I also like to give it a quick repeat before the first paint again, but obviously I can be a bit lazy when it comes to shaking the paint bottles and hence the ketchup effect. So from now on, I’m using my scroll saw on the other table as a paint shaker hack [Applause]. I know it looks weird, but it’s quick, and it really does the job, especially for paint bottles That have been sitting for a while, And then I could finally get on with putting down the white base coat. [MUSIC] And then following up the base coat with some bright yellow and just to get that extra intensity in the color. I give it a final top coat of some translucent yellow candy ink, the top of the barrel. I kept in a brilliant, glossy white paint. While some of the details on the hilt were given a darker gray undertone. And then using my vinyl cutter, I designed some stencils to mask off some of the details that would be on the hilt and using some masking tape and some liquid masking. I could easily mask off the rest of the details. Maybe a bit excessive, But I just didn’t want that to be in the overspray. [MUSIC] [Music] and as you can tell the base coat has a semi-glossy finish to it, which in this case isn’t what I’m looking for? I chose this flat black paint for the top coats, and I’ve used this particular paint many times before now, and I just love it. It gives me the feeling of a flat matte cast heavy iron look, feel to me so other than just throwing those words together. I’m not quite sure how to explain it, but I hope you can see what I mean from. These close-up shots looks pretty awesome to seal all the different paint layers. I used the ultra matte varnish from Mig and for the smaller details, including the top barrel. I used all Clad’s Aqua gloss. That’s another one of my favorites earlier. I told you I just stuck the smaller parts on the needle head before applying the paint. I know people have a lot of ways of doing this, and I really mean a lot the way I like it is I use a soft model eraser. You know the kind you use. When drawing with charcoal, it gets soft when handled and it quickly hardens again when left to set, it gives excellent adhesion to all kinds of material and it comes off easy again without leaving any kind of residue or grease, which isn’t always the case with the commonly used sticky tack or tacky stick, and now, with all the parts painted, varnished and fully cured. It was time for some assembly using some super glue. I took my time and lining up the parts, just right. This was a really satisfying part to the build, putting it all together and seeing how clean and crisp the lines turned out. [MUSIC] For some of the pieces to get the things perfectly symmetrical on each side, but just to line them up correctly, it’s always a good idea to use a masking tape as a guideline. [MUSIC] It was almost complete now. I just had to make some more stencils on my vinyl cutter, a bit of masking, so I don’t get any overspray on the final bit of airbrushing and once completely cured, it was time to unwrap the proper final time. [MUSIC] The display stand got treated with some Eva foam on the bottom. And I do believe that was the final bit of work. I did on this property. [MUSIC] can’t be waiting for you in the morning. Ima leave without giving a warning. [MUSIC] And that was it for this video built. I really hope you liked it, and maybe even got a tip or two. Make sure to subscribe and hit that bell and I will try and share my next video build with you. Thank you for watching.

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